If you've done any research on Belize you know that part of the appeal is the Mayan ruins tucked deep in the jungles throughout the country. You've probably stumbled across pictures of Tikal (across the border in Guatemala) and Xunantunich, maybe even Lamanai and Cahal Pech. What you might not have seen are pictures depicting the Mayan Underworld, the caves and rivers known to house Mayan rituals hundreds of years ago and now preserve pieces of that history in the form of artifacts and skeletons. The most alluring in the part of this underworld is the ATM Cave.
After a slight mishap many years ago - where a traveler caved in a skeleton skull - cameras have been outlawed in the ATM Cave. The only way to know about it now is by word of mouth and let me tell you, it is NOT overhyped. The ATM Cave is hands down one of the coolest thing I've ever done and even my slightly claustrophobic Boyfriend couldn't agree more.
I was thrilled to hear that we would be able to make it into the cave on our last day in the jungle. After several days of heavy rain the cave had been closed off and one the week leading up to our arrival. If the water levels are too high the cave isn't navigable. Luckily the water levels had reduced and we were allowed to head off.
Armed with only a head lamp and a life jacket Tim and I were ready for a one of a kind adventure. Our guide led us on a short hike which included 3 river crossings along the way - be prepared to stay wet! Once you arrive to the mouth of the cave it is time to swim/climb your way through the utter darkness. Our guide took great time and care telling us exactly what to hold on to and where to step. The water varied from 2-10 feet deep and all along the way we continue to wonder how the Mayan people made it through with torches and the artifacts they brought along with them.
In the dry chamber we took off our shoes (don't for socks!) and began to explore the artifacts and skeletons. The cave has been excavated so that every artifact remains in the exact position it was found. I've never seen anything like this and it effectively kept me in the moment imagining the tribes standing in the very spot where we now stood. The main even is a full skeleton left where he lay upon his death - I've never seen anything like it.
The way back was much the same except with more crowds now - Pro tip: take this excursion from a lodge near the cave like Pook's HIll. This allows you to arrive earlier and experience the cave with just your small group.
This is not an excursion for the faint of heart in the darkness and depths of the water, but it is not one that will be quickly forgotten. You'll want to be sure footed, but most able bodied individuals should feel confident that they can handle this excursion.
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
2 days ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.