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Most Magnificent Pair: Manu and Machu Picchu

By : Cathy Bach
Trip Begins August 1, 2011
Trip Ends August 14, 2011


See my photos : Most magnificent pair: Manu and Machu Picchu

Want to go? Machu Picchu by Train, Manu Biosphere

I went to: Peru, Manu, Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, Pantiacolla Lodge, Cusco, Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Machu Picchu, Lima, Costa del Sol, Hotel Ruinas, Manu Wildlife Center, El Sauce, El MaPi, Machu Picchu Ruins, Amazon
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August 3, 2011
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The exciting descent to the cloud forest

Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge, Manu

I'm laying in bed writing by candlelight listening to the sounds of the cloud forest. What an incredible 10.5 hour drive from Cusco to Cock-of-the-Rock Lodge. A little scary with 5,000' drop offs, landslides, tunnels, deep mud holes, but so very exciting too. The bumpy road had so many places where the road was completely cut away. Sometimes, it felt like the wheel was 1 inch from the edge! Sometimes huge trucks would come right at us, and force us the back up; scary, but our driver was so good at backing up. We started the day at 11,500', went up to almost 13,000', then began the descent to 5,000'. From dry desert to elfin forest to cloud forest, where everything is in mist. Got so excited to see rainforest plants and animals again after so long. This place is so remote already and we're only 1 day in. Saw 2 species of quetzals, a toucanet and when we pulled in to the lodge at 4:30, we saw 4 brown capuchin monkeys up close!! Saw 4 species of hummingbirds while having a drink, followed by a tasty dinner. Enrique (our guide) is fantastic and our driver is even better because he didn't get us killed! So glad we're in such a small group - nice people (two 24-yr olds from San Francisco and a couple from Holland).

Met to go to the Cock-of-the-Rock lek at 5:45 am! Totally amazing --- 3 males were there - so much noise and fluffing feathers, etc. Then saw lots of other birds - oropendolas, woodpeckers, 5 species of tanagers, a jacamar, and so many more cock-of-the-rocks. The bright orange is just gorgeous, especially when they fly. I think I got some great pictures. Then had breakfast watching all the crazy brown capuchin monkeys. Saw one crawl through a screen, grab bread off the table, and zoom out the door. Another came in through the door to steal a package of crackers, and then sat on the roof eating the crackers.

August 4, 2011
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our intro to dugout canoe travel

Pantiacolla Lodge, Manu

Left at 9:30am for another 3 hours in the van - even more muddy and more trucks today. Stopped at a coca farm. Then got to the port to start our dug-out canoe ride at 12:30. It was raining and cold, but luckily the boat had a top. Was cozy in my new raincoat. Saw lots of great water birds and had lunch on the shore, near a capybera path. Saw capyberas after lunch right on the edge of the river. Arrived at Pantiaciolla Lodge at 3pm. Strange set-up with a walkway to your own bathroom and all rooms connected and open to the outside. As the dutch couple said, 'You can hear every time someone in another room sneezes or farts'.

Took an amazing walk through the forest before dinner. Leaf-cutter ants were absolutely everywhere -huge, fat paths of hundreds of them each carrying a leaf to their nest - so cute. There were trails on logs, going up trees, and everywhere. Never have seen anything like this. Was so exciting to see saddle-backed tamarins and dusky titi monkeys and red howler monkeys. Saw very strange cicada chimneys and army ants too. Seems so strange to be eating dinner in the tropical rain forest in a fleece, because the 'frijoles' is here. A joke in our group because I called the cold front 'beans'. Actually the cold front is called 'friajes'. Wonder if it will continue to be cold tomorrow. Can't wait to see more, but 5 h in the boat will be long.

August 5, 2011
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finally arrived at Manu

Manu Wildlife Center, Manu

I'm now under the cozy mosquito netting listening to amazing frog calls and trying to write in candlelight, without the candle burning up the mosquito netting! What a full day! The howlers woke us up this morning howling! They are so loud! Left at 7am for the 5-hour boat ride to Manu Wildlife Center. Caimans and turtles and more birds --- pretty chilly wind but amazing to see how remote this place is. Then finally you arrive at a fancy lodge and bungalow. Great food here. Presentation is like in fancy restaurants. Took a 3-hr. walk this afternoon --- 2 more monkey species (spider and squirrel monkeys) and lots more birds. Seeing scarlet macaws fight this afternoon was amazing - so loud and so violent. Was amazing to hear the story that only 2 days before us, the group saw 3 non-contact people. All 3 were naked and had only strings holding up their penises. They have presumably almost never had any contact with modern civilization!! The rule now is that you are not allowed to have any contact with them. It's hard to believe that anywhere on earth can be this remote. Must go to sleep now - exhausted and need to get up at 4:30am tomorrow.

August 6, 2011
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a day of exciting trips to clay licks

Manu Wildlife Center, Manu

Left at 5:15am. Short boat ride and walk to the macaw and parrot clay lick - amazing numbers (thousands and that is not an exaggeration) of parrots came first to feed on the clay on the bank. When something startled them, they would all fly away. What a ruckus! First the yellow-headed parrots came, then the mealy parrots, then the blue-headed parrots, and 2 orange-cheeked parrots. Got to the blind at about 6am and had breakfast while watching all the action. Incredible luxury, with chairs and tables. Had tasty pancakes and cereal and fruit and coffee. My favorite spot for coffee in my whole life. Then the macaws started coming in - absolutely huge and so gorgeous. When they fly they are totally bright red underneath. The sky was filled with birds. At least 60 macaws! They left at 8, but came back to the trees later. The cold shower at 11 felt so good - it's finally hot and humid here. The cold front is definitely over. Just a few bugs, not bad.

Tried to stay cool and take some pics before 3, then left for the tapir salt lick. A 3k walk through flood plain forest, then terra firma forest. We were literally dripping sweat when we got there. Then ate dinner, and into our mosquito net beds to wait for the tapirs. Rested a bit and it was really fun to hear all the night sounds -owls, frogs, nightjars, but no tapir by 8:30, so walked back the 3k in the dark. Was disappointed we didn't see any frogs or snakes, but we did see the most venomous spider here (the wanderling) and 2 whip scorpions and tons of spiders and a humongous bird-eating tarantula. It must have been 8' long. Fiorella coaxed it out of its burrow with a long skinny stick. On the way to the lick, we saw a huge tortoise - very exciting and more leaf-cutter ants! Got home at 10pm for another cold shower. Then set alarm for 4:45. Am covered with itchy bumps from sand flies, but this experience is beyond incredible!

August 7, 2011
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giant river otters, howlers and birds --- what a morning!

Manu Wildlife Center, Manu

Breakfast at 5am, then left at 5:30 in boat for the oxbow lake - 20 minutes down the river, then a 10-minute walk to the lake. Went on a catamaran (2 dug-out canoes with platform and folding chairs on top paddled by 2 guys). Lake was all misty and like glass as the sun came up - absolutely gorgeous. What a way to see wildlife. My favorite bird-watching experience of my whole life. We could get so much closer for great views and pictures. The horned screamers were so loud, and the hoatzins so crazy looking. Saw a Dad jacana and 3 babies, a small caiman, howler monkeys, one squirrel monkey and 23 new bird species. One of the best parts of the trip was getting a chance to see the rare giant river otters. We stayed very still and they started to swim over to check us out. They definitely do not have cute faces like sea otters --- huge teeth! On our walk back from the lake to the boat, about 30 or 40 peccaries (huge pigs) came crashing through the forest. SO LOUD, even from a ways away. It must be so frightening if they head towards you! On the way to the lake, we saw a Mom capybera and 2 babies, and then the huge Dad came out of the forest - special.

Back at 9:30. Too hot to do much until 3. Will be very sad to leave this place tomorrow, but the humidity is even more extreme than I remembered. The clothes you wear are exactly as wet as the clothes you wash out!! Walked to canopy tower at 3. I was so proud of Brian that he went up. Amazing to be 120' up in a huge kapok tree. Came down after 10 minutes because there were too many sweat bees. Had a very enjoyable last walk through the forest - just the 2 of us. Cold beer, wine, passion fruit juice, and lasagna awaited us. Doesn't get much better than this! Fun last happy hour with Rene and Patricia from Holland, Kelcie and Jenya from SF, and Dusty and Janet from AU and Fiorella. Was wonderful to get such nice people in our group and such incredible guides. We are so lucky.

August 8, 2011
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sad departure from the rainforest

Hotel Ruinas, Cusco

Breakfast at 5, then boat for 3 hours, car for an hour and a half, another short boat ride, and another car ride for 2 and a half hours --- all to get to the airport. Very hot and tired by the time we got there, and so sad to see all the tropical rainforest destruction today. We saw gold mining all the way on the river trip, which culminated in a horrible ugly gold mining town, Colorado. Saw where the rainforest had been cut for cattle ranching for the last 2 hours of the drive. Saw some agriculture - bananas. And some logging too. Mario said that 90% of the gold mining is illegal. We passed tons of police and gobs of motorcycles and shanty towns. Was very sad to have to end the magnificent rainforest experience this way. The first 2 hours before we started seeing the destruction, I just stared at the forest and felt so happy that all the animals and plants we saw have such an incredibly special and pristine place to!

Was so tired when we finally got to our hotel in Cusco that I could hardly write an email. Even ate dinner right there at the hotel, because we couldn't manage to walk anywhere! And my head kept dropping onto the table during dinner!

August 9, 2011
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adventures all day long on our trip into the Sacred Valley

El Sauce, Sacred Valley

Got to sleep in til 6:30 - WOW! Left for our next adventure with a new group of people - 3 school teachers. First stopped at a llama farm/weaving cooperative, where we saw lots of varieties of llamas, alpacas, and even vicunas with super-long necks. Then went to Pisac Ruins - amazing terraces and buildings with slanted walls, dating to the 12th century. Built by the Quechan people (later incorrectly called the Incas). Brian wasn't freaked out by the paths right next to the cliffs, which made it so much more fun. Then to Pisac Market where I bought 2 bags. Never have been any good at bargaining! Then to lunch at a buffet restaurant --- it was so tasty to have cold stuff again.

Then to Moray, which is a very old agricultural center with circular terraces where they experimented with growing even Amazonian crops at 11,000'. The terraces were in an incredible depression next to very high mountains, all snow-covered and with glaciers (over 20,000' tall --- the tallest mountains we've ever seen; even taller than DeNali!). Gorgeous setting. Then to a salt mine which turned out to be hundreds and hundreds of salt pans. Since Incan times, families have harvested salt here --- each family has about 50 pans to take care of. Water from the mountain is diverted into the pans and after 7-10 days, salt is collected. So incredibly much work! 100 pounds of salt yields $6US. And 2 kg. of potatoes yields 1.5 soles, which is about 45 cents US.

On the way, we saw people plowing fields with oxen and donkeys carrying very heavy loads. There is nothing mechanized here. The experimental station was really interesting. They even made hybrids and produced over 3,000 varieties of potatoes alone (all between the 12th and 16th centuries). Enjoyed happy hour looking out our hotel window at all kinds of ancient ruins on the surrounding mountains.

Had dinner at Hearts Cafe in Ollantaytambo --- all profits go to a non-profit organization for children and orphans of the Sacred Valley. Lots of mothers die in child birth in the indigenous Quechan villages, because the people do not believe in white man medicine.

August 10, 2011
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Magnificent Machu Picchu at last!

El MaPi, Machu Picchu

Left on the 8am train for Machu Picchu. It was fun to take a motorcycle car station (a motorcycle with top and back seat) to the train station. Absolutely spectacular 1 and a half hour train ride, right next to a fast-flowing, huge river (Urubamba) with high peaks all around and lots were snow covered. Most gorgeous train ride of our lives! Left luggage at our hotel in Aguas Calientes and took the bus to Machu Picchu --- 20 minutes of a zig-zag road up 1,700 feet! Even though you've seen so many pictures of Machu Picchu, words cannot describe what it is like when you have your first view of the sites and Huayna Picchu mountain! It is awe-inspiring, spiritual, the most magnificent site I've ever seen. I was mesmerized by the mountains - how steep, how green, how jagged, how utterly impressive.

Ayul was a great guide! He kept avoiding the huge groups of people, which there were tons of! We saw everything at the site (some in the morning, then had lunch, then the rest). Exhausted at 3:30, but I did the optional hike to the Inca Drawbridge, while Brian waited for us at the Hut of the Gatekeeper of the Rising Sun. The Inca Drawbridge was very impressive, and I've never seen such steep mountains, and cliff-hanging walks ever before.

By 5:30 we were having a cold beer, then a Pisco Sour (delicious). The free dinner at the hotel was OK and easy. The highlights of Machu Picchu were: the condor, the shadow stones, the Temple of the Sun, the Temple with 3 Windows, the stone walls with unusually-shaped stones, the terraces, and as Brian says 'EVERYTHING!'

August 11, 2011
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The gorgeous hike to Intipunku

Hotel Ruinas, Cusco

Left at 7am to go back to Machu Picchu. Climbed to Intipunku (the Sun Gate) - a beautiful hike with great views the whole way up (600ft) and the whole way down. Sat in solitude at the top for a while looking the other direction at the mountains. It was so incredibly peaceful and relaxing. Saw a coral snake eating a gecko on the way down! Very exciting, because coral snakes are so venomous! Before leaving Machu Picchu, Brian and I found a tiny nook for ourselves to gaze at the mountains (in the shade). A very special ending to a very special place. . . Took bus back to Aguas Calientes and met our group for a tasty lunch at Indio Felix - took many pictures of the incredible presentations of the food.

Left on the 1:30pm train to Ollantaytambo. Ayul took us into a typical Quechan house --- one room with guinea pigs running everywhere --- at least a hundred of them. There were skulls in nooks (one had a skull and a picture of Jesus together) and a llama fetus hanging from the ceiling. It's amazing that people today are living just like they did in the 1500'. One room for 5 people, sleeping on llama skins on the dirt floor.

Drove back to Cusco and had a fantastic pizza dinner at La Pizza Carlo. There were 4 tables, a wood oven, and a counter to make the pizzas, and a fridge to hold the beers, all in such a TINY room. Very tasty pizza! Not a word of English spoken!

August 12, 2011
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all the sights of Cusco in one day!

Hotel Ruinas, Cusco

What a wonderful last day, filled with amazing sights and fun adventures.
*Qorikancha - Temple of the Moon. On the way there we saw police men dressed up in crazy costumes with whips, to prevent people from jay walking!
*Food market - bull's penises, whole pigs, hallucinogenic drugs, juice stations with the biggest papayas we've ever seen, chicken soup stations, etc. This market was definitely for the local people. We were almost the only tourists there!
*Saqsaywaman - an ancient Incan site with the most humongous rocks. I still can't understand how it was possible to build the rock walls. I became infatuated with all the crazy shapes of the rocks and how they fit together so perfectly --- no mortar. You can't even fit a piece of paper between the rocks! The rocks made such interesting patterns!
*Sweater factory - I bought a gorgeous baby alpaca sweater
*Lunch at Inka Grill - very tasty Peruvian dish - aji de granilla (chicken with a slightly spicy peanuty sauce)
*Le Cathedral - highlight was seeing the painting of the Last Supper done in the Cusco style. Judas was painted as Pisarro and the food was guinea pig!!!
*Inka Museum - whirlwind visit with the Energizer Bunny Ayul. Interesting but so fast.

Then said good-bye to everyone. Had guinea pig for dinner at Kusikuy --- tasty, but not much meat. In the initial presentation, the guinea pig was eating a pepper, and had a half-tomato hat, complete with greens adorning the hat! The head was still there after they cut it up! Very fun way to end this amazing Peruvian adventure.

SO SO SO GLAD we did this trip and can't wait to come back to South America. . .

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