Early morning, view the famed Cliffs of Moher from the decks of Sylvia Earle as you near the coastal city of Galway, where you anchor in its natural bay and tender ashore. Your onboard genealogist typically joins the voyage this evening. Over the coming days, she will present a series of engaging talks, sharing insider tips and expert guidance on researching Irish ancestry, navigating genealogical records, and discovering the many resources available to those interested in exploring their Irish heritage.
The seaside charm of 21st-century Galway belies a far more turbulent past, with the city evolving from an early medieval settlement into a place shaped by some of the most challenging chapters in Ireland’s history.
In the mid-17th century, with the rise of Oliver Cromwell, Britain’s rule over Ireland took a brutal turn. Across the east and south, Ireland’s landowners were stripped of their lands and driven west—along with their tenant farmers—across the River Shannon into what would become known as Connacht. They arrived having lost property, status, livelihoods, and any sense of certainty about their future, many coming to a city already under siege.
When Galway surrendered to Cromwell’s forces, the transformation was swift. Much of the city’s property was seized, and many of its established Catholic merchant families were dispossessed or exiled. Others from the wider region faced an even harsher fate, with thousands forcibly transported to the Caribbean as bonded laborers—a practice remembered as being “Barbadosed.”
Today County Galway invites you to hear more about the resilience of the Irish. Those joining the locally guided walking tour will hear the stories of the city’s past, traced in the streets, buildings, and spaces that still bear witness to its transformation, before enjoying an afternoon at leisure in Galway, while those travelling inland to the Workhouse or the National Famine Museum will encounter a more confronting reminder: the human cost of political power, and the stark realities faced by those with nowhere left to turn.
Personalize your exploration with the included ‘Your Choice’ experiences.
Option 1 - Morning experience: Getting to Know Galway
Trace Galway’s transformation from a fortified medieval outpost to a vibrant cultural center on this engaging 2-hour walk. Witness Eyre Square, once backed by the city’s defensive walls, where you uncover a town shaped as much by conflict as by trade. Shop Street and Lynch’s Castle who stand as a reminder of the powerful merchant families who governed Galway, and the stark justice they upheld, captured in the story of a mayor said to have executed his own son, while nearby, the hidden Hall of the Red Earl reveals a rougher early Galway, marked by rivalry and clan power. And of course, view the medieval wonders of St. Nicholas’ Church still in use today, where the past upheavals remain etched in stone. After your walk, choose to return to the ship, or linger in Galway where you may wish to experience another side of the city’s character, by trying a whisky tasting at one of the local bars or distilleries where centuries of craft and tradition are distilled into every glass, or simply follow the sound of music. In Galway, it often needs no stage or set time, step into the right pub, even in the afternoon, and you may find a ‘trad session’ already in full flow.
Option 2 – Full-day experience: The Workhouse
An hour or so inland, in the countryside of County Galway, encounter a stark testament to some of Ireland’s darkest years.
From the 17th through to the 19th centuries, Ireland was repeatedly wracked by poverty, displacement, and famine. For those who could not afford passage to the so-called “New World,” there was often only one option left: to enter an institution known simply as the workhouse. Across Ireland, a network of 163 workhouses was established in the 19th century under the Poor Law system. At their height during the Great Famine of the 1840s, these institutions held over 100,000 inmates at any one time, and across their decades of operation, hundreds of thousands—indeed millions—of people passed through their gates in desperation.
As the name suggests, life inside was harsh. Inmates were required to work long hours in exchange for the barest provision of food and shelter, often in overcrowded and unsanitary conditions. The system was deliberately severe, designed to deter all but the most destitute, with one of the cruellest aspects of the workhouse being the systematic separation of families who frequently never saw one another again.
Today, visit a museum housed within one of Ireland’s best-preserved workhouses, a place that allows you to step inside this history. Its rooms and corridors offer a powerful insight into the choices people faced, when entering the workhouse, harsh as it was, could mean the difference between life and death. The artefacts on display, simple possessions, fragments of daily life, are more than objects. In many cases, they are the only surviving traces of the individuals who lived and died here, a quiet reminder of the human stories behind a system built on survival at its most desperate.
Option 3 - Full day experience: In the footsteps of the Great Famine
Approximately 1.5 hours' drive inland from Galway, you can find a slice of Ireland's history which is ingrained into the nations psyche for good reason. Offering a moving insight into Ireland’s most devastating era, the aptly named National Famine Museum, presents one of the most striking and personal accounts of the time; the fate of the tenants of the Strokestown Estate.
In 1845, Major Denis Mahon inherited the estate just as potato blight took hold, destroying the crop on which his tenants depended. As poverty deepened and rents fell into arrears, he turned to ‘assisted emigration’ for those who literally couldn’t pay their rent. In 1847, nearly 1,500 tenants were removed from the land and sent to Canada on overcrowded vessels later known as ‘coffin ships,’ with around half dying enroute or shortly after arrival.
Later that same year, Mahon was assassinated, the first landlord killed during the Great Famine. Today, the estate preserves this history through its archives and museum dedicated to all those who perished during this time. A walking trail traces part of the tenants’ journey to Dublin, marked by pairs of bronze shoes commemorating the children who perished. Visit the estate and museum and walk a short section of this route in remembrance of those who had no choice but to leave and who never reached a new life on foreign shores.