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Day 4

On our way to the floe edge this morning, we spotted polar bear tracks and stopped to scan the horizon with our binoculars. The print-maker was far off but we snapped shots until he ambled away.

The sun shone and the water was alive! Tom and Mike hauled out paddles, survival suits, drysuits, snorkels, masks – everything we needed to get up close and personal with whales, narwhals and seals.

We took turns stuffing one another’s heads, hands and feet through the rubber openings of the dry suits and laughed ourselves silly.

My best moment came when two enormous, brownish-grey narwhals surfaced on either side of my kayak. I raised my paddle and laid it across the gunwales, while my heart tried to beat its way out of my chest.

That night, too pumped to go to bed, we headed out with Mike and Tom to hike our neighborhood icebergs where we leapt like ballet dancers off icy outcrops. I didn’t think I’d ever want to sleep…

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