How did two ‘vegetarianos’ land up in a beef-eaters paradise?
Today we booked ourselves for a day excursion to the Pampas. A “must do” on our list, we visited the San Antonio De Areco Estancia, a Gaucho Sanctuary and a working ranch. Our drive to the Ranch was through the panoramic grasslands with fenced farms, fields of maize, wheat and soy. We passed several Platanos, Sycamores and Jacaranda, the guide throughout explaining how several of these species had been imported world wide by the Spaniards for the city’s beautification. This explained our initial fascination with the trees of this city. We were briefed on the indigenous tribes and how they developed into skilled horsemen, hence the Gauchos. Approaching the Pampas, the 360° view of the horizon was most breathtaking.
The Gauchos dressed in their ‘Bombachas de campo’- (baggy cotton trousers) and berets, eagerly welcomed us. Their hospitality was experienced with some fresh home cooked Empanadas and some chilled white wine. Before long, some of us were saddled on the horses while others toured the ranch. We got various views of the ranch, from grazing cattle to rodeo-style shooing by the Gauchos. I wasn’t sure if my horse had a bit of a heavy lunch , or it was me making excuses for being over weight but I tried everything form the thump of my feet to mimicking the gauchos with some mouth sounds, but to no effect – I still could not keep pace with them.
The feast began when luncheon was served on long trestle tables. Hot steaks and other prime beef cuts, prepared in the traditional Asado style (barbequed) were served by the Gauchos themselves. From Chorizos, blood sausages and tenderloin- it was a true meat lovers dream! That obvious look on every ones face as if saying aloud “How did 2 vegetarianos land up in the largest meat eating country? What a waste!”
It did come as a surprise to me that the population of Argentina eats more meat per capita than the inhabitants of any other country. Or 50kgs of beef were actually consumed on an average per person annually in this country. However, the gauchos were nice enough to make a quick preparation of some veggie Omelet’s and a delicious spread of fresh salads.
Lunch was a good opportunity to mingle with several travelers. The most common discussion being, ‘our itinerary’. Each of us was inquisitive to know what we had missed out on. Nanita and I had extended conversations with an elderly Indian man, who turned out to be a famous geologist from Canada and being a globe- trotter, he gave us several recommendation for future travel.
Cow boy hats and Gaucho style Entertainment
We enjoyed some time honored traditions of Gaucho Folklore over some Vino. It was Baby Oliver, a Cuban baby’s drools and smiles that made my day.
We were shortly invited to the neighborhood field to witness the display of the Gauchos fabled Equestrian skills. We experienced short racing, games like horse back musical chairs and several other stunts. Some of the women in the audience were given a kiss from the Gaucho along with a souvenir ‘silver ring’ that he plucked from a suspended string as he galloped past it. The sight of a horse and Gaucho, spooning each other made us feel like we were on the sets of Clint Eastwood’s “Horse Whisperer.” The years of bonding between the two and the innate trust in the Gaucho was so refreshing to witness and so contrary to the general distrust and suspicion one typically associated with urban life.
We left the Estancia with at least 500 pictures and almost in a trance. Feeling beat after a long eventful day, Nanita and I retired at a café by our hotel. The two Mumbaiites in their cowboy hats had truly witnessed an authentic Gaucho experience.
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
1 day ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.