USA Today Logo New York Times Logo Outside Magazine Logo Conde Nast Traveler Logo National Geographic Traveler
Create your Trip Journal [click here]

En Voyage - South America Trip

By : Brigitta Ouellette
Trip Begins February 3, 2009
Trip Ends February 25, 2009

South America Trip: We spent about a week in Buenos Aires, touring the barrios and sights. We then embarked on the Patagonia Panorama 14d Adventure and finished it off with a couple of days in Santiago Chile.
See my photos : En Voyage - South America Trip

Want to go? Patagonia Panorama

I went to: Chile, Argentina, Patagonia, Santiago, Punta Arenas, Puerto Natales, El Calafate, El Chalten, Paine Grande Mountain Lodge, Refugio Los Cuernos, Las Torres EcoCamp, Buenos Aires, Perito Moreno Glacier, Laguna Torre, Lago Electrico, Torres del Paine
[enlarge map]
[reduce map]
February 3, 2009
Top

Relaxing in the Lounge

Toronto, Canada

So the ground hog saw his shadow... Great.. just wonderful. Did it have to be this year? Checking the weather networks and sure enough we are getting some. So, rather than wait for the weather... we have opted to outfly it. We were able to change our flights and leave a whole 12 hours earlier than planned. Of course, we will spend that 12 hours wandering around the Toronto Airport, but at least we will be outflying this storm.

We left home at 4:30 AM and got a drive to the airport with a cabby. Just so happens that the cabby was fresh back from a trip to South America herself... what were the chances of that happening?! We took that as a good omen.... and it seems we have been successful thus far in outrunning the weather. Keeping my fingers, toes (and soon my eyes) crossed; we are still set to depart at 10:55 PM this evening. Current weather in Buenos Aires, partly cloudy and a high of 30C.

Spent the morning in downtown Toronto. We are now just relaxing in the Mapleleaf lounge, enjoying the finer things in life ;o) and looking forward to meeting up with the advanced party that is eagerly awaiting our arrival.

February 4, 2009
Top

Buenos Aires - In constant movement

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Okay... now I expected a big city... a busy city.... but this place is huge and it doesn´t sleep. It´s in constant movement. Giant masses of people moving about in anything motorized... and the noice... WOW. They also drive like maniacs. Shifting gears, grinding them, making the engines throttle at high speeds... blearing horns... braking at the last possible minute... and that was just a cab ride! I´m not really sure why there are any painted lines on the pavement... they are simply not required or respected. Single lane street have upto three cars wide at any time. There were even some streets that have upto nine actual lanes accross, all going in the same direction (you do the math).

We spent the day walking around the San Telmo, Centro, and Puerto Modero barrios.

These picture are from a pedestrian street... called La Florida. As the day progressed, more and more people came out. The street is lined with stores... selling everything under the sun. Prices also fluctuate from one store to the next... as much as 50%.

We stopped along the way to enjoy a large cup of coffee. At least it´s a large by argentinian standards, we would consider it an extra small. Coffee is always served with a small glass of "agua con gaz" (mineral water). Havn´t figured out why yet... but maybe it´s because it´s served extremely, piping hot. Yup...I burned my tongue on my first sip!

Buenos Aires natives are friendly. Their spanish is extremely fast, however, the language barrier isn´t there. Thus far we have been able to communicate, albeit with hand and face gestures, pointing, using english and french, actually it´s much similar to playing charades... and they are very good at figuring out what we mean ;o)

February 6, 2009
Top

Gardens, Museums, Cemetaries and The Subte

Buenos Aires, Argentina

The Subte; an underground train with the ability to move people rapidly... all under the city´s belly. Now using the subway is a regular affair for Sue... however, for Serge and I not so much.

We had however practiced in Toronto while on our layover, so we felt ready to face the underground adventure. We started our journey very easily, hopping on the Subte as we were regulars... but, by the time we made our transfer things got a little busy, verrryyy cozy and highly aromatic.

The Subte; an underground train´s who has the ability to move masses and masses of people rapidly! We did however successully maneuver the sea of people and get to our destination without any extra ticket purchases or scenic routes!!

Popping out of the underground, we came into the Recoleta barrio. Quite different than the San Telmo one we came from.

First of all it´s green... lots of trees.... secondly it´s richer and newer, the sidewalks even allow for two people to walk side by side. Although it´s just as busy as the rest of Buenos Aires...

We did a lot of walking around Recoleta, taking in the sites. The School of Law, a massive building that is part of Buenos Aires University.

They also have a humongous flower garden... actually it´s a single flower that opens at dawn and closes at dusk.

Recoleta also has a unique tourist attraction... a cemetery.

Eerie isn´t it??!!... Not a place I want to walk around in after dark... but it was really impressive the see the number of tombs that were there. It´s like a city within a city. Some of the tombs are maintained, some are quite let go and even vandalised.
Palermo was another barrio we walked through. Did I mention we did a lot of walking? Palermo is home of most of the foreign embassies, it is also home of the Malba museum. The Malba holds a collection of modern latin american art that attracts many visitors, but, personally, it was the building itself that was the attraction. Modern, sleek and lots of windows! An engineering marvel.

February 7, 2009
Top

Buenos Aires - Land of Opportunities

Buenos Aires, Argentina

After having spent several days wandering the different barrios within Buenos Aires, we´ve come accross some neat part-time job opportunities:

1- Dog walker.

Pros -You get your exercise, get to walk around outside and get paid doing it.
Cons - All those dogs stopping to mark their territory.

2- Pickup & Delivery person.

Pros: You get your exercise, learn to maneuver heavy traffic while wielding a loaded basket, get familiar with all the city streets and meet new people.
Cons: Cobble stone streets & no stop signs.

3- Building painter.

Pros: You get to hang around taking in all the sites from a unique vantage point!
Cons: Windy days!

4- Newspaper stand proprietor.

Pros: You´re up-to-date on all that is going on, enjoy the great outdoors and people come to see you.
Cons: On a bad day, you´re stuck with yesterday´s news.

5- Car wash proprietor.

Pros: With a city that has over 16 million people, you will never run out of cars to wash.... you are outside and cooling off with the water.
Cons: 16 million cars to wash.

February 8, 2009
Top

Markets and Dancing in the street

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Markets are everything here. On sundays, streets are closed down and local enterpreneurs setup their boots selling anything and everything; books, vegetables, antiques, t-shirts, sweaters, scarves, pots & pans... you name it... they sell it!

Along with the street vendors, out come the street performers. Performers of all ages, but all talented!

After having taken in the markets, we decided to visit some of the smaller barrios within Buenos Aires, those less travelled by tourists. We basically rode around on the Subte, popping out to street level in different barrios and walking around, having a look. Much like Shubenacadie Sam having a look around for his shadow... and yes... we did see our shadows; they were sunburned and sweaty ;o)

We cooled them off with a tasty helado.

February 9, 2009
Top

Ciao! Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires, Argentina

Our last day in Buenos Aires was spent shopping. We walked along La calle Florida in San Telmo and took in the atmosphere.

Honestly, anyone planning on taking a course in Marketing or working in the retail sector, should take a walk along La Florida. Every single store has an employee outside, dedicated in bringing the person walking along the street into the store. They have handouts that you don´t even realize you´ve accepted... next thing you know you are walking along with several different flyers. They are also multi-lingual... they can speak in enough languages to get you into the store; "Hola... ¿como estan? Oh... speak Inglis... where you come from? Parlez francais? Special deal for you... only today. Factory leather specials today only!... " No pulling the ¨No comprende¨ card.

There are also different artists that line the sidewalks... musicians, knick knack peddlers and even mimes like the fellow below.

Oh... and for those of you wondering how Serge coped with all this shopping ;o)...

¡Ciao Buenos Aires!

February 10, 2009
Top

Les buenos aires de El Calafate

El Calafate, Argentina

As we left Buenos Aires, we left a lot of things behind. The busy city, the noice, the people, the smells... and the sun. Flying over to El Calafate was a very interesting affair. First there was nothing but water.... then there was nothing but dirt. From above, the land was all brown... from as far as the eye can see...nothing but brown... like a desert. As we approached El Calafate, the plane ride was getting rougher and bouncier.... yup it was windy! Deplaning and walking into the airport was an experience.... the wind was sooo strong. Just like a good windy snow storm back home.

Our guide, Pedro, was waiting for us at the airport and he quickly husled us into a van. There was no time for exploring El Calafate.... El Chaten awaited us.

A three hour bus ride, which I had expected to be on nothing but dirt roads was actually a wonderful experience. We passed Lago Argentina (Lake Argentina), a massive glacier fed lake. It´s color a light green... beautiful! Matching the brown landscape.... which we came to find out was the ¨Steppe¨ The views in this isolated land were incredible. It´s all sky and brown land... with a ribbon of paved road going through it.... flat land bordered on both sides, in the distance, by some mountains. The land is sparkled with patches of dune grass here and there as well as small bushes called Calafate. The Steppe is also host to some wild life.... we saw some pink flamingos, some condors and a male ostrich with 27 children!

We arrived in El Chaten. El Chaten is a small village with about 700 permanent residents, surrounded by moutains and glacier fed rivers flowing strongly through it. It has outstanding views of Fitz Roy mountain on clear days. Its people are really friendly and welcoming and the food is delicious. It also serves as the gateway to Los Glaciares National Park.... home of some of the largest glaciers still existing, and our playground for the next couple of days.

February 12, 2009
Top

Mountains, lotsa water, glaciers & real hot chocolate

Lago Electrico, Argentina

We spent several days trekking about the park, guided by Pedro.

The first trek, a day hike, we left our hostelleria "la Casa de Piedras" and hiked to the base of a mountain. We had lunch and then we walked up the side of the mountain and were rewarded with views in all directions. The most outstanding thing was the wind. It was blowing at about 80km/h and it made for very interesting walking and some really fantastic hairdos.

After spending another night at our cozy inn, we packed our personal gear for the porters and headed out for two nights of back country camping. It was raining and had been raining all day... but it was also windy. The wind would dry you as fast as the rain could soak you. Kinda wash and dry at the same time, minus the spin cycle. The weather didn't matter! The views were still rewarding... snow capped mountains, green lakes, ice fields and glaciers. Occasional views of wild life, just walking along the trail being serenaded by the wind in your hair and Pedro singing a tune.

We arrived at the camp site and our "chef" had a snack all set up. The table was setup with snacks, coffee, tea and even wine. We were then served a cream soup, followed by the main course and it was followed with a postre, i.e. a dessert. Hmmm sounds better than what I make at home.

The last day with Pedro was the most challenging one. We were trekking to the glacier. We had picked up some harnesses and some crampons and then made the trek to the glacier. It was raining... still... and by this time the rivers and streams had been rising. Our first challenge was to cross an extremely fast moving, glacier fed, i.e. freezing cold, river, using a zip line. As the zip line gets wet, it stretches and as the heavier people move along it... it stretches. Needless to say that a bunch of Canadians and Americans using the zip line... stretched it! We all made it accross... and may I add that this has got to be one of the best abs workouts I have done in a while!

The second challenge was to cross a mad rushing stream that was cascading down the side of the mountain. This stream had increased in size and depth due to the continuous rain we had been having. Now... remember we were drenched... or at least we thought we were... but oh no!.... Pedro scoured the stream side looking for the best passage... and he found it. Basically he said, put your foot here.... yup in a spot of white water ...... so I did... a spot of white rushing water that went half way to my knees, and yes.... I was then completely and totaly drenched! You know the kind... where you here the squich, squich as you walk and feel the water between your toes.

But it was worth it! The glacier was fantastic. The large volume of ice, the different shapes, the clear water running along it. The thought that a single small black rock laying upon it's surface, drawing the heat of the sun, can be the originator of some of the crevaces running along it's surface. Being a little wet was a small price to pay... besides the sun came out about an hour later, drying us off as if we had never been wet.

We arrived back in town, changed and quickly headed to the Chocolateria.. it was 17h30 and our bus was leaving at 18h00. The Chocolateria is simply a little wooden shack that sways with the wind. It serves fantastic hot chocolat and nice cold cervezas. By the time we had our drinks it was 17h55... being the ever time conscience person that I am... I mentionned that we should be going... Pedro just smiled and said.... hey... you are on Patagonian time!

February 15, 2009
Top

Perito Moreno Glacier...Awesome!

Perito Moreno Glacier, Argentina

Perito Moreno Glacier is one of the few glaciers that is stable and not receeding. Although it keeps providing a continuous amount of fresh water, it is also receiving enough snow to keep it's current size.

As our boat took us from one side of the lake directly to the base of the glacier, all you could see was this massive blueish mountain. Once at the base of the glacier, we left the boat and strapped on some crampons... we got the opportunity to walk on the blue monster. I've tried coming up with some words to describe the panaroma, the feeling, the amazing sites and sounds... all I can come up with is AWESOME! The glacier is really blue... and has been sculpted by winds, seasons and time.

Walking along crevaces, shallow and deep alike, tinted with differening hues of blue.. simply AWESOME!

Towering columns of ice, several stories high, that, with a thundering rumble, tumble into the water, rolling over and over in the waves it created to finally settle and just float quietly along, slowly melting away. AWESOME! There is no other word than that except perhaps ....

..... CHEERS!

1-5 of 54 imagesMy Travel Photo Album


Share