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Llama Llama Ding Dong!

By : DeAnn Phillips
Trip Begins September 18, 2008
Trip Ends September 27, 2008

My husband and I took the Cachiccata Trek and it was amazing! We loved everything about this trip: Cusco, the Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, the 3-day trek and Machu Picchu. We fell in love with the mountains, the people and yes, even the llamas!
See my photos : Llama-Llama Ding Dong!

Want to go? Cachiccata Trek

I went to: Peru
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September 18, 2008
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We're Going to Peru!

Lima, Peru

Our flight left Detroit on time at 11:47 AM. We had a layover in Houston, where we ate giant soft pretzels and pizza – dinner of champions. And, of course, a visit to any airport would not be complete without a Starbucks latte for Simon. Our flight to Lima arrived on time at 10:15 PM. We met Boris after a smooth trip through immigration and were on our way.
The traffic was crazy and there were tons of people out. The traffic is a bit like Rome, but without the polite and careful drivers. We were glad to be in the car with Boris. He is a good driver!
We arrived at our hotel at 11:30 PM and were off to sleep…zzzzz…

September 19, 2008
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Our first day in Cusco

Cusco, Peru

We started the day with breakfast at the hotel and then we were back in the car with Boris and off to the airport for the flight to Cusco. Because Boris is such an avid surfer, he took us by way of the ocean road, where we could check out the waves and the surfers.
We were on our own, with my limited Spanish, at the airport. I was very proud of myself for conversing with the airport attendant, until I realized only one of our bags was getting checked. Oops. That was quickly remedied with some apologetic English on my part. He was very understanding (and fluent in English) and changed the information to check both bags. Whew!
After a windowless flight in the back row of the plane on the way to Cusco, we got checked into our hotel. Then we met our guide, Alex, and he took us on a tour of the city. We visited the food market, marveled at the Incan walls and started to get the feel of the city. The food market was amazing. With the medicinal herbs, all the fruit juices, the aisle of chocolate and the shaman shop, it was very cool. If you are ever in the market for goat testicles, look no further.
We took a quick nap after the tour then went out on the town on our own. We, of course, had to have a drink at the Irish pub in town. Then we walked around the square, checked out the wares of the local vendors and took in the sights. We tried a Pisco Sour at dinner. It definitely has a distinct flavor. Maybe we’ll get used to it by the end of next week. We may even learn to like it. A man in the restaurant ordered cuy which sent all the tourists into a picture taking frenzy (we held ourselves back, as we are too cool for school). According to the man eating it, it tastes like chicken.

September 20, 2008
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Dude, Where's My Oxygen?

Cusco, Peru

It was all going so well. And then altitude sickness struck in the wee hours of the night. It wasn’t pretty and, it lasted most of the day. Simon had a headache, but I had additional symptoms. I’ll put it this way, I will possibly never like Pisco Sours and am so very, very glad I had not eaten cuy! Despite my weakened state, I decided I might only ever be in Peru once and I wasn’t going to let a little sickness stop me. So, we continued our day as scheduled.
We met Alex at 9AM and took a taxi to Sacsayhuaman. The Incan fortress is huge. Some of the individual stones themselves are 300 tons! There was going to be a children’s competition the next day, so they were all practicing their dancing and singing on the grounds as we walked around.
Alex took us to a silver shop where we were shown how they make jewelry. Outside the shop were some Andean women with their alpacas. We were able to pet them (well, I hugged them) and they were so soft! After the hug-fest we visited the White Christ, where the altitude sickness kicked in again. We hailed a taxi and headed back to town. As we sped down a very narrow lane there was a loud banging and scraping noise coming from our very tiny car. The driver got out to inspect the damage. Apparently, something bad had happened to the exhaust system, involving at least one part falling off. The driver didn’t seem overly concerned about it, got back in the car and took us to our destination. Now, that’s what I call customer service!
After an afternoon nap, some Gravol* and Advil, Simon and I were feeling much better. We toured two Cathedrals with Alex and then went off to dinner. We tried Lomo Saltado for the first time – it was delicious!

*I hope the inventor of Gravol is extremely rich and happy somewhere in the world!

September 21, 2008
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The Sacred Valley

Sacred Valley, Peru

We left the big city and half of our luggage behind and headed to Ollantaytambo. We stopped at the Pisac Ruins and had an hour or so hike. The ruins were great, but it was pretty crowded and hot. Bruno, our driver extraordinaire, was waiting with the van and a nice breeze was coming through. We went to the Pisac Market next and were left to our own devices. We wandered through the huge market and ended up a bit turned around. We made it back to the van and headed to Lamay for a picnic lunch.
We continued through the Sacred Valley and stopped to visit the Moray Salt Pans. It looks kind of weird from far away, but is really amazing up close.
Next stop, Ollantaytambo. It is a very quaint little town, which I am sure will grow with continued tourism growth. Hopefully, it will maintain the same atmosphere.
We stayed at el Sauce, which had great beds and even better pillows! We arrived in the evening so there wasn’t much to do, but have a quick walk around the square and go to dinner. The walk did have some excitement. There was a half-hearted pickpocket attempt on me, which was the only attempt of the trip. Fortunately, I had everything in my trusty money belt and nothing in my pockets.
For dinner, I had the best burrito I have ever eaten in my life. Of course, I have forgotten the name of the restaurant, but you can see it from the front door of el Sauce. Simon tried another sample of Lomo Saltado (quickly becoming a favorite). Two young men entertained the diners with a flute, a guitar and their voices, as well as their serious desire to address the local currency imbalance.

September 22, 2008
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Can You Hear Me Now?

Cachiccata Day 1: Socma, Peru

We started the day with a hike of the ruins at Ollantaytambo. Then, Bruno picked us up in the trusty van and we were off to the trek starting point. We picked up Miguel, the cook, and Pio, one of the porters, on the way. Miguel, Alex, Simon and I started the trek while the porters and horsemen prepared for the trek.
The first village we encountered was Socma, where we stopped for a visit to the school. The children were excited to see us. We learned many of their names and ages and the teachers explained what they were learning that day. There were two classrooms, two teachers and about 20 students in total.
We had a great lunch next to a stream and then were off on the trail again, this time followed by the llama train (9 llamas in total). About 20 minutes into the hike we arrived at a beautiful waterfall. Later, we stopped at some Incan ruins for a snack and a bit of a rest. It was amazing to be in what seemed to us to be such a remote location, just hanging out, eating Oreo cookies.
Our campsite was great. We had a beautiful view of the mountains directly out the front of our tent. Tour Guide Alex was thrilled that cell phone reception could be had by standing on top of a large rock outcrop. We’re thinking of sending the picture in to Verizon.

September 23, 2008
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Uphill all the way...

Cachiccata Day 2: Chancachuco, Peru

A cheerful Guillermo and Freddie woke us up with hot tea and hot water at 6:15AM. Then breakfast, a bit of llama wrangling and up the mountain! The trek was 5 hours today, but mostly uphill. We started at 8:30 and ended at 1:30. We reached a peak of 4,436 meters (14,550 feet) and were awarded with spectacular views of Mt. Veronica and the Sacred Valley. It was a difficult hike, but it was worth it. I would do it again in a heartbeat!
We made our way down to two natural spring lakes that were abundant with bird life. We saw Black Ibis, Peruvian Geese, Yellow Billed Ducks, etc.
After gazing at the birds, we made our way to the campsite at about 4,200 meters (14,000 feet). Guillermo was there with juice made from black corn and then we were ready for a nap. The porters took a well-deserved break and played football. We were again amazed at their conditioning. To be able to run around playing football at that altitude after a day of hiking, cooking, etc. was incredible.
After dinner we all gazed at the night sky together. It was beautiful. With no light pollution we could see the entire Milky Way and millions of stars. If it hadn’t been so cold we could have stayed out there all night.

September 24, 2008
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It's Cold at 14,000 Feet!

Cachiccata Day 3: Cachiccata, Peru

We had put on all our layers Tuesday night because it was so cold. We managed to sleep well and kept fairly warm. Until we walked outside. Everything was covered in frost. It was 25 degrees F in our tent and about 14 degrees F outside. Brrrrr…..Simon’s boots had a layer of ice on the inside and they were in the tent all night!
Guillermo and Freddie brought hot tea and hot water and we eventually warmed up. We are getting to really like this way of being woken up and are considering bringing at least one of them home with us.
We hiked to our second peak this morning, which was slightly higher than the first at 4,480 meters (14,700 feet). We were definitely warm at this point. Again we had amazing views of the Sacred Valley and the surrounding mountains, including Mt. Veronica, which was under a bit of cloud cover. We made our offerings to the apus (small rock structures as a gift to the mountains) and were on our way downhill to more oxygen. Ah, sweet energizing oxygen!
The remainder of the day was spent hiking downhill, part of which was quite difficult as it was loose stone and gravel. Antonio, the horseman, made walking sticks for us, which helped with balance. Of course, Pio ran straight down the mountain, not bothering with anything silly like trails or walking sticks, with 50 lbs. on his back. Before lunch, we went to visit a ruin, which is thought to be a temple to Mt. Veronica. The doorway of the temple frames the peak. However, on this day it appears our offering to the apus were not sufficient and the peak was covered by clouds, with the consequence of lost photographic opportunity.
After lunch, we continued downhill to the Cachiccata Quarry. It was interesting to see where the Incas had gotten some of the stones and to see some stones partially completed, possibly on their way down the mountain.
There is also a cave that was discovered last year containing mummies. There was one skeleton completely intact, sitting in the fetal position. There were lots of skulls and other bones around the cave.
With shaking legs, we reached our campsite at 4:30 at about 8,000 feet. We can breath freely! And, we had hot showers and fully operating bathrooms! It was a joy to behold! Although, for one brief nanosecond, I missed the toilet tent. I then came to my senses and delighted in the joys of modern plumbing!
Dinner was in a community dining hall, so the other 2 groups (about 8 other tourists) on the trek were there as well. It was fun to discuss the trek with them, as we hadn’t seen each other much, other than as distant blobs of color on the crest of a hill.

September 25, 2008
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Inside a Giant Postcard...

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

We were sad to say goodbye to the porters. They were so kind and thoughtful and such hard-working people. They all seemed so happy all the time even though they were working so hard. I wanted to take them all home with me, but I’m sure they’re much happier in their mountains.
Bruno picked us up and took us to the train station in Ollantaytambo. With a Thomas the Tank Engine-like whistle, we were headed to Machu Picchu.
I have seen so many pictures of Machu Picchu that it was kind of a surreal feeling to be there in person, almost like walking around inside a giant 3D postcard. It seemed huge and kind of mystical. There were a lot of low hanging clouds adding to that mystique. We toured the ruins and were amazed again at the abilities of the Incas.
We arrived late in the morning, so I think we may have missed some of the larger crowds. There were a lot of people, but it didn’t feel overly crowded. There were some places where we were by ourselves and it seemed very peaceful. I can see why they chose that place for their city.
After taking in Machu Picchu we took the bus back down to Aguas Calientes. One quick massage later, we were having dinner with Alex and then celebrating at a discotech. I made a few attempts to learn to salsa dance, much to Simon’s entertainment. Also at the discotech was a female walking group from Australia who had just finished a 9-day trek yet somehow had enough energy to burn via dancing barefoot to AC/DC (aided perhaps by a few beers).

September 26, 2008
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Clean Clothes!

Cusco, Peru

We decided we were done hiking and had seen what we wanted to of Machu Picchu, so we headed back to Ollantaytambo on the 10:30AM train. Bruno picked us up and we headed back to Cusco. It seemed like a long time had passed, but it was really only four days. It felt like weeks. Being in the mountains was just so peaceful and magical.
We arrived in Cusco in the early afternoon. We said farewell to Alex and headed to our room. We took showers and put on clean clothes. Ah, the luxury!

September 27, 2008
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Gold & Catacombs

Lima, Peru

After a morning shopping spree in Cusco, Bruno reunited me with my sweater, which I had left in the van the previous day. Then we were headed back to Lima. But not before meeting the wild women walking crew, several of whom even remembered us from their dancing exploits of Friday night.
We arrived in Lima around 3:00 and decided to take a city tour. We had several hours to kill and thought it would be great to see some of the city. We visited a monastery that had underground catacombs. The monastery had original handmade and hand painted Spanish tiles on the walls that were beautiful. The catacombs had several hallways with various ceiling heights. Simon and I are both a bit, well, height challenged, so the warnings of “watch your head” were perhaps not taken as seriously as they should have been and Simon almost knocked himself out on the low ceiling. We’ll keep that in mind for the next catacombs we visit. After the monastery we visited the Gold Museum. On the floor above the Gold Museum, which is very cool, there is a military museum with perhaps the largest stockpile of weaponry outside the Michigan Militia. Once we’d had our fill of gold and guns it was back through the crazy traffic to the airport. We headed back to the US on an overnight flight. Our journey ended where it began, in Detroit, then home.

My Photo Album: Llama-Llama Ding Dong!
The Llama TrainThe 12 corner stone in CuscoOne of the largest stones at the fortress at Sacsayhuaman.Have you hugged an alpaca today?The White ChristCathedral in Cusco at duskHiking the Pisac RuinsIncan Terraces...can you feel the energy?Incan Ruins at PisacPisac Market - the place to be if you need colors for dyeChildren of PisacSheep Herder in the Sacred ValleyMoray Salt PansWe are going all the way up there!Farming in PeruSocma SchoolDo these packs on my back make me look fat?Waterfall on Day 1 of the trekA beautiful view on the first day of campingCan you hear me now?Llama wranglingWe are now the leaders of the llama trainWe made it to the first peak!Antonio takes a breather (only because we needed one)At the natural spring lakesStart of day 3 of the trek...brrrr...Second campsite viewCloser view of second campsite sceneryIs that frost on our tent?On our way to peak 2.  The scenery is breathtaking!We reached the second peak!Our offerings to the apus.Mt Veronica - It is a beautiful mountain!Simon on the way downhillHuge glaciers!Time for a snack!Temple to Mt. Veronica (she is there somewhere)Our dream team on the trek!All aboard to Machu Picchu!Terraces at Machu PicchuView from the entrance of Machu PicchuAnother of Machu Picchu...we could not help ourselves!We are here!!!Chinchila at Machu Picchu