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Passport to Patagonia

By : Jarm Del Boccio
Trip Begins January 17, 2012
Trip Ends January 26, 2012

What a breathtakingly beautiful area Patagonia is! It is a land of contrasts: with flat arid plains around Puerto Madryn and Peninsula Valdez and its penguin colonies and Estancias, to the awesome glaciers and otherworldly rock formations of El Calafate near the central western border of Argentina. At its southernmost tip are the enormous craggy mountain ranges and tranquil shores, and wooded islands found along the Beagle Channel. Amazing vistas met us at every turn on our trek through this never-to-be-forgotten region of God's world!
See my photos : Patagonia Trip

Want to go? Awesome Argentina, Peninsula Valdes

I went to: Argentina, Buenos Aires, Puerto Madryn, Peninsula Valdes, Rincon Chico, Ushuaia, Hosteria Linares, El Calafate, El Galpon del Glaciar, Perito Moreno Glacier, Reino del Plata, Patagonia, Puerto Williams
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January 17, 2012
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Don't Cry for Me Argentina!

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Our overnight flight to Buenos Aires (pronounced 'eye-rees'...I've been mispronouncing it all along), was uneventful, thank the Lord, so we were transported via taxi to our hotel, 'Reino del Plata'. We had time to freshen up before our 10am city tour, which was partially on foot, partially via van.

We are now the same latitude as Cape Town, South Africa...the farthest south any of us have ventured! Looking down, I could see patches of farmland in various shades of green, bordered by poplar trees. We discovered that the Argentines use the trees to define their property, and to protect it from the winds across the steppes.

Our guide, Carlos, took us to the square, around which the government buildings sat. We saw the 'pink house' (think, 'White House') or presidential palace, where many historical events have taken place. Of course, Eva Peron, president of Argentina, and dearly loved by the common people, carried on many political activities there, speaking to the throngs from the balcony. A half a century after Evita's death in the 50's, Madonna sang 'Don't Cry For Me Argentina' from the window of the President's office.

We then headed to a Cathedral dedicated to the Captain General of the Revolution, D Jose de San Martin. His body lies entombed inside, with military guards. The interior itself was magnificent, dressed in Carrera marble, intricate wood, and ceramic tile from Britain, laid in a Venetian pattern. It reminded Dan of a mini St. Peter's Cathedral in Rome.

Next on our agenda was the north harbor district of San Telmo, where emigrants, (Spanish, German and Italian, to name a few), landed, and soon built muli-leveled apartment complexes, in which to settle their families. All were brightly painted, and to this day, are well preserved. This is the community where the Tango dance originated.

The area was bustling with activity, with cafes, restaurants, and shops in abundance. They are known for their woven shawls and sweaters, mate cups and bombilla spoons (pronounced, 'bom-bee'-ja') which has a strainer attached at the bottom. Since the gourd or cup is filled at least halfway with mate, it is necessary to strain them, or one would suck up a mouthful of soggy leaves! The mate ceremony is done in a social setting, with one cup passed around, filled with hot water many times over. We hope to learn more of this tradition later.

Then we drove around the downtown area, very similar to Chicago, with it's tall buildings and waterfront. A beautiful aluminum flower was seen in a local park, whose petals would open in the morning, and close at night, activated by solar power! We passes by a specially designed white structure called, 'The Woman's Bridge.' Evidentially, it was thanks to Evita that the women of Argentina have the vote.

We stopped and toured an old cemetery, Recoleta, which had elegant old family tombs or mausoleums, standing side by side like row houses. Very similar in structure to those I saw in New Orleans years ago. Here was the tomb of Evita Duarte, along with her three sisters and one brother, who were illegitimate, and mistreated by her father, who was of the upper class. Which is why she helped the underdog during her rule. I couldn't stop snapping photos in this cemetery...the sculptures and details were outstanding.

Buenos Aires is the city of Revolution, excellent grilled meat and the Tango. Who would have known that the British controlled this area, too?! It amazes me that a tiny country such as Britain could have not only enough troops to conquer the world, but plenty of people to govern the colonies they ruled. Just goes to show what a nation can achieve when they are orderly and drink tea nonstop!

We then arrived back at the hotel, hungry and tired. As we needed to rise at 3:30am, it was necessary to turn in early. So, we found a restaurant called Las Remolinos, that served a savory grilled meat...just what we needed to fill our tummies and refresh us for the 15 block walk back to our hotel. Then, it was an early goodnight...up at 3:30am for a 4:30am trip to the aeropuerta!

January 18, 2012
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Mr. Popper's Penguins and High Tea

Puerto Madryn, Argentina

With about 6 hours of sleep, and lying flat, we had a much better rest than the night before. I can never sleep on a plane!

Our transportation arrived at 4:30am to drive us to the aeropuerta for our 6:50am flight to Trelew, our first destination in Patagonia.

I am too trusting of agencies and individuals, but knew better than to fail to remind our driver of our flight information. I assumed that he was well informed...NOT! We arrived at Terminal A, only to discover after our driver had left, that Aerolineas Argentinas took off from Terminal C. So, of course, I went into warp factor 10, and ran ahead to find our terminal. It ended up being a 5 minute walk, thanks to my high speed trailblazing efforts (which are not always appreciated), instead of the normal 15. My motto is: make every effort to get to your gate as quickly as possible, since one never knows the disruptions that lay ahead. It's better to be ahead of the game, instead of reaching the gate minutes before one boards, or worse yet, miss the flight.

Thankfully, we breezed through security with only a check of Mario's carry-on, and the frisking of the other three family members. But, nothing was confiscated. We arrived at our gate with plenty of time to stop for a hot drink at a kiosk.

I wish I could report everything went smoothly from that point on...not so! We sat on the Tarmac for about 40 minutes, with no explanation (at least not in English) as to why we were late. The flight to Trelew itself went smoothly, thankfully. Dan and I were assigned to an emergency exit, and were required to read the info and be able to assist if any trouble arose. A snack was offered, and in a few minutes, we were at the terminal. All our baggage was retrieved except for Mario's, which was worrisome, since our plane was going on to Calafate. After explaining the situation to a baggage agent, he took our claim tickets and proceeded to search for it. In the meantime, our tour guide, Marta, met us, and helped to navigate the system.

About 15 minutes later, the agent came back with the suitcase and a frown. . He had thought we lost all four of our pieces, so was not happy that he returned with only one! We, of course, clapped in appreciation (and thanked the Lord) that it was found!

Marta, an Argentine who is half Italian and half Czech, is vibrant, informed, and easygoing. Athletically built, tall, dark haired and deep voiced, she is what I imagined an Argentine woman would be like. We lost no time, and after a short explanation of our destination on an area map, we headed to the penguin colony in Punta Toombo, south of Puerta Madryn, the town where we will lodge tonight. Of course, it was along the shoreline, where these Magellan penguins could make their nests and find food.

Did you know that penguins will never meet polar bears? The latter live at the North Pole, while penguins are found in many countries in the Southern Hemisphere. The Magellan penguins are faithful to the nest and colony, and return year after year to the same place. They live about 30 years, and mature at age 5. The 'adolescent' penguins, who are close to maturity, gather along the shore to watch others, and teach the young to fish.

It's the male population that builds or rearranges (from the year before) the nest. When the female arrive, she chooses the male that has made the best 'home'. These nests can be a hole in the open ground, or dug under a scrub tree. If they check out a nest, and it doesn't meet their approval, off they go to find a more suitable one! The female then mates and lays up to two eggs, and then takes off to the sea to find food. The male remains to protect the chicks from predators, like snakes and birds of prey. The mother penguin feeds her young from food that has been regurgitated (and therefore easily digested) and deposited into their mouth. We heard chicks everywhere calling out to their parents with a constant braying sound...they were hungry continually!

As we walked the mile path through the reserve, there where penguins as far as the eye could see. Some huddled in groups, others standing independently with their faces to the sun, and at times, a single penguin would cross the road in front of us. We were asked to allow them to pass, and not to disturb their route.

Marta was telling us that the reserve allows the wildlife to live and die as nature intends, so, even if a penguin is sick or being attacked, they are to let them be. This was difficult for me to accept when we saw two chicks whose parents never returned from feeding, probably because they were killed by predators. The twins were waddling aimlessly across our path, obviously very weak from hunger. No other penguin will adopt the two, so there is no one to feed them. It was all I could do to resist the urge to take them with me! Very sad, but, 'tis true...another result of the Fall. It's comforting to know that there will be no death in Heaven.

Speaking of Heaven (on earth)...I have been so looking forward to our trip to Gaiman, the Welsh Colony near Trelew. It did not disappoint. I felt as though I had been transported to the British Isles for tea! Marta told us about how the colony came to be. Think: The Pilgrim's Story. The Welsh were persecuted by England, because they would not tolerate anyone who would not worship in the Anglican church. Since the Welsh were Methodist and Baptist, they were not accepted. They also demanded that everyone speak English, but the Welsh wanted to continue speaking their language. So, they sailed first to America, but, they began again to lose their unique language and culture. So they sailed south, along the Atlantic, until they found a port that would support them. About 153 Welsh settled in and first built a church for their community. The Indians helped them survive the first year...they traded with them, and taught them to hunt for food and plant seeds. (Sound familiar?). They taught the Indians to read and write. They were the first successful colony in Patagonia. Between 1865 and 1911, 3,000 Welsh families emigrated to Argentina successfully.

We came to Gaiman for high tea at the Ty Te Caerdy'dd, which translates 'Tea house of the Rising Sun'. The grounds were idyllic, filled with rose bushes of all colors. Princess Diana paid a visit here for high tea in the 80's as a good will gesture, since Argentina was at odds with England over the Malvines or Faukland Islands. Since her title was 'Princess of Wales' she was the perfect ambassador. Evidently, she picked a rose from the garden, and then sat down for tea. The establishment was so enamored with her that they saved her rose, the place setting, including the cup and saucer and spoon, (complete with tea stain), and the chair she sat in as a memorial of her visit.

I, of course, had been looking forward to this visit for many months. This was the day that I would allow Olivia and myself to break our 9 month diet. Was it worth it! The tea was smooth and flavorful, reminiscent of the British Breakfast variety I have tasted overseas. The homemade bread an butter, raisin scones, various cakes and fruit slices, along with two dulce de leche (Argentinian version) made the experience a delight for all...even Mario!

We drove over an hour back to Puerto Madryn where we were lodging overnight, and spent the early evening looking for Mate gourds and bobillas, along with a woolen shawl for souvenirs. No luck on the first two, but successful with the third, thanks to Dan!

Back to the hotel, and ready for a good night's sleep. Ta Ta for now!

January 19, 2012
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Could This Be Paradise? Or, 'Home, Home on the Range...'

Peninsula Valdes, Argentina

We began our journey to see the Elephant Seals at 7:30am. Marta met us at Bahia Nueva, our hotel, along with our driver, Ignacio, and began our drive to Peninsula Valdez. We stopped at the Puerto Piramides Visitor's Center, where Marta explained showed us the many charts of flora and fauna we would see on the Peninsula. All the creatures are adaptable to the steppe environment, which is very similar to Texas. Dry, windy flat land, a few scrub brushes, days without rain; all suggest a 'home on the range' environment. So, Piche, (hairy armadillos), Zorro Gris, (grey fox), Guanaco, (similar to llamas and drink salt water), Maras , (a funny hare that looks and runs like a small deer), and Choique (Darwin's Rhea or Ostrich) all find their home here. Most of them burrow in the ground or a cliff-side for safety at night.

I noticed during a quick 'banos' stop, that a sign in the stall made it clear that we were to put our toilet paper in the toilet bowl. No big deal, you say? In Colombia and Argentina, we are required to put our TP after use in a garbage can, since the septic system cannot handle the paper. In some cases, there IS no paper. I have since learned to carry my own in a pocket.

Near the gift shop, was what appeared to be a water heater, painted red with a logo. I discovered that this was a 'mate' station where the locals could fill their thermos with water that is exactly 80 degrees C or 177 degrees F...just below the boiling point so as not to burn the tea leaves.

There is a certain protocol for preparing the yerba (pronounced 'zher-ba') mate. Not only does the water need to be a set temperature, but the leaves must fill about 2/3 of the small gourd, then, with your hand over the top, shaken back and forth, so the dust sticks to your palm. It is then blown from the palm, the cup tipped on it's side, and a well dug to one side with your finger. The water is slowly trickled into the well, until it reaches half way up. This is the time you place your bobilla (pronounced 'bom-BEE-zha') gently into the well, so as not to disturb the leaves. From this point, you are NEVER to stir the bombilla (strainer spoon) in the cup...bad manners...nor are you to slurp!

We arrived at the point where the sea lions lived, near the ocean, on a rocky outcropping of land. They made a loud hoarse braying sound, almost constantly. Thankfully, we were not up close, because they stink! We observed them from a high cliff as they basked in the sun. A few males, who had the typical 'mane' had their heads and necks raised to the sky. Occasionally, we would see two of them fighting. Not long after we arrived, Marta pointed out an area on the rock with a red stain. We were thrilled to discover a female who had just given birth to a baby. The placenta was still attached, but, because of the distance, could not take a close up. What a privilege it was to witness this event!

Did you know that the animal we see in the circus playing with a ball and clapping its hands is NOT a seal but a sea lion? An elephant seal is a true seal, because it's body undulates as it moves forward. A sea lion uses its flippers like hands to move forward. Interesting...

We then drove to Estancia La Elvira (think: Ranch) near Caleta Valdes where there was a reserve and nature path. We walked along the shore, where we read numerous signs about the flora and fauna. Plants with prickly leaves, well-suited for the environment were found in abundance, along with the occasional tiny lizard which crossed our path. One fascinating but macabre insect was a large wasp with a 3 inch black body, 5 inch wingspan, and striking reddish-orange wings. It's habit is to sting and paralyze a tarantula, drag it to its underground habitat, lay an egg in the abdomen of the the tarantula, where the larva feeds when it hatches. Remember that the sting only paralyzed the tarantula, and not kills it, so the young wasp has plenty of 'fresh' food to eat. So, the larva literally eats the body of the tarantula as it dies a slow death. Marta agreed that even though she and I hate spiders, they don't deserve this fate!

After a quick trip to a lighthouse where we overlook a beautiful coastline where elephant seals were basking (they look like beached whales), we headed to the Estancia Rincon Chico or 'Little Corner' Ranch, called such because it is located in the SE corner of Peninsula Valdez. Augustin and Maria are fifth generation Argentines originating from the Basque region of Spain (near France). This thirty something couple owns and runs the 14,000 acre Estancia or Ranch that houses up to 16 people comfortably. The wide open spaces, fresh air and solitude (they are five miles from the road) was most welcomed and enjoyed. We felt our bodies relax and our spirits rise as we were greeted at the door by the owners. After a fond farewell to Marta, and the arrangement with Ignacio of a return trip tomorrow to the aeropuerta, we sat down to Maria's homemade meal in a spacious sunlit dining room. The hall and living room were filled with old family photos, fossils found on the property, and many cultural artifacts and weapons.

Of interest were the ancient boleadora balls made of stone that the gauchos of the past used to knock down or kill various animals. It looks like a sling with three ropes, each having a ball at the end. Evidently, one is used to hit the head, two to wrap around the neck, and three to wrap around the legs of an animal to trip it.

The meal was first rate...we figured Maria attended cooking school, and we were right! We soon settled down for an hours rest, before Augustin arrived with his jeep to take us down to the beach (still his property) to get a closeup look at the elephant seals. It took a good 20 minutes to drive to the location where we would get out and walk. Augustin opened and closed three gates on the way there. On foot, we walked for a good 30 minutes down to the beach where six or seven elephant seals lay in the sun to molt. Two were seen bobbing in the water. The seals do not eat while here, only molt. Their home is farther afield, in the ocean where they find shrimp to eat.

We were tickled to be only a few yards from them at one point. Augustin warned us to 'lay low' so the seals did not feel threatened. Four were laying in a pile on top of each other, evidently to rub off their old layer of skin. I was able to get some amazing shots of the creatures. At certain angles, they were actually cute! Sideways, one could see the males ugly elephant nose.

We were told that whales, dolphins and sea lions have separate brain hemispheres for sleep and awake time. So, when they are in the ocean, they can actually have a rest and be awake at all times. You can tell which side of the brain is awake by locating the nostril that is flaring.

Returning to the car, Augustin gave us more info about his Estancia. He and Maria own 14,000 acres of land, divided into 10 pastures, or areas, each holding a different age bracket of sheep. One held one year olds, another, two year olds, a third, adolescents, another, males, and still another, ewes with their young. They raise Merino sheep for wool, and the going rate for the wool depends on the market year in Australia, which is the standard. An interesting note: Benetton, the woolen store, owns 2 1/2 million acres in Patagonia for their sheep!

After the ride home, we had about an hour to freshen up, connect to the Internet, and charge our batteries. The estancia runs on a generator which is usually turned on from 7:30pm to 10pm. No worries, I said...I was used to that in New Guinea!

The dinner of chicken, squash and potatoes was scrumptious, and when the meal was over (Argentines eat late), it was time to turn in to the cosy bed prepared for us. What a blessing this 20 hour stay has been for us. A bit of Paradise discovered on the Patagonian steppe!

January 20, 2012
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Paradise Lost, the End of the World Discovered!

Ushuaia, Argentina

We reluctantly left the Estancia Rincon Chico at 10am when Ignacio arrived to take us to town. The night was cool, with a gorgeous sunset. The power was off, so the air was still and silent. I slept better last night than I have in a long time!

We drove to Puerto Madyrn, where we had lunch and wandered through the shops. I was in a precarious position, since I had only 6% power left on my iPad, and no Internet connection to download my photos. We stopped at a cafe for a hot drink, but, to my disappointment, they had no place to charge my pad, nor a true connection to access my email. I try to take every opportunity to connect so I can update the journal each day.

We arrived at the airport in good time, only to discover our flight was delayed one hour due to Buenos Aires, where our flight originated. I tried to charge my computer there, but alas, they had a different configuration plug. Dan said God just didn't want me to connect that day! I sadly agreed, but was revived when he told me I could download the photos on his iPad instead. Hubby to the rescue!

Our flight finally came for us, but again, Mario's bag was checked by security. Something fishy about that boy! The flight to Ushuaia was a bit turbulent, but we arrived safely. The short flights disembark the passengers the old way, down aluminum steps to the ground. The minute we stepped foot out of the plane, we were met by a cold blast of air. Tall, sharp granite-like mountains of enormous proportions surrounded us, and Mario commented that we landed on a strip of land in the bay!

We had come from a flat steppe in the Peninsula Valdez to a mountainous region reminding me of Alaska. We were truly at the end of the known world. Only the Antarctic, 400 miles to the south was beneath us! I had forgotten what happens to the day night cycle this far south. Walter, our driver, told us that the sun goes down at 10:30pm, and up at 4:30am. Eerie!

The fresh air was invigorating, but, it was time to go to bed. Our Hostel Linnarias is charming, and a promising goodnight is at hand.

January 21, 2012
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The Footprints of God at the Fin del Mundo!

Tierra del Fuego

We were picked up this morning by our guide via bus, and during our 40 minute ride, were treated to the Yerba Mate ceremony. Well, we watched it. ;A middle aged couple brought their Mate backpack, thermos, cup and bobilla to share with the driver and guide at the front of the bus. When we were well on the way, he poured the Yerba Mate into the cup (really a pumpkin gourd), poured hot water from the thermos into the cup slowly, and only a few ounces because the cups are small. He then put the metal straw, or, bombilla into the cup, and took 4 slow sips about 3-5 minutes apart. He then filled it with a few more ounces of hot water, and handed it to his wife. She sipped in the same way, then handed it back to her husband, who filled it with water, and passed it to the guide. When he finished, he handed it back to the owner again to be filled with hot water, and passed to the driver. This went on for close to forty minutes, never changing the Yerba leaves or touching the bombilla...only filling with hot water. I was mesmerized! When the couple heard later that I liked Mate they were amazed that an American would drink it! He apologized for not sharing with me.

Valentin, our guide, showed us the Flag tree, that is blown by the NE winds so strongly and often, that it is disfigured permanently. They looked like something from Lord of the Rings! Then, on to Harberton Estancia, which was the starting point of our day's exploration. Thomas Bridges was an Englishman found under a bridge and adopted (thus, his name). When he was an adult, he came to the southernmost tip of Argentina to evangelize the native people, the Yamanas, and teach them to read and write. While doing so, he developed a 32,000 word English-Yamana dictionary. The British army wanted information from the natives, who knew and mapped the land. So, in exchange for communication between the military, the natives and Bridges, the latter received the 35,000 acre land that became Harberton Estancia. We toured the museum in his honor, and enjoyed his garden of Lupines, now so common in Patagonia.

We took a zodiac (large rubber canoe) through the Beagle Channel, first to see the cormorants nesting on the rocks, and then a quick stop to see the penguins. Then, we disembarked at Gable Island, ready for our trek. The path was worn, but narrow and uneven, so it made the walk a challenge. Along the way, we saw the Yamana Indians mound or archeological remains. They lived under a canopy of sea lion skins with a fire always going in the center. Even their boats had a constant fire because, believe it or not, the natives were naked. Because the weather was always rainy and cold, and their clothing wet from fishing in the water and on shore, it was impossible to keep them dry. They found it easier to go without, and always have a source of heat nearby. They would through their mussel shells out of their shelter, and soon, the ground around their huts would be covered with mounds of garbage. Hard to believe!

Tierra del Fuego or Land of Fire, the island on which the southernmost city of Argentina lies, was named so because explorers would see the Yamana's fires burning all day and night. They thought there was volcanic action in the area, hence, the name. When the British, who were fairly short, came face to face with one of the Indians, they seemed like giants (two meters tall or 6 feet) with big feet, because they wrapped them in seal skin. Pata means feet, so the explorers named the area Patagonia, or the land of the big footed creatures.

Our walk, although a quick steady pace, was broken up by stops to learn more of the flora and fauna. We saw the results of the overpopulation of beavers...many trees destroyed by their gnawing, and trees flooded out because the dams they created stopped the flow of the river.

We saw the Winter's Bark tree, that reminded me of a rhododendron, whose vitamin C content would percent scurvy among the sailors. Many of the trees sported old man's beard moss, which the trees saw as an invader. They would create nodes, later called Darwin's nodes to protect themselves from the lichen.

Sometimes, along the path, we would come near the shore, were we found sulfured rocks the color of a Yellow School bus, and seaweed under our feet. A few minutes later, we would be walking through a field, or hanging on for dear life as we encountered the wind at the summit of a mountain. We were all very happy to find a shelter prepared for us at the end of the three hour trek, with a home cooked meal of fish, pumpkin and potatoes.A meal never tasted so good...and we worked for it!

Then, it was back home. We walked into town for dinner, looked in the shops, and, by 10:30pm, the sun had set. It was shocking to look down at our watches and find it almost ten o'clock, and still broad daylight. It took some getting used to!

January 22, 2012
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Awesome Views at Every Turn...

Hosteria Linares, Ushuaia

I don't like to use the word 'awesome' unless it is talking about God's creation, because, truthfully, only His works can be described as such. In this case, and many times on this trip, the word fit perfectly.

Today, like yesterday, we walked up, we walked down, we walked over and around and through. Actually, trekking is a better word. The weather changed so quickly and so often during our excursion, that our routine went like this: zip up, button up, hood up, face the wind. Sun out, unzip, unbutton, off come the earmuffs, take off fleece. This scenario played out at least once every 20 minutes to keep us on our toes.

Norbie, our guide, met us at the Linaris Hostel where we have been staying the last two nights. It reminds us of a Swiss chalet...very charming with antiques of all kinds throughout the facility. I had decided to take my Yerba Mate cup and a thermos with me, so when I ascended the motorbus steps, the two guides and driver all commented at once about an American drinking mate, how amazing that was, and maybe I should sit at the front of the bus to share. It was a hoot!

We rode for about 30 minutes, and then gained entrance to the Tierra del Fuego National Park. After a restroom break, we gathered at the map so Norbie could give us the instructions for the days events. He was a real joker all throughout the trip, suggesting we needed a helicopter to pick us up, and oh, by the way, order a pizza, too! He encouraged us to work as a team or family, and keep together. At one point, he described the three types of hikers. The Japanese (and we had a couple with us), walk a few short steps, take a photo, few more steps, another photo, etc. The Italian, he said, strolls along looking at the birds, taking his time, enjoying the sun, etc. The American, on the other hand, asks what time we were to be at the end point, and proceeds to look at his watch and take off at a quick pace, not looking at anything, keeping his eye on goal! I assured him we would be somewhere in between.

By the way, we learned a few facts on our way that are unique to the area. If one stands with the sun at his back, he will always be facing south in this part of the world. The Pan-American highway goes from Ushuaia the southernmost city in the world, all the way to Alaska. Many have done it by car, motorbike, and even bicycle. Evidently the latter took four years!

The scenery was truly awesome, and we had quite a few breaks to enjoy it. The fresh air was almost too much for my lungs...it's the first time I can remember being able to take a full breath of air without effort, even at this altitude. The path was quite challenging, as we walked over tree roots, rocks and gravel surfaces. We came across wayward horses from nearby estancias (ranches) that left their piles of dung all over the trail. We had to watch our step! I was so thankful to find a good strong stick to help me along the trail, which definitely helped me navigate the uneven trail.

The inlets and bays were breathtaking, and at each bend there seemed to be a more awesome view that the one before. Finally, when we thought we could walk no more, the trail ended at a campground, were we had a few appetizers, and grilled chicken with salad for the main meal. Everyone was famished, so we all ate with gusto. It was good to talk with our Argentinean, Italian and Portuguese fellow hikers. They knew more English that we knew Spanish!

As we took a bathroom break before venturing out on a canoe ride, we walked among the Sunday campers in the park. It was humorous to hear various types of music blaring from the car radios at the campsites...each one was different. I heard rock and roll, salsa, love songs, etc within my 3 minute walk to the banos!

It was time for our canoe trip, so we gathered at the river for instruction, then donned our rubber boots and waterproof pants. We divided into groups, got into the three canoes, and set off for our adventure. We were in the Beagle Channel, the river and a lake, all within an hour and a half. We saw little wildlife, but there were many people in the park fascinated with our journey. I felt like a celebrity as folks waved and took photos from the shore. At one point, the water level was too low, so we got out, and carried our canoe, or portaged, just as the Indians would have done. We had to duck under a bridge, and when we entered a larger body of water, the winds were fierce, so we paddled for dear life, and arrived at the shore first. Team America (the Del Boccios, our guide, and an Italian couple) had won the race!

Tired but happy, we arrived back at the bus, and rested on our way back to the hostel. We said our goodbyes, and after freshening up, went out on the town for dinner. The shops were still open at 9:30pm, and it was still light, so again, we fell asleep after midnight. It will be good to be home where our internal clocks will be reset. Chau for now!

January 23, 2012
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A Day of Travel, a Day to Celebrate!

Tierra del Fuego

Today we had downtime to do a little souvenir shopping, and have a bite to eat. This is a special day to celebrate...it's Mario's 16th birthday! Although there is not much going on today, other than travel, we enjoyed a relaxing day. Mario was promised a special gift of his choice from a souvenir shop in honor of his birthday.

We took the long cement stairs down to the main shopping avenue, San Martin (it seems every city has a street named after the hero of the revolution). It's easier to descend than to ascend! First to look for a penguin statue made of pink stone native to Argentina, then to look for an ibis clip (all the ladies wear them to keep their long hair in place), and last to the supermarket for Yerba mate and Alfajores, a dessert made with two butter cookies filled with dulce de leche, or sweet carmel filling, then dipped in chocolate. Success! It was then time to have a bite to eat, which has been a challenge of Olivia and me. Normally, we try to order a salad, telling the waitress which veggies we would like, which oil to use, etc. Today, using my few Spanish words, and lots of hand motions and pointing, I described (so I thought) what we wanted. A few minutes later, out came some of the veggies, and many more that I did not ask for, nor could we eat! So, Dan and Mario enjoyed some canned corn, peas and palm hearts with their pizza.

The hotels were not notified by the Argentine agency of our special diet request. The last three mornings, we had to eat nuts and apples that we purchase, because the breakfast was all bakery goods, canned meat and cheeses. They did have a great selection of teas, and were very happy to oblige when I asked them for a thermos of hot water for our Yerba! The nationals carry their mate cups, Yerba, and thermos of water in a specially designed backpack wherever they travel...a redefinition of 'to go' beverages! By the way, you would assume there would be Yerba cafes everywhere. Not a chance...they either carry it with them, or, drink it socially at home. Go figure! They can't imagine anyone but their own people would drink the bitter but healthful drink anyway.

We were finally packed and transported to the Ushuaia airport at 2pm. The flight to El Calafate was delayed, which is a common occurrence on Aerolineas Argentinas, we were told, because of the wind patterns bringing in ash from the Chilean volcano eruption a couple of years ago. There is a possibility that the ash could clog the engines during the flight. Funny, our driver said, that it never seems to delay the other airlines, such as LAN. Ours, evidently has a reputation for being late, and sure enough, all four of our flights were delayed from 30 minutes to almost an hour!

The plane took off, even on this cloudy and rainy day. As we ascended, the plane made a complete circle, wing down, in order to climb out of the valley surrounded by jagged mountains. We had a perfect view of the little peninsula that held our airstrip...reminded me of the crazy locations of our tiny airstrips in New Guinea. The mountains, forests, wind, rugged coasts and waterways at the 'Fin del Mundo' were left behind.

The short, one and a half hour flight was smooth, and soon we were landing in El Calafate. This is the land of the glaciers, which we will climb tomorrow. Looking out our plane window, we saw miles of flat plains, similar to Texas, with mountains surrounding the plains, most without snow, but two to the west were covered with it. Odd... It reminded me of the surface of a planet in some respects.

Backpedalling with a bit of info: The first tour we took to see the penguins on Penninsula Valdez, was taken on a cloudy day. Being warned ahead of time, but forgetting to apply sunscreen, I was badly sunburned to the point that my skin began to develop small bumps. Thankfully, I had my lavender oil, which seemed to help. Hopefully, I will remember the sunscreen tomorrow, since the glare from the glaciers will be intense.

Our taxi driver took us for miles and miles it seemed, to our destination...El Galpon (shed) de Glaciars. He passed through the town, passed the shops, until there was nothing but land and sky. I wondered where he was taking us, and was a little disappointed that it was so far from town. Finally, a group of buildings came into view. Yes! It was another estancia...and this time, the view was more spectacular than Rincon Chico. We had the mountains surrounding us, Lake Argentina below us, and miles of stunning landscape. Thank you, Lord! Can it get any better???

Until tomorrow!

January 24, 2012
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Paradise Redefined...a Gift from God

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

Well, this estancia is breathtaking...and the air, fresh and invigorating. The girls (most from Buenos Aires), who spend 7 months a year running the place for the owners, are so polite and helpful! Two young ladies named Carolina, and one, Cecilia, arranged all our transport, made sure our dietary needs were met, and kept us well informed as to the day's happenings.

Remember when I said that it couldn't get any better? Well, it did! Last night, we were informed by a couple staying at the estancia about the stunning sunsets that occur in this area. So, cameras in hand, about 10pm, we began to study the sky. Sure enough, an awesome display began. First colors, then artistic patterns appeared above us. I couldn't take enough photos...I hope you can appreciate them!

The second exciting event was being told that our package included a tour, sheep shearing demonstration, and Argeninian barbecue and tango dance that evening...would we wish to participate? It was a unanimous, 'Si!'

We prepared ourselves for the glacier excursion, since the bus would arrive around 9:15am. An enormous tour bus (which we have not ridden on this entire trip) arrived to take us to the Perito Moreno State Park. The drive was scenic, but long, and included a banos stop and payment of the $20 park fee (the kids were free). We then rode to the place where a small craft would take us to the other side of the lake, where the glacier trek awaited us. Before we arrived, as we were curving around the mountains, we could only see a small part of the mountain full of snow, where we would find the ice formation. At one point, a beautiful Argentine song was heard over the loud speaker. The woman sang with pathosfilled with pathos, and tho' I didn't understand the words, it was powerful. Just then, the glacier came into view. It was so magnificent and stunning, that my eyes filled with tears. I could barely contain myself!

We boarded the vessel, and snapped photos all the way across. When we arrived, we were told where to put our backpacks and lunches, and reminded to wear gloves, in case we fell on the ice. Our guide pointed out various things of interest on the map of the glacier, then we sat while the staff attached our crampons, metal attachments with teeth, similar to a bear trap, which would give us stability and adherence on the ice. Keep your feet apart (otherwise we might stab ourselves in the foot), stomp as you walk, and keep your shoulders over your hips. This last instruction proved to be difficult, since one has the tendency to lean forward going up the glacier, and back, going down. I felt like an angry, bowlegged gaucho or cowboy as I walked!

We saw folks many hundreds of feet above us on the trail, but when I asked our guide if we would trek that high, his answer was non-committal. I wasn't sure if he needed to know the conditions of the trail first, or if he thought I would be frightened of the altitude. Amazingly, I was not intimidated. Normally, I am afraid of heights, but my spirit was calm.

Occasionally, on the way up, the guide would 'blaze the trail' by widening the path with his mountain climbing pick axe. The other guide would help those who were more timid (which included me at first), or those (like me) who would lag behind taking photos. I think he was so fed up with having to remind me to keep close to the group so he could help if needed, that he put me at the front of the line! We stopped every so often to snap a photo, or to wait for others to catch up.

Occasionally, we heard a gunshot-like sound coming from the glaciers, which warned us of an impending calving (breaking off) of a portion of the glacier wall closest to the water. It was my dream to catch it on video, but, it was not to be.

As we trekked, digging in with our feet, grabbing hold of the icy surface for stability, and keeping our backs straight, I thought of a spiritual analogy. If we dig into God's Word, and grab hold of the truths we find there, we can lean back on His promises, and find stability in our lives. We can't go through life on our own...we need His help!

At the end of our journey, we were offered Whiskey on ice, or pure glacier spring water, with Alfajores. It was a no-brainer for us, but it was curious how others chose something manmade and potentially dangerous in exchange for the refreshing and healthful gift of pure water.

We soon had lunch, and took the ride back to the bus, which took us to the lookout point to view north end of the glaciers...wow! Spectacular! Still no sign of calving glaciers, but I was more than content with the outstanding experience we had throughout the day. This has been the nicest string of clear days for a long time, we were told, and it almost always rains at the glaciers, so, we were truly blessed!

Tired, but content, we were taken back to the estancia two hours later than expected. I was disappointed that we had missed the tea, tour of the estancia, and the sheep herding demonstration, but we were able to hook up with the group and witness the sheep shearing, now done on the estancia with electric shearers.

If an estancia is to make money raising sheep for wool, they need over 10,000 sheep, and more than 2.5 acres per sheep for the business (and sheep) to survive. They need to be sheared, no matter what, twice a year. Once in spring, so they don't get too heavy and fall, and in the winter, especially around the eyes, so they can find their food in the harsh weather. The gauchos, whom the owners of the estancia hire to do the work, come from the NE of Argentina, near Iguassu Falls, and migrate south, arriving in Patagonia in December, which is the latest a sheep's wool needs to be cut.

The group watched in amazement, as the gaucho sheared the sheep with the electric clippers in about three minutes. That alone is worthy of comment, but, what was more notable was the fact that the wool was shorn and removed all in one piece!

It was time for our scrumptious barbecue, which included all the lamb and salad you could eat, along with roasted potatoes, squash, and onions. They served empanadas filled with beef and green pepper. Olivia and I split one, and discovered it was worth every bite!

Flan or egg custard with burnt sugar sauce was served for dessert, and then the cultural dancing began, which included, of course, a tame version of the Tango. We left very satisfied, and headed off to catch up on emails and journaling before the power (and thus, WiFi) went out in the lobby.

One last night in the solitude of the estancia. We were the only lodgers left in a 20 room hostel...the environment, air and fresh water has revived our souls!

January 25, 2012
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Paradise Left and Homeward Bound...

Reino del Plata, Buenos Aires

Traveling is becoming a chore for us.  It occurred to me last night, that by the end of our journey, we will have taken 10 flights in a little over two weeks, two of which are red-eye, overnight specials.  Ugh!  As we were complaining, I reminded the others that many years ago, it would have taken weeks, or maybe months to reach our destination via boat or horseback, had we not had the benefit of the modern airplane.  This was certainly the better choice.  But, it's a small price to pay for the beauty we have seen and the things we have experienced!

This morning, we took a quick trip to El Calafate (15 minute taxi ride) to do last minute souvenir shopping.  The town was quaint, with lots of shops.  There was one, called, 'La Casa del Gaucho' or the House of the Cowboy, which had many hand make items and western style Estancia clothing.  I found a nice pair of comfortable slipper made from porcupine skin!

Another surprise part of our package deal was a 1 1/2 hour trail ride through the estancia.  We were thrilled...especially Olivia, who like I, enjoy horses.  So, we saddled up with our specially chosen animals, and waited for instruction.  Although the method of riding  was western, the saddle was similar to an English variety; smaller and more compact.  It was covered with a thin wool pillow, which made the ride more comfortable.  As we were waiting on our horses, we noticed a small reddish brown hound-like dog the guide called a celty.  He was nervous and on the move, and couldn't stand still for the anticipation of following us on the trail.  He would sit, he would get up and run under the fence, into the barn, near the horses and back.  Then sit for thirty seconds, get up and bark, and follow the same routine, over and over until the four of us were out of the corral and on the road.  'Kalla' was a scamp.   He would run ahead of us, and chase the birds, sometimes the sheep, and towards the end, a horse grazing in the field. This dog is great fodder for a picture book!

With great difficulty I depart from the El Galpon Estancia.  I will miss the serenity of this windswept property...an unexpected stay in an earthly paradise!

It was soon time to leave for the airport, so we did some last minute packing, said our goodbyes to Carolina and Cecilia, and took the taxi towards town.  The kids were so exhausted they fell asleep on my shoulder.  We arrived in good time, but faced numerous lines for checking, paying airport tax, and going through security.  As usual, Aerolinas Argentinas was late again, so we arrived in Buenos Aires 45 minutes late.  By the time we checked into our hotel, it was close to 10:30 pm, but Olivia and I could not sleep on an empty stomach.  So, we found a restaurant at the corner that offered a satisfying beef and chicken shish-ke-bob for two, with a side salad.  For an Argentine, eating at 11 pm was no big deal, but for us, it was a novelty as well as a necessity!

It was midnight before we turned in.  Our wakeup call came at 3:45 am, and the taxi at 4:45 am, to escort us to yet another flight, so our rest was brief.  I am finally weary of travel, and look forward to our few days with the Dubberlys in Bogota. Over and out!

January 26, 2012
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Another Day of Travel...Farewell to our Life of Adventure!

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Everything went fairly smoothly through security and customs, so we had time to relax at the gate for an hour before boarding our 6 hour flight Avianca flight to 
Bogota.  Other than a few minutes of turbulence, it was an uneventful flight, and we arrived on schedule.

We were so relieved to see Mike waiting for us at the gate.  His was a friendly face, instead of a foreign one holding a sign that read, 'Del Boccio Family.'
Although we have been pleased with our drivers and guides in Argentina, there is nothing like a familiar face when one is weary at the end of the trail!

It was good to see the Dubberlys again, but, after a bite to eat, we hit the sack, totally exhausted, with scenes from our fabulous trip dancing in our heads.

I must end with a note about the Adventure Life travel agency with whom we booked our fabulous expedition.  Although the Argentine agency, 'Kallpa' (with whom Adventure Life worked in tandem) skipped a few beats with our diet details, on the whole, the tour was seamless.  Our favorite guide was Marta in Puerto Madryn, who was extremely knowledgeable and accommodating.  We hated to see her go!  Norbie, in Ushuaia, was our second favorite.  His jokes along the trail kept us going when the going got tough.

But, the ultimate kudos go to the Adventure Life team in Montana.  Monica was the first contact we had with the company.  She was very friendly and helpful in the process of putting together our Patagonian package to suit our needs, always willing to tweak things where she could.  

Lucas with Exito travel, helped us to find just the right flights to fit our pocketbook, and quickly took us through the process of purchasing the tickets, after waiting for the prices to lower a bit.

Jenny J was assigned to us next, and answered question after question about our trip details, from the type of boots we should bring, to which hotels carried shampoo and hair dryers.  And then, while we were overseas, she continued to be so patient with my many questions about hotel transfers and diet requirements.  Jenny always returned my emails the same day, when possible.  I always knew things were under control back at the office, which reflected on our trip within Argentina.

Then there was Sullivan, who helped here and there when the others were not available. I was able to chat with her online in Argentina when I needed assistance with my journal and photos. She was a wonderful, all around, knowledgeable gal.

Lastly, but certainly not least, was my hero, Lynessa, who painstakingly added all my photos to our journal each day, since my iPad did not support that feature.  Some days, I downloaded and sent over 30 photos, which would pop into our online album the very next day, thanks to Lynessa!  Even during the Missoula snowstorm, it took her only 36 hours to get back on track at the office...amazing!

All in all, Adventure Life did a fantastic job of keeping us informed, answering our plethora of questions, and communicating with the Argentine agency.  Never once did I sense impatience or frustration with our constant barrage of emails!  I know God lead us to them for a reason...thank you, each and every one who played a part in making this one of our most incredible family journeys!

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