Genovesa is one of the northern most islands and consists of two parts. The first part is essentially a large caldera approximately 1 1/2 miles in diameter. The outer wall has collapsed, allowing sea water to fill the caldera, creating a large sheltered bay. The remaining walls of the caldera rise high above the water and join the second part of the island which is a relatively flat area of lava rock, broken up by large cracks created by the walls of the caldera which over thousands of years have been slowly falling into the crater.
Our pangas ferried us to the beach in Darwin's Bay for a walk and snorkel. The highlight of the hike included a chance to see the Red-footed Boobie. Boobies were everywhere, perched in the mangroves that surrounded the beach. Some sat on eggs while others fed their fuzzy white chicks. These boobies nest off the ground in contrast to the Blue-footed Boobies we would see in the days to come. Numerous Frigate birds were also present. They like to steal nesting material and food from the Boobies. The whole area had the appearance of a kind of Eden, teaming with life. A small inlet of water was home tonumerous small rays. Lava Gulls were perched on rocks, apparently oblivious to our presence.
After lunch, our pangas took us to Prince William's Steps, a narrow stair case carved into the caldera wall which leads up to the flat top of the island. We had a chance to view the only fur seals of our trip whichlike to rest on their sides in the water with one of their flippers pointing upwards. A Hammerhead shark and a large ray swam by.
The high plateau of the island is the preferred nesting spot for Nazca Boobies and Frigate birds. The opposite side of the island gives a panoramic view of the open ocean. Thousands of Storm Petrels raced through the sky over their nests. We tried to spot some of the owls that feed on them but were unsuccessful.
After returning to the ship, we left the sheltered water of the caldera and headed for Fernandina. The seasons at this latitude begin to change in August and the open ocean gets quite rough. Over half the guests were unable to eat dinner. Transderm Scopolamine really helped my son. I tried to eat dinner but the smell of garlic shrimp was too much. Poor Luis!
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
2 days ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.