October 13, 2008
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Departure
Washington, DC
We're off! Joan's on American frequent flyer miles through Miami, and Steve's flying nonstop on United(!)as the government contract carrier. See you in Buenos Aires!
Create your Trip Journal [click here]Waterfalls, Wine and Tango in Argentina
By : Joan Burns
Trip Begins October 13, 2008
Trip Ends October 27, 2008
Down to sunny springtime in Argentina for two weeks - We'll visit Iguazu Falls, Salta and the northwest, and of course, Buenos Aires! Waterfalls, Malbec Wine, Andes Mountains, Horseback Rides, Handcrafts and Tango!
Want to go? Iguazu Falls, Andean Northwest
I went to: Argentina
Trip Begins October 13, 2008
Trip Ends October 27, 2008
Down to sunny springtime in Argentina for two weeks - We'll visit Iguazu Falls, Salta and the northwest, and of course, Buenos Aires! Waterfalls, Malbec Wine, Andes Mountains, Horseback Rides, Handcrafts and Tango!
- Oct 13 - Washington, DCDeparture
- Oct 14 - Buenos AiresArrival
- Oct 15 - IguazuOff to the waterfalls
- Oct 16 - IguazuTime to get wet
- Oct 17 - SaltaGo West!
- Oct 18 - SaltaSeeing the Sites of Salta
- Oct 19 - CafayateLas Conchas Gorge and Cafayate
- Oct 20 - Molinos, ArgentinaEstancia Colome
- Oct 21 - SaltaOn to Cachi and Buenos Aires
- Oct 22 - Buenos AiresTime to see Buenos Aires
- Oct 23 - Buenos AiresJoan's solo day in Buenos Aires
- Oct 24 - Buenos AiresBuenos Aires
- Oct 25 - Buenos AiresBuenos Aires
- Oct 26 - Buenos AiresMarketplaces and head on home
- Oct 27 - Washington, DCHome for lunch
Want to go? Iguazu Falls, Andean Northwest
I went to: Argentina
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October 14, 2008
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Arrival
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Touchdown, Buenos Aires! A rainy day, but hey, it's Spring! We already have a project -- replace Steve's sport jacket that he forgot at home with a new one, Argentina style. We headed off to the nearest mall, Alto Palermo, and cruised by all the uber-hip stores until we spotted Giesso, which appeared to be more age appropriate! Sure enough, they had a great selection. Turns out it's the "Brooks Brothers" of Argentina and they have been in business since the late 19th century. What a great souvenir to start our trip.
October 15, 2008
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Off to the waterfalls
Iguazu, Argentina
Morning flight to Iguazu Falls. Met up with our guide, Cesar, and made it just in time to meet up with the other participants in the Iguazu Jungle Forest adventure. We traveled by open-air jeep in to the military base located near the National Park. We learned about the Yerba Mate tree and other flora and fauna, until we reached our first stop -- the zip-line course above the jungle canopy. We got strapped into our harnesses, scaled the ladder up to the tree top (where there was a beautiful yellow orchid growing) and launched. The zip-line ran in 3 segments. We had a big laugh when Joan braked so well in the 2nd segment that she came to a COMPLETE stop, a hundred feet above the forest floor - yikes!
Soon enough, with a swishing sound coming from behind, one of the guides wrapped his legs around Joan's waist, gave several good bounces to the cable (oh my) and propelled us to the stop ahead. Whew.
Then, off again in the jeep to a nearby waterfall and a chance to rappel down to a swimming hole at the bottom. Boy, it was fun, especially getting caught in the spray.
Back in the jeep and on to our hotel, Iguazu Jungle Lodge, located near the town of Puerto Iguazu. The lodge was 5-6 small buildings nestled into the edge of the forest. Our well-appointed room had a complete kitchen, stocked with all sorts of wine and snacks, and we decided to order an "asado" BBQ brought to our room for dinner. We had such a nice time sitting on our private deck, dining on grilled cuts of beef, sipping Argentinian Malbec red wine, and listening to the jungle night sounds. The temperature was perfect, and a perfect end to a great day.
October 16, 2008
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Time to get wet
Iguazu, Argentina
Cesar collected us bright and early to get to Iguazu Falls for a day of exploration. First we rode a tram-train to hike out over water on a walkway to see the enormous Devil's Throat falls, which was simply breathtaking. Not only were the falls spectacular, but we really enjoyed watching all the swallows fly into the mist to catch insects, then fly back into their nests along the cliffs. We began to see exotic birds and lots of fantastic butterflies -- and learned that by standing still, the butterflies would land on us! We also took our only good look at Brazil on the other side of the river!
Cesar led us to on the Upper Circuit walkway, explaining about the plants and birds -- and we just missed seeing a toucan that flew off. It was fun to see so many varieties of plants growing wild that we only usually get to see as houseplants. And of course, the falls -- all of them -- were truly spectacular! We've never seen anything so big. I think they're almost two miles wide.
The Lower Circuit walkway took us down to the river's edge and gave us an entirely different perspective - looking up. We then boarded a pontoon boat for a quick ride up close to a few of the falls and everyone got caught in the warm spray. Great fun.
We rode down the river through some rapids and ended the ride with another jeep ride through the semi-tropical forest. We learned about the Palmito tree and how it's illegal to cut them down in Argentina to harvest the delicious "hearts of Palm" because the process kills the plant. Elsewhere in S. America these trees are grown on plantations and the harvest is controlled.
Back for a shower at Iguazu Jungle Lodge, then a 10 minute walk into town to dine at Aqva, a great little restaurant recommended by our guide. At his suggestion, we ate Surubi and Pacu, two local river fish, which were yummy.
October 17, 2008
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Go West!
Salta, Argentina
Since we weren't scheduled to leave Iguazu until noon, we walked into town and took a look at all the souvenir stores. The daily downpour drove us into a store for long enough that we bought a Yerba Mate gourd and drinking straw as a souvenir for our son Chris.
Off to the airport and on to Buenos Aires where we changed planes. We stopped for a cup of coffee and ran into friends from our church -- how surprising! It turns out that Rich was planning on attending Steve's conference also, and he and his wife Susan were headed to Iguazu Falls for the weekend. Such a small world -- and we decided to get together in Buenos Aires the next week.
We arrived in Salta, in far northwest Argentina, and discovered that our baggage had only been checked to Buenos Aires. A quick check to confirm that our bags would be delivered the next day, a cash payment to cover incidental expenses, and we headed off into the city with our guide, Gustavo.
Hotel del Virrey, a small hotel in the city center, was our home for two nights. We enjoyed walking a few blocks to the main area of restaurants, and had a great late night dinner (steak again!)
October 18, 2008
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Seeing the Sites of Salta
Salta, Argentina
The environment and geography of Salta couldn't be more different than what we experienced in Iguazu Falls. We moved from humid, overgrown jungle to arid, mountain landscapes.
Gustavo met us at the hotel, and we enjoyed a morning walking tour of the old city. First stop was the old covered market, where we saw a large variety of vegetables and every imaginable kind and cut of meat. We saw bags of coco leaves, which can only be purchased in bags totaling less than 1 kilo. It's chewed as a digestive and stimulant! The center square retains much of the Spanish colonial architecture, and the old churches, houses and balconies all looked like something right out of Spain. It was lovely.
Gustavo dropped us off at the entrance to the gondola ride up to the top of the nearest "hill," where we had a great perspective of the city and its location in the valley surrounded by mountains. We had lunch at the restaurant at the top, and spent the rest of the afternoon exploring the city on our own. The highlight was visiting the museum dedicated to "high altitude archeology" and featured three Inca mummy children found in 1999 at the top of a nearby mountain. They were selected from high-ranking families in different areas of the Inca empire. It was considered a privilege to "go live with the gods" and they were buried alive (though drugged)with special artifacts meant to appease the gods. The museum was very well done but it was a little creepy to see the mummy on display -- a 7-year old boy, completely dressed and not looking like he died 500 years ago.
A rest at the hotel and then out to dine at the "Old Station" restaurant, where we had a chance to see a lively folkloric music and dance program while we ate. Sure, it was touristy, but we enjoyed it all the same.
And yes, our luggage arrived!
October 19, 2008
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Las Conchas Gorge and Cafayate
Cafayate, Argentina
Hike the gorge, visit a winery and on to Estancia Colome
October 20, 2008
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Estancia Colome
Molinos, Argentina
Hike the vineyard, ride a horse, cook a meal!
October 21, 2008
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On to Cachi and Buenos Aires
Salta, Argentina
Check out the handcrafts in Cachi, evening flight to Buenos Aires
October 22, 2008
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Time to see Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires, Argentina
First full day to see the city
October 23, 2008
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Joan's solo day in Buenos Aires
Buenos Aires, Argentina
While Steve attends the conference, Joan explores on her own -- buying leather?
October 26, 2008
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Marketplaces and head on home
Buenos Aires, Argentina
Sunday markets! Flight home that night.
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