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Antarctica Trip: Ten Things Antarctica Taught Me

By : Elizabeth Conway
Trip Begins November 18, 2009
Trip Ends December 2, 2009

Two weeks in Antarctica with two cherished friends and fellow Adventure Lifers, Julia and Renee; this incredible tour had surprises around every corner. This trip reconfirmed everything I love about travel ... and taught me a thing or two, or ten.
See my photos : Antarctica Adventure!!

I went to: Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula, Argentina, Ushuaia, Drake Passage
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November 18, 2009
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1. I have a knack for missing the whale-sightings.

Missoula montana

Not once, but twice, I missed a close encounter with humpback whales. As my zodiac was taking me to shore, a humpback visited others right outside the ship's gangway. And the kayakers where greeted with a humpback and her calf as they made their way around Half Moon, our last day on the continent. But don't feel too bad for me, as we approached Neko Harbor I was out on deck enjoying the view when I was surprised by two humpbacks who accompanied us through the channel. The landscape can change in the blink of an eye. Wildlife suddenly appear out of the water and around the corner. In Antarctica, you can expect the unexpected.

November 19, 2009
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2. Why Icebergs are Blue

Ushuaia, Argentina

The short answer is it has to do with the the light spectrum, and the way light is filtered through the ice. The thicker the ice, the more blue-green color it displays. Regardless of what our on board geologist, Wolfgang, might suggest, the blue color IS NOT a result of reflecting light off the blue eyes of the rare Antarctic ice worms... Oh, geologist-humor!

November 20, 2009
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3. Deception Island is deceiving.

Ushuaia, Argentina

Volcanic activity -- BAH! Don't let that steam rising off of the shoreline fool you; the polar plunge was as freezing as it was fun! I suppose, however, that large floating pieces of ice in the bay should have been a clue that we were in for a chilly dip.

November 21, 2009
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4. Russian

Drake Passage, Antarctica

Our ship, the Lyubov Orlova, is named after a famous Russian actress. It is a tightly-run ship with passionate crew. Our daily agendas (which showed up in our cabins each night like clock-work) included a "Russian word of the day." I did an excellent job butchering the language, but returned home with Spasiba (thank you), Zdravstvuite (hello) and Dobre Utra (good morning) in my vocabulary. The Russian staff and crew were charming and accommodating. They even treated us to a performance at the end of our voyage.

November 22, 2009
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5. Penguins provide complimentary wake-up calls.

Drake Passage, Antarctica

When we were camping at Paradise Bay, the curious penguins decided to visit us at all hours of the night -- literally right outside the tent -- and practice their best squawk. Other visitors that night included a friendly sheathbill who thought our tent was the perfect place to perch. Our tent had the poop to prove it.

November 23, 2009
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6. It's a small world.

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

One of our expedition staff grew up in Owatonna, MN - just a hop-skip-and-a-jump away from my hometown. And, as we boarded the ship, Renee was reunited with a former professor!

November 24, 2009
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7. Valdimir has spent over a year in the Drake Passage.

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

A member of our expedition team, Russian born Valdimir has taken over 120 expeditions to Antarctica (each that included roughly 4 days in the Drake). Needless to say, we were in very capable and experienced hands.

November 25, 2009
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8. Sea Kayakers have horseshoes up their ...

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

Both Julia and Renee and eight other passengers went sea kayaking during our trip -- and at least one of them was able to bring a lucky charm through customs. In one afternoon, the kayakers had up-close encounters with a humpback whale and her calf, a leopard seal, watched an iceberg break in two, and dodged a compression wave.

November 26, 2009
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9. I have an inner-birder.

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

And Antarctica brought it enthusiastically to the surface. Here's just a few of the species I can add to my developing bird-log: Magellanic Woodpecker (spotted during our hike in Tierra del Fuego before we embarked), black-browed albratross, giant petrel, Antarctica shag, snowy sheathbill, Antarctic tern, South Polar skua and Gentoo, Adelie and Chinstrap penguins. I must thank our onboard ornithologist, David Drummond, aka Bird-man, for his inspiration.

November 27, 2009
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10. Snow globes have a life-expectancy of roughly 12 hours..

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

...in the hands of a three-year-old.
As promised, I brought my son Samuel home a penguin ... in the form of a snow-globe purchased in Ushuaia. He loved it, and dropped it on his way into school for "show-and-share" day. It was a teary-eyed morning. I've promised Samuel a new one as soon as possible.

AND...

November 28, 2009
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11. I'll be back.

Antarctic Peninsula, Antarctica

After all, I have a new penguin snow-globe promise to live up to.

My Photo Album: Antarctica Adventure!!
Antarctica reminds us just how fun snow can be!First Gentoo penguin encounter at Aitcho (pronounced H.O.)Adventure Lifers tackle the national parkThe parks packs a punch -- as Beth tries to illustrateBest tasted the local fungus -- odd texture...A beautiful day trip just outside of Ushuaia.Dinner with great folks in UshuaiaRenee and Gentoo penguinsRenee gets upclose with a Weddell SealIn route to Neko Harbor -- incredible!A lazy Weddell sealBeth at Neko HarborGentoos at Neko HarborThe penguins wait their turn for a Zodiac rideParadise BayArgentine station at Paradise BayAntarctica's famous blue giantsBeth and Renee camp on the continent!30 hardy passengers made it through the nightIt doesn't get dark -- Beth tries to make due...A lovely day with the Adelie penguinsSpectacular zodiac rides through the iceberg graveyardNear Port Lockroy -- ice decorates the bayI was always surprised at how much color we foundBeth sends a few post cards at Port LockroyPenguins at Port LockroyRenee and Julia in their kayaking dry suitsNovember is nesting time for penguins -- see the eggKayakers work their way through ice at CurvervilleThe ice!The weather was excellent for our bbq on deckAt Deception IslandVolcanic Deception Island -- later we take the plunge!Our ship -- the OrlovaSteam rises off the water at Deception IslandAlthough there was steam -- water was NOT warm. BRRRR!Gentoo and chinstrap penguins at Half MoonAdventure Lifers go canoing at Tierra del FuegoHighly recommend time in the park before an Antarctica trip Julia and Renee in the twisted landscape of the parkSea kayaking in Antarctica. Beautiful.Humpback Whale!!