Description of the Hike for Pure Patagonia and Patagonia Panorama
The W circuit is one of the shorter circuits in Torres del Paine. The
magic of this circuit is that it includes many of the Park's highlights,
yet accommodates hikers of all abilities. Hikers who want to go all
day will find plenty of opportunities to do so. The joy of the W route
is that it also accommodates hikers who prefer a more relaxed pace.
There are plenty of options to cover moderate distances and enjoy the
spectacular scenery, and still reach the next campground!
The W circuit for the most part avoids the difficult and taxing routes
except for the last section to the Torres.
DAY 1: ECOCAMP - REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS
(Easy/Moderate difficulty, 4 hours, 12Km/8 miles, highest point 220m/722ft-
no elevation gain/loss)
This morning we leave the EcoCamp and set out towards the Refugio Los
Cuernos. From here the view of Lake Nordenskjold is amazing, and the
area is rich in native trees - Mires, Calafates and Motors. Then we
begin the more exciting part of today's hike, with many ravines and
river crossings (somewhat challenging after it rains!). This section
has many ascents and descents before finally leveling out. As we near
the refugio, we pass the entrance to Bader Valley (a paradise for climbers
and one of the more hidden corners in the park), and finally cross a
wooden footbridge over a little stream near the Refugio Los Cuernos,
where we settle in for the evening.
The Refugio sits at the base of Cuernos del Paine (2,600m/8528ft) in
a zone protected by the wind and close to a stream. The view is wonderful;
enjoy a relaxing evening with other hikers in this cozy spot nestled
below huge mountains and beside a wild lake.
DAY 2: FRENCH VALLEY (Overnight at Refugio Pehoe)
SECTION 1: REFUGIO LOS CUERNOS - ITALIAN CAMPSITE
Refugio Los Cuernos - Italian Campsite (Moderate difficulty - 2 hours
- 4KM/2.5 miles - Refugio is at 130m/426ft elevation gain of 90m/295
ft)
The first leg of today's journey begins by meandering along the beach
before ascending to the Italian Campsite at the base of the French Valley.
The trail enters a marshy area with stunted bushes indicative of strong
winds. Because of the high humidity, this section is generally quite
muddy.
You will ascend to the base of Cuernos del Paine, along the shore of
Lake Nordenskjold. The magnificent landscape surrounding you is characterized
by imposing mountains and vertical rock walls. Arriving at the Italian
Campsite with stunning views of Paine Grande and the French Glacier,
you can choose to continue up the valley to one of the most spectacular
spots in the park or you can head straight onto to our next overnight
spot - the Refugio Pehoe.
SECTION 2: FRENCH VALLEY (OPTIONAL)
Italian Campsite - French Valley (Moderate difficulty - 2 hours one
way - 9Km/5.5 miles Round trip - highest point 1100m/3608ft - elevation
gain of 800m/2624 ft)
The trail into the French Valley ascends gradually through rocky terrain.
After 25 minutes you reach a vantage point with terrific views of turquoise
blue Lake Nordenskjold, and you can also look back at the landscape
we've just passed through. The trail then narrows as we enter a deep
gorge with a strong torrent of water flowing through its base. The trail
continues to ascend through a very rocky area where it's possible to
view the immensity of the French glacier and Paine Grande on the left.
This is the steep section of the hike for the day - but it's worth it!
After just over an hour you reach a cascading waterfall and then enter
a dense Lenga forest.
An hour and a half from the Italian Campsite we reach an open, windy
place known as "The Viewpoint," which at 680m above sea level
has excellent views of the entire valley. To the east you can see Cuernos
del Paine, Mount Hoja (2,200m/7216ft), Mount Espada (2,500m/8,200 ft),
Miascara (2,300m/7544ft) and Mount Fortaleza (2,681m/8794ft). To the
south are Lakes Nordenskjold, Pehoe and Toro.
Entering the forest again we are sheltered from the winds and can hear
the crash of ice falling from Paine Grande. The trail is relatively
level here and follows the same course as the River Frances. Once the
trail leaves the forest it enters a marshy wetland area. Here you have
an excellent panoramic view of the granite Rock Mountains that surround
the French valley.
The Campsite Britanico is just over an hour away from the viewpoint,
and after another 15 minutes we reach La Piedra (The Stone), where we
can look out over the French Valley. At an elevation of 1,100m/3608ft
it's a one of the most imposing places in the whole of Torres del Paine.
We'll absorb the spectacular views of the surrounding peaks before turning
around and retracing our route.
SECTION 3: ITALIAN CAMPSITE - REFUGIO PEHOE
Italian Campsite to Refugio Pehoe (Easy hike - 2.5 hours - 6Km/4 miles
- highest point 230m/755 ft - elevation loss of 150 m/492 ft)
The final segment of today's trek takes us from the Italian Campsite
to the Refugio Pehoe. You begin by crossing the full flowing French
River via two suspension bridges and through a dense forest of Lenga
and Magellan Goigue. After about 45 minutes of hiking, you will reach
the shores of Lake Skottsberg, where you will follow the lake for nearly
40 minutes. During summer look for waterspouts on the lake surface,
caused by the wind lifting the water.
The last portion of today's hike takes us away from Lake Skottsberg
on a gentle descent towards Lake Pehoe. The trail crosses an area of
moorland with sparse vegetation; during the summer this gully experiences
strong winds, which keep the bushes at the base of the Barioloche Peak
low. Settle into your refugio for the evening on the shore of Lake Pehoe.
DAY 3: REFUGIO PEHOE - THE GREY GLACIER
(Moderate difficulty - 4 hours -9km/5.5 miles round trip - highest
point 225m/738ft- elevation loss of 175 m/574 ft)
After leaving Refugio Pehoe we soon enter into a classic U-shaped valley
where we pass Lenga trees along our gentle climb into the forest. After
about 50 minutes we come to a small lagoon. The trail follows the line
of the lagoon in this area known as "Windy Ravine," so be
prepared to feel a little blustery! In about 10 minutes the Cementerio
de Heilos (Ice Cemetery) of Lago Grey becomes visible to the south.
From our vantage point we can watch the icebergs being blown to the
southern shore of the lake. We continue along the trail, which by now
is fairly level, before a steeper climb up. Here you can see the ice
flowing into Lago Grey.
An hour and a half from camp we cross a stream - the climb here is
steep and we'll rely on the orange blazed trees and rocks to guide us.
Watch your footing in this area on the descent. The trail leads us into
a deep gorge, where we cross the River Olguin by a wooden bridge before
following the river.
After 4 hours of hiking we reach the Grey Refugio. Just before the
shelter is a trail signposted towards the Grey Glacier viewpoint. The
viewpoint is a 10-minute hike from the sign. From this rocky viewpoint
you can witness the Grey Glacier calving into the lake below. The weathered
terrain on the right hand side of the glacier is a testament to how
much the ice has receded in the last few years. From here you will board
the boat and before crossing the lake (1 hour) have ample time to marvel
at this calving glacier while sailing alongside. Disembark and drive
across the park spotting grequent guanaco herds beside the road. Overnight
at EcoCamp.
DAY 4 or 5: ECOCAMP - TORRES DEL PAINE
(Difficult, 4 hours one-way, 18 KM/11 miles, highest point 870m/2854ft
- elevation gain of 720m/2362 ft)
Choose how far you go today as we start up towards the towers (Los
Torres). This area often enjoys better weather than the Pehoe and Grey
sectors of the Park. The trail this morning starts off towards the Ascensio
River, which we cross on a suspension bridge.
The first part of the trail is quite taxing and climbs to 400m/1312ft,
crossing stony ground and zigzagging to the north end of the valley.
We'll take a break here and enjoy a rest in the shelter of some Notros
trees.
An hour into the hike the trail levels off as we enter the valley leading
to the Torres. Here we have excellent views of the valley and the snaking
trail we'll be following. After passing several waterfalls en route
we go by the Chilean hostel, and then descend and cross the River Ascensio
again by wooden bridge. The trail continues parallel to the river before
turning into the woods, where the shade will reenergize us before a
small ascent. This part of the trail is gently undulating, winding in
and out of the woods and crossing many streams of clear, fresh water.
The next stage towards the Torres is hard work - be prepared! We'll
ascend along a trail close to the glacial moraine, and after 15 minutes
of climbing the Torres will begin to appear. An hour past the moraine
we reach the base of Torres del Paine. From here we can see the glacial
lagoon and the 1000m/3280ft high granite rocks that soar up into the
sky. Rest and enjoy the immensity of the 3 Torres: The Torre Norte or
Torre Monzino (2,600m/8528ft), Torre Sur or Torre Agostini (2,850m/9348ft)
and Torre Central (2,800m/9184ft). Congratulations - YOU MADE IT!!!
Take some pictures for the folks at home before heading back down to
the Eco-Camp.