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Machu Picchu by Train - 7 days...well 8! :)

By : Shahnaz Ahmed
Trip Begins April 29, 2011
Trip Ends May 8, 2011

Wow! What a trip to Peru. I'm glad I hand wrote my journal and I'm hoping I can share with everyone. My trip to Peru and Machu Picchu was beyond spectacular.
See my photos : Machu Picchu by Train - 7 days...well 8! :)

Want to go? Machu Picchu by Train

I went to: Peru, Cusco, Lima, Sacred Valley, Ollantaytambo, Pisac, Machu Picchu, Machu Picchu Ruins, El MaPi
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April 29, 2011
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Flying there

Lima, Peru

At St. Louis airport, in flight. Bags checked to Lima at my request. The gal at the counter asked to check to Cusco, but decided against it as I needed my luggage at Lima. Next stop-Miami!

In flight to Miami was interesting. Sat next to an older woman. Can't make sure if she was just pessimistic about life or just careful. She told me about deaths related to travel disease. Also told me that Tuberculosis may be on the rise again! GREAT! All this because I told her I was carrying 2 bottles of water in my checked luggage. On a side note, I should have used the pens from my office. This pen is supposed to be new, but the pink one ran out of ink - oh well. So here I am in Miami and I'm supposed to meet up with Salman and no sign of him for 2 hours. No texts/call. Finally I hear from him. His text that he is in Orlando! Great. His flight got diverted by the storm and Obama was there. Myself on the other hand sat and worked on my play. I want to name it *Picture Perfect* but it's far from *They Throw Rocks*. I'm journaling on vacation and I'm writing about my play! Hmmm. Maybe I'm *part* writer. Who knows? Nothing notable to journal about hanging at Miami airport. I guess I'm looking to journal tonight from Lima!

So, flight landed and I don't know what was announced as I don't understand Spanish, but everyone applauded. That was interesting. The woman at immigration was very nice. I liked the *Welcome to Peru* and hotel was literally across the street. Someone offered this *senorita* a taxi as I was walking, but the word caught my attention. Never been called senorita before!

I knew I forgot something. Getting out of security you press a button and the lights go red or green. Purely random. Red your bags get X-rayed. My luck the X ray line was long also, but oh well. I can't wait to start my adventure today. :)

April 30, 2011
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Cusco, day 1

Cusco, Peru

7:45am. At airport waiting to board flight to Cusco. Water bottle was allowed. Nice to travel without fluid restrictions.
Breakfast was good. They had papaya juice and the watermelon was so red and sweet. YUMMY. There was a station where they made fresh eggs with the toppings of your choice. So good. Pancake was dried bread with syrup - interesting. Oh and then I realized the hotel had free wifi - yay to that! :)

Note: Salman mentioned air smelled like the cross between an ocean and a butcher shop. When I walked out of the hotel, I realized he could not have been more accurate.

IN TAPIKAYLA HOTEL
Views from Lima to Cusco were very pretty. Hotel is up a very narrow street. Got my first taste of coca tea. What does Coca tea taste like? Hmmm. Salman thinks its a cross between soy rice and something that is delicately sweet. I don't know. Tastes interesting though. Boris picked us up from the airport and went over our plan for the next few days. It's going to be fun and I'm sooo looking forward to it. Glad we added an extra day at Pisac.

CUSCO CITY TOUR - starting at 3pm
After nap, we had light lunch, chicken soup and Boris took us for a walking tour. The streets are cobblestone, very eclectic and narrow. And the buildings on either side are neat - The walls and the ways the huge stone blocks come together. Apparently, the stones were ground down with stones, sandpaper and water to make perfect butt joints.

We visited 2 churches. The first one was clearly demarcated with the break in the Inca culture and the Spanish colonization. Very nice open ground between the walls.

The second church was quite extravagant. I think Boris said cedar wood was carved and then plaster added to it and smoothed down. And then gold leaves were added and entire arches were gold. Very extravagant. Couldn't get pictures as it wasn't allowed. Boris has an accent and some of it is hard to understand, but it's not bad.

He showed us where to eat tonight and we had pizza. I normally don't care for pizza but this was amazing and really good. Soup was alright. Had fresh fruit juice. That was nice. Salman ordered inca cola and I tried some. It was good too. Next time, I'll order it instead. The internet connection here is VERY SLOW. I was lucky to logon this afternoon. I don't wish to logon just now as I'm journaling. Tomorrow, we're off to the Sacred Valley - day 1 is over.

May 1, 2011
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Chincero, Moras, Ollantaytambo

Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley

The day started with breakfast. Eggs were normal. There was papaya juice and pineapple juice. Had this interesting cereal called Kiwicha with strawberry yogurt. Was good!

First stop was Chincero. Again, narrow streets and lots of climbing. But before I start Chinceros, on the drive there, I saw upper Cusco City, the poorer population. Their homes are up top mountains and they have to climb their way there. Long narrow steps! Anyways, in Chinceros we visited a handicraft home. They showed us how they make their scarves. I felt raw wool of sheep and alpaca. Alpaca is much softer. The process is as follows: They take the raw wool and wash it in water and soap. Soap is from the root of a tree that is available 4 hours away. After they wash the wool, they dry it. Then they pull into yarns with their spinning wheels. Then they further strengthen yarns with double yarns spun together. They then die the yarn. They use NATURAL color. For green, they use the leaf of a particular plant and boil in water. For red, they use the blood of a particular parasite that grows on a cactus. They squeeze it and it is red. They use it as a natural 24 hours lipstick. Also they add lime to make color lighter. Some colors, they add salt to change. I think green changed to orange or something drastic. After dying the yarn, they actually weave it together and make patterns. It was very interesting. I went a little shopping crazy. I bought an alpaca sweater, shawl and hats. Then we visited the Chinceros ruins near the church and the agricultural tables. I hate to journal about it but I needed to use the rest room so badly that I couldn't focus much on the agricultural tables although they were beautiful. I was lucky there was one before heading down the street to the Chinceros market.

At the Chinceros market, they trade potatoes for vegetables. So local farmers bring their potatoes and are able to take home carrots, corn, tomatoes etc. Very neat system. Saw people drink corn beer. And the market in general was neat. They recycle everything. They make sandals out of car tires. I think they use some parts of the car to tie their animals. But market was a neat place.

Next stop was the circles of Moras. Saw the circles and ruins that were not completely excavated/renovated. And then we head on over to the Moras salt mines.

Here the river flows - 22% salt and they channel it into tables and over time the salt crystals start forming. White salt is for human consumption. Brown salt was for animals.

After salt mines we had lunch. Quinoa was this grain I liked. Had soup with it. Was very good.

And then we reached our hotel in Ollantaytambo. Smaller hotel, but still very cosy. Wifi signal is so low, it's next to impossible to connect from the room. After freshing up, we visited the ruins of Ollantaytambo. The climb was steep and difficult. I was quite out of breath between each table, but it was worth it.
Then on the way back drank some local tea with medicinal properties. It was very good.

Came back to the hotel, chilled. Then headed out to dinner. Soup and chicken/rice. Also I think Salman ordered some chicken pastry. Now, back to the hotel and time to sleep as there is a lot of walking again tomorrow. Did notice the lighting in the room is very poor, but I guess they use the rooms to sleep more than anything else.

May 2, 2011
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Pisac

Pisac, Sacred Valley

Day started at breakfast and drive to Pisac. In Pisac we hiked for a couple of hours up the mountain to reach the top, which was the priest's place or something like that. The climb and hike was on a trail on the cliff side of the mountain. I could get a good grip and footing, but there were a lot of loose stones too and that seemed scary to me. If I ever focused other than the trail, I could see far out and down and the realization of how high up I was really hit me and I'd be a bit scared because one false move or slip could mean certain death, but the views were amazing and the climb and hike was worth it. When we went up, we were able to climb to another look out point and really appreciate how beautiful the surroundings were. I don't think a camera could do justice to the views. I was quite blown away and glad I requested a trip of the Pisac ruins.

We stopped for lunch and after we got back to Ollantaytambo we walked the streets of the old buildings of the nobilities. Of course, they've been converted into touristy shops etc. but look magnificent from the outside.

Tonight is the festival of the cross here. People come to their altars, which look like in India, tiny places of worship with a model of Mary in it. The people hung a string of bread and fruits on the entrance as a symbol of asking the God to bless them with more of the breads, fruits etc. Basically, asking God to bless them with more prosperity. Then, we had a light dinner. I had taqueras - fried wonton with cheese. Served with fresh guacamole. Was great to eat. Tomorrow Machu Picchu!

May 3, 2011
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Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, Peru

How do I describe the start of this day? Well, for starters last night, my room mate Salman woke up pretty much every hour to first throw up and then sounded like significant diarrhea. I tried to sleep through it, but when I woke up Salman says he's NOT going and he's going to stay in Ollantaytambo! I was quite confused. He basically said his diarrhea was so bad he can't take the train. I couldn't convince him otherwise. I got ready and called Boris, our tour guide. Boris came and told him that there would bathrooms at the train station and the train. Besides this was Machu Picchu. He came so far for this! Boris told him he would get antibiotics and he should be fine. It was speculated that it might have been the *chicha* - an alcoholic drink made from corn. Anyways, that was speculated cause I didn't have any.

Finally we made out way to the train station after breakfast. Salman didn't have any breakfast other than black tea. I finished ALL the prickly pears and most of the mangoes. I think I've been eating really well on this trip and enjoying the new tastes.
Anyways, Boris let me take his seat as he had seats by the window on the left - the best way to go. Great views of the Urubamba river and of course the mountains. And then we got to the train station at Agua Calientes and went to our hotel El Mapi. Best hotel so far, but poor ventilation in the bath room! :(

Anyways, since we got to the hotel by 10am, our room was not ready. We left our luggage (overnight pack) at the hotel and off we went to a bus. The bus winded up the mountain on a very narrow lane on the ledge. I must say it is scary just ONE way, it is a lot scarier when a bus comes the other way and they manage to pass each other. The views of the mountain reminded me of Avatar - Pandora! Mountains converged with green and just plain beautiful in its grandeur. Tried to get pictures, but not clear from a window. Tried to take it all in. Then we went to Machu Picchu and there we were, looking out at the same mountains and the stream that ran below it. And of course, there was Machu Picchu. Set between these mountains. It was just beautiful. Like PARADISE. Can't describe it really. As we were going through Machu Picchu Salman had to go back for the rest room again! So, it was just me and Boris continuing on the tour. Later on we were able to find Salman and continued on tour. After the tour, we had options of going back to Machu Picchu and hanging out or climbing to the Sun gate. So, to the dismay of Boris, I wanted to climb the Sun Gate path. Boris joined me. Salman stayed back. The climb was an hour and tiring as it was fully uphill. Walk was easy but going up hill in the heat was difficult. But the views were great. Machu Picchu looked small from way up there, but the views were great. I was glad to know that Huayna Picchu mountain hike was still not higher than where I went so I'm glad. No desire to climb Huayna Picchu. Would be too scary for me and being so steep I'm sure I'll have a rough time up the mountain. So instead, tomorrow we go see a waterfall after an hour hike. I'm looking forward to it too, but I feel the highlight of my trip was today. Tomorrow we should be back in Cusco in the evening. Oh and the iced tea at the reception area in our hotel was great. But I can't drink much because I'm peeing like crazy due to hypoxia! But I'm doing well... :)

May 4, 2011
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Hike near Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

So basically breakfast and then we went on a hike by some train tracks. Scenery was gorgeous and stunning as usual. Walked through a garden with a lot of neat orchids etc. and got to see this waterfall. Was a small one but looked nice nevertheless.
I must say that the walk back was interesting. I know I haven't mentioned dogs yet, but I'd be amiss if I didn't as there were dogs everywhere. With my intense phobia, I've still managed to walk and ignore the dogs but today before the waterfall hike as were were going to pay for our tickets, the woman's (owner) dog kept coming towards me. I came so close that I did jump and get out of the way. Boris got mad. He said, *Never do that!* I tried to plead with him that the dog was to close, but Boris said doing that will make a dog attack me. And Boris assured me that he was right there with me. OK. So that happened. On our way back as we walked by the railway, I noticed these 2 women tourists and a dog was walking by them. Since we were walking faster, we almost caught up to them and the dog. They stopped at the local fruit vendor and that's where we stopped too. I got my first taste of Passion Fruit. LOVED it. Little slimy but sweet with consistency. Couldn't eat the seeds so we swallowed it, of course. I being a fruit junkie bought 2 more passion fruits and carried them in my hand. As we walked away, the dog decided to walk near us and of course, decided to walk more near me. And of course, I was freaking out and finally Boris said, *Put those fruits in your pockets. He thinks you are going to feed him.*

I did as I was told, but dog continued to walk by us. Salman and Boris decided to walk between me and the dog and tried to keep the dog away from me. I continued to walk faster. I wasn't walking with Boris or Salman, but I figured they'd meet up with me eventually and they did. When they did catch up with me, there was no dog. I think I asked Boris what happened to the dog and he came up with the preposterous story that he and Salman threw the dog into the nearby river or something like that. I think other than the dog part of the day, everything else was great.

Then back to the hotel, back on train. On the train was interesting. They had this man wear a tiger mask and dance with a stick and they had a fashion show where the steward/ess changed and walked down the train aisle to display clothing that can be purchased. Then back to Ollantaytambo to pick up luggage, in car to Cusco.

Stopped at pottery factory and saw how they make those neat pots, cups, etc. And then back to Cusco. Boris took us for some roast chicken. It's Peruvian as it's roasted in a wooden oven. Something about the flavor. I loved it anyways and Boris and Salman commented *What does she not like?*

Back to hotel. We met Luke sitting at the reception that evening and he was in Peru for 2 months. He'd already been there for a month. He showed us pictures of where he went. He showed us the caterpillar/butterfly rock. And then the entrance to a temple I cannot remember the name. He said he slept outside the gate and those nights his dreams were very strange. I asked him why strange. He said one night he dreamed he sued Yahoo! And other dreams, he had conversations with his dead friends/relatives. We went up to our room shortly after but Salman went out again to exchange money. Apparently Luke joined him. Salman said his 1 minute analysis of Luke was that Luke was getting over a long term relationship and this was his way of getting away. Well, I thought it was strange someone had the time/finances to be able to take 2 months off just to travel irrespective of one's personal situation.

I started packing, rearranging to see what else to buy if I could buy anything. I've spent $200 already!

May 5, 2011
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Saqusayhuaman, Cemetery and Cusco Local Market

Cusco, Peru

Now that I discovered Passion Fruit, had 2 for breakfast, among other things. Then off to the tour. We visited the local cemetery. Very interesting concept of never letting the person die and leaving stuff for them in their little glass head pieces. It was amusing. People left small models of coca cola, alcohol, and lot of other stuff. They leave a small glass of water as a symbol of getting something to drink on their way to heaven. Very different concept of death in this society. Essentially, the person stays alive - or they believe the spirit stays alive and comes and sits with them.

Then we walked to the local market through shady neighborhoods. Boris said we were fine with him, but not recommended alone! Also Boris said, the would NOT go to that neighborhood at night.

The local market was interesting. LOTS of EVERYTHING - meat, vegetables, fruits, cooked foods, cheese, spare parts, chocolates and coffee. Just EVERYTHING was a neat experience although stinky. I've been to fruit markets before but nothing so elaborate. I was impressed. Oh and I think I've forgotten to mention that the area produces 1000 varieties of potatoes, so yes, there was a potato aisle too.

Then we went to Saqsayhauaman. Another part of the Inca ruins that are left. LARGE boulders in a lightning zigzag pattern, with 3 levels.

Then off to the handicraft market. OOOPS - forgot lunch. Ate lamb at local restaurant and tried leg of a guinea pig. Guinea pig was tasty. Then we ate fruits - sweet cucumber, custard apple, and another fruit that was similar to the passion fruit but was more bitter. Boris' girlfriend joined us. Carmen was nice. Boris ordered her soup of beef with intestines and stomach. I ordered half of it and it was alright. I still prefer the soup I had in San Antonio at the mexican restaurant - beef with intestines. This was not like that at all.

Then we went to the handicraft market. I bought models of Machu Picchu and just random gifts like magnets. I fear $100 was gone today and I've exchanged another $50. I hope I can stop with that.

Oh and Boris arranged our tour tomorrow and arranged a car to pick us up at the airport in Lima. I hope all goes well with it.
It's strange. We're done with Boris now. I've added him as a Facebook friend if I need to contact him, but it's almost bittersweet. My trip is coming to a close. That's it for now.

May 6, 2011
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Tipon and Pikillacta

Cusco, Peru

This entry is a day late.

So yesterday started at the breakfast table with Ronnie our tour guide came up to Salman was asked if he was *Sohlmone*. Then he introduced himself. I was a bit worried because we were told last evening that our guide's name will be Daniel Chavez. I mentioned it to Salman. He did not think much of it. But as we left the hotel, Salman asked Ronnie about Daniel Chavez and apparently Daniel was sick.

So we had Ronnie as our tour guide. I really liked Ronnie. I could understand him much better than Boris and wished Ronnie had been our guide these past 7 days. Apparently he does the Inka Trail hikes (Boris does it too) and another trail that I can't recall the name to. He mentioned that on the Inka trail hike one day there are over 2000 steps to climb down. Would do a number on anyone's knees. He talked about the culture etc. etc. But for me since I had more trouble with Boris' accent I really enjoyed learning more. I asked him about Manu rainforest and he left his information with me before we finished our tour.

So, we went to Pikillacta. Pre-incan ruins. Floors made of gypsum almost 10 cm deep. And long streets lined with walls. No water pipes - or rather aqua ducts. There was a story of the Princess Sumotikka who lived in Pikillacta who said she'd marry the first guy who would be able to bring an aqua duct into Pikillacta. The story goes that 2 men got close. There are 2 paths for water in the far off mountain.

One man died trying. The other, well, he made it but the Princess will not have him and locked him up in a room full of fleas and he died. Was quite a story. I said, *there's a word for Princesses like that today.* Salman and Ronnie looked at me and I said, *bitch!* Got a laugh out of that. Salman said, *such a serious story and you had to say that!* I told him I was just breaking up the seriousness of the moment. For whatever reason, after that, Ronnie kept calling me a princess! Maybe he didn't understand my *bitch* comment - or rather I hope he didn't. Pikillacta was very nice. Next stop however was Tipon.
Of course bumpy bus ride. Ronnie said that we needed to mention these places more so that the tourism council may build better roads etc. Anyways, Tipon is irrigation pipes and the source of water is under ground and till today it flows. It was NOT touched by the Spanish and it's in its original form. Very beautiful terraces of green grass with the water paths that's still running.

Ronnie said that we should wash our hands in the water and wipe our heads with it. Apparently all our wishes will come true and it prevents grey hair. I just wished for happiness and heaven. And then we were back from the tour. I think my stomach was a bit upset from all the fruits I had eaten the day before, but I didn't have anything half as bad as what Salman had.

When we got back to Cusco we walked the streets looking for a coffee shop to buy more coffee. We finally found it after walking past it the first time around. I bought tea! And coffee for Yasmin as I wasn't able to buy her the big bag from the market the other day for fear of running out of room. I also bought mint tea and tea with cinnamon/cloves. Should be interesting.

Funny thing on the walk is that Salman got hungry and wanted lunch but he wanted something more *local*. I was fine. A- I wasn't hungry. B- Really didn't want anything local as I had already tried it all. So we stop at one stop and of course, the menu is in Spanish and Salman couldn't understand a thing. I'm like, *maybe we should just go someplace 'normal'*. Anyways, we ended up with him eating a chicken sandwich (how local!) and I had chicken noodle soup. Chicken noodle soup is so different. I don't like the pieces of chicken. Very bland. Anyways, we got done with coffee, lunch, and got to the hotel and packed our bags.

At night we went to eat dinner at the pizza place of our first night. I exchanged another $100. God knows where the money disappears. I think it's the exchange rate that throws me off. $1 = 2.8 soles. Then Salman watched the Julia Roberts movie, *I love trouble* but I couldn't seem to get into it from the middle and I went to sleep early at 9pm.

Oh and I noticed some bug bites on my right knee - several and one further up my thigh. Don't know how as I was wearing pants the whole trip. Hope it's nothing serious.

May 7, 2011
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Lima

Lima, Peru

Woke up early for breakfast and was already packed up from the night before so we were ready to go. Guy from Adventure Life had us fill out some form as an evaluation and then we were off in the van to the airport.

Guy came in with us and when we entered the confirmation number, it did not register. So, he made us stand in another line. The other line did not move for nearly 45 minutes. I went to look for help and the women would NOT help me. Apparently there was only one person at the counter and it was a mess!

I came back to Salman and the line hadn't moved. I was worried about missing my flight but felt better that the persons in front of us had the same flight as ours. After 45 mins, the line moved and everything was fine.

Very disappointed to get an aisle seat but other than that, was OK. Felt dizzy as flight was landing, but tried to keep focused on the 2 windows I could eye on either side. Got to Lima.

Luis Pari was waiting for us and picked us up and dropped us at the Marriott. On the way he also stopped at a park so we could take pictures. We left our luggage at the Marriott and went across the street to eat Chifa (Chinese in Peru). Was very good. Reminded me of Chinese in India or Dubai. They used ginger in their cooking and it majorly alters the flavor.

We made it back to the Marriott waiting for the Lima Vision Bus for our tour. Bus picked us up and then dropped us at another spot to transfer bus to an English guide.

I remember Plaza De Almas as there was one in Cusco also. I remember the garden with a lot of fountains. And of course the Catacombs. Wish we would have spent more time in Lima. So much to see. Tried to take a lot of pictures but won't know what building is what when I get home.

After tour came back to hotel - saw a lot of brides - 3 brides actually. The first 2 had beautiful gowns. The last bride's gown was OK.

And then Luis came to pick us up and took us to authentic Peruvian restaurant. Food was excellent. Had grilled white fish. It was so soft and tasty. Never had fish that good before. Luis asked if I could have a small Lukuma flavor ice cream. And so they went to a nearby shop to get my ice cream. Was very good also. And then stopped and got a T shirt for Riaz and myself. And off to the airport. Must say that the music on the way back Lima FM 88.3 was amazing. Last song was *I will survive*!

And so here I am at the airport. My iPhone says no signal and that worries me. This morning I had good signal and yet I'm not able to send a text now. Oh well. I hope the phone can connect OK in Miami. My mom knows I'm in Lima. Would have liked to let her know that I boarded etc. But I can't. Oh well! At least there's wifi here and I hope they got the email I sent them. And I hope I can connect in Miami.

To be honest, I'm looking forward to my home and my shower. Will be nice. And yes, I'm also looking forward to work on Monday despite Rachel! What else? Well, so ends my trip. Can't wait to plan my next trip, but let me get home safe first. :)

May 8, 2011
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Miami airport

Miami, FL

Flight got there on time, but I had a good 7 hour layover. I think I spent some time sleeping, some time charging my phone, some time talking on the phone. I wish I would have paid attention to the time as I had not changed my clock. When I went to get breakfast (my clock said 9:10am), it was too late. All the breakfast places had stopped serving breakfast and it was then I wished airports had IHOPS. But they don't. I think other than catching up on this journal, nothing else majorly comes to my mind. Oh yes, I was very tired from the overnight flight from Lima to Miami and having to do a 7 hour layover was not fun, but hey, that's how it goes. I was very glad when it was time to board and to get home and use my own shower. :)

My Photo Album: Machu Picchu by Train - 7 days...well 8! :)