A few of the 3,000 kinds of potatoes
Author
Carol Thuerbach
To be in this predominantly Catholic country during Easter week proves to be an unexpected delight. We join the throngs to watch the big parade in the central plaza. Vendors are selling palms …
tropical blossom, related to banana trees
Author
Stuart White
We awoke to sunrise over Bartolome and soon were hiking the boardwalk across its barren landscape. Vegetation is sparse, mostly the scraggly gray Tiquilia scattered thinly over brown volcanic …
Cusco
Author
Carol Thuerbach
Even at the departure gate for the Cusco flight, we know this will be a very different trip. It looks like a gathering of the United Nations with people and languages from all over the world. We …
Author
Elizabeth Conway
Combined with the help of local Peruvian legend and local residents, Yale lecturer, Hiram Bingham,
formidable tree bark
Author
Stuart White
Having crossed the equator twice in the night (first, northbound, then southbound toward Fernandina) we piled into the Zodiaks right after breakfast. We were greeted by a welcoming committee that …
Monasterio Hotel, Cusco
Author
Carol Thuerbach
With just our carry-on suitcases and small backpacks, we are ready for our 17-day Peruvian adventure to begin!
Snail kite on our night canoe trip
Author
Stuart White
After an opulent breakfast we Zodiaked along the shore of Rabida island, where we (nearly) rubbed elbows with blue-footed boobies, brown noddies, a striated heron and fur sea lions for an hour or so. …
cacao fruit in the Amazon jungle
Author
Stuart White
A morning of varied transportation. We took a cab ride to the north end of Santa Cruz, a ferry across the strait to Baltra, a bus to the airport. We met up with our guide and fellow cruisers, then …
smoothe billed ani in silhouette
Author
Stuart White
I continued my practice of getting up before dawn, this time to go for a run. I had known that on this trip my running opportunities would be limited, but today we were on our own with no scheduled …
the jungle from Sachas observation tower
Author
Stuart White
Our hiking companions needed to leave early to make their flight from Baltra so we left Isabela in a speed boat at 6:45. It was a remarkably bumpy 90-minute ride; a few times we smacked the water …
Our private jungle balcony
Author
Stuart White
Our van driver had to bob and weave all over the heavily rutted road that took us 3,000 feet up into the highlands to the trailhead for the Sierra Negra volcano. We hiked for a mile or so as the …
Down the Napo R. to Sacha Lodge
Author
Stuart White
We rose at dawn for a quick return visit to the Darwin Station and a glimpse of Lonesome George. This time he was snoozing at the back of his compound. A two-hour small boat ride took us to …
Quito botanical garden
Author
Stuart White
A visit to the Charles Darwin Research Station was first on our agenda. We looked in on the tortoise nursery and were introduced to ''Super Diego'' a male of the Santa Cruz tortoise species that had …
at the Quito botanical garden
Author
Stuart White
After breakfast we transferred to Santa Cruz via a three hour ride in a small boat. We stopped briefly off shore from Santa Fe island to admire the Opuntia forest. We had lunch at a restaurant …
Garden and basilica
Author
Stuart White
Not about to waste any daylight, I got up just before sunrise for a little pre-breakfast scouting on the waterfront. A couple of ruddy turnstones foraged among the sleeping sea lions. A great blue …
approaching the basilica
Author
Stuart White
Our plane was a little late boarding in Quito so we had a chance to start getting to know the other three couples who would be our companions on the Hike Galapagos tour, and Andres, our guide, who …
seafood salad at Mia Culpa
Author
Stuart White
We heard heavy rain in the night and awoke to continued rain. As we departed we were issued ponchos for the lake and river legs. Halfway back to Coca we left the rain and stopped to pick up about …
Helen enjoys Mia Culpa Restaurant
Author
Stuart White
After another early wake-up and breakfast we canoed and hiked to Sacha's other above-the-canopy lookout, this one built like a tree house 150 feet up in a 700-year-old kapok tree. In an …
Helen on Panecillo
Author
Stuart White
A full day in the Amazon means we use every last ray of daylight. Because we're so close to the equator the sun comes up at 6 a.m. (plus or minus a couple of minutes) and sets at 6 p.m. Today we …
Statue of Our Lady on Panecillo
Author
Stuart White
After breakfast at the hotel, and with the assistance of staff from the hotel, Adventure Life, and Sacha Lodge, we made the quick flight to Coca, where we had lunch in the Lodge office while staff …