The family that sea kayaks together, stays together.

It was by lucky circumstance that our guide, Pedro, was joining us for more of our Mexico travels and we were delighted to have his companionship in Balandra Bay. An easy 25 minute drive from La Paz, the Bay is a fantastic place to do a little sunning and sea kayaking and this is exactly what we had in store. But the wind was a bit of a show-off that morning, so we decided to limit our full-day sea kayaking trip to a few hours paddling among the Bay’s mangroves. (Arriving at Balandra, I sheepishly realized I forgot our cameras back in La Paz. Long story short, our sea kayaking trip was delayed about 50 minutes and I perfected the use of “Lo siento”.)

Pedro gave us some quick paddling points while Aaron slathered the kids in a fresh coat of sunscreen. We were still a little pink from yesterday’s sunny Espiritu Santo trip; today we were not being shy with our SPF. Aaron and I doubled up with our younger kids and our 15-year-old, Gabs, took on her own kayak. The paddle out was against the wind. It was a true test of core strength (shout-out yoga) and I was sweating-it by the time we reached the mangroves. On the other hand, my kayak companion, Faye, was kicked back with her toes dangling in the water. But the wind died down almost immediately once isolated by the mangroves. Whew.

Pedro pulled some Oreos from his bag, which reconfirmed his coolness-status with the kids (and the kids’ parents). Re-energized, it was a peaceful paddle in the mangroves. Pedro explained to us their significant role in the region’s ecology and overall health of marine life. The mangroves themselves are beautiful: calm waters and lush vegetation set in the backdrop of Baja’s rolling red landscape. It is a place where three hours passes in the blink of an eye.

Beautiful views in Baja’s Balandra Bay. Seriously, look at that water!

We glided our way back to the beachfront. I unloaded the kids and applied a little more sunscreen. By now the air was still, except for a calm breeze that seemed to come just when needed – almost on cue. Pedro unpacked a picnic lunch and we quickly ate it under our cabana.

The rest of the afternoon was spent relaxing in the legendary Baja sunshine. The kids grabbed hold of their goggles and went wading in the turquoise water. A perfect place for the kids to swim, they could wade nearly a 1/2 mile and still not get their hair wet. Gabs and I sat on the white-sandy beach with our feet in the water and I examined the shells, rocks or whathaveyous that Samuel and Faye plucked out of the Bay. Aaron and Pedro wandered further down the beach to take advantage of some great snorkeling. Once back, a game of tackle-the-kids-in-the-water quickly broke out. There was a lot of splashing and a lot of laughter.

I joined them.

Faye enjoys some playtime after our private picnic lunch on Baja’s Espiritu Santo

We had a solid sleep after yesterday’s long day of travel & transfers. Everyone rose bright-eyed and we were downstairs to meet our driver, Jorge, in the hotel lobby by 8:15 am sharp. Our agenda today was a private trip to Espiritu Santo Island and snorkeling with sea lions at the island’s Los Islotes. Called The Pearl of Cortez, this beautiful rocky island with a spiritual name is a little over an hour’s boat-ride from La Paz Bay. A national park, Espiritu Santo is a haven for wildlife and is celebrated for great snorkeling and countless secluded beaches. We were hoping to confirm the island’s famous status.

After getting suited for wetsuits and snorkeling fins, Jorge dropped us off at the marina. He waved us a fond farewell, leaving us in the good hands of our guide, Pedro Lopez. A local from La Paz, Aaron and I immediately bonded with Pedro over our shared love of biathlons and marathons — while the kids connected via silly faces and a little slapstick. He was the perfect guide for us.

We boarded our speedboat. Our captain for the day was Cocoo, an experienced fisherman with 20+ years of exploring the Sea of Cortez under his belt. On board, the kids pointed out dolphins and kept watch for leaping manta rays, while Aaron and I sat back and enjoyed the sun and sea-spray, finally embracing that we were on holiday. Enroute our capable captain maneuvered our boat into tiny cliff-side caves while Pedro explained a little about the island’s unique geology visually outlined in its rocky landscape.

Snorkeling with our new sea lion friend, Mojito. Awesome!

“Mom, did you hear that?” my 7-year-old, Samuel, said as the boat slowed. We were approaching a small rocky island. “There’s a dog our there.”

He was close — not dogs exactly, but lions. The tiny Los Islotes is year-round home to roughly 500 sea lions. We slowly approached the island. Pups nursed from their mothers, while large bulls barked. Aaron spotted some squids in the water, which was unusual for this region. Even more so was that the sea lions were taking advantage of this calamari feast; Pedro explained they typically hunt further away from the colony in deeper waters. We joined a handful of other small boats in the area and found a place to anchor.

“I see Mojito,” said Pedro. He pointed at a small group of young sea lions sunning themselves on shore. Pedro has visited this colony so often he has named some of his favorites. “We’re in luck. Mojito loves to play.”

He was right. Pedro, Aaron, myself and our 15-year-old daughter, Gabs joined Mojito and a few of his friends in the water. The sea lions blew bubbles in our faces, nipped on our fins, dove over heads and thought our underwater camera was hilarious (and delicious). It was hard to tell who was entertaining who, but I assure you I was entertained!

“Mom,” Gabs said pulling her snorkel from her mouth. “This is the coolest thing ever!”

Samuel and our four-year-old, Faye, made a solid attempt to join us, but the water was a little choppy and quite cold. They were content to stay with Cocoo and watch us play with the sea lions from the boat.

After an hour or so in the water, attempting to keep up with the sea lions, we were delightfully exhausted and hungry. Saying good-bye to Mojito, our next stop was Candelabra Beach. Here a private picnic lunch was waiting for us, along an isolated beach that defines tranquil. We immediately found our niche. Gabs and I parked it in the warm sand. Aaron chatted with Pedro in the shade. Faye and Samuel waded in the turquoise water in search of creatures. Our lunch spread was awesome: fresh salad, cheeses, avocados, fruit and a Pacifico or two. Bellies full, Aaron and Gabs tackled the paddle boards and I went for a swim. Samuel put his snorkeling gear on and headed to a nearby reef. He emerged from the water proudly declaring, “I swam with the fishes!”

We took our time here. There was no rush to leave and plenty of reasons to stay. But as the sun started to loom over the horizon, we knew it was time to board our boat back to La Paz. But before we did that, Pedro had something else in store for the Conways.

The sky was suddenly filled with activity as our boat came closer to a colony of hundreds of nesting Magnificent Frigates. The birds were busy. They circled the boat and skinned the water — a closet birder, this was a spectacular moment for me.

“Just one last little surprise I had to share with you,” Pedro said as we drifted away from the birds.

But he was wrong. Once back in La Paz Bay a pod of porpoises surrounded our boat and we watched them perform as the day transformed into evening.

A fantastic start to our family Mexico vacation.

Weather report: Slight breeze & sunny. High 90s.
Sunburn report: Kids pink, Aaron peeling.
Animal sightings: Leaping manta rays, squid, countless fish, hundreds of sea lions & frigate birds, dolphins and a pod of porpoises

5 bags, 3 kids, 2 parents, 1 yoga mat, 2 life jackets, 5 sets of snorkeling gear, 11 days of camping gear … and a partridge in a pear tree — the Conways are finally Baja bound!

The Conway family is packed and ready and headed to Baja! Nine-months of anticipation has finally come to an end and I now fully appreciate the insight I had to plan early to address those items that weren’t on my original packing-list: new passports, cancelled & re-scheduled flights, pre-excused school absence letters and snorkeling lessons. I kept perspective by reviewing the details of our awesome itinerary and daydreaming over fantastic photos of Baja’s beaches. While preparing for this Mexico tour has been a process, picking our trip was the easy. My kids love the sun, surf, sand and captivating wildlife, so our Mexico Baja Sea Kayaking & Conservation trip was a perfect fit for our family of five.

The Conway Family — all smiles enroute to Baja!

Our adventure is balanced with snorkeling, sea kayaking, sunbathing and exploring in and around La Paz, with a five-day camping trip on the remote beaches of wildlife-rich Magdalena Bay. While in Magdalena, we’ll be joining researchers from Grupo Tortuguero in their community and sea turtle conservation project. The information gathered during this research adventure provides data on health, migration patterns and habitat use of sea turtles in Magdalena Bay.

Only two flights and a three-hour drive stand in the way of our sunny escape. We’re so excited to start our Mexico adventure. Stay tuned — it is sure to be a trip.

We’re excited — even more excited than that one time we got two Snickers from the vending machine for the price of one (although that was a great day). This exhilaration stems from the fact that Adventure Life completely rocks and has very generously given us, Cooperative for Education (CoEd), a grant to further our mission to break the cycle of poverty in Guatemala through education. The best part? This grant is already being used to improve life for primary school students and their families in rural Guatemala through the Culture of Reading Program (CORP).

These engaging story books are just one of the many ways CORP fosters reading and learning among primary school students in Guatemala.

The CORP program is intended to foster a lifelong love of reading and learning in children by providing teachers with best practices in reading instruction, as well as a selection of engaging story books. If Ismelia, a first grader currently in the CORP program at La Canoa primary school, is any indication, CORP is achieving its goal in every way.

Her mother, Irma, is astounded by Ismelia’s interest in learning. She states, “When Ismelia comes home after school, all it takes is a simple question like ‘What did you do in school today?’ and Ismelia tells me every detail about her day—she even repeats the dramatizations and songs they do.” Irma goes on to explain that Ismelia’s older brother, now a sixth grader, didn’t learn how to read until second grade, so she is absolutely amazed that Ismelia is already reading and writing less than two months into her first grade year.

Look at those smiles! Ismelia lights up every time she starts chattering away about school.

Ismelia is just one example of the thousands of students who are falling in love with reading and learning thanks to Adventure Life’s help. Irma takes great pains to ensure that Ismelia never skips a day of school, stating, “I don’t want her to miss out on a single moment of the wonderful learning experience she is getting.”

Thank you, Adventure Life, for helping Ismelia thrive, for helping teachers learn best practices in reading instruction, and for being a company that truly cares about the communities where they work and travel. It is refreshing to partner with an organization that shares our passion for sustainable long term solutions to some of the world’s toughest problems. We couldn’t be more excited to be a recipient of your good will—in fact, you can read more about our unabashed enthusiasm here!

Man, that Adventure Life logo sure looks good on our sponsor plaque…

As Maria Ovando, a Guatemalan Ministry of Education official, states, “Thanks to you, we have books so we can get to know the world. When these children grow up, they will remember the support you have given them, and because of your help, they will have a better life.”

Endurance training for horses on the beach in La Pedrera, Uruguay

The sound of the ocean woke me at 6AM. The waves were pounding the beach so loudly that as I opened my eyes I would have thought the water was only a few feet away. In reality, I was cozy in our cabana at Pueblo Barrancas EcoLodge, tucked into the trees at least 100 meters from the beach. Ten stilted, quincha-roofed cabanas and 20 wall tents are hidden throughout the 15 acre private property. Pampas grass swayed overhead as we navigated the lodge’s trails, blocking the ever-present wind and perfecting the intimate coastal atmosphere.

We took off at 10AM with Denver, our surf guru from Estorer Surf Shop. Denver took us to La Aguada, a long shallow beach just in sight of the La Paloma lighthouse. John tucked his long board under his arm and immediately ran into the water, grinning from ear to ear. I, on the other hand, tightly gripped my body board and stared at the massive waves in complete terror as Denver told me what to do. He nicknamed me “Poncho”, after the famous surfer Poncho Sullivan, in hopes of instilling some confidence. After working my way into the surf for 30 minutes, swallowing about a gallon of seawater and being thrown about by the incredibly strong waves, I finally was able to catch one! Fun? Yes. Graceful? Most certainly not!

Body boarding in La Pedrera, Uruguay!

John surfed for several hours, and while he was waiting for the next set a horse came galloping through the water! Denver explained that they train horses nearby for endurance races in Saudi Arabia, and one of the big training exercises is to take the horses into the deep surf, and push them to run through chest-deep waves. Only in Uruguay!

We ate dinner at the lodge’s Pueblo Bar, where we sat next to the open fire and watched our filets of lenguada (sole) sizzle on a cast iron grate. We finished our day exhausted, and completely enraptured by the sand, surf and sun of La Pedrera.

John comes in from surfing in front of the Pueblo Barrancas Lodge in La Pedrera, Uruguay

Suzy enjoys the canoe ride across Laguna Rocha in Uruguay

A thin bar of sand separates the sea from a long circuit of shallow lagoons which serve as a sanctuary for marine life and birds along Uruguay’s eastern shore. Today we drove from Jose Ignacio north to Laguna Rocha, a 72 square kilometer body of water that appears as an endless sheen of blue glass stretching across the horizon. With an average depth of only 3 feet, this UNESCO Biosphere Reserve takes water in from the ocean during parts of the year, and then as the sand builds a barrier against the sea, the lagoon balances fresh and saltwater, creating a unique ecosystem ideal for shrimp, crabs, molluscs and the birds that feed on them. We drove to the southern end of the lagoon and waited for our guides to arrive, we peered across the lagoon and made out three figures that appeared to be walking on top of the water! The three silhouettes were walking through the calf-deep water over a half a mile away, pulling canoes behind them.

The endless blue Laguna Rocha in Uruguay

Our guides, Rosario and Mariana, were accompanied by Daniel, a park ranger who gave us every detail of the natural history of the lagoon and its flora and fauna. We stepped into the canoes and paddled into the center of the lagoon, which was so wide that the western edge melted away into the horizon. To our east, every few minutes white ocean spray would shoot over the sandbar, exposing the enormous waves crashing just beyond the edge of the lagoon. We paddled to a small island, and on the other side we watched as Black Necked Swans, Chilean Flamingos and countless other migratory birds fished in the shallow water.

We alternately paddled and walked through the lagoon to it’s northern shore, where we carried the canoes out of the water. We were met by bicycles for the next leg of our trek – mountain biking to the La Paloma lighthouse! We wound through hilly horse pastures, lush green fields dotted by broad Ombu trees, and sporadic views of the Atlantic. Hours later we reached the lighthouse, where we enjoyed a fresh picnic prepared by our incredible guides. We ended at the Pueblo Barrancas EcoLodge, where we shared a Pilsner and heartfelt goodbyes with Mariana and Rosario, thanking them for one of the most incredible days of our trip.

Sullivan, John and Rosario bike across Uruguay’s countryside

John admires the impressive surf along Uruguay’s coast

We traveled from Uruguay’s capital, Montevideo, east toward the Atlantic Ocean. As we left the city and passed through suburbs and then smaller outlying towns, one thing struck me: there are no fences. There are no concrete walls shielding the houses from the street, there is no razor wire or broken glass trimming the perimeter of shops and homes – which if you’re familiar with South American cities, these accoutrements are the norm. Not in Uruguay.

The rolling green hills, stands of eucalyptus trees and brilliant blue sky make Uruguay a verdant paradise. As if the landscape wasn’t enough, just on the other side of the road is the ocean, golden sand and enormous crashing waves sending sea spray high into the air. Horses galloped across the seemingly borderless pastures on our left, and surfers lined up for the next wave on our right. My first impression – Uruguay has it all.

Suzy enjoys the peaceful view at Miradores de Laguna Garzon

We arrived at Miradores de Laguna Garzon, the home and boutique hotel built by Pablo and Andi Sosa. Upon walking in, the feeling of being in a feature home in “Architectural Digest” is nearly overwhelming. Andi and Pablo have taken impeccable care with their home and business, applying beautiful touches to even the smallest details. Even our bath towels, tied with twine and trimmed with dried wildflowers, made us feel like royalty. Pablo took us across the lagoon to his most prized property, the Laguna Garzon Floating Hotel. As he toured us through the wooden boardwalks, floating cabins, and restaurant, Pablo explained that he had to bring both power and fresh water to the lodge. The lodge has provided more than a unique tourist retreat, it has also brought electricity to the bordering fishing village, which was without power until the lodge’s construction three years ago. While the luxurious floating cabins were retired in early March for the off season, it was easy to see how this is a place that you could come back to year after year. We enjoyed an Uruguayan Tannat wine under the brilliant southern stars and slept peacefully in the quiet of the countryside. For families and honeymooners alike, the Miradores and Floating Lodge at Laguna Garzon are an experience like no other!

Looking out over the water from a floating cabin at the Laguna Garzon Floating Hotel

Celebrate Earth Day — Help us plant trees in Ecuador!

Adventure Life is celebrating Earth Day by planting trees. You should join us!

CLICK HERE to plant your tree.

One entry = one tree. The more entries the more trees planted, so tell your friends. And to show our gratitude, three lucky entrants will each win a $100 prAna gift card. You deserve it!

Your tree will be planted on the northern slopes of Ecuador’s Rumiñahui Volcano in Hacienda El Porvenir. It will help regenerate high Andean forests, provide crucial habitat for wildlife and protect the soil for productive agricultural use & the watershed that supplies water to Quito. Since 1998, nearly 400,000 native trees have been planted as part of this reforestation project. The goal is one million. Every tree, every entry, helps reach this goal.

Does this sound familiar? It should. Last year, with our local Peru partners, Adventure Life funded reforestation projects in the Cachiccata and Socma communities. Two thousands native Tara trees were planted. You can view pictures of us hard at work in a Peru photo journal. The Tara tree does double-duty: It helps restore native flora in the region and the tree’s fruit also draws a good price at markets – offering a sustainable source of income for local families within the communities.

CLICK HERE to plant your tree.

Want to dig in the dirt yourself? Our Cotopaxi Service Project Trip invites you to directly help with reforestation and conservation initiatives in Cotopaxi National Park and on private reserves within the Condor Biosphere. It’s one of my favorite Ecuador tours, designed to give back to our local hosts.

Exploring the land of the midnight sun on a remote Arctic adventure tour.

If you find it hard to sleep in the land of the midnight sun, it won’t be the light keeping you awake. It’ll be the excitement.

After all, when you clambered into the Arctic Kingdom convoy of snowmobiles and komatiks (wooden trailers on skis) to head off across the sea ice from Pond Inlet, enroute to its base camp at Sirmilik National Park on Baffin Island, you were launching yourself into life-changing adventures.

Riding in the well-packed komatiks behind the skidoos, you can feel the power of the stark mountains lie behind you while ahead lies nothing but an endless sweep of ice. No snow – just a crust on the ice that morphs from frosty white to shimmering blue. In places, melt-water lies on the surface in ponds through which we splash like water skiers. Sometimes, deep cracks stretch down to the ocean itself, but they prove no challenge for the imperturbable Arctic tour guides. After unhitching and pushing the long komatiks across, they rev their snowmobiles and leap the gaps like Cirque de Soleil acrobats.

Nestled at the feet of 15,000 year-old icebergs, our base camp is the point from which we make daily expeditions to the floe edge. The wild is waiting there to meet us wild, face-to-face. We wrestle into tight-fitting dry suits or zip on survival gear and hop into kayaks, frantic to be in or on the water when the whales come. One eerily white beluga is awe-inspiring but seeing dozens, cavorting just meters from you, is electrifying.

Like a boiling pot, the water churns with belugas and sleek brownish-grey narwhals that swim beside kayaks and slide between snorkelers.

“It’s like a wildlife highway down there,” bubbles Jens, a German biology professor, as the belugas swim past him. “I’ve never seen anything like this.”

Who has?

Days are indistinguishable from one another, with no darkness to divide them. We live surrounded by the wild, our soundscape filled with the breathing of mammoth bowhead whales and our landscape dotted with seals and polar bears. Poor Chef’s gourmet meals are bolted quickly so we can hurry back outside to watch the sun dance across the ice and climb the ancient icebergs. Each night, long past midnight, we reluctantly retreat to cozy tents and slip beneath downy comforters but sleep is elusive – Arctic fever has us firmly in its grip and we don’t want to miss a second.