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Belize + Guatemala 2008

By : Heather Spears
Trip Begins December 19, 2008
Trip Ends January 1, 2009


See my photos : Blog/Journal Belize 2008

Want to go? Belize Explorer

I went to: Belize, Guatemala, Belize City, Pooks Hill Lodge
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December 19, 2008
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Leaving the Snow Behind

Miami, Florida

-Miami International Airport Hotel

After many months of preparation and research, and several days of thoughtful and careful packing, our adventure to Central America began while Seattle anticipated the second wave of its worst snow storm in years. While we packed, newscasters showed footage of abandoned cars on the freeway, predicted another foot of snow, and announced closures of multiple schools and organizations. I couldn't wait for warmer weather and sunshine! We were very lucky to have arranged transport to the airport ahead of time, as the shuttle service had stopped taking additional reservations several days before.

The airport shuttle arrived at our house at 9.30 am. Anticipating that our journey to the airport would take much longer than normal, we allowed a lot of extra time. After sliding backwards on one of Seattle's hills on the way to pick up another passenger, the driver adjusted the route to avoid the steepest slopes. The van crawled slowly down Highway 99 to the airport.

To my surprise, our flight was scheduled to leave on time. Our airline had re-scheduled us for an overnight layover in Miami before flying on to Belize. After first being annoyed by the itinerary change, I was somewhat relieved to have extra time to connect to our Belize City flight, knowing that the whole country, and not just Seattle, was experiencing weather delays and canceled flights.

Our flight to Miami was full of holiday travelers and families with young children; many people decided to forgo the white Christmas for warmer climates. We arrived in Miami as scheduled, and checked in to the in-airport hotel. We had a hearty steak and potatoes dinner at the airport restaurant (complete with Florida Key Lime Pie) and slept comfortably in our soundproof room, ready to fly to Belize the next day.

December 20, 2008
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Belikin Beer and Poolside Relaxation

Belize City, Belize

Belize Biltmore, Belize City

Because we'd decided to stay at the hotel located within Miami airport, we managed to find a quick cup of coffee, and check-in for our Belize flight without much effort. Belize City is only a two-hour flight from Miami, and while descending we first glimpsed at the Barrier Reef and its incredible blue waters trees, amazed as the landscape changed to thick green trees and winding rivers.

After making our way through Belize International Airport customs and immigration, where we were surreally entertained by Dolly Parton Christmas playing on the loudspeaker, we hired an official taxi to take us to the Belize Biltmore. We had padded our trip at the beginning by booking an an extra day to acclimate before beginning our official tour. Our cordial taxi driver advised Peter to seek out the "Punta Rebels" for the best example of Belizean punta-style music. Construction workers repaired flooding damage on the western highway to Belize City while we slowly inched past repair sites, finally arriving at the Belize Biltmore.

We checked in and quickly changed from long pants and jackets to summer-appropriate short sleeves and shorts. At the poolside bar, our bartender Andrea introduced us to the one and only Belizean beer: Belikin. Peter suggested pouring it into a glass once to see how it "opened up." At which point Andrea said, "It's not gonna do nothing." So from this point forward, we drank our Belikin from the bottle. In fact, since it happened to be happy hour, we received one free beer for every beer purchased. We spent the afternoon enjoying the warm weather, chatting with Andrea about Belizean customs and the Kriol language, and sampling the 2 varieties of Belikin - regular and stout. Eventually, we went for a swim just before having a filling seafood dinner, and scanned the TV stations before deciding to watch The Wizard of Oz for our evening's entertainment.

I penned and stamped a few postcards before bed time. I sent postcards of places I knew I would be visiting in the next few days: the Belize Zoo, Xunantunich, and San Pedro.

December 21, 2008
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Belize Zoo and Jungle Sounds

Pooks Hill Lodge, Belize

A Jungle Cabaña at Pook's Hill

On December 21, the shortest day of the year, we wake up happy to be much closer to the equator than Seattle. After a full breakfast, we took a brief tour of the hotel grounds to photograph the flower gardens, the pool and the bar where we had spent the previous day unwinding. At around 10 a.m., Dennis, our driver and guide from Pook's Hill, met with us at the hotel lobby. After introductions and a review of the plan for the day, we transferred our luggage to the van and made our way to the Belize Airport to wait for another participant on our tour whose flight was due to arrive around lunch time. While we waited at the airport restaurant, Dennis received a call saying that Al would not be arriving on time, and that his flight would be much later. With this news, we were free to leave the airport and proceed to the Belize Zoo.

As we headed back to the Western Highway, I spotted the Belikin Beer brewery and operations in Ladyville, Belize. I thought to myself, "If Belize is only going to have one beer, I'm glad that it's a good one." The Western Highway, although it is one of Belize's main and few paved roads, is still a sparsely traveled (at least by American standards) two-lane road. On our journey along the Western Highway we noted houses on stilts, several people waiting on the roadside for public buses, and vast open fields without homes or farming. Dennis explained that this area was not good for growing crops, and hadn't been, even during Mayan times. Another half hour or so down the road, and we reached our lunch spot called "Cheers: With a Tropical Twist." Here we had rice, beans and stewed chicken, and our first introduction to another of Belize's prominent products: Marie Sharp's Habañero Pepper Sauce. I really learned to like this hot sauce. It has the right level of heat, a good balanced taste, and doesn't have any surprise ingredients or unidentifiable additives.

After this staple lunch, Peter, Dennis and I took a short drive to the famous Belize Zoo. The Belize Zoo is unlike any zoo I have ever visited. Instead of indoor exhibits with constructed habitats, the Belize Zoo animals live within a natural dense jungle habitat that has been enclosed with with fencing. Some of the exhibits are so open, I believe that the animals stay inside by choice. The monkeys seem perfectly capable of swinging on branches outside of their cages, but the zoo has provided them with a refuge We saw some species we were familiar with, like crocodiles and raccoons, but we also met a plethora of animals we have never seen before including 5 jungle cats. I especially enjoyed the ocelot and jaguars; and was very entertained by the masked coatimundi. The coatimundi is a member of the raccoon family, and has a long tail and body, and apparently keen foraging abilities as well!

We toured the zoo for a few hours and then piled back into the van for to transfer to Pook's HIll Lodge in the Cayo District. Peter had expressed an interest in seeing Belmopan, the capitol city of Belize, on the way to the lodge. Dennis oferred to give us a drive by tour of the city, which proved to be an enriching addition to our itinerary. While we toured Belmopan, a double rainbow provided a scenic backdrop for the photos of some of Belmopan's interesting architecture. We drove by the modernly constructed Belize parliament building. Public buses (repainted school buses) pulled in and out of the brightly colored Belmopan bus station, all of them full of passengers. The US Embassy proved to be a highly prominent high security complex. The loop around the capital city only took a few minutes, and after snapping some great photos, we continued along the highway to Pook's Hill.

Once we arrived at the turn off of the highway to Pook's Hill, Peter took a photo of the lodge sign. Dennis said, the road would be a slow 6 miles. The bumpy dirt road to Pook's Hill tossed us around for about 30 minutes. Meanwhile, we passed orchards, ranches, tree farms, and finally wound our way through a forested section of the road to Pook's Hill. We reached the clearing and a view of several thatched-roof cabanas. Just after we parked, we were immediately welcomed by lodge managers Kat and Dave, and we were invited into the main building bar for a drink. The bar is located in an open thatched-roof space. Complete with hammocks, a corner bar and barstools, comfy chairs, insect exhibits, and a library of books about the local eco-system, I was immediately comfortable in this space. Peter and I both decided on a refreshing Belikin, and we were briefed on the operations of the lodge while our luggage was transferred to our room.

The electricity at Pook's is on a generator, so we were asked to conserve by turning off the lights and fan in our room when not in use. Hot water would be available only after 3 pm or so, as the hot water was generated by burning cohune palm nuts. A few minutes later, Kat led us down a staircase behind the main building; down another wood staircase on the slope of the hill, across a metal bridge high above a creek, and across a long planked boardwalk to our stilted wood-framed thatched-roof cabana. The spacious room had two comfortable beds, each with a colorful Guatemalan bedspread. Large windows opened up to views of dense jungle. We had also a secluded deck which overlooked an open field with a palm tree backdrop. The jungle air is oxygen-rich, and I was happy to relax and take a few deep breaths.

After settling in to our cabana, showering and dressing for dinner, we went back to the bar for drinks and pre-dinner fresh chips and salsa. Here we met Al, our fellow Belize Explorer traveler, for the first time. He had arrived on a later flight, and had come to the lodge directly from the airport. After a some introductory conversations, we were invited to walk downstairs to the screened-in, lantern lit dining room for a delicious buffet style dinner. We had delicious rice and beans, exotically spiced stewed chicken, a unique green salad, and marinated vegetables. The food at Pook's Hill had amazing freshness and unique flavors; the pineapple carrot cake dessert was as good as any birthday cake I'd ever had at home.

After dinner, we walked outside to inspect the bug light Kat had set up to attract insects. A bright light shone on a suspended white sheet, which drew colorful moths and giant beetles. Our first night at Pook's was clear, so we had a great view of the stars from our cabana deck. Occasionally we heard tree-rustling amid the jungle sounds of insects and bats and wondered if tapirs or pacas or even jaguars meandered nearby. We had the perfect setting for a well earned good night's rest.

December 22, 2008
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Climbing El Castillo

Pooks Hill Lodge, Belize

San Ignacio and Xunantunich

We awoke shortly before 6 am, not to the beep-beep of the alarm we had set, but to the sounds of jungle birds in the trees outside our window and a light rain falling on the thatched roof. Raindrops on the leaves made for a misty, cool and fresh morning air. I tiptoed out the cabana and up the stairs to get two cups of coffee to bring back to our room.

This morning we were scheduled to canoe down the Rio Macal before visiting Xunantunich ruins in the afternoon; however, over breakfast, Peter, Al, Kat and I discussed other potential opportunities, as the idea of canoeing down river in the rain did not appeal to us. Knowing that we had lots of chances to experience jungle wildlife, and that we would also be canoeing the following day, we opted to visit a wooded mayan ruins site called Cahal Pech.

Peter, Al, our guide Mike, and I set out from Pook's Hill down the long windy road, and headed west towards San Ignacio on the Western Highway. We detoured through the town of San Ignacio and when we reached the parking lot of the Cahal Pech site, it was pouring down rain. At this point we adjusted our plan again. We decided to tour San Ignacio, and walk around the town and the local market, while we waited for the rain to let up. We explored the narrow streets, cautious of motor traffic passing close-by. Snacking on banana chips, we looked for "Punta Rebels" music CDs, examined the available produce, eyed some jewelry and souvenirs, and paused for a few photographs. Eventually, we thought the rain was light enough to tour Cahal Pech, and we headed back up to the site.

Cahal Pech literally means, "Place of Ticks". I believe it received this name because the archeological site was a pasture prior to its excavation. After climbing a few steps through a wooded trail, we arrived at the central plaza. Mike guided us carefully around the site, as the steps and ledges had been become slippery in the rain. This site was a great introductory Mayan site, as the smaller scale area and the small comprehensive museum made it easier to learn the Mayan timeline and architectural elements. We toured through the main courtyards, examined the vaulted arch passageways and learned about the game Mayans played at their distinct ball courts.

After touring the site, it was lunchtime, and I was hungry! Mike said he would be taking us to a Mayan restaurant near our next tour site, the ruins at Xunantunich. Here we ordered pork pibil and chicken escabeche - two very wholesome examples of local cuisine. Each came with rice and beans, and fresh tortillas.

I was glad we had a hearty lunch, as I could see the ruins of Xunantunich from the highway, and the height of the structure was impressive. It looked as though we would have a bit of climbing and hiking to do in the afternoon. In order to get to the national park of Xunantunich, we had to cross the Mopan river. This river crossing is achieved by a hand-cranked one-car ferry. We all had to stand on the ferry outside the vehicle as a safety measure. After the crossing, we drove up a steep one-mile road to the site entrance.

The site of Xunantunich proved to be as informative about ecology as it was in archaeology. Here we not only toured the ruin structures, but also learned about different species of trees (cohune palm, gumbo limbo, e.g), and even witnessed a mimosa plant, an interesting ground cover whose leaves visibly shrink away when you touch it!

The largest structure of Xunantunich "El Castillo" towers over the site at 130 ft. We hiked across the grounds and photographed some howler monkeys who were swinging in the trees above the path. Then it was time to ascend El Castillo. We climbed the steps in several slow, deliberate stages. Standing on at the top of El Castillo was exhilarating! From here we could view the jungle canopies, river valleys and even see into Guatemala (which we would visit in a few days).
We took several pictures and enjoyed the views (and the breeze!) atop this temple before just as carefully climbing back down.

After touring the rest of the excavated grounds, we made the long journey back to Pook's Hill. On the return crossing ferry, Peter asked if he could turn the crank, which he did, and found surprisingly easy! We then reboarded the van and made our way back to the long dirt road leading to Pook's. We had just enough time to freshen up and return to the bar for happy hour and another delicious dinner (coincidentally we got to try another version of delicious pork pibil!).

Our adventures did not end with dinner, however. Peter had arranged for us to have a jungle night hike led by Francisco, another Pook's Hill guide. Equipped with flashlights, set out for an hour or so walking through the trails adjacent to the lodge grounds. Our first lesson was to identify the poison wood tree, and to be careful not to touch or brush against them, as this would cause a rash. I decided that I couldn't tell in the dark what was and wasn't a poisionwood tree, so I refrained from touching any trees or branches! We walked as quietly as we could to increase our chances of seeing any creatures foraging at night. We did see a few birds, and it was hard not to be a little nervous each time we heard a rustle in the leaves. At one point during the hike, we paused and turned of our flashlights to just listen to the jungle sounds. While we didn't see any tapirs, we did see an opossum climbing in the branches far above us, and Francisco even coaxed a few tarantulas out of their hiding places! The tarantulas were timid -- certainly more frightened by us than I was of them. We made our way back to the lodge slowly and carefully, as not to slip in the mud.

After a day of exploring, climbing and hiking in the dark, we returned to the cabaña for another peaceful jungle night.

December 23, 2008
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Caves and Butterfles

Pooks Hill Lodge, Belize

Mornings at Pook's Hill began with bird calls, scrumptious and filling breakfasts and great promise for the day ahead, and our second Pook's morning was no exception. After a pancake breakfast, served with fresh tropical fruit, thick dark honey, scrambled eggs and refried beans - our little group of three set out once again with Mike for more Mayan-archaeology activities. Now familiar with the long dirt road from Pook's and the western highway - we took a turn towards Barton Creek Cave that led us down an even longer, bumpier road than we had experienced in Belize to date. We realized that we had taken one of Pook's Hill's older vans, because the road we were on definitely would take its toll on any vehicle. We bumped along amid miles and miles of orange groves. At certain points on the road, Mike had to back down hills and get a running start to successfully climb the hills.

After about 45 minutes of travel along the challenging road, complete with creek crossings and discussion of mennonite settlements seen along the way, we pulled up to the and the entrance to Barton Creek Cave. Mike arranged for us to take two canoes into the cave. Peter piloted our canoe, while I held a flood light powered by a large battery pack. Mike paddled the canoe for Al and himself. As we paddled farther from the mouth of the cave and out of the reach of its natural light, the mystic quality of the cave materialized. I tried to think of our journey as they Mayans might have seen it, as a journey to the underworld. In addition to the geologic formations of the cave, the evidence Mayan use through footholds and handholds in the rocks, pottery shards, and even skeletal remains led to the unanswerable questions : what did they use the cave for? Sacrifice? Spiritual journey? The ceiling of the cave loomed high above us, and the water below us was perfectly clear. This cathedral-like space was unlike any cave I'd seen and even more fascinating that it had importance to the Mayans.

After paddling back to the daylight and to the shore, it was time to move on to our next destination, and the treacherous road provided even more of an adventure. At one point, Peter and Al had to move to the back of the van and sit over the rear wheels in order for us to have enough traction to get up the hill. After a few miles we turned off to a better maintained and more travelled dirt road and soon arrived at the Green Hills Butterfly Ranch. We had a savory packed lunch at a picnic spot just next to the butterfly ranch, and then walked over to the butterfly garden.

Our guide invited us inside an frame structure, walled with mesh screen and positively filled with butterflies. Several bright blue morphos and other colorful species surrounded us while we learned about butterfly life cycles and feeding habits. Then we had ample opportunity to observe the butterflies in this habitat and practice our photography skills. Peter snapped a few photos of a blue morpho close-up, and took a great shot just as it was preparing to take off. We admired not only the butterflies, but their garden habitat, adorned with beautiful bird of paradise flowers.

After the ranch visit we climbed back into the van for a slightly less bumpy ride back to the Western highway and Pook's hill, where
we again practiced our now-familiar dinner preparation: shower, then social hour with Belikin beers and tortilla chips, followed by another fabulous meal. After dinner, Kat briefed us on our touring schedule for the next day: we would be heading out on Christmas Eve for Guatemala. Vicky, one of the owners of Pook's hill would drive us to the border, and Mike would continue to guide us throughout our tour in Guatemala.

We confirmed the van departure time for the following morning, and decided to have a nightcap and visit in the open air lounge with Kat, Dave and Ray. While sipping on Belizean One Barrel rum over ice, we shared travel stories, and I even ventured to play a few tunes on the guitar. Dave got up and returned with another guitar, and so we played a few tunes together. I happily strummed and sang along while he played a more elaborate accompaniment.

When it was time to retire to the cabana (we had a long travel day the next day afterall) we said good night our generous hosts, and descended the stairs again to our enclosed jungle bedroom. Pook's Hill had become a comfortable and peaceful refuge, and even with the mystery of Guatemala ahead I slept peacefully through the night

December 24, 2008
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FIREWORKS!

Flores, Guatemala

Upon waking to our last morning at Pook's Hill, Peter and I decided that we would like to take a half hour jungle walk around the grounds of Pook's hill. Vicky had shown us a map and given us descriptions of markers to a short loop trail that would make for a good early morning walk between coffee and breakfast. Since birds are often seen in the quiet of early morning, we thought we'd have another chance at spotting some of the wildlife around the preserve. As we set off through the tall grass of an adjacent meadow, looking for the trail on the other side, it dawned on me how quiet the morning was and how far away I felt from anything, even though I knew the buildings of Pook's were just a short distance away. Our short jaunt was a nice little adventure in itself, as we navigated muddy terrain, crossed creeks over logs, and listened for birds. We often heard the flapping of wings in the branches above even if we didn't always see the birds themselves. Somewhat misted by a light rain, morning dew and a bit of perspiration, we ascended the steps to the dining area to find Vicky. She was relieved that we had made it back in time for a good breakfast and fresh coffee.

We sat down to our last Pook's hill breakfast of egg and refried beans and pancakes, and returned to the cabana one last time to finalize our packing before loading in the van for the Guatemalan border. We said our final goodbyes to Kat, Dave, Ray and Frederico. Then Peter, Al and I headed out with Vicky to pick up Mike before heading to the western highway once again. Van rides seem to go by quickly when you're crossing a landscape unlike and far away ones you're familiar with. I was content to gaze out the window at stilted houses, and and orange groved estates on the few hours ride to the Guatemalan border. Vicky turned through the streets of the border town, and soon enough, we were on the move again. Mike helped us navigate through the touts to exchange currency; then helped us with our exit from Belize and entry into Guatemala.

After negotiating our entry stamps with the Guatemalan authorities, Mike led us to the van he had arranged to transport us to Flores, Guatemala. I was a bit nervous with the excitement of a new country, new surroundings, and a new language. In Belize, the official language is English, but in Guatemala everyone speaks Spanish, of course. Al, who lives literally on the border of Mexico, is quite fluent in Spanish, and was eager to speak Spanish again. He immediately struck up a conversation with our van driver, exchanging stories about their families. I began thumbing through the phrases in my "Travel Spanish in 15 Minutes a Day". Even with Mike's help and Al's skills, I wanted to practice the language I had been trying to learn prior to the trip.

On the road to Flores, we saw horses roaming free without fencing, several soccer games in fields alongside the road. This highway, while paved, was certainly not without its bumps and potholes. Peter estimated (with his professional engineering skills) that it had been paved many years ago. We crossed the dramatic bridge across Lake Peten to the when we arrived at the small island of Flores.

The winding cobblestone streets of the small island of Flores are reminiscent of an old medieval European town; however the the splashes of brilliant color on the buildings of Flores are unique to my travel experiences. We parked at a bright warm yellow hotel at the top of the hill in Flores, thanked our driver and settled into the small town. We had a lunch of fried fish and stuffed peppers and hot Guatemalan coffee. After lunch we walked the town a little bit, climbing the stairs to the main square with the church (name) and scoping out some of the shops that were closed for the afternoon siesta. Then we relaxed poolside at the hotel for awhile, and I had a chance to swim for the first time during the journey. The afternoon was so warm and relaxing; as we sipped Gallo beers and gazed over Lake Peten I had almost forgotten that it was Christmas Eve. We had been forewarned that in Guatemala the locals enjoy having a bit of a party for Christmas Eve, so Mike, Al and I discussed our plans to meet up for dinner and take in the festivities.

We met up around the time of the sunset and took some beautiful photographs of the sun setting behind Lake Peten. The town began to awaken from its siesta and liven with every minute. People began pouring into town on the backs of motorcycles, in the beds of pickup trucks and at every turn. We picked a place with a sunset view for drinks to celebrate Christmas Eve, before dining on chicken and rice within a quiet restaurant . Then we walked the town and took in the ambiance of live music, religious processionals, and several shops. We started to search for handbags and Guatemalan cloth/bedspread. Peter and I were hoping to find a bedspread that would match the decor of our room (green and orange). Al wanted to find a nice handbag for his girlfriend back home. After combing through many shops and bargaining a bit, we were all successful in finding unique colorful items made from woven cloth. By this point in the evening, it was almost time to head up the hill to the cathedral to experience the celebration surrounding the midnight mass. We stored our purchases and wares in the hotel and headed a few blocks up to the main square of Flores. A DJ had set up right in the square and a giant artificial Christmas tree was assembled in the center of the square (sporting the logo of the Guatemalan beer Gallo). Children were setting off firecrackers all around the steps to the square, and families with young children, elderly ladies with canes and every age in between assemble to enter the church for mass. Meanwhile, fireworks exploded all around us, and couples danced to the DJ music. At midnight a processional of officiants entered the church and then the explosions began: the church bells chimed non-stop, a loud and quick cadence that filled the square and likely could be heard throughout the town. The pandemonium of firecrackers and fireworks exploded both at our feet and high in the sky. At one point, a man loaded a PVC pipe with a giant firework, ignited it, then ran away... and Peter was close enough to capture this on film, retreat, and witness this explosion!

Somewhat overwhelmed by the fireworks (and a little bit afraid, frankly) Peter, Mike and Al and I moved to a place in the square where we could see out over the city and across to the hillsides of the neighboring towns. Fireworks lit up the entire horizon, unlike any Fourth of July I have ever seen. This Christmas Eve firework show was a blanket of color and sparkle over the whole sky. The concentrated cacaphony of dicsco music, church bells, children's screams of delight and and endless crackle and hiss of continued for several minutes beyond midnight. We remarked on how Christmas Eves we had known before had been characterized by a peaceful silent night, and here we had likened the Christmas Eve party to a battlefield! Wow!

All the after midnight excitement led us back down the hill, where we bid goodnight to Al at the door to our hotel. Again hungry after having an early evening dinner. Mike, Peter and I went to restaurant we'd spotted earlier which promised to be open late with chicken barbecue. We grilled chicken and tortillas and more beer served by a friendly lady in a Santa hat. We watched the traffic flow on and off the bridge to Flores, realizing that we still could hear the pops of fireworks and sounds of excitement throughout the town.

We walked slowly back to the hotel when we'd finished the meal and taken in our final glance of the sights and sounds of Christmas Eve in Guatemala. Our first day in Guatemala certainly left quite an impression with the excitement that began at border crossing and continued non-stop to the unusual Christmas celebration late into the night. Peter and I bid goodnight to Mike at our hotel, returning to our room which was luckily set back from the street underneath a stairwell which abated the sounds of the continued celebrations. With a day at Tikal ahead of us, we would certainly need as much sleep as the late night and the still-partying town could afford.

December 25, 2008
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Tikal's Many Temples

Tikal Ruins, Guatemala

We woke early on Christmas morning, and packed for our departure from Flores to Tikal. Peter, Al, Mike and I wished each other a Merry Christmas at a breakfast of eggs, cheese, bread and a chorizo-type sausage. The van driver scheduled to take us to Tikal arrived shortly thereafter, and we bid adios to the now-quiet streets of Flores, When we expressed an interest in coffee, our van driver told of us a place which had good Guatemalan coffee along the way. We wound our way around lake Peten to the road to Tikal. The shop our driver had intended for us served free coffee, a variety of souvenirs and gifts and and also had some fantastic pieces of jade for sale. The mayans valued jade greatly, and as such it is often referred to as "mayan gold". Peter looked through the pieces hoping to find a piece suitable for a pendant, and I found myself instantly drawn to a pair of teardrop earrings. We loaded back into the van and continued along our journey towards Tikal National Park. Well schooled in Mayan history from our visits to Cahal Pech and Xunantanich, we were now prepared and excited to visit the ruins at Tikal. On the approach to the national park, we passed several "animal crossing" signs, and we laughed while trying to identify the jungle cats, other creatures we weren't used to seeing on crossing signs! By the time we reached the great entrance to the park, we had passed through miles of thickening, deepening jungle. While Xunantanich's approach had been dramatic and looming as we had been able to see the top of el castillo from the highway, the approach to Tikal left much to imagine with its mystery. I knew the famed temples were near, but impossible to see through the thickness of the forest.

When we arrived at the Jungle Lodge within the park, our driver gifted us with homemade tamales made by his wife. Now lunchtime, I was grateful for the experience to have some homemade guatemalan food. After we settled at Jungle Lodge, we gathered at the restaurant for lunch, and the staff of the lodge heated up the tamales for us in addition to the additional lunch items that we ordered. I knew we would need a good lunch, because the grounds of Tikal are quite expansive, with multiple buildings to see, and we were hoping to climb to the top of Temple IV at the time of sunset.

We had a break between lunch and our time to meet our assigned tour guide of the Tikal site, so while I sent an email to my parents to wish them a Merry Christmas, Peter went to the souvenir shops and had a great time purchasing some traditional woven Guatemalan cloth. He purchased 9 yards of a textured cloth which had bright colors mixed in with predominantly black and white threads. When it was time to take our Tikal tour, we headed out with our licensed Guatemalan guide.

We ascended a long, wide road, surrounded by jungle and without any views of Tikal's towering ruins, before finally reaching the an open expanse with a and a trail which led us first from a smaller group of buildings, where we studied a stela engraved with the image of a Mayan ruler. As we discussed theories of Mayan ritual and the purpose of the stela, we bantered about the expanse of the archaeological site, and tried to imagine Tikal as a bustling city -- not overgrown with jungle and greenery and hiking paths, but a network of roads, paths and with many more buildings, either not yet excavated or disintegrated. Beneath each mound of dirt a potential human edifice could be revealed, but the extent to which Tikal will be excavated is limited not only by funding, the need for more expert knowledge and time... but also by a sense of how archaeologists want to treat the grounds of Tikal. Its park-like atmosphere, with its major structure excavated, as I was beginning to experience, inspired imagination and adventure unlike any other historic ruins site I had seen. To unearth all that might potentially lie below the jungle floor, would create a markedly different park.

As we progressed through the grounds, we reached the Great Plaza, and here we began warming up for more stair climbing by climbing the stairs surrounding the central acropolis to get a better view of the site. A few minutes rest in the plaza, and it was time to move towards the towering and more recently excavated Temple V, described to us as one of the tallest pre-columbian structures in the western world. This certainly deserved a photograph, and while we were not allowed to climb this temple, I imagined the difficulty one would encounter doing so. Their steep angle seemed functional from the perspective of engineering a tall building only.

We progressed through the Plaza of Seven Temples, which is a site currently in the process of being restored. Peter observed the scaffolding and a clear delineation of the point to which work had progressed, and what still required painstaking removal of dirt. As we hiked along the path, the trees seemed to thicken, the moss on the buildings seemed a little greener. At this point we were far from the lodge, far from the central plaza where many tourists and locals had flocked to on this holiday, and deep into the Mundo Perdido: "Lost World". This area of the park contains some of the oldest ruins, and we happened to be there in the late afternoon, without other visitors. The Lost World definitely imparted an eerie connection to the past.

As the sky darkened, we began the undertaking of our pinnacle experience of Guatemala: climbing Temple IV at sunset. I knew that not too long ago - this was a much more dangerous endeavor. The wooden staircase that we climbed seemed sturdier and more recently constructed than a rickety scaffolding I had heard stories about. At 212 feet we reached the top, and for a few minutes, our small group (along with a park guard) sat atop the temple in silence, looking over the jungle canopy and the amazing view, before being joined by another group of tourists.

Perhaps one of the more notable aspects of Temple IV: I gazed across the canopy for miles, and could not see any other human structures or creations other than the pinnacle of Mayan temples. The sun setting to the west allowed for good lighting for our canopy photos. While the view can be seen in many photographs and films, the wonder of Tikal is best experienced from sitting atop this Temple. At our journey's farthest point, I inherited the sense of amazement in our world's history and nature that can only be endowed by travel. In other words, you just have to be there to know.

As the sky grew darker, we decided to descend the staircase while there was still some light. And at dusk we retraced our steps through Mayan roads and causeways, passing again through the now empty central plaza. Once we reached the main causeway, we needed our flashlights to light the long path back to the Jungle Lodge. After a dinner at the lodge grounds, we listened for animal sounds as we drifted off to sleep in another dimly lit jungle refuge. Nestled comfortably behind the not-really-needed mosquito netting, sleep came easily.

December 26, 2008
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Scenic Flights across Belize

San Pedro, Ambergris, Belize

Flights from Flores to Belize City to Ambergris Caye; Settling in to the easy life

December 27, 2008
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San Pedro and Relaxation

San Pedro, Ambergris, Belize

A Windy Day: Exploring San Pedro and Piña Coladas at the Tides

December 28, 2008
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Manatees, Goff's Caye, and Caye Caulker

San Pedro, Ambergris, Belize

An all-day excursion to surrounding islands and sights

December 29, 2008
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Turtles! Sharks! Sting Rays!

San Pedro, Ambergris, Belize

Visit to Hol Chan Marine Reserve and Shark Ray Alley. More of Belize's Barrier Reef.

December 30, 2008
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More Snorkeling!

San Pedro, Ambergris, Belize

At Mexico Rocks

December 31, 2008
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New Year's Eve

Dallas, Texas

Leisurely departure from Belize, and an airport layover on New Year's eve

January 1, 2009
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We Missed the Snow!

Seattle, Washington

New Year's Day return to Seattle

My Photo Album: Blog/Journal Belize 2008
I cant wait to see Tikal
I cant wait to see Tikal
Peter and I in the snow, before shuttling to the airport.
Peter and I in the snow, before ...