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The Most Beautiful Place on the Earth!

By : Kassandra Miller
Trip Begins November 7, 2011
Trip Ends November 21, 2011

Enjoy my Antarctica trip journal! I spent 13 days skiing, kayaking and hiking my way through Antarctica's mountains and waterways.
See my photos : Antarctica - Off the Beaten Path

I went to: Antarctica, Argentina, Buenos Aires, Ushuaia, Drake Passage, South Shetland Islands, Gerlache Strait, Half Moon Island, Antarctic Peninsula, Neko Harbor, Cuverville Island, Wilhelmina Bay Antarctica, Port Lockroy, Aitcho Island, Elevage Buenos Aires, Reino del Plata
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November 7, 2011
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On My Way to Buenos Aires

Reino del Plata, Buenos Aires

Today starts off with an early morning departure from Missoula, Montana. I bounce around from Missoula to Seattle to Los Angeles to Mexico City and finally arrive in Buenos Aires late at night. I can barely keep my eyes open as I grab a taxi to my hotel downtown. All I remember is my head hitting the pillow as I get ready for my next adventure: the last place on earth, Antarctica! I've been awaiting this trip with baited breath - a ski mountaineering adventure with penguins and whales. Who could ask for anything better?

November 8, 2011
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Off To Ushuaia and On To The One Ocean Navigator

Ushuaia, Argentina

This morning, it's an early flight to Ushuaia. It occurs to me as we land that the plane could very easily slide right off the runway and into the Beagle Channel, but the pilot negotiates the landing easily and I'm now at the end of the world. I take a quick taxi ride into town and drop my bags at the Albatross Hotel, where we will be congregating later. Then, it's off to have some lunch and explore Ushuaia. The town is framed by huge mountains and the feel reminds me a little of northern Italy. I discover the local microbrew at lunch, Beagle Ale, and am content to wander around the streets of town.

Later this afternoon, I rendezvous with the rest of the passengers of the One Ocean Navigator. We chat while the staff checks us in and we make our way from the hotel to the ship. On board, I find that I have a cabin all to myself and unpack my belongings. We have dinner on board and set sail down the Beagle Channel for Antarctica!

November 9, 2011
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Drake Passage

Drake Passage, Antarctica

Antarctica travelers often discuss crossing the Drake Passage. They categorize the crossing in one of two ways: Drake Lake or Drake Quake. Lucky me, I get the Drake Lake!

The water isn't quite as calm as a lake, but I certainly don't feel seasick at all. The day is full of meeting my fellow travelers, the crew of the One Ocean Navigator and learning all about Antarctica! I spend my free time reading Shackleton's journals and watching the birds as they fly over the bridge.

November 10, 2011
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Drake Passage

Drake Passage, Antarctica

Day Two of the Drake Passage and I still feel great, that is until I spill an entire french press of coffee on my leg. I'm not that smooth before my morning coffee in regular circumstances, but when you add in the movement of the ship, it's a recipe for disaster. I filled up the carafe with boiling water and let it sit for a few minutes to brew. Upon picking it back up to pour it into the cup, I drop the entire thing and it crashes to the floor, breaks and leaves my leg soaked in boiling coffee.

It takes all of a few seconds for my mind to register that I have boiled my leg. Thank goodness my cabin is next door to the doctor's clinic! The skin of my thigh is already blistered, but the doc applies medicine and covers it loosely with gauze. This will make skiing fun!

The rest of the day I spend telling this story to everyone on board and receiving looks and words of pity. I am brave in the face of a blistered leg, but this does put a damper on things a bit.

November 11, 2011
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Antarctica at Last!

Half Moon Island, Antarctica

I wake up to a winter wonderland. More than a foot of heavy powder has fallen on every surface of the ship. This bodes well for us skiers as we plan on making our first ascent tomorrow.

After a hearty breakfast of eggs, bacon, toast, fruit and anything else delicious that I can shove in my mouth, we learn that we will be making our first Antarctica landing today! The skiers meet in the lounge to discuss our first foray into the great white. We make sure we have all of our gear readied and wait with baited breath as the One Ocean Navigator pulls closer to shore. Then, we walk down the gang plank to where the zodiac awaits, full of our skis, poles and backpacks.

We zip across the open water and pull the zodiac up on the ice. Everyone unpacks the zodiac and lays their gear out, going through the familiar backcountry skier routine of getting ready. We skin up to the top of a small mountain, dig a snow pit and assess snow stability. Everything looks good to go, so we make a few turns and ski down to where we left the zodiac. A few chinstrap penguins are inspecting our belongings at the landing site, wondering what the harnesses and ropes are. We make another lap or two and then we have to leave the ice to return to the ship for dinner. Life goal #714: (ski in Antarctica) is complete!

November 12, 2011
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The Frozen Continent Shows Her Elegant Side

Gerlache Strait, Antarctica

The day began auspiciously, spirits high, previously wobbly legs now bolstered with sea legs. Breakfast was just that: the breaking of an almost 12 hour fast upon the sturdy One Ocean Navigator: eggs and toast, bacon and sausage: things that make sea legs stronger. Then a quick realization: today is the day we drop zodiacs and meet the land we have all traveled long and far to kneel upon, counts penguins upon, ski upon, kayak near, gesticulate upon, pray upon and…

A landing on the continent! After breakfast, we're off the ship and cruising through Mikkelsen Harbor. Gentoo and Macaroni Penguins are everywhere - thousands upon thousands. And most of them are interested in breeding. Gangs of Cape Petrels fly overhead while Weddell Seals keep their eyes on the penguins. Antarctic Terns perch on the ice and keep their distance. We are intruders, but we don't care right now. We go slow and respectfully and let the wildlife come to us.

After lunch, we take a zodiac cruise through Graham Passage where I take some of the most beautiful photographs of my life. Even with the cheapest camera amongst the group, the majesty of Antarctica shines through. One of the most exciting and awaited sights of the Antarctic Peninsula is the sight of the white souls of the ice, the Snow Petrel. We were extremely lucky to see them today while cruising the Graham Passage flying along the brash ice and against the glacier face.

The passengers tell stories of their experiences after dinner in the lounge, toasting to the luck of perfect weather.

November 13, 2011
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Keep your seat-belts buckled - we are still sailing SOUTH!

Wilhelmina Bay Antarctica, Antarctic Peninsula

Today's land excursions take us to Orne Harbor and Wilhelmina Bay. The skiers make landing in Orne Harbor, gear up and skin up a ridge line to the top of a small mountain. We can't believe it, but we watch as Gentoo Penguins waddle up the mountainside, making nests at the top of the ridge where the rock is exposed. They prefer to build their nests in these conditions, on more solid ground. We strip off our climbing skins and watch as each skier descends the mountain. When it's my turn, I drop in and make my way down. The snow is a bit heavy as the weather has been warm the past few days. Toward the end of my descent, I make a turn and hear a strange "pop" in my left knee. I immediately know something is wrong.

Our expert Kiwi ski guides, Paul Aubrey & Sean Brooks, are by my side in a flash. Knee injuries are not to be underestimated when it comes to skiing, so I hobble off to the zodiac with Paul and head back to the ship. The doctor on board suggests no more skiing for me and I know he's right. At the time, we decide it might be a meniscus tear, but I find out when I return home that I tore the ACL, requiring surgery in a few months. Warning to all Antarctica travelers: BUY GOOD TRIP INSURANCE AND DO NOT SKIMP! It may seem expensive at the time, but it's worth every single penny when something goes wrong.

November 14, 2011
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Picture Perfect Day

Cuverville Island, Antarctic Peninsula

This morning, my knee is the size of a baseball and I keep ice on it constantly. I'm able to walk, so I ask Boris, our Expedition Leader, if I can switch from skiing to kayaking. There is an extra kayak to spare, so I'm given the thumbs up.

This morning, we head out to Ronge Island, a high rugged piece of land 5 miles long, the largest island in the Errera Channel. This is probably the most spectacular of our excursions. The weather is perfect, sunny blue skies and warmish temperatures. As we kayak closer to the island, we see gentoo penguins popping out of the water to fly through the air for a few seconds before returning to their swimming. Pods of them travel like this together and at one point, a penguin flies right over the bow of my kayak on its way to land. When they arrive, they shoot straight out of the water and come to a skidding stop on land, preening themselves and waddling about. A large leopard seal keeps an eye on them from shore - lazing about and not looking at all like the predator he is.

On shore, we are greeted by thousands of curious gentoo, macaroni and adelies. They are arriving en masse now and hungry seals cruise the shoreline looking for their next meal. I leave my backpack on the ground to get a better shot of a penguin. When I turn back around to grab my pack, there's a little gentoo standing right next to it and starting, trying to discern what the bright yellow thing on the ground is. He pokes at it with his beak for a bit, but then gets bored when it doesn't poke back and waddles off.

The ship is cruising the Gerlache Strait this afternoon, which ends up turning into one of the best afternoons of the trip. We see a pod of Orcas that have a Weddell Seal cornered on a piece of ice in the straight. The Orcas crash into the ice, trying to get the seal to fall into the water. Over and over again, they hit the ice, but the seal stays firmly in place. We watch this spectacle as the ship cuts her engine for a good hour until the Orcas give up and go in pursuit of easier prey. I'm sure the seal was relieved!

November 15, 2011
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Neko Harbour and Paradise Bay

Neko Harbor, Antarctic Peninsula

Neko Harbour is full of the most beautiful icebergs on the planet, I discover as I paddle my kayak around them. We are not allowed to get too close, but it's amazing to see how deep the go down into the water. I think of them as floating relatively high, but they extend deep beneath the water's surface.

The weather is good again, so we have a BBQ lunch outside on the deck of the ship. This eventually turns into a dance party with peppermint schnapps and hot chocolate. The food and drink on this ship is beyond good. The head chef tells me that he will go through 1,400 eggs on our voyage.

In the afternoon, we have a continental Landing at Waterboat Point. We get the chance to see several penguins sitting on their eggs already - something that normally doesn't happen for another 3-4 weeks. The uncharacteristically warm weather has broken up the ice and allowed the penguins to breed earlier this season.

After dinner, I meet up with my skier friends and we chat about the day they had. I miss the skiing, but I'm happy to be able to participate in the regular excursions as well. A group of kayakers takes off for an overnight excursion - their shapes moving along the water in the last remains of the sunlight. It won't get dark until after midnight, so their paths will still be lit for hours.

November 16, 2011
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Port Lockroy and Damoy Point

Port Lockroy, Antarctic Peninsula

Port Lockroy is a natural harbour on the Antarctic Peninsula of the British Antarctic Territory. Originally discovered in 1903 by a French Antarctic expedition, the port was named 'Port LaCroix' after Edouard LaCroix who helped finance the expedition. Over the years Port Lockroy found use as an anchorage by whalers and in 1944 became 'British Base A', the first of the more than 20 eventual British bases established in Antarctica.

After the close of World War II it functioned as a civilian research outpost and was eventually shut down in 1962. It sat abandoned until a British team renovated the historical site and opened it as a monument and museum in 1996. This base is now restored as a historic site which has a gift shop and the only public post office on the Antarctic peninula.

Port Lockroy museum and post office is operated by the United Kingdom Antarctic Heritage Trust and proceeds from the small souvenir shop fund the upkeep of the site and other historic sites and monuments in Antarctica.

Port Lockroy is home to a penguin colony and the small souvenir shop offers excellent maps of Antarctica. And yes, I did mail a postcard to my boyfriend, who received it 2 months later!

November 17, 2011
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Robert Point and Aitcho Island

Aitcho Island, Antarctica

Today is our last in Antarctica, before we head north out of the South Shetland islands and back to the Drake Passage. The wind picks up rather quickly and our excursion to Aitcho Island becomes rather difficult. I hike the entire circumference of the island, sad to be leaving the seals, penguins and sea birds.

Boris tells me that the wind has pushed the ice into the bay and that we need to get out of there quick, otherwise the zodiacs won't be able to make it back to the ship. He wades through the ice to get the zodiacs through and the last group of us hop on. We speed through the compacting ice and make it back to the Navigator just in time.

I warm up in the bar with a glass of wine and enjoy the company of my fellow travelers. We know the Drake won't be a piece of cake this time as the winds get stronger and stronger through the night. I slap on my seasickness patch again and go to sleep with my fingers crossed.

November 18, 2011
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Seasick!

Drake Passage, Antarctica

There was programming today. I know there was. My trip notes say that there were presentations on Shackleton & the Endurance, the Whales & Seals of the Antarctic, Scott's Fatal Journey, and the structure of sea ice. There was also a movie shown.

However, I participated in none of this because I was in bed. I read, I received visitors in my room bearing water and crackers, and I slept. At one point, I wandered up to the bridge to see how bad the waves were. The captain smiled and shrugged, saying it was bad, but not the worst he had seen. I remember feeling vaguely proud that I stayed out of vomitville. I heard there were only 15 people at dinner.

November 19, 2011
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Last Day of the Drake

Ushuaia, Argentina

Today, I feel like a human. I attend breakfast, though I don't have much of an appetite. I watch a documentary film called Rounding the Horn, I spend time on the bridge watching seabirds, I finish another book and watch as Cape Horn goes by.

This evening, we enjoy a fabulous Captain's Dinner with bison and crab and enjoy our last evening meal on board. After dinner, everyone meets in the lounge to exchange contact information and recap the best moments from our voyage. I don't want this to end. At all. I consider quitting my job to become a research scientist in Antarctica. I consider this very strongly for a few moments before realizing that it wouldn't feel special if I lived here.

November 20, 2011
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Goodbye Ushuaia!

Elevage Buenos Aires, Buenos Aires

We disembark the ship after breakfast this morning with memories and photos that will be cherished. My wildlife highlights were seeing Light Mantled Sooty Albatross, Orca Whales, Arnoux Beaked Whales and Macaroni Penguins. The beaked whale was extremely rare. One of the biologists remarked that the species had probably never been photographed in the wild before.

My flight departs Ushuaia in the afternoon and before I know it, I'm back in Buenos Aires. I head over to the Adventure Life office in the city and meet up with a few friends. They take me downtown to a traditional grill and we pass a few hours chatting. Afterwards, I wander the streets of Buenos Aires, buying gifts for friend and exploring the city. I'm not one for large cities, so I return to the hotel rather early and turn in for the night.

November 21, 2011
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Hello Home!

Missoula, MT

I repeat the same process this time, except in reverse. Buenos Aires - Mexico City - Los Angeles - Seattle - Missoula. I arrive home at midnight and realize that I have to work tomorrow. I should have planned an extra day in between to decompress, but will have to rally for two weeks of missed calls and emails. Antarctica, where are you? I already miss the cold, tranquil, peace of the continent and can't wait to return again one day.

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