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Egypt Cruise Adventure: Cairo, Luxor, Aswan, Dahab and more!

By : Lynessa Nelson
Trip Begins May 5, 2010
Trip Ends May 17, 2010

We had an amazing 4 day cruise down the river on the Nile Adventurer. Our Egyptologist, Zainab, and the boat staff made the experience a delight! We hope to return soon and experience more of Egypt.

May 5 - Cairo, Egypt
May 6 - Cairo, Egypt
May 7 - Aswan, EgyptFriday
May 8 - Edfu, EgyptSaturday
May 9 - Luxor, EgyptSunday
May 10 - Cairo, EgyptSunday
May 11 - Dahab, Egypt
May 12 - Mount Sinai, Egypt
May 13 - Dahab, Egypt
May 14 - Cairo, Egypt
May 15 - Cairo, Egypt
May 16 - Cairo, EgyptSunday
May 17 - NYC, USA

See my photos : Egypt Cruise Adventure: The Pyramids, Cairo, Aswan, and more

Want to go? Nile Adventurer: 4 Day/3 Night Egyptian Cruise, Nile Adventurer: Nile Package: Cruise and Land

I went to: Africa, Egypt

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May 7, 2010

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Friday

Aswan, Egypt

We drove a 20-30 minute drip in the bus to Aswan and Zainab commented on several buildings as we passed through. We were outside the city now and most of the men were wearing the typical country dress with the long linens. The women were all covered up with the full hijab. Zainab was telling us yesterday that the women’s dress was a matter of fashion. It is only more recent in the last 40 years that women have started to wear the Islamic dress by the influence of Iran, she was saying. The Iranians seemed to be setting the trend for the Islamic countries and they preferred a lot more conservative dress. She, so said, that was why you see the women covered except for the hands and the face. She said that it was strange however because you could see a mother not covered with her two daughters that are coved head to toe without even their face showing. She said it was all just the trends for today and would probably change later depending on the fashion in a few years. According to the Quran however, she said that it is only crucial for the woman’s hair to be covered, it does not say anything about the coverings from head to toe - that is simply some Muslims’ interpretation of the scripture.

We arrive at the boats - Akorn has a private dock for their boats and we passed by several others that were crowded with “regular” boats that looked like cookie cutter images of each other. Once we step inside we are again welcomed and given cold towels to refresh ourselves. We are seated in the lounge area above the main deck and given a cold hibiscus drink in a champagne glass. They collect our passports in order to check us in and the Akorn staff welcome us. There are two different groups on our tour - the English speaking and Spanish speaking from Argentina, Chile, and Mexico. They introduce a host for each group that is here for us if we have any questions. Our host is Ahmed and he told me later that he has been working for Akorn for 9 years.

The Nile Adventurer is docked between two other boats - the Sun Boat IV and III. They are lined up parallel to each other and we walk through the lobby to the Sun Boat III which is a smaller more intimate boat - luxury still. The captain of the boat explains that the thing that sets these boats apart from the others on the Nile is their use of common space for guest entertainment and comfort. We see on the other boats that their is cabin space and then the top floor is for sunbathing. On the Akorn boats they have spacious lounge areas on three of their floors. The decor is amazing and I noticed that the sun boat II has a more “egyptian” feel to it with the decor and the aromatic insence that they have burning in the common areas. There is a beautiful pool on the roof along with a treadmill and elliptical machine. In the cooler months, the capitan said that the guests really enjoy running while cruising along the Nile. On the Sun Boat IV, it is a much larger ship and just as decadent as the rest. Both this one and the Adventurer have a gym and spa area for massages. The IV also has a clinic area attached to the gym. We find out that there is a doctor that accompanies the guests on every cruise - and his services are free of charge. We take a look at the suites and presidential suites which call can have King beds and lounging areas. Each one decorated a little different to make it a special theme.

After we take our tour, we have a minute to freshen up and prepare for our afternoon tour. We load back in to the bus and head to the unfinished Obelisk query. It is afternoon and the sun is harsh. We are one of only a couple groups at the site because of the heat. We climb up the stairs on the rock face and see the amazing feat of the unfinished Obeslisk - about 70 ft long! She explained that they cut the stone by repeatedly taking a round rock the size of a bowling ball and climbing to the top and throwing it down. How many times would it take to cut the rock 6 ft down like they did?! And then the have to move it to the Nile and float it downstream. Zainab said they are doing a study of the Nile to find the boats that sank while trying to take these Obesiks to their destination temples.

On our way out we go through the shop areas and are harassed by the vendors! They are very persistent even when we do not show an ounce of interest. Help us if we did show interest, they would never let you go without buying something. At the pyramids the other day, one of the men in our tour was mobbed by a vendor while walking from the bus to the boat museum. He put a head covering on Roberto’s head and said it was a gift - “no problem” because he has a friend in Mexico and wanted to give it to Roberto because of this. Hmmm, sketchy. So the deal is that they give you gifts and then when start walking off, they either ask for a gift back or accuse you of stealing and demand payment. Good to know. We encountered this selling technique in several of the markets along the tour. By the end, we were pros at finding the best route through the mob in order to come out unscathed and with the purchases you actually wanted to make. There’s a point when you have to just relax, be patient and realize that they don’t mean any harm. Its simply the way bartering is conducted in Egypt and they are just trying to make a living. It was surprising to see how well the younger generations would pick up on it as well. There was one boy about six or seven, that you just wanted to buy his scarf because he was trying so hard. There were several times along the way that our group ended up purchasing trinkets not because we really wanted them but because a fifty cent or dollar purchase for us would mean a lot to a young kid selling it.

After the query, we escaped the heat in the bus and continued on to the Temple of Isis. We took a boat out the island and then Zainab walked us around the ruins. By this time in the afternoon the heat was stifling. I tried to pay attention to every detail that she was explained but found it hard. They try to keep you hydrated but its so hard in the dry heat. You’d have to employ someone to follow the group around all the time with a cooler of water. They did a great job however of making water readily available on the bus before and after each stop. Several times there were sodas and juices as well whe we had long periods before the next meal. Yes, we were well taken care of and pampered I would say.

Part way through the temple tour I noticed that Matt was not looking so well. He was pale and his stomach was giving him horrible pains. Zainab took note and tried to hurry the boat boy to steer us faster back to the bus on the other side of the lake. We made it just barely in time. Matt became seriously ill. We rushed back to the boat and they asked us if he would like to see the doctor. They had a full time doctor on the boat so he came and took Matt’s vitals, examined him, and prescribed a shot for the stomach pains. Through out the night, Matt was still horribly sick and the doctor periodically came to check in. It was nice to have the peace of mind to know there were numerous people aware of the situation and checking in to make sure Matt got well. It was a rough night of fever, chills, vomiting and restless sleep but he made it through. I made sure to wake him every hour for a sip of water and sprite and also to periodically take the pills the doctor had prescribed.

Also that night (and on a lighter note) they had the captain’s welcome reception. They introduced the crew and did a very brief safety presentation. In all I believe there were about 50+ crew and only 24 guests aboard. Along with the crew, we were introduced to the Akorn staff that accompanied us on the tour. They broke the group of 24 guests into even smaller groups and assigned hosts to them. Our US group of eight was hosted by Ahmed. He was available to us for any questions about the tours along the way. I spoke with him at the Welcome Cocktail Reception that followed. He had started as a guide when he first began in the tourism industry and later moved to management in the office. He told me that it was a great fit for his abilities and skills and that he enjoyed it even more than his time guiding. I thought he was a great host and we got to hear him tell stories about his little baby girl. You could see his face light up with that look of a proud adoring father.

Dinner was served a la carte following the cocktail hour. We had a choice of two different appetizer/salads, a soup, two main courses, and two delectable desert choices. We relaxed and got to know everyone around the table a little bit.

May 8, 2010

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Saturday

Edfu, Egypt

Last night was not very restful, and so this morning I woke up a little nauseous and not ready for the big day ahead. At about 6 o’clock this morning we started to set sail. I was a little nervous about the movement because I easily get motion sickness. However, the movement was so subtle that you can hardly tell you are moving unless you look out the window. Matt was finally sleeping better and the fever had broken in the very early morning. He still wasn’t feeling well enough to eat anything but at least he was keeping the fluids down. We figured that he had food poisoning, but the only thing different that he had from me was lamb at the hotel. It was surprising that the Fairmont would have something like that but I guess food poisoning can really happen at any establishment. Ahmed wanted to know the details because they write a report and contact the restaurant whenever a traveler gets sick. He said its best to do it this way so the restaurant managers are aware of the issues and investigate the problems. He also said that the crew on the ship is specially trained in proper food preparation skills by an outside company that works with five star hotels and restaurants and comes to Egypt to do the training. Its nice to know they are so thorough.

I go out for the breakfast buffet which looks wonderful but I feel so nauseous that I’m not able to eat any of it. I remember that I took a bit of Matt’s lamb to taste it last night. Such a shame to be sick on a cruise with such amazing cuisines. I tell Zainab on the way back to our cabin that I will not be able to make it on the tour. I would hate to get out there and we sick for the hours in the sun. She said that it is better to rest up today if we are sick because she wants us well for tomorrow in Luxor - the best part of the tour and the final evening on the ship. I head back to the cabin and fall into bed. We end up sleeping until lunchtime when the group returns and we receive a call. Zainab recommended that we get up and try to eat something. We force ourselves to get up and head to the dining hall. Nothing sounds good but we’re able to have a couple Sprite’s to settle the stomach. Kelly and Kent, a couple that works in Africa, swear by the power of Pepsi to cure all stomach woes. Maybe we’ll try that next time.

Matt and I rested a bit more and then attended afternoon tea time. Food was starting to sound good again. The kitchen staff offered to make anything that we would like -toast, broth, or other light meals. They are very accommodating. After tea, I went to the a cooking class presented by the head chef. He taught us how to make baba ganoush, _________, and a creme brulee desert. Not as intimidating as I had once thought. It is an interactive experience and I enjoy the comments from my fellow cruisers. The people we have met on the cruise come from diverse and interesting backgrounds. Its been fun to get to know them.

This evening, the crew held a galabaya party for the guests. Some guests purchased the galabayas (which are long dresses with interesting Egyptian designs on the front) while they were out today at the temples. There’s also a gift shop onboard and I chose from one of the galabayas he has for $15. Matt finds another one for men that is $10 and wears this with his shama from Yemen around his head. We meet again for a short cocktail hour and then the crew invites us upstairs to the outside dining area where they have arranged a beautiful buffet of traditional Egyptian food. Afterwards, we hear music and singing coming from the lounge below. It slowly comes closer, until several of the crew appear with drums singing and dancing in their galabayas. They invite us to join and everyone descends to lounge area once again. The dancing is so beautiful to me and there is one younger man in the crew in particular who is fun to watch because of his enthusiasm. He gets all of the guests involved. After a time of celebrating and dancing we retire to our cabin and get ready for our busy day tomorrow.

May 9, 2010

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Sunday

Luxor, Egypt

I woke up this morning, had breakfast and went to the top deck of the ship. The sun had just risen and the river was peaceful as we cruised along. I took pictures of the fisherman and farmers out on the banks. I wonder what they think of all these boats filled with tourists passing by to look at the ancient wonders of their country. We dock at Luxor and the day begins. Akorn has its one private docks and we take a few smaller boats to the other side of the river. Each covered boat is driven by a young boy who looks not much more than 16 years old. He along is in charge of steering and docking the heavy metal boats. What was I doing at the age of sixteen?

We arrive on the other bank and are greeted by the usual crowd of vendors selling trinkets. We head out in an air conditioned bus to the Valley of the Kings about a 20 minute drive from the shore. Along the way, Zainab explains that the look of a person’s grave tells a lot about their class. The shallower the grave, the poorer the person was. That is why the pharaohs have large and extravagent tombs that are dug deep into the center of the earth. We are not allow to take cameras into the sites but I’ll try to explain it as best I can. We get on a little cart/train that takes us about a third of a mile up the hill to the entrance. Its not even 10 am and already the sun is beating down on us. I look around at all people from around the world dressed in strange and interesting attire. Several of the women have short skirts/shorts and tanktops on. I would not recommend this for two reasons. 1) It is disrespectful to the culture you are entering as a guest and 2) You get sunburned so easily and dehydrated with the more skin you show. There were so many uncomfortable people that you saw bright red sunburns on their faces, necks, and arms. Looked so painful. I would definitely recommend bringing lighter, wicking materials. Most days I work a pair of lightweight patagonia pants and light linen long-sleeved shirts. A hat with a wide brim would have come in handy to protect my ears from the sun but I made due with a baseball cap.

I the Valley of the Kings, Zainab was not able to accompany us into any of the tombs but she would stop outside even and give us a description before we entered. Even though it was the off season, there were crowds of people and always a line to enter each tomb. Once you did, you followed in a single file line to end and back. The colors and designs were amazing on the walls and ceilings. I likes how Zainab pointed out little details to us so that we knew what to looks at once inside. For example, with one of the tombs she explained the pharoah died at a young age so they had to hurry up and finish it before the 70th day when he needed to be placed in the tomb. We noted this as we saw the less detailed work on the walls and the uneven carvings on the ceilings. We would not have known without our wonderful guide.

There were over 65 tombs in the valley and they opened and closed them to keep one from wearing too much. Some you had to pay an extra entrance fee to visit but Zainab said it really wasn’t worth it. The last one that we went to we climbed up a hill into a canyon and then down this small tunnel to the tomb below. I would caution anyone who has claustrophia to go it this one and a few of the people turned back. The tomb was a little suffocating with the heat and humidity. All the sweat and breath of the tourists create the humidity. The tombs were also a little tricky to walk around in and I could see that it would be difficult for anyone who had limited mobility or was elderly to enter. I had to hang onto the railings so I wouldn’t fall on the slick rock in some places. But with the heat and humidity and claustrophia it was still worth it of course! You had to sit back and marvel at the detail that the artists took. Just amazing!

After this we went to the Temple of ________ around the hill in just a short bus ride. The pictures do not do it justice. Zainab took us to the most well preserved part of the temple and showed how the pictures had been defaced so that the soul of the Queen would not recognize where her body was. I kept thinking that someone must have hated her to do that. Why else would you take so much time to meticulously chip out the image of her that stands 10 or 20 feet tall on the buildings?

Next was the Valley of the Queens which was not as crowded because by the time we got there it was past noon and scorchingly hot. Your body does get used to the heat and you expect to be sweating from the moment you set off the bus to when you return. Zainab said there’s always a few in her groups that return to the bus because of the heat. Some do not even get off the ship for any of the excursions she said. What a shame to be in Egypt midst all of these ancient wonders and never see them!

After the Valley of the Queens we bused back to the ship and along the way she showed us several sites that are being excavated still. They estimate that only 25% of the antiquities in Egypt have been found thus far. The rest are waiting to be uncovered. I could tell Zainab was excited about this and she told Matt he would have to come back to Egypt to help with an excavation. She also said that Egypt welcomes crews from outside nations to come in a do the digs because the country does not have the resources or money to fund all these expeditions. It was sad to her however, that the majority of the findings where done by foreigners in her country. There was one archeologist from Egypt who was trying so hard right now to be the first domestic crew to excavate a tomb in the Valley of the Kings.

After lunch we went to the Temple of Luxor which was larger than any we had seen so far. To was amazing to walk up to it across a huge park area. Zainab said that this area used to house a village of local workers selling their wares to tourists. The government shut it down and move the people to a different location in the city. Now it was more hygienic and appealing to tourists. I was sad that this was the case but also saw how it attracted more tourists and therefore more money to the city.

The outside wall surrounding the temple was close to ten feet thick! Inside were rows and rows or columns. Zainab did a great job of weaving us through the crowds of hundreds of people. I couldn’t understand how anyone is a group of 30 or 40 people could hear their guides. Some had microphones and each tour member had an earpiece. It just seemed so impersonal and you couldn’t ask questions like we did to Zainab so often. I was thankful for our small group of 8 people. Zainab showed us the highlights of the temple and then escorted us back to the boat because she saw everyone getting tired.

That evening we had our fairwell dinner which was amazing as usual. This time everyone dressed up even more and the waiters had white gloves on to serve us. They brought out an ice cream cake that was in the shape of the pyramids and lit it on fire! They had a performance then by a bellydancer who invited us each to come dance with her individually. Some of the travelers really got into it and you could tell everyone was having a good time. Then came the whirling dervish show. I don’t know how that man didn’t fall over with all the twirling. It’s interesting to see men doing feminine dancing in a culture where men’s and women’s roles seem to be so defined. He did a spectacular job and afterwards one of the Akorn executives thanked us all for coming. We went around and said goodbye to everyone and exchanged business cards. What an interesting group of people from Argentina, Mexico, Chile, South Africa, and the states. I hope to see them again. We all said thank you to Zainab and each contributed a tip in an envelop had been put together by on of the guests. She did a great job every part of the way and had been so entertaining not only on the tours but also at meals and tea times. She made the trip a great experience.

May 10, 2010

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Sunday

Cairo, Egypt

We got us this morning, ate breakfast, and went off to the Luxor airport. Flying on Egypt Air has been an experience. The pilots do not seem to be as precise in their calculations and we had a hard landing in Aswan when we arrived. They say the difference between flying in Egypt versus anywhere else is that the passengers burst out in applause when you land safely in Egypt.

The company representatives met us outside the baggage claim and escorted us to our next flight to Sharm el Sheikh. One of them gave us his business cards and wrote down his cell number for at time of the day. He said he was responsible for us while we were in Egypt and asked us to call him if we were in need of anything. I have been very impressed by the professionalism and courtesy of all the staff and I hope we will return some time. I think we have only scratched the surface of all that we could see along the Nile and in Cairo. Now onto the next part of our adventure in Dahab. . .

May 16, 2010

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Sunday

Cairo, Egypt

It has been a long, wonderful day and we are now in the Cairo airport at 2:30 in the morning waiting for our 4:30 flight to Amsterdam and then home to the US. My goodness the time has passed so quickly! We slept in this morning until 9am. Which usually for me doesn’t feel like a long time but here in Egypt the sun seems to rise so early and the heat descends on the city so you feel like it is the afternoon before 10am. Wawa was up as well and making pancakes in the kitchen. We had a picturesque breakfast on the terrace and made plans for the day.

We hailed a cab and then the metro to downtown. They took us to the American University of Cairo and to the new bookstore. You have to show your ID before you can even enter the building and go through a security scanner. But once you step thorught the doors you feel like you are back in the states in the AC and clean shop with peaceful music in the background. We shopped around and then Wawa had to study for finals so Kristen took us to the island in the Nile and to a wonderful fair trade shop. She was telling us that there is a whole city of people within the city of Cairo that live in the dump. They sort and recycle the trash in order to make housewares, decor, jewelry, and other trinkets. They take every piece of material and reuse it which is amazing to me. To find the shop you definitely have to know where you are looking. It is on the second floor of a nondescript building on the island. We had to knock on the door and the shopkeeper opened it for us to reveal a bundle of treasures inside. No one would know passing by. We ended up spending 2 hours and over $200 dollars in gifts for family and friends and a few special items for ourselves: decor for the house, nice linen shirts/skirts/galabayas, jewelry, scarfs, and wooden carvings. It was so nice to shop in peace without having to haggle with the vendors and the AC allowed us to escape the suffocating heat outside. The company was also fair trade so they paid the artists and craftsmen a fair price for their work.

My Photo Album: Egypt Cruise Adventure: The Pyramids, Cairo, Aswan, and more