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Two weeks in Peru

By : John Keller
Trip Begins July 11, 2008
Trip Ends July 23, 2008

From the highs of Cusco to the depths of the jungle, this trip was one of the best of my entire life. The pictures tell a better story than I ever could.
See my photos : Two weeks in Peru

Want to go? Machu Picchu by Train, Amazon Explorer

I went to: Peru, Amazon, Lima, Machu Picchu Ruins, Machu Picchu, Sandoval Lake Lodge, Puerto Maldonado
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July 11, 2008
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Arrival in Lima

Lima, Peru

Tired, excited ... the usual.

The company did a great job of getting us squared away in our hotel in Miraflores. First order of business was to walk around town and find some food, and a pisco soure, of course. First thing of interest were the dozens of colorful little buses. There was also an abundance of colorfully dressed merchants selling every manner of souvenir - a great opportunity to practice bargaining!!

[A note about food: it ranged from good to amazing, especially (believe it or not) in the jungle lodges.]

July 12, 2008
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Touring the town

Cusco, Peru

Thank goodness for mate de coca and our tremendous guide, Vidal. I walked right past the oxygen station in the airport - I probably will take a few breaths on my next visit. The effects of altitude are curious, but the energy of anticipation and our our amazing guide are powerful!! Very attractive town square with many restaurants all competing for our attention. Numerous hilly sidestreets that need to be explored, too. I ate a guinea pig. Don't ask .... !!

July 13, 2008
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Pisac ruins and market

Sacred Valley, Peru

Hint: take the bus up to the very top and hike down, then hit the market for lunch and return bus home. A GREAT day. Bus ride to and from passes through twisty, hilly terrain with some breathtaking overlooks, and a steep, rocky stairway down!! One of the best things about this company is that the small group size allows a bit more flex and freedom of movement.

July 14, 2008
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Colorful

Sacred Valley, Peru

The colors of the clothing, sky, and landscapes are fascinating. The people are remarkably friendly, and each day is better than the last. Amazing. Great fun to meander through a bountiful and bustling outdoor market. Just watch out for passing donkeys and cattle, and you'll be fine! I ended up bumping my knee into the van trying to avoid a donkey, and had to hobble a bit for a day or two!

July 15, 2008
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Altitude and guinea pigs

Cusco, Peru

Altitude sickness turned out to be nothing more than one day of mild headache and some loss of appetite, but even with that, I couldn't resist roasted guinea pig, as I mentioned earlier. I'd call it "interesting", and leave it at that!! It does NOT taste like chicken. Worth a try, though, for sure, along with alpaca and other delicious regional foods, especially grains.

July 16, 2008
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Train to Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu Ruins, Peru

A free box lunch and glorious views of the glaciers and the white water on the trip to Aguas Calientes. Wow! Spent a day climbing and reclimbing the stairs, and finally found "the spot" to take that classic photo. The train ride is fun, and those classic tourist photos of Machu Picchu will never be the same again when you realize that you were in them at one time. A tiring but well-spent day. The views of the cloud-covered mountains are breath-taking.

July 17, 2008
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Machu Picchu

Machu Picchu, Peru

Feeling adventurous? Climb Putukusi mountain, but read about it first. One of the nearly-vertical ladders has 178 steps. It's a strenuous 2-hr hike to 1100m, from which point you look across (and down) on Machu Picchu, which is on the adjacent mountain top. It was one of those things I thought these 51-year old bones wouldn't be able to handle, but there is something magically motivating and challenging about this place -and incredibly rewarding, too. Insect repellent will help, as there seemed to be a couple of buggy zones on the trip up, but nothing too serious!

July 18, 2008
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Heath Lodge

Heath River Wildlife Center, Peru

We crossed into Bolivia after a long ride on the boat. Arriving at camp in the dark was amazing!! There's a small military outpost where you can get your passport stamped. Cool.

All the best-dressed turtles here wear orange butterflies on their noses (see pic). There are so many sights and sounds here it is hard to describe. At times the air right above the ground seemed to be alive with flying insects. With bug repellent, you won't get bitten, but without it, expect to be itchy for a while.

July 19, 2008
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Heath Lodge

Heath River Wildlife Center, Peru

Very hot, but lots of things to see ... and hear. Howler monkeys at night and spectacular macaws by day. Morning and afternoon hikes are great - but the night hike - OMG!!! Midday is perfect for a snooze in the hammocks with a view of the river. The food is absolutely incredible, too - a very pleasant and welcome surprise. This is an amazing place - no other way to describe it.

July 20, 2008
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Sandoval Lake

Sandoval Lake Lodge, Puerto Maldonado

Absolutely gorgeous setting and SPECTACULAR night hike for insect and frog lovers.

I think the squirrel monkeys are putting on a show just for us - they are everywhere! Most adorable creatures you will see.

Wild pecory herd by day. They crossed the path right in front of us in the jungle, complete with babies and a vigilant, snorting male keeping an eye out for trouble. We didn't offer him any!

July 21, 2008
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Sandoval Lake

Sandoval Lake Lodge, Puerto Maldonado

Today we saw more insects, birds, and the giant otters ... along with a wonderful sunset set to the sound of 100's of croaking frogs and the splashes of fish feeding on insects. The night canoe trip around the lake was magical. At one point the oarsman stopped, and we just sat still under a canopy of stars and the natural sounds all around us. Tremendous.

July 22, 2008
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Heading home

Lima, Peru

Back in Lima to rest and settle back into the return home. Still have enough energy to walk around the busy streets and sidewalk markets, though! Did I buy souvenirs? What do YOU think? :-) Hard to resist the bargaining and banter of the marketplace, I have to admit.

July 23, 2008
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Day tour

Lima, Peru

Plaza de Armas, the cathedral, walk to the ocean cliff, Parque Kennedy, pedestrian shopping area, and the catacombs made for a final day before heading back to NY. If you speak just a little Spanish and find a taxi driver who speaks just a little English, you will have the most enjoyable, fun conversation of the whole trip. The poeple couldn't be friendlier. Guards at the palace were imposing and impressive, but most will crack a smile if they catch you taking their pictures!

There were many other things on this trip that didn't make this travel journal (like the amazing walk along the narrow trails of the saltmines, and the jaw-dropping views that greeted us on the other side). The journal could of course be a LOT longer, but it will never be a substitute for traveling there yourself.

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