Secrets of Melanesia

Heritage hadn’t stopped at this island before so it was a true ‘expedition’ stop with only a vague idea of what to expect. As it turned out, we were immediately surprised by a makeshift local market that had been set up on our behalf. When the locals heard we were coming, they boated across from nearby islands bringing their carvings and other handmade goods. Though I hadn’t brought any money ashore, I walked thru the market and had warm conversations with the vendors, admiring their hard work.

Once our group gathered ashore, we set off for a hike to Skull Cave. Most of the walk was relatively flat and, though hot and humid, I was grateful not to see a single mosquito. We did see many skinks and butterflies along the way. We even saw two butterflies mating.

The last 100 yards or so of the hike was up a steep hill with loose rocks, but everyone eventually made it up. Skull Cave isn’t much of a cave, just an outcropping under a rock, but it is a fascinating display of a dozen or more skulls. Our local guide didn’t know how long they had been there, only that they had been there for his entire life (perhaps 40 years or more) and that perhaps they were from his grandparents generation. A sign at the sight states that the skulls were significant members of the community. After their death, they were buried upright with their heads above ground and a clay pot over top. Once they had decayed enough to separate the skull from the shoulders, the skulls were moved up to this place of prominence atop the hillside.

After our hike, I was grateful for a few minutes to have a quick snorkel at the beach. The area was surprisingly rich in fish despite only scattered coral outcroppings and I was able to watch a sting ray swimming.