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Our Guatemala Exploration Trip!

By : Gerard Errante
Trip Begins December 25, 2012
Trip Ends January 2, 2013

Please immerse yourself in the beauty of the photographs and read about our trip to Guatemala - truly a wonderful travel destination. In our short time there we had wonderful experiences seeing the primary sights and learning that there is even more to experience in this varied and culturally rich country.
See my photos : Our Guatemala Exploration Trip!

Want to go? Guatemala Explorer

I went to: Guatemala, Antigua, Guatemala City, Hotel Aurora, Chichicastenango, Santiago de Atitlan, Posada de Santiago, Flores, Casona del Lago, Tikal Ruins, Chiminos Island Lodge
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December 25, 2012
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Guatemala City

Guatemala City, Guatemala

For the last several years, my partner D and I have arranged end-of-year trips, in part with the idea of celebrating New Year's Day in an exotic locale. Some previous trips have been to New Zealand, the Galapagos, and Cuba. This year, we selected Adventure Life and a trip to Guatemala. While Guatemala has not been a ''bucket list'' destination, it has been at the back of my mind for some time. Perhaps this is due in part to a wonderful piece of art that I see daily hanging in my study. My parents brought this collage-like stylized parrot from a trip to Guatemala when I was a child (all too many years ago). So this year we celebrated Christmas day with a flight to Guatemala City. Our first flight from our home city, Las Vegas, was fine. However, the connecting flight in Houston was delayed by considerably over an hour, putting us in Guatemala City well after 11:00 PM. We were a bit concerned about missing the person from ViaVenture who was to meet us and drive us to Antigua. We needn't have worried as a most friendly driver met us at the airport with our names prominently displayed. During the hour-long drive we engaged in an animated and informative conversation about Antigua and the country as a whole. Arriving in Antigua well after midnight was eerily exotic as the small colorful streets were totally deserted. Our driver knocked on the locked door of the Hotel Aurora, and soon we were in a stunningly beautiful courtyard. We were immediately ushered to our room where we quickly unpacked and gratefully headed to bed.

December 26, 2012
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Antigua

Hotel Aurora, Antigua

In the clear light of day, the courtyard that had looked somewhat mysterious in the subdued light the previous night, burst into a profusion of colors. After the previous day's diet of airport food, we eagerly attacked a most satisfying breakfast of huevos, black beans, tortillas, fresh fruit, and of course, coffee. Promptly at 9:00 AM, we were met by Gary, our ebullient and informative guide for the next four days. Gary was most enthusiastic and inquisitive, approaching sights and street scenes as if for the first time, but with the confidence of a local. He would peer into shops and ask people cooking in open store fronts what they were making, even soliciting a taste from time to time. Of course we saw the standard sights starting with the Central Plaza, Cathedral and Palace. In touring the latter, we came upon the office of the mayor that was closed with yellow tape. ''He's not here'', Gary explained - ''he's in jail''. I had read about his incarceration, and understand a certain embarrassment coupled with pride in a system that was starting to work. In a country often riddled with corruption, finally there appeared to be some accountability. In touring the ruins of the Cathedral, many details were pointed out which our less experienced eyes would have missed. Of the many other sights that morning, the church and monastery of San Francisco was a standout. Following a quick lunch, at Gary's suggestion, we were off for the La Azotea Cultural Center in nearby Jocotenango. Here we visited both a coffee museum as well as a music museum. It was a fascinating and beautiful experience walking through the coffee plantation and witnessing the production of the famous Guatemalan coffee from berry to brew. The music museum was likewise captivating, with much of the Mayan culture being brought to like through music and dance. Rounding out our first full day of touring was a wonderful meal at Bistrot Cinq, a fine French oriented restaurant within an easy walk from our hotel.

December 27, 2012
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Chichicastenango

Chichicastenango, Guatemala

Greeted by another beautiful morning, after an early breakfast we left the wonderful Hotel Aurora for a full day of travel. We were met at 8:00 AM, and joined by
our new travel mates, Nita and Larry for the approximately three-hour drive to Chichicastenango and it's famed market. ''Chichi'' lived up to its billing of displaying a dizzying array of goods ranging from foods to handicrafts. We didn't purchase much, and although bargaining is expected, we barely haggled since the prices were so low and we wanted to support the artists as much as possible. In addition to the myriad of stalls, the two churches on the east and west sides of the market, were fascinating. Gary was quite articulate in describing the curious mixture of Catholic and Mayan rituals. We were able to witness this practice, as shamans were at work in both Santo Tom's on the east side, and the smaller Capilla del Calavrio opposite on the west side. As we were leaving, we were also most fortunate to witness a parade of one of the Catholic Brotherhoods, a cofradia, dating back to the 16th century. Then it was back to our van and on to famed Lake Atitlan. Before arriving in Panajachel on the north side of the lake, we stopped at a magnificent overlook and were treated to a gorgeous view of the lake and its three volcanoes. Atitlan has been compared to Lake Como in northern Italy; and the volcanoes surrounding Atitlan are certainly a match for the mountains surrounding Como. In Panajachel, it was time for a late lunch, and we followed Gary's lead to a small restaurant specializing in pupusas. This dish, new to us gringos, is basically a corn tortilla with various fillings such as cheese, pork, and/or refried beans. The pupusa is stuffed, looking somewhat a donut, though of course with very different fillings. Following our satisfying meal and a stroll around town, it was time for a ride across the lake and our lodging for the next three nights. My vision of a ride across the large lake in a sizable ferry was soon dashed as the five of us boarded a small fiberglass dinghy with an outboard motor. The crossing, being buffeted by wind and waves for about 40 minutes, was quite thrilling. Upon arriving at our destination, Santiago, we learned that our travel mates, Nita and Larry were lodging at the Hotel Bambuacute, while my partner D and I went to the Posada de Santiago, run by the charismatic Dave Glanville. Both lodgings were beautifully situated on the lake, a distance from the town. Our cottage was superbly furnished (including a supply of Dave's estate grown coffee) and beautifully situated. While we were in this relatively secluded location, we ate our evening meals at the Posada. As it turned out, there was a rather large birthday celebration that evening, and they had arranged for musical entertainment, which we all enjoyed. The guitarist/vocalist was an American, originally from Ohio, but living in Panajachel for the last 30 years. After a satisfying meal and Chilean wine, it was time to put an end to our long day.

December 28, 2012
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Posada de Santiago

Posada de Santiago, Santiago de Atitlan

This was our first unhurried morning, and after a leisurely breakfast overlooking the lake, we met our guide, Gary, and travel companions, Nita and Larry in Santiago. To get into town, we were treated to our first tuk-tuk ride. These three-wheel glorified motorcycles were a most convenient and inexpensive mode of transport. Our driver, who appeared to be considerably under the drinking age, seemed to have NASCAR ambitions, and the drive was quite exciting. At first glance, Santiago seemed to have not much to offer beyond the usual tourist kitsch. However, the ever-inquisitive and exuberant Gary made the day quite an adventure. He seemed to know almost everyone, as many enthusiastic greetings were exchanged. We went into a number of unique shops, in each case talking with the owners. At one point, Gary had a young girl demonstrate the traditional headdress; at another stop, he asked an elderly woman to demonstrate the back strap loom. We also stopped at a woman's cooperative where stunning weavings and clothing were displayed. The rather horrific history of the civil war was not glossed over, as we discussed this in the plaza in front of the Parroquial Santiago Apostol church. We also discussed medical care in the country, and visited the local hospital, even speaking with a young physician. And of course, we hunted out Maximun, and discussed the various Catholic brotherhoods. The evening was spent at the Posada, sharing a lovely meal and wine with our travel companions who joined us from their hotel.

December 29, 2012
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Santiago de Atitlan

Santiago de Atitlan, Guatemala

On our second relaxed morning at the Posada, we devoured magnificent blue corn pancakes while again gazing at the lake. While we were waiting for breakfast, D who is an excellent musician gave an impromptu concert on the hotel piano, including some of her own compositions. Prior to leaving our home, D had arranged a session with the local Mayan healer, Dolores Ratzan. While D was having an amazing morning with Dolores, I sat quietly by the lake and read. In late morning, we zoomed into town again by tuk-tuk to meet with our small group for a tour of some of the lake villages. So it was back into a fiberglass dinghy and off first to San Marcos. This New Age center had the rather nostalgic vibe of San Francisco in the 60's. Available here was all manner of alternative activities such as tarot reading, reflexology, flower remedies, etc. Next stop was San Juan which was a lovely quiet and relatively untouristed small village. A special treat here was a demonstration by a woman who belonged to a cooperative that used only natural, rather than chemical dyes. Our last stop was the more bustling San Pedro, which we reached by tuk-tuk rather than by boat. Here we had a late lunch at a hotel restaurant owned by a young Canadian woman. By late afternoon, the wind had come up considerably, so the boat ride back to the Posada was rather wet and wild. Our final night included another lovely meal as well as a visit in our cabin from a mercifully small and shy scorpion.

December 30, 2012
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Travel Day

Casona del Lago, Flores

Well, not exactly ''Planes, Trains and Automobiles'', today was boat, van, and airplane. Because of our long travel day, we got an early start, being picked up at the Posada boat dock by Gary, and then picking up our travel companions at their hotel boat dock. We soon learned that the wind of the previous afternoon was just a harbinger of things to come. The wind, while not gale force, certainly felt like it as we slowly fought our way across the lake back to Panajachel. The crossing, which under favorable conditions, could be achieved in about half an hour, took nearly twice that long as we were continually buffeted, the thin fiberglass boat shuddering (along with us) at every wave. When we finally made it to the Panajachel dock, somewhat shaken but still intact, we were met by a van for the long drive back to Antigua and then to Guatemala City. On the way, we stopped at the small town of Solola where a large and bustling market was in full sway. This was a most interesting experience as this clearly was not a market for tourists, but for residents from throughout the area. Native costumes abounded, and women carrying amazingly large bundles on their heads were everywhere. And, for one of the few times in my life, I, at 5'5'', felt relatively tall. Back to the van, our drive continued back to Antigua where we left our travel mates, Nita and Larry at the Hotel Aurora. We then continued with Gary to the Guatemala City airport where we boarded our early evening flight to Flores. We were met there by another ViaVenture employee for a short drive to the third hotel of our trip, Casona del Lago. Enough energy remained for a quick supper at the hotel and then to rest for the following day at Tikal.

December 31, 2012
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Flores

Flores, Guatemala

On this last day of the year, we awoke eagerly anticipating our excursion to Tikal. Following breakfast, we were met by Noe, our guide for the next two days. During the hour-long drive, we were presented with much information about the ruins, and the lake Peten Itza area in general. While we had read a fair bit about the ruins if Tikal; naturally nothing can replace the actual experience of being there, and absorbing the sense of history and majesty of the place. This was the first cloudy day of our trip, and as we entered the Great Plaza, the skies opened. Taking shelter from the rain in that magnificent setting added to the sense of magic to the surroundings. Soon the rain abated and we made our way to Temple IV, the only temple that can be climbed. Fitted with a new wooden staircase, subtly hidden in the foliage adjacent to the temple, the climb was something of a challenge, but relatively easy and safe. At 212 feet, Temple IV is the tallest of Tikal's temples. From the top, the view over the canopy with several temples protruding from the carpet of green was spectacular. Back in Santa Elena, the location of our hotel, we changed out of our soggy clothes for an early New Year's Eve dinner. We had made a reservation at La Luna, reputedly one of the best restaurants in Flores. It did not disappoint, and since we were preparing for a 5:00 AM pick-up the following morning, for a change, we made this New Year's Eve an early night.

January 1, 2013
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Tikal Ruins

Tikal Ruins, Guatemala

We thought it would be a wonderful idea to begin the New Year by visiting Tikal just as it opened at 6:00 AM. However, when our alarm sounded at 4:00 AM, I will admit to having second thoughts. Nevertheless, we persevered, awoke the clerk at the desk of our hotel to retrieve our boxed breakfast, and met Noe who was waiting for us at 5:00. True to our plan, we arrived at Tikal just as it opened at 6:00. Walking through the now somewhat familiar area virtually by ourselves in the early morning mist was quite a special experience. We retraced our steps of the previous day, marveling in the quiet mystery and majesty. Taking advantage of our extra time, we went much farther afield, spending much more time at Temple V, the Plaza of the Seven Temples, and El Mundo Perdido. Noe was a font of information on the history and culture of the entire area. He also had a keen eye, calling to and pointing out various birds and monkeys and of course the plentiful coati. We saw a crocodile as well, but alas, no jaguar. After quite an extensive tour, we returned to our hotel to pack for the trip home. Once we were organized, we took a leisurely stroll through Flores, scoping out a place for out last Guatemalan meal. Our walk along the relatively new malecon was accompanied by an ever-evolving, lingering and stunning sunset. We ended the evening with quite a satisfying meal at Captain Tortuga, accompanied by several bottles of Gallo, the excellent Guatemalan beer.

January 2, 2013
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Guatemala City

Guatemala City, Guatemala

All too soon our trip came to an end, and it was time for an early-morning departure. This time, the desk clerk was awake, and our boxed breakfast was waiting. A quick shuttle courtesy of the ever-prompt ViaVenture driver brought us to the airport and our flight to Guatemala City. Knowing that we would have a very long wait for our connecting flights home, I came prepared with a most interesting book, The Long Night of the White Chickens, by the Guatemalan-American author Francisco Goldman. Getting through security was a somewhat frustrating, and mildly amusing (depending on one's mood) experience, as the security personnel did not seem to be especially well trained. They looked askance at my electric razor, but did let that pass. My small travel sewing kit, a small pair of tweezers, and a small container (under 3 ounces) of sun block, however, are now in some Guatemalan limbo. Once aboard, our flights home were uneventful and we are now happily reunited with our cats and blessed with fond memories of a wonderful trip to Guatemala.

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