Patagonia. How does one describe an area that is indescribable? It's a land of stark contrasts--jagged snow-capped mountains peaks, pristine lakes, and massive glaciers of mesmerizing beauty, but also a landscape of barren emptiness inhabited only by the incessant Patagonian wind. We called it ''Elusive Patagonia.'' After reading our journal and viewing our photos, what would you call it?