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Spanish Virgin Islands Cruise on the Arabella

By : marilynne bradley
Trip Begins April 18, 2010
Trip Ends April 25, 2010

We embarked to the Spanish Virgin Islands on the Arabella. This was the most relaxing cruise we have ever had.
See my photos : Spanish Virgin Islands Cruise on the Arabella

Want to go? Arabella: Spanish Virgin Islands

I went to: Caribbean, U.S. Virigin Islands, British Virgin Islands, Spanish Virgin Islands, Culebra, Vieques
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April 18, 2010
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Sunday

Red Hook, St. Thomas

Never plan ahead on timing of Airlines. The schedule will change the day before.The flight was full with a bumpy ride the last hour. Taking the escalator to the next concourse my carry-on suitcase fell back and caused me to tumble upside down. I quickly reversed my direction and continued on my way. We foraged for pizza during the interim between planes. Our friends, the Brooks, met us at the next gate. It’s raining in Miami. Flight to St. Thomas was uneventful.

The Brooks joined us and others for a 30 min cab ride to Red Hook . $30 per couple. We are on time, 3:30pm, to board the Arabella. The crew greeted us and remembered us from to our cruise in December. We settle in our cabin 16, the largest on board. Debbie becomes captain in place of Sandy and lectures on the proceedings of the trip.

We sail into Caneel Bay, St. John for dinner at the Equator at Sugar Mill overlookinig the bay. The wooden structure is a modern version of an open umbrella with ribs of beams holding up the roof. The ruins of the sugar mills are silhouetted against the sunset. Wonderful meal of selected dishes similar to our first dining experience.

April 19, 2010
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Monday

Vieques

A beautiful sunny morning greets us for a sail past the island of St. John. A large breakfast of omelets, bacon, rolls, fruit are served at 8am. Coffee and assorted rolls and bread were ready at 6am. We manage a 5 1/2 hour sail to Esperanza Vieques,Puerto Rico (Spanish Virgin Islands), 7 miles east of Puerto Rico. The island was once used for target practice and other military maneuvers by the Armed Services. In 2003 the Dept. of Fish and Wildlife took over to preserve the island.

We tie up to the ruins of a pier. The day is partly cloudy. Local children are jumping and diving into the bay of grassy bottomed water and playing under the dock. To the right is a sandy beach covered with seaweed. We walk into town, An Esplanade by the sea leads us into a typical tourist town of bars/restaurants and T-shirt shops. Trash is piled everywhere. The shoddy row of businesses should change with the coming of new tourism. Citizens are very friendly and greet us with a nod and a hello.The son of a candidate running for Presidente, Victor shook our hands. It is said wild horses roam about the island. We saw one horse led by a rider. Hoof prints were on the sand.

As I was washing of my feet with a hose on deck. My glasses fell overboard and Rick, the deck hand, gallantly dived deep to retrieve them. A nice hot shower was a welcome relief.

A fantastic dinner of BBQ Ribs, Chicken, slaw, corn was prepared by the crew and Chef John.

The highlight of the day came after sundown. We are scheduled to visit Bioluminescent Bay. The dingy brought the passengers to land to board a dilapidated school bus. This bus is as rundown as a vehicle can be. Seats are broken. windows gone. Empty beer bottles on the floor collide with each other under the seats. Springs are not working. A bumpy ride ensued on a single dirt road through the woods with limbs scratching the sides and leaving racing stripes of lines from the direct hits of the trees. At the end of the road is the pond full of illuminating protozoa. A trip into the bay on a balmy night is a magical experience. We board an electrically powered pontoon boat with side seats through the waters of Puerto Mosquito. The night clear with a crescent moon to guide us. A guide explains the fragile ecology of the plants and animals of the bay, gives interpretive star lectures with a powerful laser pointer, and then parks the boat in an area of high bioluminescent concentration, giving visitors the chance to swim with the millions of glowing creatures.These half-plant, half-animal organisms emit a flash of bluish light when agitated at night. A return trip by bus dumps us off near the pier. Clouds suddenly gathered and open up with a burst of rain drenching us before we have a chance to board the ship.

April 20, 2010
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Tuesday

Isla de Culebra

The night is disturbed by the sloshing of water under the cabin. At one point I wake up to check if there is water rushing over the floor. The water tanks are under cabins 15 & 16. A morning sail through rain begins the day.

After lunch we dropped anchor in a cove off Isle Culebrita, sometime called snake island. This is one of the oldest bird sanctuaries in United States territory. It was established in Culebra on February 27, 1909 by President Teddy Roosevelt.

A few hiked to the ruins of an existing light house at the highest point of land. The first and foremost reason people come to Culebra is probably to do nothing. The white sand beaches are amongst the finest in the world. Coral reefs are close to shore. We walk to the other side of the island. Dozens of hermit crabs scatter out of the pathway. A beautiful beach is waiting for us. Palm trees sway in the breezes of a sunny afternoon. We brought blowup rafts and lazily float around soaking up the sun.

At 3:30pm we cruise to Ensenada Honda and anchor in a cove. Dinner is served at the gourmet restaurant “Seabourne”. The passengers are the only customers. A rum punch is offered upon arrival. The menu is a choice of flank steak fettuccine and stuffed pork loins. Delicious chocolate crepes end the meal.

A full day of fun! A full night of undisturbed sleep!

April 21, 2010
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Wednesday

St. Thomas

The overcast weather makes it an ideal morning to sail to St. Thomas’s rocks of Christmas Cove, a popular dive spot. The cove got it’s name from sailors meeting in this area on Christmas. Passengers snorkel off the ship. A photo op is taken as everyone takes turns climbing to the end of the bowsprit and pose ala “Titanic”.

After lunch we cruise to Cruz Bay, St. John. I go into town to scout out restaurants for the evening dinner. The town is filled with tourists shopping for jewelry, t-shirts and sun glasses and imbibing in bars. I lost my visor somewhere in the shopping mode. Rain showers enter the picture. An afternoon siesta is in order. Dinner is provided in a beach restaurant of simple good fare such and hamburgers and onion rings.

April 22, 2010
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Thursday

St. John

The morning fog lets up to a partly cloudy sky. The ship docks at Soper’s Hole, Tortola BVI to clear customs. We have a long wait after standing in line behind a ferry passenger crowd. We arrive at Norman Island by 11am. The ship anchors near the Indians outcropping of rocks. Swimmers swim to the caves. An alternative is the white sandy beach at Pirates Bight. Our rafts are handy. Lying face down we can see in the clear waters as fish swim under us. The bars on shore invite the happy hour bathing suit crowd of drinkers. In the cove the private condo ship “Seadreams Yacht Club” is anchored near us.

A buffet dinner of BBQ chicken, fish and ribs is served at Ivan’s. On the return ride to the ship we pass the “William T. Thorton”, the notorious night time hangout - too early for any action (8:30pm).

April 23, 2010
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Friday

Jost Van Dyke

Today is Holly’s (crew member) birthday. A slow cruise on a cloudy day is perfect for passengers to gather on deck and converse. The topic of conversation is boating. Rental of catamarans are now sail-less for beginner sailors. We are a very amiable group. We enter White Bay, Jost Van Dyke. The shadows cast by the sails lessen the effects of the high humidity. After lunch, we make a wet landing at Ivan’s bar. Ivan’s is separated from the other bars, notably the Soggy Dollar Bar by an outcropping of rocks. We follow a path to this famous side for a photo shoot. Back to the quiet side we seek out chairs and loungers. Our rafts prove perfect for a float among the waves.

All are on board to sail to the next bay, Great Harbor, and Foxy’s for our last dinner. The Friday barbecue bash of chicken, fish and ribs etc. is crowded with people. An excellent guitar player strums a mellow medley of tunes. The wild and loud bends are at the other end of the dirt road.

April 24, 2010
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Saturday

Red Hook, St. Thomas

At the crack of dawn we are ready to pack. Luggage must be out of the cabin by 7:30am. We sail to Cruz Bay, St John for a simple customs check and continue to Red Hook, St. Thomas. The crew and passengers gather for a last minute photo. Taxi’s are waiting at the dock. We wave goodbye to each dingy of departing passengers. For $30 the taxi drives us to the airport. We retrieve our carry-ons, stand in line for boarding passes for tomorrow and walk to the Island Beachcomber Hotel . Our room isn’t ready so we relax on the sandy beach. Vic goes in for a swim. The weather changes to rainy showers. Lunch at the bar/restaurant on the beach is a shared fish and chips dish with pina colada smoothies for drinks. Cold breezes change the air temperature. We retreat to our room for a nap and don’t wake up til 8:30 pm. The moon is out and the rains are gone. A perfect night to stroll the beach. We repack for our flight home. The rafts are left in the closet.

April 25, 2010
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Sunday

St. Thomas

It rained all night. There’s a lull between showers and we walk to the airport and check in at 6:00 am. Security checks our shoes. We need to go through customs again. We have tickets for first class, priority boarding. This is an excellent way to end a vacation. Food is served with real utensils, china cups and plates. Food is very good. The toilet seat is even padded. Time goes fast in the lap of luxury. We arrive in Miami 15 minutes early. Our next gate is one gate down. No major walking to another concourse. We land in St. Louis at 4 pm to cold and rainy weather. The parking van takes us to our car. The check out computer is down and the clerk waves us through sans paying. Home sweet home to the phone calls, piled up mail and 200 e-mails.

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