We arrived in Lima at 11 pm. We were met by Boris, a young surfer with shaggy blond hair who whisked us to our hotel in his Subaru wagon. Our first glimpse of Peru around the airport was grim and industrial, devoid of trees with concrete flat-roofed structures and modular housing. The scenery improved as we drove through an area lined with casinos with names like 'New York.' We arrived at the Hotel Carmel in the more prosperous Miraflores district after passing a private golf club and stylish contemporary homes. It was a quick stay; we left at 6:45 the next morning for the airport to fly to Cusco.