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Peru trip 2010! Machu Picchu, Lake Titicaca and more

By : Lynessa Nelson
Trip Begins January 13, 2010
Trip Ends January 23, 2010

Our Peru travels took us from Lake Titicaca to the Sacred Valley and the fantastic Inca ruins of Machu Picchu. We finished our Peru trip with a few days in Cusco. Good people, great food, inspiring culture and unforgettable landscape.
See my photos : Peru trip 2010 (Part 2) Machu Picchu, Sacsayhuaman and more

Want to go? Machu Picchu by Train

I went to: Peru, Cusco, Lima, Sacred Valley, Machu Picchu Ruins, Puno, Amantani Island, Machu Picchu, El MaPi, Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Ollantaytambo, Q'Elqatani
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January 13, 2010
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Lift Off!

Orlando, FL

Four hours of driving, three hours of sleep, two lattes down and we are lifting off from the Spokane airport on the way to our first adventure in Peru! As the plane's wheels come off the ground, I feel a slight sense of the butterflies in my stomach. I always remember flying for the first time when I was younger and the overwhelming feeling of excitement it brings. I kind of miss that feeling. I guess I have to settle for the butterflies that are stirred up with thoughts of our first look at Machu Picchu! My husband and I look at each other every few minutes and smile at the realization that we will be in Peru in just a few short hours. I look at the passengers around us who do not have a clue of where we are going or what our story is. I have just a pinch on anxiety about the next step of our adventure - 30 minute layover in Salt Lake. Praying for clear skies and helpful flight attendants. Here goes!

January 14, 2010
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We Made It!

Lima, Peru

Thursday - Finally made in to Lima this evening after a horrible layover in Orlando. Spent the night there after 2 planes failed on us with an emergency landing. Ready for some sleep at this time. We arrive into the airport half asleep and irritated at the unhelpful flight crew. But we're here in Peru so the irritation slips away at we step onto the jet way. The sound of the crowd and humidity from outside hit us at we exit baggage claim. Several taxi drivers try to lure me into their cars, but we are on a mission to the Ramada Inn directly across the street.

We settle in and are so thankful for the peace and quite, and the AC! The Ramada was beautiful and the staff very helpful. We relax in the bar, sipping on our complimentary Pisco Sours. Now we're ready for the adventure tomorrow. I call our local contact on the tour voucher to make sure all arrangements have been made for our tour on Lake Titicaca tomorrow, since our travels were delayed 24 hours. Everything's set!

January 15, 2010
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Sleep walking on the Islands

Amantani Island,

Friday - After only 2 hours of sleep with we stagger out of our hotel room in a rush at 2:45am to catch our 4:00am flight to Juliaca. Our alarm didn't wake us at 1:30am as planned. We race across the connecting walkway from the hotel to the airport, thankful that we don't have to run across the street. We made it - with plenty of time to spare.

We touch down in Cusco on the way to Juliaca and I crane my head out the back door and take our first photo of the landscape. Can't wait to come back and enjoy Cusco.

At the Juliaca airport, we're met by our transfer driver and guide, who rush us off on the hour drive down to Puno. We make it just in time to catch our boat after our guide helps us get cash out at a local ATM and seasick medicine from a pharmacy. We down some coca tea which helps to take the edge off of the altitude sickness that's setting in. I'm kind of a weak traveler I've noticed over the years. I will usually get some kind of illness while traveling - BUT that won't keep me from going!

We go to the floating islands and are welcomed by the local ladies singing a traditional song of welcome. How beautiful! We hang out for a bit and learn about how the islands are constructed from reeds and take the typical tourist photos - still a lot of fun.

On to Amantani Island where we are met by our host mama. She walks us up the hill (which seems like Mt. Everest with the altitude) taking frequent stops to humor us as we catch our breath. But its all worth it when we reach our community of Colquecachi. Beautiful view! We rest for a bit at the house. Our room is on the second floor and the set up is with a courtyard in the middle of the house and kitchen to the side.

We go for a hike with our personal Adventure Life guide to Pachamama and Pachatata - the two peaks of the island where they hold festivals. Then we go back and eat dinner with our host family. Matt and I brought sugar and flour for the family and coloring books for the kids as a gift. they don't recommend candy because there is no dental care on the island.

That evening they dress us up and take us to a dance at the community center. Wonderful music and great company! Even though I am exhausted at the end of the night I still find it hard to sleep with the altitude. Its an interesting feeling - uncomfortable but nothing that you can't deal with for a short time while on an adventure!

January 16, 2010
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Altitude Sickness

Q'Elqatani, Puno

The next day we say goodbye to our host family :( and motor on to the Taquile Island. We walk around the island with our guide and group then have lunch on the top looking out over the Lake Titicaca. Gorgeous! We keep thinking we're in the Mediterranean with all of the beautiful blues and greens of the clear lake waters.

Afterwards, we head back for the 3 hours motor to Puno. In town we check in to our hotel Q'Elqatani. Its a beautiful classic looking hotel with extremely comfortable beds. They bring up our baggage and cups of coca tea. I'm learning to love the tea - it does bring relief from the altitude sickness - which refuses to leave me alone. I try to sleep but its no use. I'm guessing Cusco will be a great relief at a lower elevation. This is why I guess they recommend acclimating in Cusco for a day or two before going to Lake Titicaca. Smart! I'll have to remember that next time!

January 17, 2010
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Bus ride to Cusco

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco

Last night when we checked into the hotel - the local tour office brought us our tickets for the bus ride to Cusco. They also had us fill out an evaluation of the Titicaca experience which I thought was great since its fresh in your mind at that time.

I'm feeling tired and sick to my stomach from the altitude but surprisingly the bus ride is not that bad. We stop every hour to visit different sites along the way and the attendant brings us our choice of juice, water, coffee or coca tea after each stop.

When we arrive into Cusco, we're met by our driver who's holding a sign with our name on it. He takes us to the Taypikala Hotel where we met our guide, Ayul. He gave a rundown of what to expect for the next few days and gave us some great recommendations for where to eat.

We went to the main square and were rained on a bit along the way. Good idea to bring a light rain jacket. Exchanging money ended up being more of an ordeal than I expected, but with Ayul's instructions we figured it out. The money exchangers wouldn't take anything below a $20 bill so we ended up keeping our $1s, $5s, and $10s for tips along the way. The local currency is the Sol and I would suggest getting several one's to use as tips and for street vendors along the way. They don't break a $50 very easily.

January 18, 2010
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Tour of the Sacred Valley

Ollantaytambo, Sacred Valley

Today was wonderful! We met up with the rest of our tour group, a young man and woman, in the hotel lobby. Along the way to the Sacred Valley we stopped to look at how they make the famous Peruvian tapestries and clothing from alpaca wool. It was interesting to hear Ayul's explanation about the different kinds of vicunas, alpacas, and llamas. Then we saw how they make the fabric dyes and how the ladies weave their goods. Note: tip them when you take photos! Its only polite!

Next we went to Pisac ruins and the market in the town below. Its a bit of a hike around the ruins but worth it. You have a sense of accomplishment when you return to the parking lot and realize it not that hard! The beauty of the surrounding mountains is breathtaking and we learned that Pisac is actually a much larger ruin site than Machu Picchu but its more spread out.

Ayul timed it just right - we got back to the car just as loads of tour buses arrived swarming with tourists. We had a peaceful and educational tour with him because he knew to come early and avoid the crowds.

We went on to lunch at a local restaurant and stuffed ourselves with a buffet of fresh vegetables and local fruits. The hostess described each dish and which region of Peru it was specific to. Great food and I loved that you could try a little of everything!

Moras was our next stop and Matt was in his element learning all about the archeological research and findings that the Peruvians had been conducting with outside help.

Our last and final stop was to Ollantaytambo where we stayed the night at El Sauce, a cute little boutique hotel with white down comforters. Ahhhh a good night's sleep!

January 19, 2010
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Train to Machu Picchu

El MaPi, Machu Picchu

We rose early again this morning and Ayul gave us a tour of the Ollantaytambo ruins before anyone else was around. I loved that he took us to the ruins during these times because later I saw groups that couldn't even hear their guides because of all the noise and people moving around.

We learned about how the Incas created their own refrigeration systems by storing grains and crops on the mountainsides where they received cool winds blowing from may directions and keeping the temperature down. It was very windy on the ruins and I wondered at how the little kids could keep from falling down as they grew up on the mountainside. Ayul said they learn as babies to have a great sense of balance.

Next we left some of our baggage at El Sauce in storage and continued with an overnight bag on the train to Machu Picchu. The Urubamba River was raging and we heard the next week that it actually took out some of the tracks of the train that had to be repaired.

We arrived early afternoon to Aguas Calientes and checked into El Mapi hotel, a very beautiful and trendy boutique hotel. We had lunch at the restaurant next door, great pizza and melon figurines cut out in the shape of fish and llamas.

Then we were off to Machu Picchu! It was a short 15-20 bus ride up the switchbacks to the entrance. Ayul made sure we received our MP stamp in our passports as we entered. We made our way then to our first sight of the ruins. Wow! Its hard to describe the feeling. We've all seen it a hundred times in photographs and videos but to actually be there it gives you a sense of awe. How did they create such and extensive civilization in the middle of the mountains and jungles.

We could have spent days at MP but Ayul gave us the 4 hour version of the history and archeological findings at Machu Picchu. We were thankful because by the end we were tired and there aren't any bathrooms in the site so you have to hike back down the mountain and come up again, about a 30 minute process all around.

Two things that surprised me about the ruins. 1) Llamas are keep by the park to manage the grass so they meander around as they please. 2) There are a lot of people everywhere! You don't see it in the photos and we even went at in the off season, but there are still so many people around. We were so lucky to have Ayul as our guide. He knew the park like the back of his hand and skillfully navigated us around all the groups so that we had time at each site by ourselves for the most part. How he did it I don't know!

All around, our experience at MP was a grand one. We felt like royalty with Ayul as our personal guide. We saw groups of 20-30 people walking around with their guides yelling for everyone to hear. Half the group wasn't paying attention and wandering off to take photos. Ayul also showed us the best vantage points to take some spectacular photos. We're so lucky!

January 20, 2010
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Wayna Picchu and back to Cusco

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

This morning Matt and the other gentleman in our group got up at 4am to hike Wayna Picchu with Ayul. There was only 200 passes allowed to get into the second stop inside Machu Picchu so they had to be there early in order to make it. My stomach was not feeling settled so I stayed in bed for a bit then walked around Aguas Calientes and saw some of the shops in the market.

When they came back, Matt said the hike was straight up and not for anyone with a fear of heights! The mist had been quite thick as they hiked up so they sat on top for about 30 minutes to an hour waiting for it to clear. It finally did and he said they got some amazing views of Machu Picchu below. Worth the hike up and down he said!

We had lunch together and went back on the train to Ollantaytambo where we picked up the rest of our baggage. Our private transfer took Ayul and the four of us back to Cusco where we settled in for another restful night at the Taypikala Hotel.

January 21, 2010
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Cusco City Tour

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco

This morning Ayul took us to the local market where we saw all the traditional foods and goods that Peruvians barter and buy. My favorite find was a tincture "para hacer el exito" to make the success! Drink this and you will be good :)

While we were walking through the market, Ayul nodded to a security guard who ended up following us around the market for safety. Pickpocketing can happen often in these close quarters unless you around always on the lookout. Ayul wanted us to be able to take pictures and focus on what he was saying so he had the guard there to make us at ease. At the end we all tipped him a couple bucks and thanked him for the escort.

After the market we went to Sacsayhuaman ruins up the hill above Cusco. Then onto the Cusco Cathedral and later the Temple of the Sun. Every stop was fascinating and we learned so much from Ayul's detailed explanations.

January 22, 2010
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Last morning in Cusco

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco

This morning we got up and realized it was almost time to head home. We gathered our bags and went down to the complimentary breakfast at the hotel's dining room. It as an extensive breakfast with eggs, meat, fruits, juices, pastries, and more. I have to say, I was never hungry on this trip!

We had said goodbye to Ayul the night before and he was off to see his family for a day off before the work week started again for him. I wondered what life would be like as a guide. He said that he loved his profession (he had a bachelor's and master's degree in it!) and could not wish for a better job, but I thought that it had to get hard not seeing your family for days at a time. Ayul seemed to make family where ever he went! He really made the trip for us!

Our driver and escort to the airport arrived. They helped us check in and we shared a private van to the airport with another couple who was just leaving Cusco to continue their adventure in the Amazon. We were jealous. Next year maybe?!

January 23, 2010
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Dinner and back to the states

Lima, Peru

We arrived into Lima in the afternoon and were met by our local office and Milagros the owner. She took us to a wonderful restaurant on the waterfront in the Miraflores. We sampled the ceviche and watched the sun set over the ocean.

After dinner, they took us back to the airport with just enough time to catch our redeye flight back the US. We were so blessed to have the opportunity to travel to Peru and I can't imagine a better host than Ayul and the rest of the crew. We'll have to return soon!

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