Mandalao Elephant Conservation

By Monika Sundem, Adventure Life CEO

Laos: From the “Land of a Million Elephants” to Conservation

In a country once known as Lan Xang — the “Land of a Million Elephants” — fewer than a thousand remain.

When I visited Mandalao Elephant Conservation outside Luang Prabang this February, I expected to see elephants up close. What I did not expect was to hear a story that would reframe the entire debate around elephant tourism — and remind me how powerful travelers’ choices can be.

From Elephant Riding to Ethical Elephant Tourism

Keum Haungduangchan was just 14 years old when he began working as an elephant rider.

How Tourism Supports Elephant Conservation in Laos

Here is what struck me most — and what deserves to be said plainly:

Tourism is what makes this possible.

Fifty percent of Mandalao’s tourism revenue goes directly to elephant care. Feeding alone requires nearly 10 tons of food every three days. Elephants eat around 600 pounds daily, spending up to 20 hours foraging. Tourism here does not fund spectacle; it funds the preservation of these magnificent creatures.

Mandalao was the first operation in Laos to openly reject elephant riding. The center’s name reflects that intention: Manda (mother), Lao (Laos). Mother Laos. They desired to conserve and protect elephants from this brutal practice while educating travelers to bring greater awareness to the public. In the early years, that decision was risky. But as more visitors refused to pay for rides, Mandalao’s business grew.

Meanwhile, a nearby riding camp saw bookings decline. Tourists were choosing not to support rides, and they noted that maybe there is a better model. About three years ago, they discontinued the practice altogether and are now following in Mandalao’s Footsteps.

Business did not disappear. It shifted.

The message was clear: when travelers stop funding harmful practices, operators adapt.

In a country where only about 860 elephants remain — roughly 400 in the wild and 400 in captivity—down from around 3,000 in the 1990s—that shift matters.

Visiting an Ethical Elephant Sanctuary in Laos

At Mandalao, there are no hooks, no performances, and no staged bathing sessions for photos. Instead, the focus is on observing elephants respectfully in their natural environment.

Visitors walk beside the elephants through the forest while keeping a respectful distance. Along the way, you can offer them treats — something they rarely refuse — and watch their personalities emerge as they forage, interact, and move through the landscape.

During our walk through the forest, our guides used simple Lao commands — How (stop), Bai (go) to try and coerce them in the right direction. But they occasionally stopped, ate, took a turn. It was breathtaking.

There is something grounding about moving quietly through the forest alongside an animal that weighs several tons yet steps so gently.

Mandalao currently cares for 12 elephants, including two young ones rescued from being sold. During the pandemic, when tourism revenue evaporated, supporters helped fund their
purchase to prevent them from being trafficked. Many of the elephants who arrive here come with physical injuries or deep behavioral trauma.

At night, the elephants are not chained. Instead, they rest in large protected forest enclosures where they can move freely. These fenced areas were developed with support from World Animal Protection to provide a safe and spacious environment for the elephants.

Sustainability is also part of Mandalao’s approach. Elephant dung is composted and sold as fertilizer or used to create these amazing frames and other ‘grass-like’ covers to journals and other souvenirs you can buy. One kilo can produce 15–20 sheets of handmade paper. Food and tea served to visitors are sourced locally from nearby markets, supporting surrounding communities while reducing waste and keeping the operation simple and practical.

The Future of Elephant Conservation in Laos

Mandalao’s long-term goal extends beyond sanctuary. Their dream is to one day return elephants — especially younger ones — to protected wild spaces in Laos. This is a long-term vision that must happen in stages. For now, Mandalao is working with the Lao government and local communities on habitat protection and human–elephant mitigation solutions. By helping protect forest areas while also supporting local livelihoods, the hope is to create landscapes where both people and elephants can coexist. If those conditions are in place — and the right candidate elephants are identified — reintroduction could one day become possible.

Elephant reintroduction is complicated. Elephants have long childhoods and complex herd structures, learning essential behaviors from their families over many years. Because of this, Mandalao limits human interaction with the younger elephants to help preserve natural behaviors. Visitors cannot touch the babies; the goal is to avoid creating dependency on people.
Keum once watched an elephant endure pain because tourism demanded it. Now he walks beside her without a saddle, scooping dung, monitoring her health, helping her live out her life with dignity.

And here’s the truth: none of that would be possible without travelers choosing differently.

If you visit Laos, you will be offered elephant rides. They are still prevalent.

But you will also have a choice.

Walk beside them. Support the places that reinvest in their care. Understand that half of what you pay may go directly toward keeping them fed, protected, and unburdened.

Tourism built the riding industry.

Tourism can dismantle it.

Ready to experience Laos in a more meaningful way?

Contact us today to start planning your Laos journey and discover ethical elephant experiences that support conservation and local communities.