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Galapagos - An Amazing Vacation

By : Suzanne Hoffman
Trip Begins August 26, 2010
Trip Ends September 5, 2010

The landscape, the animals, the ship, and the service - all were outstanding!
See my photos : Galapagos - An Amazing Vacation

Want to go? La Pinta: 10 Day Tour

I went to: Galapagos, San Cristobal, Ecuador, Quito, Bartolome, Santa Cruz Island, Fernandina, Isabela, North Seymour, Espanola, Floreana, Rabida, Highlands, Charles Darwin Center
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August 26, 2010
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The Journey Begins

Quito, Ecuador

The day starts at 0230. I have 4 alarms set - 2 by the bed and 2 on the dresser! My husband Harry has one. The flight leaves at 0648 and the airport is ~1 hour away. There are two kinds of people in the world when it comes to air travel - those who get to the airport (maybe too) early and those who don't want to spend an extra minute there. They're usually married to each other. I fall into the first category while Harry prefers dashing in at the last minute. I "let him think" (OK - so I told a little white lie) that the flight is a bit earlier than it is so we aren't late. I am so excited! He doesn't particularly want to go on this trip. I can't imagine why - but it just doesn't seem interesting to him. He agreed to come though when I decided that *I* was definitely going. I was diagnosed with cancer last year and decided that life was too short to wait any longer for something I have always wanted to do. Harry has carry-on luggage (as ALWAYS) - I have a bag that can be checked -with whatever doesn't fit added to my clothes. I've done all my homework - even checking the web to see if there is any roadwork planned that cause problems in our trip to the airport. (There isn't) We arrive on time and - in what seems like no time - we're off! We're on COPA airlines, a South American carrier that I had never heard of before this trip. It is virtually empty (a 737 with only 24 people and 1 cat as passengers). The stewardess tells me this is the emptiest flight she has ever been on . They serve us breakfast (wow - you never even see hot food on American airlines anymore!) with real silverware! We change planes in Panama City and eventually arrive in Quito. We get a cab and head for the hotel. Though we speak no Spanish, it is clear that our driver does not approve of the driving habits of many others on the road. We get to our hotel, the Casa Aliso safely though. The hotel is lovely and the manager brings us wonderful coca tea and delicious cookies - I'm impressed! He later walks us to a restaurant where we have a delicious meal and then comes looking for us when we are not back in over an hour - he is worried that we have gotten lost (we haven't). We get to bed pretty early. I am really excited!

August 27, 2010
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San Cristobal

San Cristobal, Galapagos

I am up at 0400 (I feel like a kid on Christmas!) A van from Adventure Life picks us up a few hours later and takes us to the Quito airport. We get a nice lesson about the environs of the city . We are dropped off and shown where to go. We accidentally get in the wrong line and our guide appears from nowhere and points us to where we should be. (Again, I am impressed!) We get through security and are on our way to San Cristobal in the Galapagos! We know our ship name is La Pinta and we have a grey pin with its name that we are to wear so that we are routed to the right ship. I start to worry a bit when many on our plane have a pin with a different name. What do they know that we don't? When we get off the plane I take so many pictures that we are among the last thru the door at the airport. (Harry is beginning to wonder how many I will take in 10 days). Our pin gets us in the right group and we meet one of the naturalists and some of our shipmates in the Galapagos airport. Everyone is really nice - whew! We take a bus to the pier and then take pangas (I've learned a new word already - these are motorized dingys) to the ship. Sea lions are everywhere - on the sand, on the steps of the pier, and on many of the anchored boats. How neat! We get to the ship - and it is lovely! The other ship with the name on so many others' pins is anchored nearby - I am really happy that we made our selection! We also find out that there will only be 18 passengers rather than the 48 it can hold. That sounds nice too! We have an amazing lunch and then get wet suits and snorkeling gear. Our first adventure is on the beach on another part of the island. There are so many sea lions - some walking around, some lying around, some snuggling, and some suckling - fascinating! Whomever invented wetsuits must not have had an ounce of fat on his or her body - I look like a beached whale but I do get in the water and I have to admit it keeps me warmer that I would be without it . I am among the first few in the panga (I'm cold) as we get ready to go back to the ship. A large male sea lion has decided he is interested in a female. She definitely does not share his interest and tries to become one of our passengers. He (with his very big & sharp teeth) chases her around the boat. After a while they both scamper off onto the beach and we head back to the ship. We shower and have dinner. Another incredible meal! By 2130 we are wiped out. Harry seems to be having a good time - but won't say more than it's OK. For me, the adventure has now really begun!

August 28, 2010
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North Seymore and Santa Cruz

North Seymour, Galapagos

We see North Seymore in the morning and Santa Cruz in the afternoon (somehow we fit in 3 enormous and incredible meals too!) In the morning we get our first view of some fascinating birds as well as our first iguanas and crabs. I'd seen pictures of blue footed boobies before - but it was absolutely astounding to see them in the flesh and blood. Blue is just not a color you see very often in nature! We saw a mating dance, parents nesting on eggs, and even newly hatched chicks! We respected the 6 foot rule as much as we could - but sometimes the birds were closer than that to the trail. We also saw two groups of frigate birds - each had a number of males with their magnificent red throats inflated! No wonder this feature attracts the females - they were astounding! We even saw carrying nesting materials. There were various other finches and a lava heron too. The iguanas are really neat - they are land iguanas (I didn't even know there were various types) - they look so prehistoric! I feel like I am in a 1950s monster film. This is everything I hoped it would be! Of course there are sea lions too. Being from Maryland - I'd never have thought I'd be amazed by crabs - but the red ones are so brilliantly colored and there are even little black ones. In the afternoon, the land was different - mostly black basalt and some very red dirt - the red reminds me of Hawaii - but nothing is lush. More and different birds and iguanas - large yellowish iguanas as well as black ones - finches, mocking birds, and one that looked something like a duck. Unfortunately there was also a feral cat - proof of the difficulty in keeping the islands pure. If this one is not caught, it could have a substantial effect on the ecosystem. It runs off into the brush. In the evening we see 6-7 large sharks circling the boat and sea lions and fish chasing florescent fish that are jumping out of the water. Amazing! Harry spends a long long time watching the evening 'fish show' - but still does not say he has changed his mind about the trip. I think he is just not ready to admit this is fun.

August 29, 2010
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Post Office Bay and Floreana

Floreana, Galapagos

Our first stop is Post Office Bay - a place where a tradition continues of travellers taking letters / postcards with addresses near their home towns and then hand delivering them. I take several (to Harry's astonishment) - a few with addresses in Northern Virgina and one in New Jersey. We leave cards for several friends and family. I think this is such a fun idea! Harry goes snorkling and I go out in a glass bottomed boat. I see amazing starfish (only I learn they are now called sea stars), some interesting fish, and coral. On Floreana I walk on the beach when Harry goes snorkling. There is a 'family' of blue footed boobies - two young and two parents. The parents are taking turns going off to get fish. Watching them dive is interesting - they return with food to feed the babies. It really seems as though when one returns he/she push the other out. The sharing of child-rearing in the avian world! (How sophisticated!) Apparently this is an unusual 'family unit' - having the parents nuturing 2 healthy babies. There's also a young sea lion who waddles up and makes himself at home right by the towel and backpack of one of our fellow shipmates. I learn that their eyesight is not good - so maybe he has mistaken the backpack for his mother. The towel owner returns - but the sea lion stays . Very cute! We see rays in the surf and a lone pink flamingo. I love this stuff! Harry still seems to be having fun - though that word does not yet cross his lips.

August 30, 2010
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Isabela

Isabela, Galapagos

Today is Isabela day. We start out on a small bouncy bus and ride for about 45 minutes. Even if we see nothing else, the day is already interesting - just seeing what the inner parts of the island look like. We have a local guide (I had no idea before we got here that there was any such thing as a 'local' from the islands!) who showed us around an area that had been a radar station during WWII and also a prison island for the mainland. A key site is the 'wall of tears' - sounds like the guards were at least as bad as the prisoners. I guess alot of countries have bad histories. We see wild tortoises (I've now learned that they're not turtles) and remnants of a concrete basketball court. There is no fresh water on the island - how much we take for granted! We also go to Villamil - a small town with a beautiful beach. It's a bit surreal as the residents who are out in the middle of the ocean and living a life so different from everyone on every ship that comes by, seem oddly unaffected by all the strange visitors who wander around their town. Harry gets a large beer and I a soda and the total is only $2.50! (Oh yeah - I have forgotten to mention that the official currency is U.S. dollars. Yet another thing I had no idea about - how can one country use another's money as its official currency?!) In the afternoon we hike to the Sierra Negro volcano caldron. It is a long hot walk - but it's always nice to be outside and the view is worth the wait. As we head back to the ship, the seas are pretty rough and I focus on the inside of the panga and not the swells around us . I am determined not to be nervous about anything on this trip . The crew is extremely safety conscious - so they also instill confidence. Not surprisingly we are back in the Pinta in short order. The sea stays rough and I get my first experience in being seasick. It's not too bad - but I can only eat a few bites at dinner. Normally I would not mind and God knows I don't need anywhere near as much food as we get on the ship, but it seems a shame to miss out on even one fantastic meal. The dining room is noticably empty as many are affected - even our guides - so I don't feel like too much of a wimp. Even though I don't feel too great tonight - it's another great day!

August 31, 2010
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Santa Cruz Highlands & the Darwin Center

Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

We take a long bus ride on Santa Cruz to see Giant tortoises. Even before we get to the farm, we see a number of large ones on the side of the road. As with Isabela, I find even the bus ride interesting - just to see how people live on the inner parts of the island. The tortoises are pretty amazing - they're huge - and also prehistoric looking. When I get a bit too close to one, he retreats into his shell and even the related sound is so fascinating - sounds like a quiet hydraulic system. We get back in the bus and visit a lava tunnel and two sink holes (lava tunnels that have collapsed). All three are very interesting - but I am most fascinated by the animals. We have a delicious lunch at a seaside hotel (our first off-ship meal - but still delicious). We then go to the Darwin Center and walk around Porto Ayoro, the surrounding town. The Center has more and different tortoises and iguanas, all being raised to be returned to the wild. We also see famous 'Lonesome George" who is the last of his species . It seems like he has a peaceful life (he has girlfriends in with him) - just doesn't seem to want any children ;') . One of the most interesting parts of the town is where the fishermen bring in their catch, clean it, and sell it to the town people. Sea lions, pelicans, and other birds anxiously await opportunities to steal small bites or even entire fish. We buy several pounds of Galapagos coffee and I get a large package of chocolate cookies in a small grocery. I've not yet found any other form of chocolate and I dare not show up at work after returning from vacation with no chocolate. I wonder how in the world we're going to fit the coffee in our bags. Harry's carry-on does not have an inch of room in it though he does have the small fold-up knapsack that I convinced him to take. Fortunately mine has a zippered expansion. Five people leave the tour today (I guess they were on the short version) and two joined. The new father and son from Quito are just as nice as the reast of our shipmates fortunately.

September 1, 2010
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Bartolome & Rabida

Rabida, Galapagos

This morning we visit Bartolome which really looks like Mars. The only sign of human existence is a set of steps leading to the highest point on the island and a small lighthouse. Keeping people on the steps prevents erosion. Though it seems like there cannot possibly life on this island, we see several species of birds, some small lizards, crabs, some colorful cactus, and a few other plants. We'd been told there was a small chance to see orca whales on this trip and as we were looking out to sea from one of the viewing areas, someone notices whales in the surf. I see three but others see 5-6. Our naturalist/guide confirms that they actually are orcas and we run back down the steps as the he radios the ship to send the pangas for us so we can get closer. Unfortunately they decide to swim out to see before we can get any closer. We go back up the long flight of steps (it IS good exercise) and are treated to a magnificent view. This is where parts of Master and Commander was filmed . A bit later Harry goes snorking and I go for another glass-bottomed boat ride. More sea lions and a couple of small penguins are relaxing on the perimeter of the island. The afternoon is spend on Rabida. Sadly there is a sea lion who has gotten a fish hook in his mouth. This puts a damper on the visit - but we are told that it may just rust away. We all want to believe it. Even the naturalists are noticably affected. Sigh. Another glass bottomed boat ride reveals a baracuda, a white-tipped shark, and the most amazing sea stars. One is called a chocolate chip cookie and looks just like one cut in a star shape! We take a long walk on the island and see a variety of creatures including pelicans birds that nest in cactuses.

September 2, 2010
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Espanola

Espanola, Galapagos

We are supposed to see two parts of Espanola today - but when we look out in the morning we are surprised not to see land. The seas have been very very rough during the night causing the Captain to decide to reduce his speed in order to make it more comfortable for the passengers. The result is that we are only about half way to the island in the morning - and we'll have to miss the first of the two excursions. It was to be primarily focused on deep water snorkling - so if we have to miss something - this seems like the best excursion to miss to me. I'd rather be safe, and not sick - so I am glad the Captain made the decision that he did. The ship is so nice and so comfortable that it does not seem at all like a hardship. In fact it gives me a chance to catch up on the knitting project I brought with me. Many of us watch the first 2 installments of a terrific BBC series on the Galapagos. It's a relaxing day and the afternoon is definitely worth the wait! On Espanola we immediately see (literally) PILES of black iguanas - and each turn leads us to more and bigger groups (and piles) of them. There are also many many sea lions including small pups. We see another kind of boobie - (nasca ) and also albatrosses. We see eggs, chicks, mating dances - all fasincating. The albatross babies look like large fluffy stuffed animals and they blend in with the flora so well I almost step on one. I certainly scared him. We get ready to start our trek back to the boat and our incredible guide (who never waivered on anything - even when he was obviously seasick one day) seems to have disappeared. We see him a few minutes later - he was looking for his 2-way radio. It appears to have been lost - and we have no way to contact the boat. He is mortified (and perhaps even worried that he'll be in big trouble) - but none of the passengers are concerned. We all joke about it and (seriously) tell him we are OK. We know that someone on the ship will eventually realize that our guide has not called in and they'll come and get us. We do wave to the ship and encourage those in brightly colored shirts to stand in a more visable location. In the end I think they just came as soon as they realized we were late to call in. We get back to the ship and our guide finds his radio in his room. Even the best make mistakes occassionally. It just added a little bit of adventure to our excursion and let us have a small tale to tell about being stranded on an island in the middle of the ocean. Another enchanting day! The only bad part is that we have to pack before going to bed as we depart the ship in the morning. Oh yes I forgot to mention, we fill out a questionaire in the evening about how we felt about the trip, the service, the food, the crew, etc. Harry writes glowing comments - he REALLY did like the trip!

September 3, 2010
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San Cristobal

San Cristobal, Galapagos

The seas were again rough during the night and I wake up at 5AM thinking I am rolling out of bed. Our choice today is spending the morning in the town in San Cristobal or going to another Tortoise breeding area. Almost all of us choose the tortoises. We take a 45 minute bus ride (it's also interesting to see the 'countryside'!) It's feeding time when we arrive and we see someone taking huge philodendron leaves to various feeding points. It's great fun to see thenm munching away. My new camera allows me to take some great shots too. The facility is about 5 years old. Some of the tortoises are much older than that, some were born there. All will be reintroduced into the wild. We ride back to town and spent the better part of an hour sightseeing before leaving for the airport. We buy more Galapagos coffee. I wonder how we can possibly fit it into a suitcase. It's a bit sad leaving our new friends - but we vow to keep in touch to some extent and to share photos (I've taken a couple of thousand - so it'll be a while before I can weed them down enough to be able to share). We fly back to Quito (via Guayaquil) . The Adventure Life guide meets us at he airport and gets us to a van which drops us back at Casa Aliso. The same hotel manager is there and he points us to an even better restaurant. We have cevichi - a absolutely fantastic seafood appetizer, outstanding main seafood-based dishes, and (even though we were stuffed) we shared a piece of unbelievable blackberry pie. What a meal! When we return from dinner, our hotel manager tells us he can get us a driver for $10 an hour for our last morning in Ecuador. We say yes and he makes the arrangements for the next day.

September 4, 2010
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Quito revisited

Quito, Ecuador

Our driver is supposed to arrive at 0900 but we are told he is usually early. At 0845 a young man in a suit arrives and we think it may be him - but it's not. Five minutes later, an older gentleman arrives - it is him. Once our luggage is in the trunk our driver, Geraldo, gets in the drivers seat and the young man, Julio, gets into the passenger seat. We never quite figure out his role - but it seems to be bodyguard and helper-extraordinaire. We are well taken care of. Geraldo's english is quite good, Julio's is good. Geraldo likes 'old' American music (Elvis, Beach Boys, etc) - he is playing it for us because he thinks it is romantic. We don't have the heart to tell him we'd prefer the quiet. He takes us to the equator museum - which is a fascinating place. We never figure out why it seems impossible to walk a straight line ON the equator. There are other interesting exercises like watching water flow in diffeent directions and getting an egg to stand on end. We also learn about indigeneous people and even see a real shrunken head (eerily fascinating - but it makes me shudder to think about it). He then heads back to show us the old town and a cathedral. Traffic is SO BAD that we decide to go to the market instead. Parking is impossible and Geraldo drops off Harry and I and Julio. Julio is great - he helps us communicate, carries bags, and watches to ensure we are protected from pickpockets. I am hesitant to buy anything (except chocolate for the office ) as I cannot imagine how it will fit into our suitcases. Harry has no such worries and we end up with a couple of bags, 2 sweaters, an afghan, socks, and a fair amount of chocolate. (I am thinking that we will have to buy a suitcase at the airport) . When we are done, Julio calls Geraldo and he appears around the corner. We stuff all our treasures into the trunk and head for the airport. We spend about 20 minutes on the floor stuffing things into suitcases - mostly mine. Thank goodness that it is designed with an expandable zipper! We get our bags checked (even Harry decides it is time to check a bag) , and relax. I manage to buy a Christmas ornament and get it into my carry-on before we get on the plane. We are tired!

September 5, 2010
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Home

Maryland, USA

It's after 1 AM when we arrive at the airport and there are not too many people working in the customs or baggage area. We head for the car at around 2AM. It's about an hours ride home. There is road work and we're unable to get off on the Washington beltway - so we continue into unknown territory thinking there will be a sign to get us back from the detour. There is not - and I have left my GPS in the trunk. We find a safe place, get it out, and find our way home. It's well after 3AM. It was a great trip - I'll unpack another day.

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