Iceland and Greenland Kayak Expedition

The expedition sailboat departs from Ísafjörður at 7:00 p.m., weather permitting. Crossing the Denmark Strait takes about 32 hours. If weather or sea-ice conditions prevent the crossing, the departure is delayed and time is spent in the fjords of Hornstrandir Nature Reserve, with opportunities for hiking or kayaking.

Crossing the Denmark Strait. In the afternoon, the mountains of Greenland may come into view. Icebergs are common in this area and require careful attention. Dolphins and whales are sometimes seen near the bow.

Arrival in Greenland in the early morning. Attempt landfall at Søkongen Island on the south side of Nansen Fjord. The great Christian IV Glacier calves into Nansen Fjord which is often full of ice bergs. This is a prime area for polar bears, so a vigilant eye is kept. The Watkins Mountains and the highest peak in the Arctic—Gunnbjørnsfjeld (3693 m)—line the horizon. Depending on the ice conditions, an anchorage may be attempted here for the night.

Time is spent exploring Nansen Fjord before moving to Mikis Fjord to anchor. There is an option to hike into the flower-filled Sodalen Valley and perhaps search for gold and platinum in the creeks and rivers of the Skaergaard intrusion (the minerals were only discovered a few years ago by a geological expedition). Long-abandoned Inuit ruins exist in Mikis Fjord, alluding to a time when the Dorset culture populated the northeast coast.

The journey continues to the great Kangerlugssuaq Fjord (“big fjord”), with Byr anchoring in Suhaili Bugt.  This is a very sheltered anchorage where Sir Robin Knox-Johnston (first man to perform a single-handed non-stop circumnavigation of the globe) and Sir Chris Bonington (Britain’s best-known mountaineer and one of the most successful expedition leaders in history) anchored their vessel, the Suhaili, during their attempt to climb the Cathedral Peak in 1991. This is your base camp for the following few days.

In Kangerdlussuaq Fjord you have plenty of options for hikes, climbs, and kayak-tours. Paddle over to the abandoned Skaergaard Inuit settlement and explore the Uttendal Sound toward the ice-filled Watkins Fjord. Hiking in the hills of Kræmer Island offers wide views of the surrounding fjords, mountains, and glaciers. To the Ammassalik people, Kangerdlugssuaq has always been regarded as an especially rich hunting ground—a kind of Arctic Shangri-La that can only be reached in small skiffs. Modern-day attempts to colonize Kangerdlugssuaq date from 1966, when several families from Tasiilaq over-wintered in the remains of an abandoned American weather station and its expedition houses, constructed in the 1930s.
The families reported a very good hunting season: 35 polar bears, 62 narwhals and some 2100 seals! But, because of the daunting access to the area, colonization attempts were abandoned and Kangerdlugssuaq was left to revert once again to an exceptional wilderness.

The route continues to Sokongens Bugt by Kap D’Aussy.  At 16:37 in the afternoon of August 12th, the shadow of the moon reaches this exact spot. The aim is to anchor close to shore at the exact center of the total eclipse. Sheltered from the ocean, the calm landing beach provides an unobstructed view toward the western sky. Totality lasts for 2 minutes and 17 seconds. On the evening of August 12th, the passage south begins.

Heading south along the coast. This area is described in the British Admiralty Arctic Pilot: ‘The stretch of coast between Kap SM Jørgensen and Kap Deichmann, 90 miles NE, is considered one of the most difficult in Greenland; the mountains rise almost vertically from the sea to form a narrow bulwark, with rifts through which active glaciers discharge quantities of ice, while numerous off-lying islets and rocks make navigation hazardous’. A possible route is across to Kangertigtivatsiaq Fjord, described in hyperbole by Chapman of the British Arctic Air Route expedition of 1930–1931: “The scenery here was magnificent.” A short branch fjord to the N terminated in a huge glacier, while the longer main fjord was flanked by great needle-peaked mountains, between 1800 – 2000 m high. There are hanging glaciers precariously balanced on the steep hillsides and other glaciers coming right down to the sea. At the head of the fjord, away in the distance, was a superb pinnacled mountain, reminiscent of St. Paul s Cathedral; this was Ingolfsfjeld.’
The journey continues south into the remote and little-explored territory of Depot Sound. The route passes the Idrac Glacier, Fladøerne Island, and Smalsund, with an overnight anchorage in Sermiligaq. From there, the course heads further into Sermiligaq Fjord to enter Ikasaq Sound. A short stop may be made at the abandoned WW2 military base of Bluie East 2 before continuing on to Ammassalik Fjord, anchoring adjacent to Kulusuk village on the evening of August 14th.

Go ashore to visit the village of Kulusuk.  Here, your expedition concludes, and you depart to catch your flight back to Iceland or continue onwards on your own further explorations of Greenland.