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Enough Stairs For A Lifetime

By : Mark and Patricia Ryan - Anchorage, Alaska
Trip Begins October 15, 2008
Trip Ends November 15, 2008

In summary, this was a month well spent. We cannot praise highly enough Adventure life for their assistance in putting all this together.
See my photos : Enough Stairs For A Lifetime

Want to go? Eric, Letty & Flamingo: 10 Day Tour, Panoramic Peru, Machu Picchu by Train

I went to: Galapagos, Peru, Ecuador
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October 15, 2008
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Arrive Lima

Lima, Peru

Our flight from Miami to Lima, the most Colonial city in South America, was uneventful except for taking the shortcut through Atlanta. The logic of this escapes me, but traveling business class made everything easy and comfortable. Upon arrival at midnight, it was a major relief to find our guide, Boris, with a sign "Adventure Life." He quickly got us loaded up and on the road; Lima has more than its fair share of maniacal drivers, even at this late hour. These guys are totally oblivious to turn signals, lands and numerous other traffic-control devices, but Boris managed to deliver us safely to Hotel Faraona.

October 16, 2008
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Lima City

Lima, Peru

There are many things to see, and one of the most impressive is the construction and decoration of churches. We are talking major ornamentation here that is mind-boggling in its detail and quantity. The Cathedral de San Francisco is a good example. A second item of interest is the money changers that infest the major streets. They wear special vests and hold onto large handfuls of cash. Apparently several at each intersection and more in mid block. They exchange currencies and make their living on the exchange rate.

October 17, 2008
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Enjoy the View

Lima, Peru

Down by the ocean we had lunch at Tony Roma's on a nice outdoor patio. We watched numerous hang-gliders soaring. Each one carried one tourist and was operated by a local guide. They launched from the clifftop and rode the air currents that came in off the ocean. It was scary just watching. Maybe I will try it in my next incarnation.

The only problem we encountered in Lima was a counterfeit bill I obtained from an ATM at a bank near our hotel. Pat tried to buy something with it, and the store would not accept it. Its denomination was 50 soles, about $17 U.S. We are certain that it came from the bank's ATM, but complaints to the bank were not successful. They insisted that it could not have come from their machine. We ate the loss.

October 18, 2008
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Travel to Cusco

Cusco, Peru

Flying to Cusco, we were again met by our Adventure Life driver, Andy, and transported to our hotel where we were greeted by our superb guided, Vidal. The Monasterio is a very classy place. We soon discovered that coming direct from Lima at sea level and staying in Cusco at 11,000 feet elevation was not a good move for us. Pat got sick late Saturday night and required a visit by a doctor on Sunday morning. Fortunately the hotel had available a room into which oxygen was piped 24/7. This allowed her to recover, and is was worth the additional $40 per day. Later in the trip I also got sick. Both of us developed intestinal trouble. Scatological discussions and comparisons during mealtimes are so intellectually stimulating. The breakfast was spectacular as was the service. When you left your napkin on the table to go for food, a waiter would appear and fold it precisely just so and replace it. Every time! Cusco has its own version of a redneck pickup truck: a small car carrying a sofa tied to its top.

October 21, 2008
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Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo

Sacred Valley, Peru

From Cusco, Vidal and we were driven down through the Sacred Valley to Ollantaytambo and then went by train to Machu Picchu.

October 22, 2008
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The Ruins!

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

Visiting the ruins fulfilled a long-time wish of Pat's. The setting is spectacular and awe-inspiring. We walked up and down countless steps and marveled at the sheer quantity of rock that was moved and used to build the place. It has a definite spiritual quality to it, and the area is spectacularly beautiful. We spent one night in The Sanctuary, which is a nice hotel a few yards away from the entrance to the ruins. Our room rate included our meals and open bar. No wonder we liked the place. It was hysterical to watch the waiters freak out when I told them they had forgotten to serve my main course. The beef tenderloin, when it arrived, was extremely tender and flavorful.

October 23, 2008
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Machu Picchu Serenade

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

Our guide, Vidal, gets nothing but the highest praise. I have climbed enough stairs for a lifetime. I also wish to mention the numerous talented musicians we heard perform at many of our stops. I was so impressed with the ones serenading us during lunch in the town of Machu Picchu that I bought a CD of theirs. The group is named "Quechua." I now listen to their wonderful music in my study.

October 25, 2008
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Arequipa to Colca Canyon

Arequipa, Peru

Our next stop was Arequipa, where we were assigned a new guide, Isabel, and on to Colca Canyon. The canyon is home to a flock of condors. Along with a hundred or so other tourists, we waited in vain for over three hours in hope of seeing these massive carrion eaters and never did see any except for one small one way off. I think they are a myth! During the long drive on a bumpy, rough, potholed road our driver spent most of the time on the left (wrong) side of the road "in order to make the ride as smooth as possible" and minimize wear on the vehicle. He did the same thing on the way back (??). Our lodging was at a new facility called El Refugio. It included a natural hot spring. The management seemed unconcerned when I found a scorpion in my suitcase. It was a small one anyway, and they were on a first-name basis with him. Our guide told us that there are lots of problems with alcohol abuse. The men drink, and the women work. I should be so lucky!

October 26, 2008
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Mingling with the Locals

Colca Canyon, Peru

Cusco and Arequipa are scenic towns, each having a central town square. The places are literally crawling with vendors, peddlers, and a few beggars. We were constantly approached by people trying to sell us things--most of which was junk. Their saving grace is that they are at least trying to make a living by working an not by begging. Many locals will pose for photos in their native garb and are sometimes accompanied by llamas or alpacas. One of these critters tried to eat the button off my shirt. The towns are also inundated by various types of police, all in different uniforms. There are national police, local police, traffic police and tourist police. I don not know whether the latter are protecting us from the locals or vice versa. The vast majority of the cars are all taxis. Do not trust signs on restaurants advertising credit cards. In one of them, even though the decals were on the door. To rub salt in the wounds, the scoundrel then tried to short change me. I caught him at it and loudly expressed my displeasure. Guess how much tip he got!

October 31, 2008
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Off to Quito!

Quito, Ecuador

In Quito we spent a total of six nights over three different visits at a wonderful hostal (yes, that is the way it is spelled) called Mansion del Angel. Some services and merchandise require a 22% tax on top of the price (ouch!). I am still puzzled by how Ecuador managed to get the U.S. dollar as its currency.

November 2, 2008
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On board the Flamingo

San Cristobal, Galapagos

We were highly impressed by the organization involved in visiting the national park that includes the Galapagos Islands. We sailed on "Flamingo", a vessel capable of carrying 20 passengers. Our trip had 17 from England, Germany, Australia, and America - a great, amiable group.

November 3, 2008
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Many days of Wildlife!

Genovesa, Galapagos

The most impressive experience was seeing all the various forms of wildlife which had no fear of humans. We could literally get within a few inches of many species of birds, sea lions, iguanas and tortoises. They accepted humans like just another animal species and were not threatened. We were very favorably impressed by the boat's crew and by the fact that the small craft could access all seven of the major islands that we have recommended the trip to many of our friends.

November 7, 2008
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Small Ship Cruising

Santa Cruz Island, Galapagos

Back in Santa Cruz it was a shock to see so many large vessels on the water that could not enter the small coves where we hiked, snorkeled, and swam.

November 11, 2008
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Relaxing on the Mainland

Papallacta Hot Springs, Ecuador

Back on the mainland we spent two wonderful days at the Papallacta Hot Springs where we enjoyed numerous soaks in therapeutic pools, massages, and good food and drink. Our guide, Luis, was very helpful and personable.

November 15, 2008
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Coming to an End

Quito, Ecuador

In summary, this was a month well spent. We cannot praise highly enough Adventure life for their assistance in putting all this together.

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