USA Today Logo New York Times Logo Outside Magazine Logo Conde Nast Traveler Logo National Geographic Traveler
Create your Trip Journal [click here]

Guatemala

By : Elizabeth Parker
Trip Begins May 15, 2009
Trip Ends May 27, 2009

I organized this trip for the AAUW (American Association of University Women) San Juan Branch. Thanks to the economy's personal case of "swine flu" only 7 of us took the trip. Guatemala is a beautiful country!
See my photos : Guatemala

Want to go? Guatemala Classico

I went to: Guatemala, Guatemala City, Antigua, Santiago de Atitlan, Flores, Tikal Ruins, Chichicastenango
[enlarge map]
[reduce map]
May 15, 2009
Top

We're on Our Way!

Antigua, Guatemala

This is it! The day we leave for Guatemala is finally here. This is a day I have dreamed about and planned for since the day I went home from my first trip here, two years ago. People look at me strangely when I tell them about how I fell in love with Guatemala on that first trip - but that was my inspiration for organizing this trip - I just had to get my friends here to see what a fascinating country this is.

My husband Gerry and I left with our friend Joanne from San Juan, Puerto Rico, this morning. Our flight to Miami was delayed because of birds (egrets) feeding in the grass next to the runway. The pilot was not willing to risk their being sucked into the engines so we had to pull off the runway and wait for some unfortunate person to come and try to scare them off...believe me it was hilarious to watch him driving around in the mud and water trying to get those birds to go elsewhere (they just circled around him and landed again!) It was not hilarious to watch the minutes tick by on our watches: We had a 35 minute connection in Miami, and minute by minute as we waited for the birds to move, that layover was being eaten up!

The birds did eventually tire of playing with the guy in the truck and we took off for Miami - flying "low" according to the pilot so we could fly faster and make up the lost time...which we did! The highlight of the flight was the pilot instructing us to look out the right side of the plane as there were blue whales breaching down below us. Of course, we couldn't see that - but it certainly helped keep up the "nature" theme we had established for the flight!

We arrived in Miami with just barely 20 minutes until the flight to Guatemala City was scheduled to take off! Unfortunately our route through the airport took us through all of that infernal construction, so we arrived at the gate exhausted from walking as fast as we could and with literally a minute to spare. The boarding area was already closed, but apparently they were waiting for us...whew!

Our flight was uneventful, and Gerry was really impressed with the food! We landed at the (new to me) airport in Guatemala City. Another long walk to get to immigration and customs, but other than having to fill out a yet another form because of the swine flu scare, it all went smoothly.

Upon leaving customs we easily found Joanne's friends Mike and Anita, with whom she was spending the night in Guatemala City and our driver from Viaventure to take us to Antigua.

The weather was lovely, cool but not at all cold and though it was cloudy and we saw rain drops from time to time, it was just so great to be here that nothing was going to dampen our enthusiasm.

Our driver, Ricardo, was great! We mostly spoke Spanish (although his English was perfect) and we had an enjoyable ride getting to know each other and learning all kinds of interesting things about Guatemala during the 45 minute ride.

At one point, as we were coming down out of the mountains, the road was very steep and curvy. My husband was a white as a sheet and Ricardo was deftly driving at what seemed to be a pretty high speed. Poor Gerry! He thought we were on a two way road - and since we were hurtling down the mountain in the left-hand lane - he was sure that his life was about to end! I was oblivious because I knew we were on a four lane highway and the lanes going in the opposite direction were just obscured behind the trees!

We arrived here in Antigua at about 2:30 in the afternoon (two hour time change from Puerto Rico) - and checked into the hotel, tired and ready for a nap. But you know how hard it is to stay in a hotel room when a new place beckons right outside the door - so in less than 10 minutes we were up and on our way to the bank to change money and get an initial look-see.

Our hotel, La Aurora, is just 2 blocks from the Parque Central (Central Park or main square) - making us extremely well located for getting around the city. We took a two hour stroll around the area - going up to La Merced Church and past the hotel where Jill F. and I stayed two years ago. We walked under the Santa Catalina arch and visited a couple of craft stores - getting an idea of what is available and what the prices are (I am waiting to shop until we get to Chichicastenango). The weather is cloudy and again there were rain drops intermittently so we could get only the barest suggestion of the volcanoes.

We did then go back to the hotel and finally get in a nap. About 7:00 we were out again and on our way to dinner. We decided to go to La Posada de Don Rodrigo - a restaurant in a tourist hotel, and touristy or not, the food was good. There was a group playing the marimba during dinner and a dance performance. It was a lovely evening and all our fellow dinners were cheerful and relaxed, too. The service was excellent!

We tried some new things - Cerveza Gallo - the local favorite, and a michelada (beer and something akin to a Bloody Mary mix) which was quite good and refreshing. Our steak and sausages were served with rice, black beans (pureed), white cheese and tortillas. I also got amarillos (fried ripe plantains). A very good meal.

We were asleep by 9:30pm.

May 16, 2009
Top

The Day Starts Early

Antigua, Guatemala

It's 4:30 am on a Saturday morning in Antigua - and we're both awake. (Of course, in Puerto Rico, it is 6:30 am already - which is our normal getting up time.) We try to fight it and go back to sleep but by 5:00am we're dressed and out the door to take photos of Antigua in the early dawn.

The light is beautiful and we really see a lovely sleeping town, with volcanoes swathed in clouds, the sun just beginning to rise and only the earliest risers out on the street (almost no one!).

We walked for about 2 hours - making it all the way to the market to watch it being set up. It was wild by the time we left - everyone scurrying about setting up their stalls, fruits and vegetables being unloaded (I saw some of the biggest carrot and papayas I have even seen in my life!). Lots of people - but not as many as there will be by mid-morning! Gerry got some great shots of huge sides of beef being unloaded from the back of a truck. Despite the fact that we were OBVIOUSLY the only people there who were not local, we got a lot of smiles (and some good pictures).

We picked up a very "simpático" pooch (I should say he adopted us) and he kept us company for the entire walk until we returned to the Central Park and Gerry forbade him to follow us any further.

By 7:45 we were having breakfast (I was starving) and ready for another nap (that's where Gerry is right now). Today we plan to take the "hike" up to the cross - even though it is cloudy, and looks like it will rain, I don't think that is an activity that the rest of our group will want to do.

We expect to see the rest of the group and officially start our adventure this afternoon.

We left the hotel about 9:45am to go do the climb up the Cerro de la Cruz. It was sort of sprinkling but not cold…yet. We asked several official-looking people where to find the correct police station to get the escort up the hill, but we got conflicting instructions and even some blank looks. Since it had started to sprinkle harder, we thought we might abandon the idea so we went to the Tourism Office which is right in the same street as our hotel.

There, they told us we could walk to another point and meet the escort on their way up the hill. It was past 10:00am by now, so too late to get to the station, but we decided to give the rendezvous point a try (it was just a couple of blocks away).

Meanwhile, the weather is going all through the spectrum: it’s warm, we take off the sweaters; it starts to rain, we cover our heads; it stops raining but now it’s cold so we put the sweaters back on…then start over again. By the time we get to the rendezvouz point we’re standing sheltered from the rain, waiting for a walking group (that’s what I remembered from two years ago).

They came in a truck! Yeah! That walk up the hill is strenuous! We drive a curvy road to the top. I was comfortable in the cab with the two officers and two college students. Poor Gerry rode in the back of the pick-up (in the rain).

At the top we had 20 minutes to look at and take pictures of the view. It was raining – but we did our best to try and get some pictures. Much of the majesty of the view was obscured by fog around the edges of the city. In the rain, 20 minutes seemed like forever so we walked back to the truck – but then the rain stopped! So we hung out, talking and taking pictures. Gerry started up a conversation with one of the college girls – this was their last day in Guatemala, having been there studying for the semester (they said their courses were too easy…). After a while we got tired of waiting for the college girls to be ready to go so we decided to walk back down on the path. Midway down it started to really rain – our only salvation were the trees of the forest that kept off some of the downpour.

Once out of the forest, there was really no hope of staying dry – but (light bulb on please!) we have our nifty $1.00 Coleman ponchos so we get them out and put them over our heads, backpacks, cameras and all – and though we look ridiculous – Gerry is bright red and I am bright blue – we’re dry and able to keep on walking.

Mostly because walking in the rain is not really all THAT fun, we take advantage of a sign advertising a Museum and we go in. There was a lot of activity in the place which it seems is some sort of cultural center, but we paid for and decided to visit the museum…museums really because there are several interconnected museums on a walk through the remains of an old university building and convent.

It was great! We were actually entering the Casa Santo Domingo from the end of the museum walk! We got to see the museum of crafts of the area – very interesting! There were exhibits on ceramics and, of course, textiles and iron working, but our favorite was the “globos” or what we think of as balloons. These balloons were like miniature hot air balloons (the kind people fly in) made out of tissue paper and wire. At the base they would suspend a stick that was wrapped with a rag doused with some sort of gas. Apparently they would light the gas on fire and release the balloon into the air. It sounded so interesting and the pictures were fascinating. Something I would love to try or at least see in real life.

The museum tour continued through a beautiful gallery of contemporary art, and then into a wonderful gallery where Mayan artifacts were shown side-by-side with modern pieces in glass (Lalique, Costa Boda and other big international glass houses.) The legends explained the significance of various animals and symbols for the Maya (the English translations were very rough).

The museums give out into the gardens and the ruins of an old convent, now the Casa Santo Domingo Hotel which is stunningly beautiful. I have no idea what it costs to stay there – but for sure, a walk through the hotel is a must! We decided to eat lunch in the restaurant so that we could just sit and enjoy the place a little longer.

Fantastic meal! Not Guatemalan really in any way – but delicious and different. Gerry had agnolotti with three cheeses in a really excellent sauce (we don’t remember the ingredients) with a steak on the side (good thing too because the portions were quite small). My plate was sea bass with a green pea sauce, a (single) scallop (the menu did say “viera” singular) and a single ravioli made with squid ink and filled with a red pepper puree. Everything was great and we really did fill up despite how small the portions seemed.

After lunch we left the hotel and walked outside.
Now the sun was out and it was hot again (off go the sweaters). Walking along casually enjoying the warm sunshine and being in Antigua, I suddenly hear Gerry gasp audibly! What??? Off to the left, the volcano has appeared from behind the clouds and it is spectacular. We spend quite a bit of time trying to get some good photos of it, but I really wonder if any picture can prepare someone for seeing the real thing – right there – and so huge!

We wandered back to our hotel to try to get a nap in before the arrival of all our friends. I made the mistake of reading for a while so that I had just barely drifted off when Gerry announced “They’re here!”
It was great to greet everyone – especially Fran and John who we had not seen in at least a year! Joanne we had dropped of the day before in Guatemala City and we had actually seen Juanita and Marshall just recently in San Juan, but it was exciting to have the group all together after all the anticipation!

They were tired, just as we had been the day before, so Gerry took them out for a quick money change before they came back to the hotel to rest.

By 6:00pm everyone was ready to go out, so we got dressed for dinner and decided to take a walk before our 7:00 reservation. The walk took us down to the Parque Central – volcanos visible now, and then up to La Merced church. We were all hungry – so we headed to the restaurant “La Fonda de la Calle Real” where our table was ready. We had a nice dinner – some people ate "pepián", a traditional dish made with chicken and potatoes and some of us had something called "suban iq" – a dish with chicken, pork and beef in a special sauce. Tasty – but filling after soup – and all that proved too much for us to be able to enjoy our dessert: a very sweet "mole" topping fried bananas.

After dinner,to bed,I was ready!

May 17, 2009
Top

Mobbed in the Market

Chichicastenango, Guatemala

We all ended up getting up early despite our tiredness and intention to sleep as late as possible. We’re all on a different time still. Gerry and I were awakened by our neighbor shouting into his cell phone at 4:41am. I tried to be serene just lying in the dark and thinking about the day ahead, so we actually didn’t get up until almost 6:00.

By 6:45am, we were all (everyone except John) gathered outside the breakfast room, awake and anxious to get the day and our tour underway. (Anxious for coffee is more accurate!).

At 8:00 we were checked out and in the lobby with our guide, Vinicio, and our driver, Antonio. We start a long but interesting drive to Chichicastenango. Vinicio is quite garrulous so we had an entertaining monologue for most of the trip. Lots of information about his life, about Guatemala, about the towns we pass through. Gerry informed him that we are “ardent feminists” who want to know everything about the lives of the women of the country – perhaps an exaggeration (the ardent part) but nevertheless we get the desired result: Lots of info about the lives of women in Guatemala.

The drive is long. We make a rest stop to use the “happy rooms” and wander around looking at crafts on sale and a whole group of motorcyclists who were there. There were also obnoxious American tourists, but what can you do! Maybe we seem like obnoxious American tourists to them!

Twice along the way we were stopped for construction. The road that is being built is going to be very nice – right now you have to get on and off gravel and cement – pretty dangerous with the chicken buses coming full tilt in both directions.

We finally arrive in Chichicastenango about 11 (and it seems like 2 in the afternoon!) Vinicio takes us out and around the market showing us different places in it: The produce market (which is inside a rather ugly pink gymnasium); the crafts market (of course) and the prepared food market – cautioning us not to eat anything!

It was not particularly crowded by my market crowd rating system but others in the group were overwhelmed by all the people. At one point we were caught right in the middle of a huge human traffic jam, resolved only by a lot of little old ladies pushing (not us). After our overview, we went back to the San Tomás Aquino Hotel for lunch.

Lunch was fine – the parrots in the lobby garden were squawking like there was no tomorrow. Apparently it was close to feeding time and they wanted to make sure no one forgot about them. There was also a marimba playing – and at times it almost sounded as the parrots were giving their opinions about the music. Once we finished lunch, we each hooked ourselves a local guide to take us through the market.

Gerry and I never did get the name of our guide, but he was very good. I would tell him what I wanted to look at and he would take me to his favorite vendors. We bargained and purchased, bargained and walked away – but altogether came back with a lot of nice stuff, most of which I will take to the “farm”. Our guide also took us to see another very old hotel in the town the Maya Inn, which looks out over the cemetery.
The hotel was very nice! It had a down to earth, native and simple feel to it. The Tomas Aquinas seems almost Mediterranean. We enjoyed the view of the cemetery: The tombs are above ground and painted in wild, bright colors. It is very lively.

After awhile, even veteran shoppers can’t take anymore of the vendors that hound you to death, so we raced back to the relative sanctuary of the hotel and waited for Vinicio. We all showed each other our purchases and just tried to wind down after the stress of the market. (I was sipping Ron Zacapá Centenario.) When it was time to leave, we steeled ourselves for the attack at the door that, sure enough, began the minute we appeared in the entrance and followed us all the way on to the bus! Poor Marshall was wading through hawking Guatemalans, old and young, with his hands in the air trying to get into the bus. It was comical for those of us watching – but no one offered to exchange places with him.

Prices were really going down as we got closer to leaving, and I was fortunate enough to snag a huipil I had admired for 100 quetzales or about $12.50 right before we closed the doors. It is a beautiful turquoise. What I’ll do with it, I don’t know, but I never pass up a bargain.

The drive to Panajachel was pretty uneventful, if you don’t count the chicken buses, and we arrived close to 4:30. One descends from very high mountains down into the caldera where Lago de Atitlan sits at the bottom. It had started to rain as we left the market, and as we began our descent to the lake we were above the clouds. Once below we could see the water but there were too many clouds to see the volcanoes.

Gerry and I got settled in our room (which looks like and feels like the exact same room Jill and I shared two years ago!) and then waited until we thought it was close to sunset to see what pictures we could get of the lake…in short – none. There were too many clouds (and it was thundering). The view was still quite nice – storms are interesting to watch in their own way.

Everyone appeared early for dinner – we were all hungry? Hard to believe we can eat so much at every meal and still look forward to the next one! It was early to bed right after dinner (a recurring theme on this trip).

May 18, 2009
Top

With our Panas in Pana

Panajachel Guatemala

("Panas" means "buddies" in Puerto Rico ... and Pana is the nickname for the town we're staying in - Panajachel)

Gerry and I got up at about 5:15 this morning (we are really having trouble sleeping in) but fighting it just doesn’t seem worth it once it starts to get light outside. We went outside to a beautiful morning to take pictures of the lake. Everything was so serene…the lake was calm, no wind at all. We got some really lovely pictures once we left the hotel and went down along the beach. The sky was mostly clear and only as the sun came up did we realize that there was a haze that was hovering around the volcanoes. I wish I could describe what it is like to sit and contemplate three volcanos in the same panorama – without even moving your head! About 6:20am we went to the dining room for breakfast – Our view? The three volcanoes! Joanne joined us at breakfast – she too had been up for awhile and just as we finished Juanita and Marshall came in. Breakfast is included with our hotel rooms.

After breakfast and after getting cleaned up and ready for the day, I went out to the patio near the lake and checked my email, uploaded the journal and some pictures to Facebook. As I was sitting on the patio, a tiny hummingbird came right to the red flowers in a planter next to the table. He was less than three feet away. I didn’t dare move to get my camera for fear of frightening him away. He returned again about 10 minutes later and this time I had my camera ready-almost! As soon as I shifted to lift it to my eye, he was on to me and off like a shot!

Before starting on our boat tour of the lake we walked up the main street of Panajachel to the ATM. The town was just starting to wake up – people were on their way to work and the shops just opening. A very pleasant time to be out people watching.

Once back at the hotel and reunited with the errant Marshall who had gone off in search of an ATM that would work with his Banco Popular ATH card…we headed to the beach with Vinicio – ready for our adventure aboard “Nancy” with our boat driver Benjamin. Our first destination was San Juan la Laguna, a "pueblo" of about 20,000 people on the southwest side of the lake just west of the San Pedro volcano. The boat ride was quite scenic – and just a little cold (not really enough to put on my sweater – but refreshing!).

San Juan is a beautiful town and well worth a visit. It is very tranquil, welcoming and clean. There are no urchins in the street selling wares – in fact there is no one on the streets selling wares! The streets are paved in bricks – everything very well taken care of. This town is known as the “town of the associations” for there are any number of cooperatives and associations working to create a sustainable tourism model for the towns around the lake.

We were very impressed. We visited a art gallery run by a group of artists; a cooperative of women who are midwives (comadres) and curanderas (healers) where we walked through a garden of plants grown for their medicinal properties; a yarn dyeing cooperative that works with organic dyes only (and what beautiful pastel colors!); a weaving cooperative that shares quarters with a school for what look like middle schoolers; a cooperative that works to restore the manual traditions of growing, preparing, spinning and weaving textiles of locally grown cotton. In each place, a very confident young woman explained the origins of each association and the work they do. We got to see everyone of them in action except the "curanderas" where, instead, we had the tour of the garden. It was a wonderful day – meeting many beautiful accomplished young women trying to maintain their Mayan traditions and history.

That was a full morning! We had to skip the trip to see the recycling co-op. In addition to these tours, the town also supports a cooperative that takes tourists out fishing on the lake and one that takes them on kayak trips through the reeds to see all the water birds and animals in the area. Before I leave the subject of San Juan la laguna, I don’t want to forget to mention that we were accompanied all morning by a local guide, Raul, who was obviously very proud of his town and the townspeople. It was well-deserved pride. He was an excellent guide.

From San Juan la Laguna, we boarded Nancy again and headed to our lunch spot (I didn’t get the name) but it was in a hotel in the bay behind the town of Santiago de Atitlán. Wonderful lunch, but the service a bit too slow for me and as such made for a long afternoon – relaxed as it was.

After lunch, we hopped aboard three tuk-tuks for a ride into the center of the town. Joanne, Juanita and I were squished into a space big enough for just 2 Guatemalans…but we enjoyed our ride immensely! Fortunately the trip to the center was less than five minutes and there were only two major bumps!

We were dropped off in the central plaza near the cathedral (I guess it is a cathedral because it is the only Catholic church in a town of 45,000. There are 23 evangelical churches in the town, too. The outside was curious – It didn’t really look like any church I have ever seen and it had a huge set of stairs rising to the entrance. Inside it was also quite curious and the story Vinicio told us about it was fascinating:

It seems that the evangelicals, in their religious zeal, liked to destroy the figures of the saints that the Mayan people would keep on altars in their homes. To protect them from being destroyed, the major families moved their saints into the church…so in the side arches around the church (they’re really just niches in the walls – large but not deep) are sets of family saints. Though they look like Christian saints, they are locally made, baroque statues that also represent Mayan religious figures. They are dressed – in real cloth robes and shirts – with headdresses when they represent spiritual leaders. Many wear scarves around their necks. This we have seen elsewhere and is a thank you gift from someone who that saint interceded for. Some have many, many scarves. Vinicio had told us about the Mayan princess who gave birth to the Baby Jesus, and his twin brother, and we saw a representation of her among the saints.

We also saw a crucified Christ – wearing the scarves and a headdress of flowers, typical of a Maya chieftan. He also wore a loincloth made of the fabric used for the traditional garb of the local men and an apron embroidered with flowers (like some of the men have on their pants).

The huge retablo behind the altar was also a mix of Mayan figures with Christian over- (or maybe under-) tones, including various carvings of corn and Maximon, the local “saint”. Just to the right of the altar sits a version of the trinity – with God the father wearing the red head covering of the most senior shaman. The syncretism is extremely interesting but, according to Vinicio, the current priest is very conservative and has been dismantling and downplaying the Mayan side of Christianity and as a result the natives are not happy or comfortable with him.

From the central plaza we headed to the boat docks, walking through the town, in the rain. We visited a cooperative embroidery shop – where Juanita was looking to (and did) buy a “corte”, the skirt of the traditional dress here in Guatemala. (The rest of us found things we liked too – the embroidery was exquisite).

By now, we are all in our rain ponchos and under umbrellas, and we return to Nancy for a wet and cold ride home. It sounds awful but it was really pretty fun – we laughed and joked the entire trip and before we knew it we were back in the Posada de Don Rodrigo here in Panajachel, tired and wet and happy.

A brief “happy room” break and everyone but me went to the museum that is here in the hotel. I had already seen it and was so pooped I was hoping to take a nap. Apparently I have been wise to avoid coffee after meals for the last 20 years. I couldn’t even get to the sleepy stage (Like now. It’s already 11:20pm and I am still typing away.) Finally I just got up and started doing things to keep me busy until Joanne came to pick us up for dinner. We met up with Fran and John in the lobby and the 5 of us walked all the way up Main Street to a restaurant called “La Casa Blanca”. Vinicio met us for dinner but he arrived late, as we were ordering. Still for some reason, he was served first…go figure. We all managed to eat despite our late lunch and we enjoyed our Gallos and each other’s company. We couldn’t exactly enjoy each other’s conversation, as Vinicio gave us another of his monologues during dinner. It was an interesting story about how he had to cast 150 Mayan natives for a movie and take them to Canada for a month, but I realized on the walk home that we had not been able to talk to each other at all during the meal, and that was a bit tiresome. We’ll probably limit meals with him to those in our schedule from here out.

Once again, as soon as we got to the hotel, everyone was off to bed. We checked on our kids via email first. They’re fine and our cat (who was injured right before we left) seems to be getting better though she has another appointment at the vet for Thursday. The boys leave Friday for Wisconsin and we won’t get home until the following Wednesday, so I am a little worried about her.

May 19, 2009
Top

The Road Back to Antigua

Solola Guatemala

This morning we got up early again, though not as early as other mornings, and went out to watch the sun rise. We had breakfast on the upper terrace, outside, just enjoying the volcanoes in the sunshine.

We checked out of our hotel in Panajachel at about 9:00am and began a slow trip back to Antigua. Just near the summit of the mountains surrounding the lake, we were able to get out of our little bus and take some pictures. It is so beautiful! It is impossible to tire of looking at it.

The trip into Solola took less than a half hour. It was when we got there that I discovered that Marchall is ill. What he has and what to do about it will be the speculation of the day – everyone has an opinion! For certain, he feels rotten. He had to stay with the bus, and Vinicio took us into the central plaza of the town. The market is all around the central plaza and into the side streets. It is very, very colorful! The day is beautiful, so after a short history lesson and explanation from Vinicio, we’re off on our own through the market.

I am not really shopping today. Not really. I am trying to take pictures of the natives. Even the men here are in native dress and it is fascinating to look at all the varieties of cloth and colors. I am “shooting from the hip” as we say. My camera is around my neck and I rest my folded arms over it. Set on automatic, I just turn to face whatever I want to photograph and push the button. Sometimes I get feet and sometimes the tops of heads, but quite often I can get people just doing what the do in the market and they are not aware that I am photographing them.

When I do buy something, I ask the seller to pose for me, and this way I get some of the biggest smiles. I always tell them I like to remember the people I buy from and whenever I can I show them the picture I take. It is really fun. The people in Guatemala are very friendly and open when you show them the same friendliness and openness. It is so hard not to fall in love with this country.

After the market, we made another shortish hop to the ruins at Iximché, a post-classical Mayan site (Tikal is pre-classical). The site is relatively small – 4 plazas and not huge ones – but there are also two ball courts and the site is preserved in such a way that you can almost feel as if you had stumbled on it – just like this – when it was discovered.

Interestingly, there were Mayan families at the site performing rituals at the last altar area – what historically had been an area of spiritual retreat and ceremonies for the spiritual leaders themselves. When we arrived, two families were preparing alters for offerings, and evidence of earlier ceremonies conducted today were marked by still smoking altars and charred chicken bones.

The place was quite special, and for me, worth a side-trip to see.

After Iximché, we stopped at the same rest stop we visited on the way to Panajachel, but this time for lunch. The food was good and filling, and after that we were on our way back to Antigua in the longest part of the trip which might have been an hour. I think I was sleeping. I know I was relaxed and happy and before I knew it we were back at the hotel.

Marshall is really under the weather and we are all concerned about him. He’s worried he’s being a burden, which he isn’t at all. We just wish he could feel better.

Joanne, Gerry, Fran, Juanita, John and I went out looking for a light dinner at a pizza place I went to with the Wayland kids. We went out with just a vague idea of where it might be (and my sense of direction is notoriously bad!). We did stop and ask someone on the street – and so got the name “Queso y Vino” but alas it was closed for “descanso” . Instead we went to a place across the street called “Tapas y Vinos” (close enough?) and had beer and tapas. The name was a bit misleading, but there were a couple of tapas on the menu – so those are the ones we ate. No one was very hungry and it turned out to be a perfect, light dinner.

May 20, 2009
Top

Antiques in Antigua

Antigua, Guatemala

(The antiques of this title are the members of our group...)

This morning, finally, I slept until a decent hour! All the way until 6:20! Gerry was awake and working on the computer as I opened my eyes. Boy did I feel rested. I got up and showered, waiting to use the computer to download my pictures and check my email.
Breakfast, for some reason, found us all cheerful and laughing. Poor Marshall is still not well and he couldn’t believe we could laugh so much so early in the morning.

By 9:00, Vinicio was here to pick us up for our walking tour. We got off to a pretty slow start, in the Parque Central, where we got a brief look at the buildings surrounding the plaza. John and Fran needed to change money and apparently the line in the bank was pretty long. But finally we’re off and running, and we started with a visit to the cathedral. The cathedral is odd because it was basically destroyed by The Big Earthquake of 1773 – the one that destroyed most of Antigua and caused the city to be evacuated and abandoned. Only the first chapel on the right of the main doorway remained standing and it is the present day church.

We wound our way through the church and exited into a "placita" at the side entrance of the original building. This is the entrance to the ruins. I visited these ruins on my own the first time I came to Antigua and found them so beautiful. My memory was accurate – it is still very evocative. There is less construction going on now than then, so some things were easier to see. I had brilliant blue skies for both visits, so I took many of the same pictures – the recreated arches soaring roofless to reveal that sky.

We visited the catacombs which are empty, and the chapel just under where the original altar was – which to this day is still a place that Mayans leave lit colored candles.

After the cathedral we headed out toward the St Francis the Great church (The church is “great” as in big. It is the same St. Francis.) Not a lot remains of the church, and the ruins are vast and interesting. On my previous trip I explored the ruins alone – seeing lots of interesting birds and plants. This time we concentrated more on the Hermano Pedro parts of the church. There is a hallway of miracles filled with plaques and thank you gifts from people who have been cured or helped by Hermano Pedro; a display of artifacts from his life; and in another location, the new tomb (he’s been moved around a lot.) He was declared a saint in 2002. In the area of the new tomb there are many places to pray, and prayers in many languages.

From San Francisco we walked toward the church and convent of Santa Clara. We didn’t go in. Just outside though is a lovely plaza with the “Union” or the public washing place at one end. Apparently it is still used today, though we did not see any evidence of recent use. It has a large fountain and then across the rear, under the cover of a roof, there are various washing stations (think laundry). All around the edges of the plaza were people selling food for "meriendas". Customers were few – either it was not yet the merienda moment or it had already passed. (A merienda is a mid-morning snack.)

We walked in the direction of Meson Panza Verde, because Gerry and I want to try to get some thumbergia seeds before we go home and we were told they could be purchased there. By now we were wandering back close to the main square and so went to the Café de la Condessa for lunch. I realized when we were leaving that that was the first place we took the Wayland kids for dinner two years ago.

After lunch, which was mercifully light, we headed up to the arch of Santa Catalina, the connection between the church and cloister for these cloistered nuns. It is the symbol of Antigua and very often photographed, with good reason. Our weather hasn’t been perfect for views of the volcanoes from Antigua, but if you’re lucky you can get some stunning photos of the arch and the volcano or the arch and the La Merced church – which was our next stop.

We did not visit the interior of La Merced – the façade is definitely the highlight. Vinicio pointed out the Mayan symbols all over the front of the church – and again, we are amazed that Christianity allowed such syncretism.

We did visit the ruins of the convent next door. The fountain is magnificent, and from the upper level I could show Gerry the school I attended 2 years ago as its grounds are right in the shadow of the ruins.

Now we’re off to visit the jade factory – an excuse to buy jade, but nevertheless an interesting and informative tour of the factory to learn how jade is mined and worked. I had plan to purchase a piece and I found something I really liked. The jeweler adjusted the neck piece for me as it was a little too big for my bird (complete with wattles) neck.

By now it was thundering and raining lightly – fortunately we were close to our hotel (one block away) and we just headed back to rest and recharge.

When I was here two years ago, I was struck by how friendly everyone is – not just the Guatemalans. Friendliness seems to be infectious – or Guatemala just attracts a certain type of person, because both times, I have met really interesting people in my hotels. This trip is no exception. Besides our investigator friend from NY who checks out people in order to assign a security clearance, there are two couples, friends, who met sailing. One couple lives on a sailboat in Panama and the other seems to dock their sail boat in Rio Dulce (?). I wasn’t quite sure but from the description that would be plausible. There is another couple here from New Mexico. In the evenings, we all seem to gravitate out of our rooms onto the veranda that surrounds the courtyard, and there we get into all kinds of interesting conversations. It is really an active scene on an evening when it is raining, as it is tonight.

Also because of the rain, we didn’t go far tonight for dinner- just basically to the establishment next door. It is a large house like the hotel is, but there are different businesses inside including a restaurant (which was awful). We were really hungry though because our lunch was so light – so we ate – but all vowed to never return and to tell 9 others, too.

May 21, 2009
Top

Skipping along the Skirt of Agua

Antigua, Guatemala

The early morning looked like we were in for rain, but actually it warmed up as soon as the sun broke from the clouds and we had our first real t-shirt only day. After breakfast, Vinicio and Antonio picked us up and took us for a tour of the villages at the base of Volcan Agua. This is where the Spaniards erected their first capital (Ciudad Vieja) which was destroyed by a flood (Agua was filled with water back then). There are other little towns on the skirts of the volcano:

In the first town, the cathedral was under restoration, so we stopped a moment in the fountain square in front of the church. From there, we had a beautiful view of Antigua way down the valley on front of us.

The second town was San Pedro del Obispo. Today, by the way, is the Feast of the Ascension so there are masses in the cathedrals. In the first town we visited there were fireworks set up in the plaza…and the recently reopened and restored cathedral was full of worshippers. The interior of the church was lovely – decorated with lots of hanging cloth, and the light inside was a muted orange.

The fireworks were something to see. LOUD! There were these concussion things that just made noise – once when shot out of the tube on the ground and again, even louder, when they were up in the air. Then there was also a curious round, frame structure on a pole. The fireworks were attached all around it, and inside there were rockets with long sticks. When the thing was lit, it spun around as the firecrackers on the sides went off and then the rockets shot up into the air. Lots of smoke! I have pictures which show it only slightly better that I can describe it. The other highlight in this town was the public washing area, which we saw in use. There were probably a dozen women around the huge tank doing laundry and chatting. It really looked like hard work, no matter how romantically you describe it as a social occasion for the women of the town to gossip…

The third town we visited was Ciudad Viejo. There was also a mass in progress, and the fireworks set up in the plaza, but we didn’t get to stay and see it again (prepared to take pictures this time) because it was too early in the mass. The cathedral was not as lovely inside as the first one we saw, but the exterior was white and yellow which, against the blue sky, was very pretty. It was the only building that remained standing after the flood. Apparently the governor’s wife had every building in the town painted black, in mourning for her husband who had died two months earlier, except the cathedral. When the flood came it was the only building that was untouched. Coincidence? Local people think not.

We also saw a portion of the chapel from the governor’s residence where his wife and court all died in the flood. The grounds of the chapel ruin are surrounded by a municipal school and the municipal buildings. We saw lots of school kids, of all ages, at play. It was a happy and lively scene around that gloomy ruin.

Our forth stop was at an organic macadamia nut farm (Valhalla). It is an interesting (if not odd) American fellow who runs it. He is pretty passionate about organic farming and is working to establish a sustainable crop for the natives who currently rely on slash and burn farming. In other places, we have seen efforts to prevent the chopping down of trees for both heating and cooking.

At the farm, we got to see the processing of the nuts – all done in such a way that a farmer could duplicate the process without a lot of chemicals or electricity. We got to taste the nuts, which were delicious, and true to the hype, quite a bit different from the regular old nuts we taste all the time. Macadamia nuts are grown in Guatemala on large farms for mass consumption, with non-organic methods, too, but they are not a native crop of the country.

We were treated (for a tip) to a facial with macadamia nut oil and cream and we, naturally, could buy at the gift shop.

Our last stop was another village, San Antonio Aguas Calientes,with a crafts market and a pretty town square. I got some essential shopping done – gifts for the kids and the “girls” in the office.

Then it was back to the hotel (today was a half day tour) where we met Sara, a friend from San Juan who now lives in Guatemala City. We all went to lunch at Meson Panza Verde, her favorite restaurant and hotel in Antigua. You can see why when you walk in. Although the building is not old, it was built in the old style and looks as if it were. We had a delicious lunch in the restaurant – very intimate and romantic with various types of settings to choose from. The food was wonderful.

By the way, Marshall is better today and was able to join us on our excursions to the villages during the morning. He was also able to walk from the hotel to the restaurant, which isn’t an insignificant distance over those cobblestones. But after lunch, he and Juanita took Sara up on her offer to have her drivers drop them off at the hotel so they wouldn’t have to walk back. It was pretty toasty under that sun, too.
Their point of departure was a café and "vivero" – a plant store – just about a block further from the restaurant. Gerry and I were interested in going there to find out if we could get seeds for the Thumbergia (we couldn’t). The place was beautiful with flowers and we did enjoy looking at all the plants – many of the same ones we have in Puerto Rico.

Fran, Joanne, John, Gerry and I walked slowly back to the hotel, with a brief stop in the shops around the Parque Central to buy a little gift for Anita and Mike, to whose house we will go for cocktails tomorrow night in Guatemala City. We purchased a box made of hand-made paper – something we hope they will enjoy since it is quite different from everything else we are tempted to buy here.

John, Gerry and Fran then headed to the hotel and Joanne and I wandered in and out of shops along our street. I was looking for a blouse for Maria de los Angeles, the daughter of a friend, who had requested I try to find something for her to give her daughter since they could not come on the trip. Maria was adopted from Guatemala and her mother encourages her ties to her native country.

After a short stop at the hotel, Gerry and I went next door (where the awful restaurant is) to call our kids. We spent about 40 minutes on the phone catching up with them on the cat and their trip to Wisconsin (they leave tomorrow). I didn’t realize how much I missed them until I heard their voices.

When we got back to the hotel again, Joanne and I went to her room to do some emailing about our social plans. Juanita came over too and we were working out the tips, when the ground began to shake! At first it didn’t feel like much more than a truck rumbling by, but when it didn’t stop (and there was no sound of a truck) we started to laugh at the rocking. Joanne was face down on her bed an didn’t feel it so she thought Juanita and I were crazy. Then, a major shake! We all ran outside as did everyone else in the hotel. Outside is really into the courtyard, not out onto the street. We were all pretty amazed and laughing but wary of another tremor…which didn’t come. (5.2 magnitude)

Then, another dinner close to the hotel, as it is raining tonight too…this time in the bakery a couple of doors down – the one with the torturous smell of freshly baked bread! It was a light dinner – since we had had such a big lunch with Sara.

Then, as usual, early to bed. Tomorrow we head to Guatemala City for the day, and Saturday we’re up really early (hasn’t been a problem for me) to fly to Peten.

May 22, 2009
Top

In the Big City

Guatemala City, Guatemala

We’re up early again, packed and ready to go, so we linger over our last breakfast at the Hotel Aurora. We’ve been switching tables each morning, today surprising the people who have always sat at this one! (Why are we such creatures of habit anyway?) All paid up and in the van, we’re on our way to Guatemala City. It is just Antonio with us this morning as we are meeting Vinicio in Guatemala City (he lives there). It was nice to have just Antonio – The fellow can talk (of course with Vinicio around no one can get a word in edgewise!) and he’s very friendly and informed.

We pick up Vinicio at his father’s house (the resemblance is obvious) and begin our tour for the day. There is something going on down in Zone 1 so Vinicio is uncertain if we will be able to visit the Zone 1 sights.

(A prominent lawyer was murdered just a day or so before our trip began. He was investigating the murders of two other people and discovered links to the president of Guatemala and his wife. He created a video tape with all that he had found out and gave it to someone with instructions to release it if he was killed. As a result, the country is split between those who support the president (basically the poor) and those who don’t (the rich). There have been demonstrations in Guatemala City every day – some people are forced to attend rallies supporting the president. There may be such a rally today.)

Our first stop is to see a relief map of Guatemala. There are viewing towers from which you can get up above it and look down. The scale is a little screwy making the mountains, and especially the volcanoes, taller than they really are. The effect is dramatic though and, for that, quite interesting. It was fun to walk around the map and get a sense of the geography around Central America and the topography of Guatemala.

Next, we go to the market. This one is unusual because it is on three levels, underground. Parking is the ground level and you walk down stairs positioned on all four sides to get into the market. Gerry and I took off to explore. This is not a native market, but a big city market for residents: Food, clothing and special items like floral arranging supplies!

From the market, we head to Zone 1. Apparently there is nothing going on there now to prevent our sight-seeing. Naturally we visit the cathedral! The cathedral faces out onto a large plaza with a big fountain in the center. There are stately government buildings and residential high rises around the square. We see a man herding goats through the square…they were quite well-behaved, but it certainly fits my criteria for a 3rd world country, i.e. barnyard animals in the city. (Puerto Rico qualifies, too!) Apparently, if you are in need of household help, you come to this square on Sunday, the maids' day off, when all the household workers in the city meet in the plaza.

The only unfortunate incident of our trip occurred in the plaza. Joanne had her necklace ripped off her neck. Gerry and Vinicio gave chase, but the thief disappeared into the maze of corridors and buildings around the square. Joanne was bereft, but admitted she had become complacent about wearing the necklace while we were in safe places like Antigua and Panajachel. As I usually the case, the necklace had far more sentimental value to Joanne than monetary value to the thief.

A brief “happy room break” and we’re on our way to a restaurant called “Cacao” for a lunch of typical Guatemala food. It was very, very good but we are just not used to eating a big heavy meal in the middle of the day, and certainly I could not finish my huge serving of “pepián” though I sincerely wanted to!

After lunch, (we ate a little later than we wanted to), we went to see the two museums that are on the Fernando Marroquín University campus, Ixchel and Popol Vuh. Ixchel is the museum of textiles and we’re fascinated, especially by an exhibit of paintings by Carmen Pettersen who did a whole series on the native dress of all the peoples of Guatemala. Some of the garments she painted were actually in the exhibit. Popol Vuh is a museum of ancient Mayan artifacts – mostly ceramic. Also very interesting, but we really didn’t have sufficient time to get the most out of it.

By this point, we’re anxious to get the hotel and check in – we have a evening appointment at 5:00 and everyone wants to get cleaned up and settled in before we go.

After a hectic day touring (and Gerry worrying about being on time for the evening's activities), we met in the lobby of the Biltmore Express to be taken for cocktails at Ani and Mike’s (Joanne’s friends with whom she stayed at the beginning of the trip.) Since the bus to pick us up was late, we actually got a little bit of breathing time! The evening was very nice – everyone was relaxed. The views from the 12th floor of the condominium were exceptional even with the haze and clouds we have encountered everywhere during this the beginning of the rainy season. Sara arrived in time for the cocktails as did Ani’s sister, Ines. Ines and Sara actually knew each other – what a surprise! For dinner we went just a little way to a very nice restaurant(of which, unfortunately, I cannot remember the name) where we sat in two tables of six for a nice Italian dinner. Sara’s husband, Bill, showed up just before our food was served. It was so nice to see him again – It has been a year and a half since I last saw him in PR just before they moved to Guatemala.

Back at the hotel, I made sure we were packed for our early wake up in the morning and Gerry used the internet to get a hold of the kids (finally).

May 23, 2009
Top

Un Mundo Perdido

Tikal Ruins, Guatemala

Marshall, Juanita, Gerry and I leave for the airport at 5 am via taxi. We decided to take a taxi because we were told that we needed to be at the airport an hour and a half before our 6:30 flight. We knew that leaving at 5:00 on the shuttle (which had to make other stops and may or may not leave on time) was going to be a huge cause for stress, so we paid all of $8 and took a cab. We were through ticketing and security with no glitches and then sat and waited for our flight. In retrospect, the shuttle at 5:00, late or not, would probably have been fine. Everyone else on our flight got to the gate a good 45 minutes later.

Unfortunately the entire flight was cloudy or hazy so couldn’t see anything from the air until we got to Flores. As we were descending, we had a beautiful view of city of Flores out on the island in the lake. The cathedral looks so big compared to everything else, but probably because it is at the top of a hill.

We find our guide in the airport (and find out later that he is a son of founders of the Jungle Lodge. We drive around the Lake Petén Itzá and stop for a good look at it from El Remate. We continue on to the park (Tikal is in a national park) and to the lodge and check in. We get 15 minutes to drop off our luggage and then meet for our tour of Tikal.

It is very hot here, but I am still thinking that it is no match for Puerto Rico, until I start to sweat. Who said you can’t wear shorts in Guatemala? You don’t need to in the highlands where it is cool (and often cooler than you think it should be given the distance from the equator. But here, in Tikal, shorts and tank tops are just plain practical! Just put on mosquito spray and go for it. This became more and more apparent to me as each day we were here it got hotter and hotter.

Our tour is walking. With the hotel right in the park, it is just a hop to the entrance. Our guide is very good and quite interesting. He explained the Mayan system of mathematics and their calendar. Fortunately, Vinicio had given us an introduction to both. I think it is pretty complicated to grasp on the first telling. He also spoke to us about the causes of the collapse of Tikal, referring to Jared Diamond’s book “Collapse” which I had read and which is sold here in the bookshops. All around us is a symphony of jungle sounds, both insects and birds. There is one particular bird who sounds as if it should be a monkey (and later we hear a monkey that sounds like a tiger!).

We are energetic today (and given that it is the coolest of the three days we’re here that is a good thing) and we climb temples II and IV. Temple IV is the highest, but the climb is not so tough – the steps are wide and no steeper than a household staircase. The view is to the “grand plaza” below us where we have just witnessed a modern Mayan ceremony, complete with smoky black fire and kneeling, praying families. We can also see the classic view: Mayan temples protruding up through the dense jungle foliage. Our ride back to the Jungle Lodge was quite an experience…terribly bad and bumpy roads,on slippery, open jeep seats. I banged my shin twice before I finally got myself anchored in place (I was in the middle so had only the seat in front of me to hang on to). Lunch was included in the tour price (but it was not very good). In this heat, there is only one logical thing to do after lunch: Nap.

About 4:45 Gerry and I head back to the archeological site. Our recommended evening walk includes “Grupo G”, Temple 5 and “Mundo Perdido”, all different areas of the Tikal site from those we saw in the morning. Knowing what we know now, we would have aborted the walk and climbed Temple 5 right when we got there to watch the sun set, but we didn’t because we wanted to see as much as we could. So we pressed on to Mundo Perdido. When Gerry started to hear tigers roaring in the jungle, he got spooked! “We have to go back!” As it turned out, the sounds of the roaring tigers followed us for a while and we finally, correctly, concluded that what we were hearing howler monkeys! They really do sound like roaring tigers (which of course, do not exist in the jungle of Tikal). Between the howler monkeys, the birds and the insects there is quite a symphony (cacophony) in the evening! Before dinner, we take our second showers for the day. Dinner is included in our room rate and again the food disappointing. Everyone is wrung out from the heat, so we’re even earlier to bed than usual

May 24, 2009
Top

From Ruins to the Beach

Tikal Ruins, Guatemala

Gerry and I wake up at 5:15am for jungle walk at 5:45. We have coffee with Antonio, another one of the brothers who own the hotel, the sons of the original owners. Unfortunately, we get a late start because we have to wait for the others from our group, one of whom is late. Our group includes a couple from London and a young man from Scotland.

We really enjoy the tour though it is not what we were sold, which was a wildlife and flora tour. We re-walk areas that we have already covered – Group G, Temple 5, Mundo Perdido and Temple 4. We climb temple 5 – very steep!!! And the view from the top is again – just a bit too high to be interesting – the accomplishment is in the climb.

Antonio gives us more information on the Maya and lots of interesting information about the actual archeological work done at the site back in the 50s and 60s, when he was a boy growing up at the lodge. He knew lots of short cuts through the jungle. We went out too late for dawn photos but we had good light almost until the end. We got some glimpses of birds through the foliage, but basically there were no nature shots.

We had breakfast back at the hotel with Juanita and Marshall. Gerry needed a rest (I think it is the heat and the sweating that really drains you.). I walk around the grounds to try to get some photos, and I am somewhat successful with a hummingbird and a couple of really strange looking crested lizards. Of course, there are plenty of beautiful flowers, too.

About 11:00am, I wake Gerry up and insist he accompany me back to the site. My plan is to head toward Temple 6. It isn’t included on any of the tours, so I guess there isn’t much to see there, but I am thinking that if no one goes there, perhaps we’ll see wildlife. Along the way we happen upon a very extensive leaf cutter anthill. There are at least two streams of ants carrying leaves in, and one area where it looks like they are carrying some sort of reddish particles out. Our morning guide told us that the ants take the leaves into the hill and compost them to grow the mushrooms they use for food. Perhaps the reddish particles are some sort of used up compost that they no longer need. The path is a good one, but it is fairly deserted. We only see four other people during the entire walk and visit to the temple.

With a little patience I finally get some great shots of spider monkeys. There was one particular fellow who was grunting and growling up in the trees and then practically posed for me as he ate, hanging from his tail. It was a spectacle worth the walk and the heat. Other animals we have seen include various birds (Juanita got a great picture of a toucan – but I haven’t seen a one), the coatimundi (lots of them) and twice a little bush pig-like animal that I need to look up the name of. We walk back to the hotel get cleaned up and check out.

Since the food at the hotel is so mediocre, we walk down to the visitors’ center area and have lunch at the Comedor Tikal. The place is very simple and I enjoy looking at the photos of the archeologists who worked the site early on. I’d like to read more about that. It would probably make a good book!

At 2:30 we catch our ride to Flores. There is lots of lively conversation in the bus – fueled of course by Gerry. Our companions are all known to us: George and Tom from the ride out to Tikal, Jennifer and Mary from our first morning’s tour. We apparently left without two guys, who caught up to us along the way (by truck - I can just imagine you thinking they came running behind us dragging their suitcases!).

We dropped four of the passengers off at the airport, then drive to our hotel, Isla de Flores, also owned by the same group as the Jungle Lodge. The hotel is very clean and we’re ready for a rest. Hallelujah! AC! Blissfully cooler, we sleep. About 5:00pm we meet Marshall and Juanita in the lobby and head out to explore our newest town.

It is still hot though it is past 5:00pm. We head down the hill from the hotel to the first cross street and then west toward the lake and the sunset. We locate our dinner destination (Capitán Tortuga) and then walk along the beach for awhile. The town reminds us of Rincón, in Puerto Rico. Very laid back. It’s a typical beach town. It is also really hot in the sun. Lots of people are swimming. I so wish I were too! Finally, common sense prevails and we decide to get out of the sun and we head back into the maze of streets where we hope to find some shade and a bit cooler temperatures. Many of the streets are completely torn up – apparently for new sewers and storm drains and paving. The good thing – no traffic! We walk up to the plaza. The plaza and the church are on top of a hill that is the island. The plaza isn’t too interesting. The people in it far more so: Like any beach town, there are hippies.

From the plaza we walk down the other side of the hill towards the lake again. This would be the east side – so no sun and a nice breeze that cools at least when it touches your skin. We sit along the new “boardwalk” (though it is cement) and just watch the people who are there, some are tourists, many are in family groups. When we can stand it no more and have also seen basically everything there is to see on a Sunday night, we go to Capitán Tortuga’s for dinner via a walk around the southern part of the island. By the time we get back to the west side – the sun is setting and we are treated to a gorgeous sunset as we sip our "limonadas con soda y ron"! Still hot, though cooling off slightly – our talk centers on how thankful we are that the hotel has air conditioning. We share "parrilladas guatemaltecas" – several different grilled meats with rice and "frijoles".

I stay up to edit my pictures, but by 9:30am we’re asleep again. I discovered that my pjs are missing and conclude that I must have left them in the bedclothes at the Jungle Lodge. I had taken them out to wear but it was so hot (no air conditioning there) I ended up sleeping in just my underwear. Not having checked the bedclothes before I left the room, I guess that is where the hotel maids found them. And concluding they were rags (they were very old, threadbare and soft) they are probably working away today cleaning something, someplace – a whole new life in Guatemala.

May 25, 2009
Top

Ixpanpajul and Lago Peten Itza

Flores, Guatemala

“Today we are off to Ixpanpajul, a private nature reserve about 10 kilometers from here where we plan to walk through the jungle on suspension bridges. We’re hoping to see lots of wildlife.” That’s what I would have written if I were writing this before we went. Since I am writing it the day after I can tell you it was an adventure – but not because of the wildlife.

The hotel arranged our transportation to the park, and then dropped us off, planning to come back and get us about 12:30pm (the drop off was at about 9:15). Oh, plenty of time – maybe too much we’re thinking… Well, it wasn’t too much. The walk was quite strenuous…walking across the suspended bridges was a breeze compared to hiking up the mountains and down the mountains on very rocky and uneven trails. There were steps, but I am not sure if it made things easier or worse.

We didn’t see any animals, which was the big disappointment for me. We could hear plenty of birds and insects, but we saw nary a one. The vegetation was very thick in most places, but even the shade didn’t mitigate the heat very much and we stopped as often to cool down as we did to rest. When we finally arrived at the “mirador” where there was nothing but views and warm bottled water, we decided that Marshall and Juanita would take a truck back to the base. I wanted to continue since it was all downhill from there and I still had hopes of seeing something. Gerry accompanied me. Juanita and Marshall probably would have been better off staying with us as they had to descend a leaf covered trail that was quite treacherous to get to the pick-up point, and we had one last suspension bridge and then steps down, down, down to a nice road that is used for those who opt to go through on horseback. We saw almost no wildlife – just a pair of woodpeckers and a horse in a field.

Back at the main entrance, Marshall, Juanita and Gerry each had a beer and we laughed at the monkey who was in the dining room up on the rafters. Apparently, he is well-known to the people who work there and is well-known for being misbehaved. He lives on a little island about 100 yards from the visitors’ center, and was chased back there and assisted across the moat with a wooden plank bridge that had obviously been used many times before for the same purpose. Both monkey and employee seemed to know the drill by heart!

Back in civilization, we cleaned up and went to Capitan Tortuga for lunch – pizzas and beer! Then it was naptime (need I say again that the heat here is incredibly draining!). Juanita took off for an adventure of her own to have her hair done is Santa Elena via tuk-tuk! The hairdresser actually came to Flores via tuk-tuk to pick her up! All in all, tuk-tuks included, she spent less than $7. Can you beat that?

Our evening’s entertainment involved a bottle of wine and a boat ride on the lake at sunset. Sound nice? It was. Our boat driver was very informative and we really enjoyed the sightseeing around the lake. The water was very calm and the air out on the lake was cooler (note: not cool) and refreshing. The driver dropped us off mid-bridge and we walked to the Santa Elena side to try Pollo Campero (the local version of KFC – now in 28 countries!) I hate to say it, but it was one of the best meals we have had in Guatemala – the food here has not been very good (and I remember that from my first trip here too). We have had really good food, but always in very exclusive restaurants, ie Casa Santa Domingo and Meson Panza Verde in Antigua.

After Pollo Campero we walked back across the bridge to Flores, stopping in the middle to get Ice Cream from Sarita – purported to be great ice cream. It was! But it melted so fast in the heat, that we really had to eat it fast! Once again an early evening, Marshall and Juanita are leaving at 7:00 in the morning.

May 26, 2009
Top

Wrung Out and Hung Up to Dry

Flores, Guatemala

Today it is so hot, that the residents of Flores are complaining! It is in the high 90s and it is impossible to even be outside! We try - we really do!

Gerry and I got up to have breakfast and see Juanita and Marshall off to the airport. Our flight is this afternoon so we have the morning to kill. Our original plan was to visit the zoologico on the other side of the lake, but Gerry is losing steam fast. We took a walk while it was still relatively cool, keeping to the shade, and then went to the internet café to see what is up with the kids. No news from Oscar still so Gerry woke him up with a phone call.

We need to get back in the ac, so I write in the journal and edit pictures for Facebook while Gerry snoozes.

We need to get back in the ac, so I write in the journal and edit pictures for Facebook while Gerry snoozes.

I get a little itchy to do something, and mistaking the time on my computer I wake Gerry up and we shower and dress for the day. Once out on the street I realize it is only 10 and not 11! We've checked out of the hotel. My idea was a bit of last minute shopping and a leisurely lunch before our shuttle to the airport, but rather than 1 hour to kill we have 2.

In retrospect, I should have pushed for the zoologico! We try, we really try, to do some shopping. We stay in the shade and stand, seemingly to examine merchandise in front of store fans, but it is just too hot to live. We find a hotel (the one where the Peten Rotary meets) and sit down in the lobby restaurant for a long, and early lunch.

Two of my favorite limonadas con soda later and a light lunch, we're back out on the street. We buy the few things we need and then decide to go sit in the hotel lobby and wait for the shuttle.

Just to prove there is a god who loves us, the young women at the hotel desk tells us that our room has not been cleaned yet and we can go back upstairs to the air conditioning for at 45 minutes! Halleluja! You can't imagine what good news that was!

We napped - I tell you the heat had us so energy-less we could have napped on the floor of the lobby! And then, we relinquished the air conditioning, and went back down to the lobby.

We thought we had died and gone to heaven when the shuttle came for us a half hour early and we boarded it (thankfully air conditioned) salivating over the prospect of waiting for the flight in the comfort of an air conditioned airport terminal.

It wasn’t to be. The airport in Flores is not air conditioned, and we joined the airport employees sweating on a bench in front of a fan that blew air over us, albeit hot air.

Finally we board our flight (the plane is air conditioned –woohoo!) and fly back to cool Guatemala City – where everyone there is complaining about the heat too! Yes, it was hot there too – for there – but it was still a relief from the heat of the lowlands! We cleaned up again and Sara’s drivers came t pick us up to take us to her house for dinner.

Now it is cool, and I put on my long sleeves! Sara’s house is beautiful. It is simply laid out, and she has it beautifully decorated with local crafts, art and textiles. The house they rented in Puerto Rico was furnished, and they had decided not to bring their furniture from their house in Lake Forest to Guatemala, so Sara had bought all new furniture for this house and had it moved by Walmart (Bill’s employer). The house was not crammed with furniture as a result – adding to the feeling of airiness and simplicity I found so inviting.

She gave us a tour of her garden. It is so great to be an eccentric in a foreign country! You can get away with it just because you are a foreigner! Sara is growing coffee, corn, pineapples squash and more in her Guatemala City yard. Everyone in the household, maids, drivers and the gardener himself, are involved in this project and it bears “fruit”.

We have a lovely delicious dinner of garbanzos and chicken, with a fresh salad I don’t think twice about eating. Then, the drivers are waiting to go home, and we don’t want to keep them to late. We say goodbye to Sara, and basically to Guatemala, for this trip.

May 27, 2009
Top

Home again, home again, jiggety-jig

San Juan, Puerto Rico

We're up early and on the 6:00am shuttle to the airport. Today our flight is "late" - it is t 8:30 am! We meet a really nice couple in the shuttle - on their way to Minnesota for the summer, as they live in Rio Dulce.

Our flight to Miami was uneventful, but the Miami airport has another long, long walk to immigration and baggage claim. I guess physically challenged people are not really welcomed to travel internationally. e're stuck in baggage claim for about 45 minutes. he ramp is closed because of a thunderstorm and the luggage cannot be offloaded from the plane. Our 2 1/2 hour connection time is rapidly being eaten up!

Finally we're through customs. We repack - the rum and whiskey Gerry bought in the duty-free in Guatemala has to go into the checked luggage for the remainder of the trip.

Unfortunately, American has screwed up our upgrade request again, and Gerry is on the brink of a fight with the gate agent about it. Oh well, everyone on the plane arrives at the same place at the same time and it is only a 2 hour flight. We're home by 7:00pm!

And so it ends, our Guatemalan adventure. I remain as in love with the country as I was after the first trip. Gerry is a convert (I had so hoped he would love it too!) and we're planning to return.

Would we do anything differently?

For one, we would not go in May. May was the only time we could schedule this trip, and it was in no way a mistake, but one of the real experiences for me on my first trip to Guatemala was the absolute awe I felt when I saw all those volcanoes. That was missing from this trip. Because of the season, the volcanoes were shrouded with haze and clouds for all but one days in Antigua and the very early mornings on Lago de Atitlan.

Ideally, our next trip will be much longer. I would love to visit every single town around Lago de Atitlan and be able to enjoy the sunrise over the lake to my heart's content. I'd also like to visit the highlands around Quetzaltenango, and believe it or not, I'd visit Tikal again (Maybe in our winter months it will be manageable temperature-wise). Tikal deserves more time, and more time especially to be there early in the morning and late in the evenings.

Although many of my friends are now of a mind to seee everything in the world before they're too old to enjoy traveling, I have always enjoyed revisiting places I have been, delving a little deeper each time into the culture and the life...I cannot wait to go back to Guatemala!

1-5 of 30 imagesMy Travel Photo Album


Share