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Machu Picchu Dream

By : laurie williams
Trip Begins June 10, 2011
Trip Ends June 16, 2011

My dream trip to Peru, that I have been waiting to take since I was in sixth grade.
See my photos : Machu Picchu Dream

Want to go? Machu Picchu by Train

I went to: Peru, Cusco, Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Lima, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu Ruins, El MaPi, Ollantaytambo, Machu Picchu, Costa del Sol
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June 10, 2011
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First Day in Cusco

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco

Every since I was in sixth grade, I have wanted to see Machu Picchu. My first view of this Inca city was in my sixth grade social studies book. I am 50 years old! I have waited a long time! If Oprah can give herself excessive birthday parties when she turned 50, I could send myself to Peru!

My flight from Atlanta landed around midnight the night before, I and stayed at the Costa del Sol Ramada. Gotta love having a hotel right out of the airport! The next day I would fly to Cusco.

I live in the Rocky Mountains at 4300 feet. I knew I would have some issues with altitude and less oxygen. Cusco is 11,000 feet above sea level. Flying from Lima, which is at sea level in an hour, is a bit of a surprise when one gets off the plane. The lack of oxygen can be felt almost immediately. It also does not help that Lan Airlines makes its planes to and from Lima park at the far end of the tarmac from the airport, so that passengers are walking a fair distance carrying luggage and trying to breathe!

After getting my luggage, I was met by Ruben, who took me to my hotel. He indulged me as I practiced my Spanish on him on the drive over. He also showed me the various children's groups in costume. He explained that a festival was taking place and that children from different schools were performing.

Ruben dropped me off at the hotel and let me know that my guide, Vidal would be back within 15 minutes. I was the last of the group to arrive.

Vidal brought me to the rest of the group near the Plaza de Armas. We had lunch, and then went to visit the beautiful cathedrals near the Plaza.

The beautiful La Catedral was started in 1559 and sits on the site of Viracocha Inca's palace. Stones taken from the nearby Sacsaywaman Inca complex were used to build the cathedral. On either side of the cathedral are the churches of Iglesia del Triunfo (1536), and Iglesia de Jesus Maria (1733).

The remains of the Inca historian Garcilaso de la Vega are kept at the Cathedral. de la Vega was the son of an Inca princess and a Spanish soldier. He was born in Cusco in 1539 and died in Cordoba, Spain in 1616. His remains were returned to Cusco in 1978 by King Juan Carlos of Spain.

After visiting the churches, our group went our separate ways. I wanted to take pictures of the children dancing, and then get back to the hotel and rest. The next day we would start our journey through the Sacred Valley.

THINGS TO KNOW: Altitude sickness is nothing to play with. You will be offered coca tea - tea made from coca leaves. Drink it, it helps. Yes, cocaine is made from coca leaves. However, no one is asking you to take cocaine! (I got asked a lot about this.) You will not get high from the tea. The tea helps with the headache you more certainly will get after arriving from Lima. I had tea the first day I was in Cusco, and the next morning before we left Cusco. The headache subsided, and I was fine.

June 11, 2011
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Winding Our Way Through the Sacred Valley

Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley

The next morning our group set off for a day in the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was the town of Chinchero.

We stopped at the Centro de Textiles Tradicionales and had a wonderful lesson on how dyes are made from plants, insects, and ground stones. As someone who dyes, and spins her own wool, I was in my element! I found myself going into greater depth when explaining in English just what the women were doing. One of our weavers has been to the United Nations to speak on keeping traditional dying and weaving methods. My only regret is that I did not have a picture taken of myself with these wonderful women. I did buy several items, and because I had identified myself as a fellow weaver, I scored a free scarf! Because this was a center for Traditional Weavers, I did not bargain any prices. I think they deserve any price they ask for. (I will explain bargaining/bartering at the end of this post.)

We then did a walking tour through Chinchero, which according to the Incas, was the birthplace of the rainbow. We visited the colonial church, built on Inca foundations. We also met some women out on a field, who were dehydrating potatoes.

After Chinchero, we went to the town of Urubamba for lunch. This was my chance to try alpaca, and it is delicious! We also had the best flan ever!

After lunch we were given the choice of going on to Ollantaytambo to see the Inca ruins there, and to get settled in our hotel, or to go see the salt pans near the town of Maras. I had seen pictures of the salt pans in National Geographic, and I wanted to see them in person. I made my case, and my group agreed to go. We did not regret that decision.

The salt pans near Maras are wonderful to see. Many people use these man-made pools to harvest their own salt, which comes from a salt-water hot spring. Our guide, Vidal, took us down into the salt pans via a very narrow path. I cannot recommend seeing these salt pans enough! The site is truly amazing and unusually beautiful.

After Maras, we went to the ruins of Moray. This is a deep set of terraces, in the round. The theory is that the Incas used this area as a type of laboratory, or green house to figure out which crops would grow under optimal conditions. Looking down into the "bowl", it made me wonder how such perfect circles were acheived.

We left Moray, and headed to Ollantaytambo. This is an awesome little town with two massive Inca ruins. We got there about dusk. Now, what really made this a fun place to be was that the town was celebrating the Festival of of El Senor de Chocikillka (a Pentecost festival). I would have loved to have spent two days here. Adventure-Life seriously needs to book two days here during Chocikillka. This was a fun festival! After we settled into our hotel, we went to dinner at the Blue Puppy, where we had an excellent view of the nightly fireworks.

Our hotel was El Sauce, which was a lovely hotel with feather bed quilts! The lobby had a wonderful assortment of Peruvian knit hats decorating the walls. Now, I need to buy hats to decorate a wall!

The next day we would leave for Agua Calientes and Machu Picchu.

THINGS TO KNOW: There is a big difference between bartering and bargaining. Bartering is trading one good for another. If I have an abundance of tomatoes and strawberries, I can trade my surplus for items I want. You need to have experience with bartering before coming to Peru to do it, and I would check with Adventure-Life before you bring goods down. Bargaining is getting an item at a lower price using currency. I learned my bargaining skills while living in the Middle East, and I am good at it! Depending on the item, I may counter with half of what is being asked. Then the vendor and I can "bargain" to reach a price. In Cusco, I got two dolls for 10 soles each, and the original price was 20 soles each. You may have to walk away if you can't get the price you want. Be prepared to do so. More often than not, the vendor will call you back with a counter offer that will make you both happy. If you don't get called back, don't walk back to that vendor. No deal will be had if you do. Remember, these people are trying to make a living.

June 12, 2011
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Machu Picchu at Last!

El MaPi, Machu Picchu

With some early morning dancers still parading through the streets of Ollantaytambo, our group set out for the train to Aguas Calientes, and then on to Machu Picchu.

With most of our luggage staying in Ollantaytambo, we walked to the train station. At the station, most of us bargained for walking sticks to take with us. My guide book had stated that hiking/walking sticks are not allowed in Machu Picchu. However, this is not true.

The ride on PeruRail was beautiful, and we arrived in Aguas Calientes, where most of us dropped off our luggage at El Mapi, our hotel. We then caught the bus to Machu Picchu.

Because it was a Sunday, the park was not as crowded, and there were more Peruvians on the grounds. Words cannot describe how I felt at finally seeing this site! I have been waiting almost 40 years to see Machu Picchu.

Vidal took us on a carefully guided walk. We had arrived around 10 a.m., and we would be there until the park closed. It was a beautiful, clear day, and the views were spectacular.

I was anxious to get a picture of the blue/black and white swallows that flew around us, but none landed long enough for me to snap a picture.

Other wildlife included llamas. Rather used to people, the llamas would allow people to pet them. Vidal did warn us that if they had had enough human interaction, they could kick! Alpacas had also been introduced to Machu Picchu. However, even at 8,000 feet, the area is too warm for alpacas and their thick coats.

Machu Picchu has terracing on almost all sides, and much of it does not make the main photographs. I was surprised to learn that there is a stone quarry there. One of my group members joked that she was sure that the Incas had invented the bulldozer, but archeologists, had not found it! I replied that Hiram Bingham had found it, and it was stored in a basement somewhere at Yale University! We all had a good laugh.

Machu Picchu is being watched by environmentalists. Every tourist who goes there leaves a carbon footprint. Our group had the option of going back to the park the next day for a few hours. I felt I had left enough footprints. Parts of the park are off limits, and there are rangers to see that tourists do not stray. It is such a beautiful site, and yet, I felt a bit guilty knowing that I was contributing to its wear and tear.

At the end of the day, four members of our group stayed at the Sanctuary Lodge, right outside the gates of the park. The rest of us returned to Aguas Caliente, and some much needed hot showers!

THINGS TO KNOW: Hicking poles and bottled water are allowed in Machu Picchu. Most of us carried water and snacks in backpacks. Everything brought in must come out. Sunglasses, sunblock and insect repellent are necessary items when hiking the park. Wear long, lightweight pants. I saw many people with sunburns and insect bites. Machu Picchu is not an easy hike. There are a lot of ancient stairs. Many of us in my group had trained for months to prepare for this day.

June 13, 2011
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Tacky Tourist Towns do have Charm!

El MaPi, Machu Picchu

While half of our group opted for the second half day at Machu Picchu, the rest of us had returned to our hotel, El MaPi.

My guide book clearly stated that Aguas Calientes had no charm and that it was a tourist trap.

Sometimes it is best to ignore the guide books!

I wandered around the town and found much to be charming. Of course it is touristy. That is half the fun! The area around the train station is a labyrinth of shops and vendors, and it reminded me of the Middle Eastern souqs. While guide books state that this place is expensive shopping for souvenirs, and in some cases this is true, I also found vendors willing to bargain, and many places with decent prices.

At noon, all of our group met up and we were back on the train to Ollantaytambo. This train ride was highly amusing as we had a fashion show, and an explanation of a local festival, complete with a costumed train steward dressed in what I can only describe as a cross between a Chinese dragon and an Inca diety! When he joined the fashion show, it was hilarious!

Back at Ollantaytambo, we had time to explore one more set of Inca ruins before gathering our large suitcases and heading back to Cusco.

THINGS TO KNOW: Guide books are written by people, and people have biases. Sometimes it is best to take what is written with a grain of salt.

June 14, 2011
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To Market, To Market, to Buy a Fat (guinea) Pig!

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco

Our morning started back at Plaza de Armas, where the children were still dancing. This time Vidal's eldest son was one of the dancers! Vidal was part of the parent band. Look for the photograph of the man in the yellow hat playing the flute. That is Vidal, our guide. There were five educators, including myself, in my group. To see our guide being a good dad to his child, and supporting his child's school only increased our already stratospheric regard for this wonderful man!

This morning, most of our group went to the ruins of Sacsaywaman and Q'enqo. Knowing that many of the stones from these sites are now the foundations of several colonial churches was interesting.

After lunch, several of the group wanted to go to a museum. However, I was finished with Inca life, and wanted to explore present-day Cusco life. I asked to be let off at San Pedro market.

A market place is a great place to learn about a community's culture. (Next time you are in you local supermarket, slow down, and really look at the items you can buy. You would be surprised!)

San Pedro's Market, is a covered market place about the size of a football field. Around the perimeters are clothing stalls. Inside the market, the areas are clearly marked with signs. This market has been filmed for the Travel Channel Shows "Bizarre Foods" with Andrew Zimmern, and Anthony Bordain's " No Reservations".

Each aisle has its own specialty. The flower aisle is filled with stall after stall of fresh cut flowers, and the smell is sweet and spicy. The bread aisle smells heavenly, as large round loaves are wrapped for customers. My favorite aisle was the chocolate aisle! I was given several samples of some delicious chocolate, and even bought a few dark chocolate bars. There are aisles specializing in veggies, fruits, and fruit juices, which are blended and served on the spot. The meat aisles are separated by what type of meat is being sold, pork, beef, etc. And yes, a person can buy cuy (guinea pig). No, they do not sell cuddly live pets. These are prepared for cooking, with the exception that the little claws and head are intact.

Nearby is the Witches' Market. Here is Cusco's version of Diagon Alley (for you Harry Potter fans). There are enough potion ingredients for sell that even Severus Snape would salivate!

Dried llama fetuses hang on stall walls. These are used to place in the corners of new buildings, as a blessing on the new structure. Live toads, and dried toads sell for a variety of medical ailments. Potions in all varieties, including love potions, are sold in kits. Hallucinagenic cacti used for medical/spiritual purposes are sold. A person can even sit with a shaman for consultation. Only good magic is for sell here - no Sectumsempra here!

While Catholicism is the main Christian religion, it is also mixed with indiginous beliefs in many areas. There are shaman shops all over Cusco, and the few I visited look like American health food stores. A few look like medieval markets with mounds of spices - until you look real close, and those spices look like ground frogs, etc!

A person can even go on a tour for health reasons with a shaman guide, and partake of the hallucinogenic cacti. The San Pedro and Ayahuasca cacti contain mescalline, an extremely powerful drug, which can be toxic if used improperly. Cusco is not Amsterdam, and a person just can't go into a "coffeeshop" and have a psychedelic experience. If this is something that must be experienced, it is best done with a trained shaman who knows how to use the drugs. The shaman I spoke with told me that he does routinely turn down potential customers who just want to get high.

That evening, Vidal took us to a restaurant for our final meal together. One of our group, Will, did the brave thing, and ordered cuy! He gave me a taste, and it is delicious! As a person with gluten allergies, eating in Peru is extremely easy, as the main grain used is quinoa. (Amaranth, known in Peru as kiwicha, is also easy to find. It is often puffed, like Americans puff wheat and rice, and served as a breakfast cereal.) For dinner, I had a traditional Quechan meal of quinoa, melted cheese, potato, and rice. Oh, it was rich!

During dinner, a Peruvian band came in. Now, we had heard bands with the flutes, guitars, etc, all over Peru. There is something wrong to hear a Beatles' song played with Peruvian instruments. This band played only Peruvian songs, which Vidal was singing along to. Our favorite song was what we called the "Pacha Mama" song. When these men brought out their CDs to sell, we all bought one! I wish I had brought my video camera! The man playing the box, and it was that, a wooden box, had the most fascinating facial expressions as he sang and made various sounds. He was fun to watch!

That night we said good-bye to each other, as we were all leaving at various times. A heartfelt good-bye was said to Vidal, the best guide EVER!

THINGS TO KNOW: Ask for Vidal as your guide. The man is awesome, humble, knows history and facts. And he is a great dad!

LAUNDRY!!!!! We all need clean clothes. The Taypikala Hotel does provide a laundry service. When I wanted to get my laundry done, the front desk was inundated with about 30 other patrons trying to check out. So, I went around the corner (by the school), where there is a laundry service. I paid 5 soles for one kilo - 10 soles in all. Then I recalled that I wanted to clean the clothes I was currently wearing! I later brought them to the front desk of Taypikala. Same amount of clothes, but the price - 53 soles! Ouch! Now, the cheaper place had my clothes finished faster. They were slightly damp, and one sock was missing. The expensive bunch took 12 hours....beautifully pressed and folded. I will always pick the cheaper route.

June 15, 2011
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Good-bye Cusco, Hello, Lima

Costa del Sol, Lima

I was one of the last of my group to leave. So, after checking out, I spent the last few hours back at San Pedro market, and then to San Blas area for shoe shopping.

Unlike many women, I do not have a vast collection of shoes. However, the night before, on our way to and from dinner, I found two shoe/boot shops. They were located near San Blas, across from the Novotel Hotel.

I bought a pair of high tops, and a pair of hiking boots - check out my very last picture. They had some hot pink/bright purple shoes, and I really wanted them, but they did not come in my size. For someone who prefers to walk around in socks, I find it very ironic that I came home with three pairs of shoes!

We left Cusco that afternoon, and landed in Lima around 3:30pm. When I stayed in Lima the first night, I made arrangements with the Costa del Sol to take my luggage when I returned. My flight to the United States would not be until 12:40 the next morning. I had several hours to spend in Lima, and I chose to spend them at the Lima Temple (Mormon - I am one).

The Lima Temple is located in the eastern suburb of La Molina, and I had done some preliminary planning before coming to Peru. I took my suitcases over to the hotel, and changed into Sunday Dress. The hotel staff then stored my luggage for free - it would have cost me to do so at the airport. They then arranged for a cab to take me to the temple. We were driving in rush hour traffic, so it took about an hour to get to La Molina. I then spent the next two hours in peace. When I was ready to leave, temple staff called a cab for me. We got back to the airport in less time. I then changed my clothes again, got my luggage and went across the road to the airport to check in.

While waiting for my flight, I kept myself busy having a late snack, and browsing through the bookstores. My niece loves theTwilight series of books. I always try to find these books in foreign languages, and I wasn't disappointed. They are quite popular in Peru, and I was able to take pictures of the front covers with their Spanish titles.

Then I found my gate and amused myself playing freecell on my computer.

June 16, 2011
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Back Home Again.

In the wee hours of the morning, I boarded my flight back to the United States.

I loved my entire time in Peru! The day before, while shoe shopping, I tripped on the cobble stone street. Immediately, four men came to my assistance, and one stayed with me until he found someone who spoke both Spanish and English. He wanted to know that I was really okay! Such sweet, humble people.

There are many things that I now want to see in Peru, that I had not heard of before. I fully intend on returning to this wonderful country!

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