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Antarctica 2008

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December 10, 2008
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Ushuaia, Argentina 54 48 South 68 17 West

Ushuaia, Argentina

After the breakfast at TangoB&B, packed my luggage and went down to town. Found Suzana’s shop, couldn’t believe that I will be back in Ushuaia again, after my 1991 South American tour. She was so pleased that I still remember her; told her about my sister and the coffee cup I bought last time; she didn’t have the same one, so I bought a different one; Suzana gave me a present, a key chain, and a piece of paper with Argentinean flag and a local plant.
Check into Los Acebos Hotel above the city. Fantastic view from the hotel room. Since I came before my ship roommates, the concierge, on her discretion, gave me a room on my own. Took a nap and a shower. Watch some sports on TV, about Gabriela Sabatini; seems she is still everywhere even these days! Meeting at the hotel lobby at 6:30PM with all passengers, nothing special, just short briefing about what and when to do to be prepared for embarkation. Back to the town. Dinner at La Casa de los Mariscos restaurant, Av. San Martin 232.

December 11, 2008
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Ushuaia 54 48 South 68 17 West

Ushuaia, Argentina

Ushuaia 54º48’ S 68º17’ W

After breakfast, packed and left baggage at the reception and headed to town with James and Frank. Coffee and long conversation with James. After the lunch at the Tante Nina restaurant, Godoy 15 across from the street the Port of Ushuaia; fantastic view of the Beagle Channel. Went to the port and wait for the bus transfer to the Ocean Nova ship. The most ridiculous and shortest trip by bus ever, 50 m here and 50m there through custom and baggage check, like at the airport, back to the bus and ride to the ship!?
Welcomed by the expedition staff at the entrance. Embarkation at 4PM. Left passport at the reception with Jill and to the room #320 with Allan and Steve. Around 5PM start a sail.
Welcome reception at the Promenade desk, captain’s Alexy champagne toast. Lots of bubbly as Jan would say.
Very nice welcome dinner.
Still in the Beagle channel by 11PM when argentine pilot captain left the ship, and we slowly entering the Drake passage. Start moving in the bed, up and down, but tired not to pay attention.

December 12, 2008
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At Sea, the Drake Passage 57 08 South 64 44 West

Drake Passage

Skipped the lectures after the breakfast as well as after the lunch. Wanted to throw the flower in the Ocean for my father’s 18th passing anniversary as I usually do from the Santa Monica Pier, but couldn’t move. Time spent in bed trying to escape every single motion. Made a mistake, had a dinner and before reaching the room throw-up (a little bit at the 4th deck, and with Jill’s help called the cleaning crew to wipe the mess). More throw-up at the room; called Dr Maureen and asked for a half dose shot. Slept for the next 12 hours.

December 13, 2008
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At Sea, the Drake Passage 61 08 South 61 07 West

Drake Passage

At Sea, the Drake Passage 61º08’ S 61º07’ W
Barrientos/Aitcho Island 62º24’ S 59º475’ W

The ice cliffs mountains of the South Shetland Islands represent most visitors’ first glimpse of Antarctica. Separated from the Antarctic Peninsula by the Bransfield Strait, this 540 kilometer long string of eleven main islands and many smaller rocks lie northeast-to southwest across the southern end of the Drake Passage. The Shetlands are a great contrast to many visitors black-and-white notions of how Antarctica might appear. This is warmest, wettest, and most colorful part of the continent. The species diversity is enormous. Historically, this region was the focus of extensive sealing operations in the 1820’s.

Skipped breakfast and lunch, still in bed. Later on, felt much better; attended a kayak briefing in the Library. Got all equipment by Dan and Andy. After the dinner - like a new! Feeling great. Already by the South Shetland Islands, through English Strait. Boat landing and extended walk at Barrientos /Aitcho Island.

First encounter with the penguins – they have right off. Saw a king penguin, very rare situation for this part of Antarctica. Poor guy, trying to make connections with others but no success. Later on the ship saw the video that one of the passengers took at the previous tour about this penguin following the gentoo one and trying to mate! Walked to the other side of island to see sea lions – all at sleep. Walk through the creek of fresh water and empty egg shells. Newly born penguins under the parents looking for food. One penguin playing with the stick, while the others are stilling the stones from the others trying to (re)build their own nests.
Dr Maureen’s birthday, great ice-cream cake for all after dinner.

December 14, 2008
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Half Moon Island, Deception Island

South Shetland Islands, Antarctica

Half Moon Island 62º36’ S 59º36’ W
Livingston Island 62º37’ S 59º55’ W

Deception Island
Neptune’s Bellows 62º59’ S 60º34’ W
Whaler’s Bay 62º56’ S 60º40’ W

Half Moon Island lies in the entrance to Moon Bay, between Livingston and Greenwich Islands. The 2km (1.2 mi) long island is crescent-shaped and hope to approximately 3,300 breeding pairs of chinstrap penguins. Antarctic terns, skuas, kelp gulls, Wilson’s storm-petrels and blue-eyed shags also breed at this site. Fur seals are often present on the beaches, along with the occasional Weddell or elephant seal. The Argentine Camara Station is located on the southwest side of the island.

Deception Island is the largest of three recently active volcanic centers in the South Shetlands. It is ring-shaped and 9 miles in diameter, enclosing the large harbor of Port Foster. Port Foster is also the caldera of the ancient volcano. To enter the caldera, our Captain will take the M/V Ocean Nova in the narrow entrance referred to as Neptune’s Bellows. Inside is Whaler’s Bay, which was named by the French explorer Charcot because of the heavy use by whalers at the turn of the 20th century. The rusting boilers and dilapidated buildings date from the shore-based whaling operations that began there in 1920. Deception’s rim has an average height of 984 feet (300 m), with the highest point at Mt. Pond (1,798’). The most recent eruptions there were in 1970, 1969, 1967 and 1956.

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After the breakfast landing at Half Moon Bay and first kayak around the bay. The wind was strong and there was a fear should we kayak or not? All of us thought that these are normal conditions! Later on, stronger wind, we had to return by zodiac to the ship. Spotted macaroni penguin. Early in the morning, skiers were on Livingston island.

Walk around the Deception Island; while most of the group went to climb I went to the other side around the rusting boilers and empty research station houses. Polar bear plunge in – freaking cold, but never felt better after blood rushed into my brain. No sign of any steam or warm spots!? Doubt that any exists except if one has to dig a hole on the ground. Sumpor smell (rotten eggs).

December 15, 2008
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Antarctic Peninsula

South Shetland Islands, Antarctica

Antarctic Peninsula
Gerlache Strait
Spigot Peak (continent landing) 64º39’ S 62º34’ W

Danco Island 64º44’ S 62º37’ W

Errera Channel

Paradise Bay/Almirante Brown (continent landing) 64º54’ S 62º52’ W

Lemaire Channel 65º04’ S 63º57’ W

Neko Harbour

Danco Island is a one-mile long island which lies in the southern part of the Errera Channel, off the west coast of Graham Land. Danco Island was first charted by Gerlache and is named for the geophysicist who died during the Belgica expedition of 1897-9. Gentoo penguins breed here. Snowy sheathbills, kelp gulls and blue-eyed shags may often be seen as well.

Andvord Bay is a 15 mile-long fjord that cuts east into the Antarctic Peninsula. The average width of the peninsula at this point is 30 miles; the Weddell Sea is just over the mountains. This site is named for the floating whale factory ship Neko, which operated in the South Shetlands and Antarctic Peninsula from 1911 to 1924, and often used this bay. There is an unmanned Argentine refuge on the site. In Neko Harbor, listen and watch for the sounds and sights of active tidewater & alpine glaciers that surround the bay. We will be offering a walk up to a view point on an ice dome over looking the glaciers of Neko Harbor. This is another landing on the continent of Antarctica.

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Early wake up call at 5AM, landing at Spigot Island, watched for an avalanche; many penguins on the way. After the breakfast, kayak around the island; real icebergs around the kayak and penguins jumping in the water.

After the lunch, instead at Neko island (too much ice) went to Paradise Bay, where Chilean base is, but no visit to them (too complicated, many political issues!?).
Zodiac cruise for an hour. Another kayaking.

December 16, 2008
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Most southerly point 65 15 South 64 15 West

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

Penola Strait

Peterman Island 65º10’ S 64º10’ W

Vernadsky Station (most southerly point) 65º15’ S 64º15’ W

Argentine Island 65º15’ S 64º16’ W
Camping

Yalour Island and Vernadsky Station

The Yalour Islands are a 1.5 mile long group of low lying islands in the South part of the Wilhlem Archipelago. The islands were discovered and named by Charcot’s French Antarctic expedition. Lt. Yalour was an officer on the Argentine ship Uruguay, which rescued member of the Swedish Antarctic expedition in November 1903. Nesting Adelie penguins and Skuas are known breeders here.

The Ukraine’s Akademik Vernadsky Station is located on Galindez island within the Argentine Islands. It was purchased from the British for a nominal price of one pound in 1996, as it was cheaper for them to sell the station that remove the buildings. As a British hut, Faraday base or Station F, was occupied continuously for 49 years between 1947 and 1996. Research conducted from this site focused on geophysics, meteorology and ionospherics. This is also where scientists first observed depletion in the ozone layer, known as the ozone hole. The Ukrainian scientists at Vernadsky are continuing this ozone research in addition to studies focusing on geomagnetism, meteorology and glaciology.

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Landing at Peterman island; saw adelie penguins, gentoo penguins, Weddell seals on the ice bergs, great formations of ice bergs.
After the lunch campers meetings, gear delivered.
Visit to Vernadsky Station and famous vodka bar; bought a drinks for the crew ($3 each, someone mentioned before like $1). Like in a real English pub, but no beer. Yulia, Boris and James had a blast with Ukraine’s staff. Boris and Alexy stayed overnight at the base (sauna and plunge at the ocean).
After the dinner landing at the Argentine Island, making a tent; went for a walk; real and dense snowing all night; went to sleeping bag after 12:30AM; sounds of snow flakes dropping at the tent. Fantastic feeling. Had a hard time falling asleep, just wanted to enjoy the vastness, and solitudes, space and time!
Wake up call at 5:50AM, down with the camp and back to the ship. Zodiac ride at 5:30AM.

December 17, 2008
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Kayaking through Peltier Channel to Port Lockroy

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

Lemaire Channel 65º04’ S 63º57’ W

Cape Renard 65º01’ S 64º48’ W

Peltier Chnnel 64º52’ S 63º34’ W
Kayak

Neumayer Channel 64º43’ S 63º17’ W

Port Lockroy

Goudier Island/Jougla Point 64º50’ S 63º30’ W

Damoy Point/Dorian Bay 64º49’ S 63º32’ W

Gerlache Strait

Pleneau Bay and Port Lockroy

Pleneau Bay lies just south of the Lemaire Channel, separating Hovgaard Island and the Antarctic Peninsula. At the northwest end of the bay there is a passage between Hovgaard Island and Booth Island where the Pléneau Island groups can be accessed. Here we can find an iceberg graveyard, where both large tabular icebergs and older, rolled icebergs have run aground. Many of these icebergs have originated from as far south as the Ross Ice Shelf. Port Charcot lies on the north coast of Booth Island (then named Wandel Island). It was discovered by Jean-Baptiste Charcot in 1904 and named for his father. Charcot’s crew spent the winter of 1904 in this location. Their ship, Français, was moored and the men slept onboard but established a shore station for scientific observations and as a potential emergency shelter.

Port Lockroy is a half mile-long and -wide harbor on the west side of Wiencke Island in the Palmer Archipelago. It is named after Edouard Lockroy, the French politician who assisted Dr. Jean Baptiste Charcot in obtaining government backing for his expedition French Antarctic Expeditions of 1903-1905 & 1908-1910. Port Lockroy is comprised of Jougla Point and Goudier Island, both of which are home to numerous nesting gentoo penguins.

British history in Antarctica began when Captain James Cook first circumnavigated the continent in 1773-75. UK presence in Antarctica dates back to 1943 when the Royal Navy mounted operation Tabarin. Its mission was to provide reconnaissance and meteorological information concerning the South Atlantic by establishing a series of small stations along the Antarctic Peninsula. Port Lockroy is the home to Base A, which has been turned into a museum. There is also a gift shop and post office on Goudier Island where stamps and souvenirs may be purchased, and mail can be sent, although delivery usually takes a number of weeks. US DOLLARS & POUNDS STERLING accepted. Credit card is accepted for purchases over $100. Port Lockroy is a small space! We will take half of you to Goudier Island and half to Jougla Point. After approximately one hour we will switch groups so that everyone can experience both locations.
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Very hard ice conditions, nothing happening until 10AM; cruise through Bismark Strait; later on zodiac cruise.
Kayaking on Channel Peltier all the way to the Port Lockroy and Gudier Island. Good 3 hours of kayaking, zig zag across the channel, at the beginning was great, but later on wind picked up! Spent $200 on shirts, cap, and gifts. Michael and Andy rescued a gentoo penguin from net’s string around his leg.

Instead of a regular dinner we had a BBQ at the top deck. Grilled meat, chicken and beef, and fish for me! Potatoes, salads, hot red wine and cookies. In a second of time everything is cold!

Late night at the bar, Dan and his guitar and songs about Ocean Nova, kayaking and camping.

December 18, 2008
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Portal Point and Hydrurga Rocks

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

Portal Point and Hydrurga Rocks

Portl Point 64º30’ S 61º46’ W

Cierva Cove 64º09’ S 61º07’ W

A Falkland Island Dependency hut once stood at Portal Point; however it has recently been removed. Portal Point is of historical significance as it was the gateway for expeditions to the polar plateau. The surrounding topography is mountainous with many nunataks rising from the snow. On both sides of the landing site there are beautiful glacier tongues pouring out towards the ocean. We hope to offer a walk up the surrounding snow slope allowing time for individual contemplation conditions permitting.

These small islets making up Hydruga Rocks are named after the Leopard Seal, Hydrurga leptonyx. Hydruga Rocks lies to the east of Two Hummock Island in the Palmer Archipelago. The main island in the group rises to 25 meters above sea level with a barren and rocky summit. Chinstrap penguins, blue-eyed shags and kelp gulls are all confirmed breeders at this location.
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Todays’ kayaking was postponed due to bad weather conditions, too much wind and swelling sea. Instead zodiac cruising; last group to sail was the luckiest one since they saw whale at the close encounter. The rest of us, especially Jim, were so disappointed since no one call to tell us directions were to go; like a zombie we were cruising around looking for whales! Nothing happened.
Brunch from 9 - 11am. After that another zodiac cruises at Cierva Cove.
Shop was open again; instead went to room. Didn’t wanna risk anything, called Dr Maureen for first half a dose of whatever injection she has. Slept for next 48 hours, without torturing myself through the Drake Passage.

December 19, 2008
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At Sea, the Drake Passage 61 03 South 63 05 West

Drake Passage

At Sea, the Drake Passage 61º03’ S 63º05’ W
In bed all day

December 20, 2008
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At Sea, the Drake Passage

Drake Passage

At Sea, the Drake Passage 56º57’ S 65º25’ W

Afternoon tea in the Panaroma Lounge, and briefing about disembarkation. Captain’s Farewell Cocktail Party (a lots of bubbly again) and dinner with the crew singing XMass carol songs! Best of photos presentation at the Promenade Lounge.

December 21, 2008
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Back to Ushuaia

Ushuaia, Argentina

Ushuaia 54º48’ S 68º17’ W
Breakfast at 6:30AM, and disembarkation at 7:30AM. Crazy bus ride again through the custom. Left the baggage at the store room and headed for a walk with Ann, her mother, Michael and others. Only one place open at so early hour; we didn’t want to blend with other ship’s passengers, but later returned to the same café for hot chocolate. Met Chrisy and Allan, and Steve for lunch, went back to Tango B&B, tried to take a nap, and back to town for a dinner, at La Cantina Fueguina at San Martin, took a walk down the shore, at the longest day of the year for this hemisphere!

Suma sumarum
Total Distance Traveled: 1584 nautical miles
7 species of penguins – gentoo, king, rock hopper, macaroni, adelie, chinstrap, emperor young one
sea lions
sea leopards
whales
albatrosses
birds
one night of camping at the continent
9 landings
5 kayak trips
1 BBQ
everything else - priceless

1-5 of 35 imagesMy Travel Photo Album


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