El Viaje de Peru

Our plans, hopes and dreams were about to begin as the wheels touched down on a stary night in Lima, Peru. Oh, the Rocky Mountains in Colorado were hours behind us, our fitness training was over and our own llamas and border collie were in the safe hands of friends. The Peruvian symphony was about to begin. The Costa del Sol-Ramada was only steps from our baggage claim and introduced us to our first and complimentary Pisco Sour as they greeted us. All of the daydreams from 8th grade geography staring at small pictures of Machu Picchu, wondering about what the Incas were really like, and what kind of adventurer was Hiram Bingham were about to pass from virtual to actual reality as my head hit the pilow. We were a party of three:my wife Melissa, her sister Jill, and me. Adventuring on the brink of my 70th birthday, I felt wildly excited; perhaps just like Hiram.

Taypikala Hotel Cusco, Cusco We awakened early in order to enjoy the incredible breakfast buffet and head toward our 8:00am flight to Cusco. Double checking our hidden passport pouches, securing our money belts, and clutching our backpacks we walked back into the terminal in search of LAN Airways. I continued to say Cusco,Peru, to myself, of course to be sure I wasn't dreaming. Soon we were among the clouds and awesome Andes mountains. Everyone was pointing to snow capped mountains and the excitement was electric. In just over an hour we were on the ground again in the Cusco,Peru, airport. I had to say it again!! Just as Adventure Life (AL) had promised, our driver and guide scooped us up with our luggage and cheerfully escorted us to the hotel Taypikala. By the way the address is 600 Intikawarina; get use to practicing how to say words that are very different! Our chauffer was to become a trusted friend over the trip, as he carried us over roads at heights that were unbelievable! We checked in quickly to the clean and comfortable room which was to be home for two nights. No rest for the excited as Vidal, our knowledgeable and, as the girls said ''guapo'' guide arrived within the hour, and we were treated to a text book tour of the historic city of Cusco. So it began. We quickly became immersed in the culture, history, people, architecture, nature and beauty of Peru. The Plaza de Armas was only minutes from the hotel. It is a hub of history as the center of Cusco. Coricancha, the cathedrals, the fountain, and people dressed in regional clothing were a myriad display of color and customs. We found the best place to change money, most authentic vendors for alpaca fiber goods and had our first taste of Peruvian beer. Muy bien!!

The buffet breakfast of fresh and native fruits and bread as well as other traditional delights was a great preparation for our hiking day with Juan Barrios our guide for the remainder of the trip. We quickly became appreciative of our seasoned, well read, fun and very personable guide. Not only that, he conducted the symphony of our Viaje de Peru. We felt very lucky throughout our travels to have Juan with us. As we walked through the markets and cathedrals and also the ruins of Sacsayhuaman our goals for the trip began to unfold. Yes, we were hitchhiking in the galaxy, but we were also rubbing shoulders and talking to children and adults as we showed respect when haggling for coffee prices or baby alpaca scarves. Each of us was familiar with Spanish, the native language of many, and felt comfortable speaking. The Quechuan language is very different. While their language is unwritten, it is taught in the schools along with Spanish. There are many private Catholic schools and seeing school children in uniform is common. Juan wove the threads of history into a tapestry. His knowledge of the Inca civilization became a leitmotif in our travels during the next two weeks culminating in our visit to Machu Picchu. He had filled this day with knowledge, fun, and great hiking. We were happy to retire and anticipated our next day of adventure.

Our wonderful chauffer Aurelio and Juan gathered us up with our hiking gear and backpacks to launch the next portion of our adventure. We traveled along, stopping at a llama and vicuna farm that had incredible weavers and displays of native works of art. We were excited to be traveling in the Sacred Valley. Our first stop was at the ruins of Pisac. We were overwhelmed by the number and magnitude of Inca terraces, some of which are only steps from the vendor filled markets. As Juan explained there were so many mouths to feed, and the need for numerous growing areas was great. As with many ancient earthen structures, repairs were taking place. Men mixed the mud used for mortar on large plastic tarps by walking around in it. Everything is done by hand and foot. After our visit, we were off to another archeological site named Moray. Inca ingenuity and tremendous stone work created circular terraces in a geological sink to provide experimental food gardens for their people. Vertical stepping stones afforded travel between levels and the symmetrical construction seemed a marvel. It was a short hike to the area and let us feel the energy of the area. We let it soak in knowing the construction and work was done centuries ago with only stone implements. There are surrounding communities; we might call them towns, and they are made up of several generations sharing the jobs and chores of sustaining themselves. Barter is probably more common than currency in these communities. Everyone is a farmer and the corn and potatoes are planted, weeded, watered, and harvested by hand. Chickens, cows, sheep, llamas, and pigs are very important in every community. By these standards these people are wealthy and happy. The roads were bumpy and guard rails nonexistent, but we had come to trust Aurelio as we drove toward the incredible salt ponds of Maras. Imagine a gigantic intricate quilt with hundreds of cloth patches spread over two miles and descending down the mountain. That describes the hundreds of ponds of salt. Maras is a community owned salt quarry that provides much of Peru's salt needs as it has done since the Incas discovered it. The road is 1000 feet above the quary. A small stream that comes out of the mountain is directed by dams and gravity into ponds. Workers hand scrape these shallow ponds and bag the salt. It is amazing. We were pleasantly exhausted as we arrived at El Sauce in Ollantaytambo. I vaguely remember devouring a pizza and something cold before retiring. Juan again reminded us of our early departure with a 4000 vertical foot gain for our next day. Yes, we would be trekking.

Early morning Ollantaytumbo is quiet. Uniformed children are beginning to walk to school, vendors are setting up food tables, and travelers are beginning to orient themselves to their busses or the train to Machu Picchu. We gathered for breakfast, anticipating the staging of the trek with horses, llamas and porters. It would be an hour or so along the beautiful green Urubamba River to our turn off and then up road adjacent to the Rio Huarocondo. We knew we had arrived when Aurelio stopped and announced, ''Aqui!'' Several men stepped out of the shade leading horses. They whinnied and snorted letting everyone know that were not too happy dealing with the smell of llamas. Naturally the llamas could care less. We stood back as the men arranged and loaded pots and pans, a propane tank, food, tents, and our gear onto the animals. Augusto our chef would share some of the gear with Valentin in their packs. Marcelino set aside an incredible load to be hefted up the mountain. He and Pedro were the llama herders and had their jobs cut out making sure our duffels were secure on the animals. Antonio, our arriero, carefully checked his horses and the ropes holding the gear. Juan issued final orders to the men and gave us a nod to go; they would catch us soon enough. This would be us in the Andes. Peru! The music was filling my ears and there were little drops in my eyes. I think that is what happens as dreams are born. The tic of my trekking poles were the timpani, my nerves the violins, Melissa and Jill the woodwinds and brass. Hopefully our Colorado workouts above 13,000ft would pay off. Although Jill lived a sea level, her youthful strength was her mojo, so to speak! The valley unfolded around us as we ascended. Occasionally a local would pass us with a loaded horse and a few children came out for dulces. Water and a light wind were the only sounds under a sky billowing with cumulus clouds. It was a time to walk silently and absorb people making mud blocks for homes, hoeing corn or potatoes, or hanging wash on the line. Cows and horses occasionally added a melody, and always the chickens had something to say. Everything went slowly, and it was Peru. Several miles up we could hear the 300 foot waterfall well before we could see it. Plastic bags rattled at the end of sticks to act as scare crows to help the seedlings survive. Inca ruins were the ever present ghost windows in walls once standing straight. The leitmotif of the Inca was present with each of our steps. Late in the afternoon we passed a school and wondered how far each student had walked that morning. We learned later that truly some of the students had walked miles and maybe 2000 vertical feet for an education that day. We admired one student who kicked a soccer ball all the way uphill from school. We passed by a tambo which Juan described as a way station for traveling Incas. Many of the walls remained straight. Our destination at Perolniyoc was a welcomed sight as the men had set up our tents and good smells were coming from the chefs tent. Magically our guia Juan had arranged for libations chilled with mountain water. We sat down to enjoy our surrounding mountains, our day's efforts, and discover a sense of humility from being there. There were several communities around and above us. Needless to say there were horses, sheep, pigs, cows, llamas and need I say chickens? Several Quechan children wandered past, one woman had been collecting sticks for the evening cooking and another was bringing her sheep closer to home. Little did we know that in the morning an elder man would sit near our tent and play his harp for our enjoyment. He was working for a few soles.

''Good Morning,'' Marcelino said as he delivered our tent side coca leaf tea. It didn't take long for us to develop this new habit! Then it was only ten minutes later that he returned with a basin of hot water for each of us. Our faces were in awe!! At 14,000 feet this kind gesture spells luxury. We quickly learned Augusto would have been up at 5 am preparing everything to make our morning perfect. If you haven't smelled fresh bread at 14,000 in the morning, call Adventure Life!!! Oh, then to have it served. I did mention the coca leaf tea? The food on the entire trip was healthy and delicious. Maybe we had the quinoa with apples that morning or maybe it was scrambled eggs with bacon. I should have kept a journal! The ethereal mist and 20,000 foot surrounding peaks gave us a surrealistic feeling. We were still walking up the mountain and trekking to Apu Buena Negra Pass. This is the party we came to. The terrain was rolling and just as we realized the llamas and horses had caught up with us the top of the hill emerged. I stated singing ''If I were a rich man,'' and I knew that I was. Maybe Jill was the happiest that we had arrived, but Melissa and I were close behind. Juan was smiling at our joviality. This would be picture time big time! Before long a few stray clouds had begin to hover, and it was much to cold to rain. Since the men had passed us and lunch was close at hand they decided to set up two tents. Wise decisions are always appreciated and while Aurelio prepared a wonderful lunch we sat in the other tent while the quarter inch hail stones covered the ground. Fortunately the men had taken the gear off of the llamas. The llamas decided to return home a little early! The horses probably didn't even mind the extra weight. We laughed! The weather passed and we continued up to the pass at Apu Buena Negra. At the top, Juan pointed to the summit of Apu Buena Negra and Melissa, and I bolted to bag the peak. While it was a short jaunt from where we were, it looked like Everest from the other side! The trail descended at a steep pitch although the rain was an aid to our footing. Our trekking poles were a blessing. We were getting tired. A little way above camp Juan pointed to a crumbling wall in the distance. It was Intiwatana Temple. A shrine devoted to the incredibly beautiful snow covered Mt. Veronica. We had to go. New energy formed along with new wind and off we ventured to have the experience of standing there. It was glorious. What a classically beautiful mountain. We were standing in the Inca temple devoted to its beauty. Our campsite at the Cachiccata community area was surrounded by Inca ruins. We were coming full circle to Ollantaytombo and would arrive in the late morning. We passed discarded stones already partially shaped to be used at the town site. There were the skeletons hanging in a small cave that had been mummified and then robbed. There were structures like mausoleums that had been opened many years ago. It was all there: the presence of the Inca civilization. We decided the Cachiccata camp would be the perfect place to distribute propinas (tips) to our devoted porters, arriero, and llama herders as we would bid adieu when we crossed the Urubamba. We had shared a special time together and learned to appreciate their world. We even learned a little bit about their families. It was exciting to pass close to Antonio's farm and patted each of his horses by name. We were happy to have Juan and chef Augusto continue with us.

The second trek on Salkantay would take us to the pass just above 15,000 feet. It required a five hour car shuttle through beautiful mountain scenery then up through the lofty town of Mollepata at about 3000 meters. We would pass through the town and continue to the end of the road at Soray Pampa 12,700 ft. Juan thought if we could hike two hours before camping, we would have the pass to ourselves. I forgot to mention that on the Cachiccata Trek there were no other trekkers. It was amazing. As our new arrieros, Francisco and Jesus, loaded the horses, the overcast skies parted and delivered an incredible view of Mt. Salkantay. I took as many pictures as possible realizing that traveling during this later season, the rain could settle in at any time. We were sheltered as the rain really started to pour. About thirty minutes later we donned our ponchos and rain gear and started out for Salkentay Pampa, 12,700 ft. The rain subsided and our walk was beautiful. In no time we had our tents up and Augusto was fixing a wonderful dinner.

The Salkantay Pass loomed about 2500 vertical feet above us and was the topic of our conversation. There was no turning back as Aurelio had already departed, and our emergency horse was turned back at the top of the pass with his own problems. Since people don't have horse or llama trailers the handlers must walk to the trailhead coming from as much as two days away just to begin the trek. Or sometimes they live at the start of the trip and then walk back home after the trek is finished. We just don't think of those things here. With the efforts of Cachiccata behind us, we all fared well going up to the pass. Jill continued to tease Juan, asking for the reading on his altimeter watch. When we got to 15,200 we had a cheer. We knew we were going to make it. There were no other trekkers in sight, and we were alone on the mountain. It was going to happen. The crescendo of the symphony was in our ears as we heard an avalanche thunder down the cloud enshrouded mountain. Suddenly our boots got lighter and our pace increased. We could see a sign and a post ahead in the mist and all doubts disappeared. We had arrived! The pass was magical. The abrochecas, small rock structures that we call cairns, celebrated others who had passed this point. Melissa stacked one rock on top of the other until I took her photo. I added another for a picture and put the rock in my pocket as a souvenir. We three posed for a number of photos and didn't even notice the rain. It was glorious. We were aware of the remainder of our day:9 miles and 6000 vertical feet of descent. From the pass we would drop into a jungle of beautiful flowers and probably some other trekkers. We had had our moment alone and another dream bloomed. We were fascinated as the terrain changed before our eyes. Soon we were filming incredible flowers as we hiked along a stream that was dropping elevation as we were and making music all of the world could hear. Some of the trekkers we had seen the day before passed us with youthful buoyancy wearing gym shoes and blue jeans. To be honest, this distance and elevation was difficult. However Juan had arranged a wonderful camping spot at Colpapampa. Augusto prepared and served another fabulous dinner. The next morning we said our good byes to Francisco and Jesus.

Awakening in Ccolpapampa was a dream. The light breeze wisk the misty atmosphere in swirls, the rooster was announcing the day like the rabbit in Alice in Wonderland, our bodies remembered the trek of yesterday and our minds recalled the elation at the Salkantay Pass. Reality slowly focused on the 9 mile hike today although we were remembering it was only about 2500 foot descent. We would continue to enjoy the music of the river and the beautiful flowers. Augusto appeared at our tent with his cheerful tea song, and we engaged the activities of the day. Today would be different as Jesus and Francisco would be returning to their homes near Mollepata. We spoke with Francisco about his horse that he had to leave at the pass. He said he felt certain it would be easily found and well enough to travel home. Our gear would be carried by a local carrier to La Playa, and Augusto would set up camp there. Our task was to enjoy our walk along the river admiring the hovering snow covered peaks that loomed above. The road followed the river on the opposite side and was often well above it and never a distraction. After a wonderful breakfast and farewells to Jesus and Francisco, we rejoined our serpentine trail to cross a narrow bridge and continue along our path beside the river. Our new Golite packs had served us well and the water bladders a great system for rehydration. Our rain gear, fleece, hats and gloves were a light load to carry. Our boots were dry and soon the ticking of our poles was drowned out by the melody of water. While we were on the brink of the rainy season, bright flowers and ferns decorated our path. Shapes and sizes only a creative intellect could imagine became the objects of our photography. Naturally we had to show each other the latest find for mutual enjoyment. Small communities were sparsely populating the trail and several entrepreneurs offered drinks of juice and Inca Cola. Naturally they were the temperature of the day since ice was a luxury found only in restaurants. Children sometimes played around the concession areas hoping for some kind of a treat and were often rewarded. It was fun. They enjoyed the pleasure of passing company and a little attention. The beautiful flute music I had purchased at Amazon.com was still playing in my ears. My feet had been walking an Inca trail. The thread of life we walked along provided water to make food and mix a mud mortar to build homes. Once again the earth provided for her children. The Pachamama mythical yarn was spun into the lives and lore embracing the goodness from which a beneficial life is derived.

We awakened in La Playa also known as Sahuayaco or Sawayaco. Juan had arranged for a transport to carry us to the train station past Hidroelectrica and then into Aguas Calientes. It was a beautiful ride showcasing the incredible hydroelectric facilities along the way. Peru seems to be ahead of many places with regard to recycling and energy conservation. Our camp at La Playa was bittersweet. We had enjoyed watching Jill play hide-an-go-seek with the children, enjoyed a hot shower for only 5 soles each, delighted in Augusto's last meal, and successfully finished the trekking part of our trip. The sweet part was arriving in Aguas Calientes on the door steps of Machu Picchu with two days of exploration ahead. The destination is also known as Machu Picchu Town is accessible by foot or train only. The only vehicles are the buses that take visitors up to the ruins in twenty minutes saving a two hour walk. El Mapi Hotel provided clean and very nice accommodations, breakfast and dinner included and CNN coverage of the election results. The shopping there is very interesting. We got a great night's sleep as we wanted to be on one of the first buses up the hill

The food on our trip had been so healthy; we knew our senses would be ready for this day. Adventure Life had all of the tickets once again, and we were the early birds for the bus. We loaded easily with no waiting and began the twenty minute roller coaster ride up hill in a Mercedes bus holding about forty people. It seemed on the curves that the back of the bus was over the precipices as the front end darted ahead. Naturally passing another bus on the way down made everyone suck it in! Entrance must be accompanied by with a passport. Once through the gate our bodies sensed being on the brink of an incredible experience. We were walking up a gradual stone walkway and automatically El Condor Passes filled my spirit. It was a melody that had been playing for months and the volume just went up! Jill said that she might cry. Melissa led the way. The clouds were low and blowing, and a grayness and wispy whiteness on top of this mountain affirmed that we were in a sacred place. Strange that there were no people around us, and it was like we were alone. As we continued to slowly walk a short distance the angles of a stone roof line appeared with a window near the top. We were close. The path curved slightly, and within moments we were at a vantage point where the breadth and depth of the city lay before us. Huayna Picchu was prominent and on the far side of Machu Picchu. Our eyes were gulping, and we were at a loss for words. Being among the first there, we knew that only the spirits of the Incas inhabited the surroundings. The wind and clouds were making it a movie, and even the llamas were cushed. Only our eyes moved. Juan had mentioned that he had visited over three hundred times. We understood how that would be easy. Gradually as there were voices behind us we began to move forward along a path clearly marked as the direction to continue. As we were entering at about the middle, we recognized the Guard House above us, the Terraces, the living quarters and everything we had read about that could be seen from this vantage. Steepness entered into our feelings as did vastness. Our guia would take time to now explain existing controversies and theories about this sacred place. Before the morning was over he had made me understand more than all of the books I had read. It was wonderful. Hours later we would pass the gate to climb Huayna Picchu where Melissa, Jill and Juan would enter early the next morning. We were very happy to have the cloud cover and tentative weather as there were only a handful of other visitors there. We saw and absorbed everything that we could. The Condor Temple, the Temple of the Sun, the Three Doorways and Three Windows exhausted our expletives and superlatives. We were so happy we had prepared by reading and googling. The astronomy and geometry were only superseded by the unbelievable craftsmanship. Or is it the other way around? We decided to hike to the Inca Drawbridge, a marvelous defensive structure. The very thought of passing over the logs that spanned the mote defied imagination. Close to the same area was the trail to Intipunku, the Sun Gate. Perched up above the city in the eastern sky was an edifice with huge pillars through which the morning sun passed. When we arrived, the rain had blocked the entire view of the city, but as we climbed up and looked over our shoulder, our imaginations had been sparked. We had lost all sense of time and were mesmerized by our experience. To list each aspect and sight would be the subject of text books. We had been satiated, and it was a thirst well quenched. Tomorrow would be another day here.

Once again it was early to rise in order to catch a first bus. We had tickets to ascend Huayna Picchu and as the weather cooperated the mountain beckoned. Juan would lead Jill and Melissa to the top, and I decided to soak in the view from several spots I had chosen. Once we arrived we agreed on a rendezvous time and place, and the adventure was on. With their tickets in hand they were among the first. The climb has a limited number of visitors. The weather this day boasted bold blue sky with partially wispy and later dramatic cumulous clouds. It was perfect. They made their way up the steep steps, carefully across the very exposed terrace like walkways, and leaned into the wall when it got really scary. Both of the girls decided that it was worth the effort. I sat at the Guard house for an hour letting my imagination run wild and occasionally snapping a photo I wanted to use to remember the moment. My mind drifted to Inca values of respect for the earth and stars and sun. The Urubamba River glistened below and became a ribbon of light as the sun climbed higher in the sky. How far removed we have come. Anyway, I did drift back to reality and ventured to another vantage point walking through the great gate to the city and admiring the massive rocks and close fitting stones. I had to sit there a while and ponder. I knew my path would pass the Intihuatana, the hitching post of the sun, and the directional rock pointing out the Southern Cross. I had done my homework. The higher mountain travelers met me just in time to see a cria and momma llama moving to another grassy area nearby. The guard had scooped the baby up and mom was close behind. Many of the visitors enjoyed the petting part and the animals seemed to enjoy it. Juan returned and we three poked around rooms we hadn’t had a chance to visit. We actually revisited other spots and enjoyed being there. Our symphony was being played in the final measures.

The hike up Huyana Picchu and extra morning at the city was very special. We returned to Aguas Calientes after another hair raising bus ride. We were in the last seat of the bus. Yes, we squeezed cheek a few times over the 2000 foot cliff areas, but our bus driver knew the road. The Peru Rail Station bustles with languages and accents that amaze. That day was no exception, and we hauled our bags and backpacks like normal visitors today. We missed the luxury of helpers but most of all the wonderful smiles and personalities with whom we had shared our dream. Oh, we knew they were working and we had been playing but our bond was dignity and friendship. We had schlepped a bag or two and helped put up a tent in the wind. We did keep out of the kitchen! We had been the hitch hikers together and the musicians of the orchestra. Alone again in Cusco we felt like we were a part of something new. We had set goals and accomplished even more on un viaje de Peru. It was the people and the mountains who made the trip. Kudos to Adventure Life as for us they have raised the bar again. You can betcha we will trek next year with AL in Peru in the Cordillera Blanca.