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From the arctic to the equator (Yukon to the Galapagos)

By : Rhonda Markel
Trip Begins December 13, 2009
Trip Ends December 20, 2009

To dream is to be alive! Ever since I was a little girl I dreamed about visiting the Galapagos Islands. Little did I know, that one day I would achieve that dream, not from Montreal where I was born, but from the Yukon, in northern Canada.

Dec 13 - San CristobalFrom the arctic to the equator.
Dec 14 - GenovesaThe Genovesa experience
Dec 15 - FernandinaFernandina
Dec 16 - SantiagoExploring Santiago Island
Dec 17 - BartolomeFrom Bartolome to Seymour
Dec 18 - Santa Cruz IslandA day on land - Santa Cruz Island
Dec 19 - EspanolaEspinosa Island and San Cristobal
Dec 20 - San CristobalReflections of an incredible journey

See my photos : From the arctic to the equator (Yukon to the Galapagos)

Want to go? Eric, Letty & Flamingo: 8 Day Tour

I went to: Galapagos, Bartolome, Santa Cruz Island, Fernandina, Isabela, Genovesa, Santiago, South Plaza, North Seymour, Espanola, San Cristobal

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December 13, 2009

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From the arctic to the equator.

San Cristobal, Galapagos

To dream is to be alive!
Ever since I was a little girl I dreamed about visiting the Galapagos Islands. Little did I know, that one day I would achieve that dream, not from Montreal where I was born, but from the Yukon, in northern Canada.

All dreams have their origins and mine was inspired on a cold winter night while watching the northern lights dance across the sky. While marveling at the green and violet hues of the aurora swirling overhead I realized that there were many wonders in the world that I had yet to experience.Yukon winters are long, dark and cold and provide many oppportunities for scheming trips to warm, sunny locations.

My opportunity came when I decided to volunteer at an International Park Ranger Congress in Bolivia. Afterall, the Galapagos is only a hop, skip and a jump from Santa Cruz.

Well the day finally arrived! I boarded the airplane in Quito with my natural history of the Galapagos guidebook in hand. Images of boobies, penguins and turtles abounded in my head. I had to pinch myself as the plane landed and I was about to commence this great adventure.

In the airport terminal I quickly scanned the passengers wondering with whom I would be spending the next 8 days onboard the Flamingo. Would it be the group standing in the corner casually sharing stories, or the three people standing by the door?

I was soon to meet my fellow travellers, new friends with whom I would share my adventure. There were 14 of us in total - faces beaming, anticipating the wonders we were about to experience. Off we traipsed to the Flamingo, our home for the next 8 days, where we met the captain and crew - an integral part of our journey.

After a gourmet lunch we embarked on pangas (zodiacs) and headed to shore. Although it was cloudy, windy, drizzly and too rough to snorkel, it didn't matter, as I was at the Galapagos !!!! On shore we were greeted by sea lions, magnificent frigate birds and Galapagos mockingbirds. After dinner we circumnavigated Lion Rock and Kick Rock marveling at the cliffs, populated by frigate birds, nazca boobies and shearwaters. Then we cruised into the setting sun, enroute to Genovesa Island.

December 14, 2009

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The Genovesa experience

Genovesa, Galapagos

We awoke in Darwin Bay to a view of Genovesa Island. It was but a short panga ride to the beach where Gaby and Pepe, our guides, introduced us to some of the local inhabitants - red-footed boobies, frigate birds, red-billed tropic birds, the nimble sally lightfoot crabs and iguanas. It was amazing how close one could get to the red footed boobies. There was no need for a telephoto lens - my little point and shoot camera worked wonders. The red footed boobies, unlike the blue-footed or nazca boobies, perch in trees wrapping their bright red feet around the branches. The blue around their eyes and on their bills looked as if it had been skillfully painted with a fine brush.

After our wonderful lunch and siesta we headed to Prince Philip's steps. We saw nazca boobies in all stages of life, from delicate downy chicks to mature adults. They were very innocent and fearless of people. After living and working in the Yukon for 30 years it was absolutely amazing to be able to get so close to wild birds and animals such as iguanas. Back home moose, bears, wolves etc usually run at the sight or scent of humans. Gaby and Pepe shared their abundant knowledge of the natural history of the Galapagos islands and explained importance of staying on the trails and not touching the animals.

We returned to the boat and started our 14+ hour journey to Fernandina Island. It was quite rough and not surprisingly several of the group didn't make it to dinner. That evening most of us sat on the deck enjoying the fresh air and gazing at the brilliant stars illuminating the night sky. I felt small and humble watching the vast array of stars in the sky, it also made me realize how small and fragile our world is. If I was home, I would be partaking in a moonlit ski with friends, however, here I was experiencing the same moon in the Galapagos. Many a tale was spun that evening as we shared glimpses into each others lives.

December 15, 2009

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Fernandina

Fernandina, Galapagos

Every morning I awoke with a smile on my face wondering what the day would bring. I was not once disappointed. I awoke early and made my way to the front of the boat in search of whales. They are sometimes spotted in this area, however not this morning. Instead, we watched a large pod of dolphins playing in the waves. They swam effortlessly under, over and through the waves in perfect synchronicity with the rhythms of the ocean.

We arrived at Punta Espinosa to find it teeming with marine iguanas.You had to watch every step as they were everywhere! As it was mating season we were able to witness aggressive behaviours and lots of head bobbing. It was quite comical watching their posturing and strange head movements. We learned that the marine iguanas feed on chlorophylian algae as well as the feces of sea lions (yum). Another interesting tidbit of information is that they are actually expelling excess salt through their nostrils when it looks like they are spitting.

Punta Espinosa was beautiful. The stark landscape of rope and aa lava contrasted sharply with the blue hues of the ocean. In our exploration of tide pools we saw green sea urchins, large spiny sea urchins and shells. We were also lucky enough to see a sting ray, several marine turtles and a flightless cormorant from shore.

Our snorkel off the the west side of Isabella Island was magical. Turtles swam both below and right beside us, moving effortlessly through the water. Not to mention the penguins, the chocolate chip starfish, the orange sea horse, sea urchins and the multitude of colourful fish all around us. There was a fascinating and mysterious world right at our fingertips just below the surface of the water.

On our evening panga ride we saw penguins, blue footed boobies and flightless cormorants. Flightless cormorants are quite intriguing. Their wings are tiny, atrophied to little remnants, as they are not needed for flying. Instead of soaring in the sky, these birds spend a lot of time under the water hunting for food.

After dinner I gave a photo presentation to the group on the national parks of the Yukon. lt was fun and there were lots of questions and good discussion.

December 16, 2009

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Exploring Santiago Island

Santiago, Galapagos

During the morning hike on the lava strewn coast of Santiago Island we were treated to the sight of colourful marine iguanas, birds such as yellow warblers, plovers, anis, ostercatchers, finches, pelicans and a new species of sea lion - the fur sea lion.

We stepped close to the edge of blow holes and arches, mesmerized by the water rushing through the holes, the sound of the blows and misted air. The bright orange sally lightfoot crabs scurrying about provided a sharp and welcome contrast to the ever present black lava.

Those of us who thought that there was nothing new to be seen while snorkeling were quickly proved wrong. At Sombrero Chino (Chinese Hat), some of us were in close proximity to a family of white tipped sea sharks. They were beautiful to watch. We swam alongside penguins, rays, and marine iguanas. Our previous sightings of marine iguanas were on shore, not while in their element, swimming under water.

The sea lions were really playful, appearing out of nowhere and coming within inches or should I say centimeters of our masks. A little startling to say the least.

I learned that it is the convergence of currents from Australia, Panama and coastal South America that provide such a nutrient rich area allowing for penguins, iguanas, sea lions and turtles to occur in the same place. The galapagos is truely an amazing place.

We enjoyed a beautiful cruise to our mooring spot alongside Bartolome Island. At one point Pablo, the captain, announced that we should all go up top. We were approaching Rabida Island, a collapsed and weathered crater with a lake in its centre. Imagine our surprise, when we spotted bright pink flamingos, on the far side of the lake!

As the sun set, we passed Pinnacle Rock, a volcanic needle standing tall alongside Bartolome Island. It appeared to be guarding the bay. We were lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the boat.

December 17, 2009

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From Bartolome to Seymour

Bartolome, Galapagos

After an early breakfast we walked up the 350+ steps to the summit of the central volcanoe of Bartolome Island. From here we experienced great views of the nearby islands and were exposed to a landscape of volcanic desolation. We could see spatter cones, scoria formations, tuff cones and black volcanic sand. It was not entirely desolate, as the isthmus to the west was covered with mangroves and coves of golden sand.

Once again it was time to snorkel, this time we ventured along the rocky shoreline towards the pinnacle. There were two playful sea lions who revelled in sneaking up on unwary snorkellers and startling them. One had the audacity to tug at the zipper pull on the back of my wetsuit.

Then it was back to the boat where we were once again greeted by the smiling faces of the crew. Luis, as usual, would be waiting for us with a cool refreshing drink and a tasty snack to tide us over until dinner. Onwards we cruised to Seymour, the island of blue footed boobies and frigate birds. Some of the male frigate birds that we saw had really large inflated red pouches. We learned that these colorful inflated pouches are used to attract females. Supposedly once a female choses a male, it is not uncommon for her to pierce his pouch so that he is no longer attractive (ouch!). The pouch does heal before the next breeding season.

The blue footed boobies were so trusting, not bothered at all as we walked beside females sitting on eggs and newly hatched downy young. It was incredible. I would love to be able to see the mating rituals of these birds, perhaps another time.

After dinner we cruised on to Santa Cruz Island. It felt strange to see the lights of a city. It had a beauty of its own, albeit different from that of a star filled sky. A few of us sat up top, talking long into the night.

December 18, 2009

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A day on land - Santa Cruz Island

Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

Santa Cruz was very lush and green, quite a contrast to the stark volcanic landscape of the past few days. The Prickly pears, (as tall as trees and with orangy red trunks) and the tropical flowers were a pleasant change.

Our first stop was the Twins, two collapsed, vegetated craters, sitting high in the misty sky. From here we went to a tortoise breeding/rearing facility where eggs are collected, reared for 7 years and then released into the wild.

Upwards and onwards to see "lonesome George" the last living tortoise of his species. It was sad to hear that attempts to breed George with a similar species of tortoise were unsuccessful, producing infertile eggs. His death will result in the extinction of another species from the planet.

We did see other species of tortoises that were doing much better. We met Diego, who on the other hand, is quite a "stud". He has sired over 2000 turtles. We were told that it takes almost 30 years for a tortoise to reach sexual maturity. It was only recently that some of his offspring have matured and successfully hatched young - the next generation.

We walked back to pier (all downhill) where the pangas were waiting to transport us back to the Flamingo. We managed to squeeze in a little souvenir shopping along the way. On the boat another fine meal was awaiting our arrival - I am glad that they didn't weigh us before and after the trip!

December 19, 2009

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Espinosa Island and San Cristobal

Espanola, Galapagos

As usual, we awoke to a new location, this time alongside Espinosa Island. Our 2 hour walk brought us close to colourful "Christmas Iguanas" adorned in reds, greens and black. It was getting close to Christmas and thoughts of the holidays were in everyone's minds. I would soon be heading off to Merazonia, a wildlife rehabilitation centre, where I would be volunteering for two weeks (over Christmas and New Years ). But now was not the time to think of Christmas or tomorrows plans. We had to cherish every moment and partake of what Espinosa had to offer us.

Waved albatross with enormous wingspans soared high in the sky while young ones waited on shore until they were ready to fledge. We were told that once the young leave, they do not set foot on land again for 5 years! That is incredible. As we stood atop the sea cliffs we glimpsed turtles swimming in the turquoise water below. Frigate birds and red billed tropic birds soared overhead as we strolled along the path, intrigued by the lava lizards, nazca boobies, flycatchers, finches and the snake that slithered by. It was a really, hard place to leave.

Back we went to the Flamingo, where some of us swam off the back of the boat in the spare time before lunch was ready. This afternoon proved to be different from the others. We were transported via panga to a beautiful white sandy beach where we had free time (what a concept) to snorkel, swim, walk or just plain old relax.

There were sea lions of all ages basking in the sun, while nearby, young pups were frolicking and playing on the beach. The ocean was a blend of blues, greens and turquoise and was warm enough to swim in without a wetsuit. Time passed quickly and before we knew it, it was time to go back to the boat. we still had to head to San Cristobal where we would be debarking the following day.

Before dinner we had a farewell toast with the entire crew. I was going to miss the ever-smiling face of Maria, a very talented woman ( a jack of all trades - house keeping, first mate and what ever else needed doing) and our knowledgeable and friendly guide Gaby. The entire crew was awesome. I also appreciated the efforts of Adventure Life to reduce their environmental impact. This was one of the factors that influenced my choice of tour companies.The Galapagos is a very fragile place that deserves to be protected in perpetuity.

After dinner there was a flurry of email exchanges and a promise to share photos. We went up top, and gazed at the lights of the city, the lights of the boats and the stars above. This was an incredible trip and I would be bringing back lots of memories and photos to help me remember my time in the Galapagos.

We had breakfast at 7:30 and were off the boat by 8:15 so that there was enough time to visit the visitor centre and to walk around town. As we waited for our plane at the airport I watched with envy, the people arriving, who were about to start their Galapagos aventure.

December 20, 2009

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Reflections of an incredible journey

San Cristobal, Galapagos

From the arctic to the equator. A journey from a land of snow and ice to the lush green tropics of the equator and the harsh desolate volcanic landscape of some of the islands. A landscape that erupted from the sea millions of years ago and continues to do so today. Islands of volcanic origins continuing to persist, rising from the ocean floor to be beaten down by pounding waves. An endless cycle. The convergence of currents, upwellings and nutrients bringing together penguins, turtles, sharks and sea lions. Life abounds in this special place.

It is a land of innocence, fearlessness and openess to all that come, allowing its secrets to unfold for those willing to learn. The dance of the boobies, the splendid displays of the male magnificent frigate birds and the incredible waved albatross are part of the magic. Life abounds under the surface of the ocean, visible to those willing to jump in donning snorkels, masks and fins.

What a priviledge to be able to share their underwater world and witness graceful sea turtles, penguins torpedoing by in search of food, sea stars, urchins, the colourful array of fish and the list goes on and on...........

Everyday was packed with adventure, almost too much to absorb. Facts about adaptations, behaviour and interesting tidbits filled every corner of my brain. The theory of evolution studied at school became a reality as I saw the finches that Darwin spoke about.

Add to this the comradery of new friends from all walks of life. We shared in the delights and wonders of the Galapagos, expanding our horizons and seeing things through each others eyes. Hundreds upon hundreds of images were taken of the Galapagos and each other - memories imprinted in our minds forever.

The Galapagos is bewitching, casting its spell on you, tempting you to return and experience each of its seasons.

As I migrated home across this planet we call home, I started dreaming about my next great adventure. As Leonardo de Vinci said " Qui est guide par une etoile ne regarde jamais en arriere" (one who is guided by a star never looks back). Of course I will share my incredible journey with others, but it is time to look ahead and aspire to new dreams.
Perhaps the antarctic..........................

My Photo Album: From the arctic to the equator (Yukon to the Galapagos)