Belize's Pook's Hill, Ambergris & Hamanasi

As we walked down the aisle of the Continental jet that just parked, we could feel it getting hotter and humid, and it really hit us when we walked down the stairs to the tarmac at the Belize International Airport. We left Missoula with temperatures in the 50's and snow still in the mountains, and we were really looking forward to this tropical weather. We met Mike from Pook's Hill who would be our guide for the next four days and become an integral part of our experience. We left Belize City immediately and headed west. We enjoyed our conversations with Mike who sensed our enthusiasm after finally getting off of an airplane after 18 hours of transit time, and he engaged us by telling us about his country. Carrie and I immediately felt at home in Belize as memories returned of our time in West Africa, whether it was the climate, the landscape, or the laid-back atmosphere that was apparent. We were looking forward to our two weeks. We got a quick bite to eat at a restaurant near the Belize Zoo, and it was our introduction to the local beer, Belikin, and Belizean food. After feeling satisfied, we proceeded to the Belize Zoo. This was one of the best zoos I have ever been to, and I was a kid who grew up on National Geographic videos and trips to the zoo. I never would have guessed that the Belize Zoo would be so impressive. What it lacked in infrastructure (you walked on dirt paths instead of sidewalks, and there were not gift shops at every corner), this zoo made up for it in providing a diversity of animals native to the region. Already, you could see the pride Belizeans have for their environment and country based on the interpretive material at the zoo and emphasis on conservation of the environment to protect Belize’s unique species. It was great to see these animals in their natural surroundings with out the concrete pits and fake motifs found in more modern zoos. I have to say that my favorite animal was the Harpy Eagle, one of the world’s largest raptors. This bird put on a good display for us, squawking and displaying the head plumage. Mike was great at showing us around the zoo, and his prowess in bird-watching was apparent as he was spotting so many species that have made their home in the zoo grounds. We continued to Pook's Hill that afternoon and enjoyed the drive. We met the staff at Pook's, and we settled in to this great place. Vicky, the owner, took us on a personal hike around the grounds, and we were overwhelmed by the beauty and wildness of this area. Pook's is a great area for birdwatching, and the lodge is located near Maya archaeological sites. The accommodations were very comfortable and well designed to fit with the environment, and the cabanas are constructed with a combination of modern building materials as well as woods and thatch from the forest. It was definitely not luxury but certainly comfortable with electricity for a fan and hot water (the hot water is generated by a unique sustainable system of burning palm seeds that have fallen around the grounds). The food was excellent as well with great cuisine combing Belizean and international flavors, and we enjoyed sharing meals with the other guests and the staff for a family atmosphere.

We set out with Mike to drive to the town of San Ignacio in western Belize near the Guatemalan border and situated on the Rio Macal. We joined up with our canoe guide and headed out in a canoe upriver from the town. At first I was a little surprised that we were starting this journey from a city park in the middle of the town, and I was a bit dubious on how tranquil this \"naturalist\" experience would be. But I hadn't realized how quickly we would paddle from the city, and within 5 minutes we couldn't see or hear anything from the town we had just left. The trip was on the river, but it is flat water with a bit of current. There were not any rapids or dangerous currents, and it is a great float that allows you to put down the paddle and enjoy the scenery. We were glad to bring the sunscreen though and some cold water as it was hot, but our attention was more on what we were seeing then on the heat. During this trip, we saw a number of bird species as well as iguanas. The iguanas were poised in trees, sunning themselves in the canopy. We would pass near these limestone cliffs that were home to hundreds of small bats that were clinging to the overhangs and resting during the day heat. A splash of the canoe paddle would send a hundred of them flying at a time. After paddling for about one hour and a half, we turned around and floated back downstream at a quicker pace with the current but also on the other side of the river to get a different perspective. By the end of the day, we saw so many birds. We returned to San Ignacio and had a nice lunch at a local restaurant where there were other tourists as well as residents enjoying their Sunday lunch. We continued west toward the border with Guatemala to visit Xunantunich, a large Maya site. This was our first introduction to the Maya culture, and it was spectacular. We walked around the area with Mike as he talked about the culture, myths, the Maya connection to nature, and the surrounding environment. It was fantastic for us that Mike himself is Maya, and his passion showed as he led us around this site. For whatever reason, we had the area almost to ourselves as it was mid-afternoon, and there was a great calmness as we explored and climbed the temples. In the evening, we returned to Pook's Hill after a busy day and had another good dinner and enjoyed the night sounds from the forest.

We woke up floating in our stilted cabana among the forest plants and animals. Many bird species sang during the early morning hours, sounding like a tropical symphony. The Keel-billed Toucan squawks repeatedly each morning as a beacon of the forest, reminding me of where I was. As I looked out into the sea of green, Blue-crowned Mot-Mots called deep within the forest and Social Flycatchers flitter about in the bushes at my feet. After breakfast, we hiked for 15 minutes out of the Pook's Hill area with a guide to a gravel road where we met our guide and other travelers to visit Actun Tunichil Muknal. We had heard so much about this cave from other travelers, including \"one of the coolest things we have ever done.\" That was a big claim, and I looked forward to seeing what the hype was about. We had a quick briefing with the guide, and he went over the expectations and gear. He passed out helmets and headlamps and checked that we all had lunch, water, closed-toed shoes, and socks. It was important to have closed-toed shoes that can get wet for safety reasons when in the cave to protect feet on the slick rocks, and the socks are required to wear in the upper chambers of the cave. After getting geared up and checked, we had a 40 minute hike that involved some stream crossings, and we arrived at the cave’s mouth where we had lunch and went over safety concerns and protocol. You enter the cave with a bang -- It starts off by having to get into a deep pool and swim about 15 feet. Life jackets are provided for travelers that would feel comfortable with extra flotation, but this is the only place where you are required to swim. With the remainder of the time, we waded in water and climbed around as we went about a half a mile in the cave in an hour's time. Safety was always stressed, and our guide went at a cautious pace. Once we got to the end of the cave, we climbed out of the water to a ledge where we took off our shoes and began to explore the area of the cave with many archaeological features and relics. The area was used for ceremonial purposes and sacrifices, and there were a number of clay pots dispersed around the area. Care had to be taken not to step on the pots, and there were the unfortunate signs of were travelers were clumsy and had broken the artifacts. I was intrigued by the skeletal remains that are supposedly human sacrifices that were left in this chamber. Who were these people? Did they know their fate? Did they kill themselves? These are questions that are impossible to answer but certainly keep archaeologists busy. We then returned from the upper chamber to the water and hiked back out of the cave. After having spent almost two hours in the cave, everyone seemed more comfortable, and we descended at a quicker pace (a lot of us needed to get to the bathroom). I did have some hesitation in going into this cave. I have spelunked often and feel comfortable being underground, and my reluctance was more in the spiritual and cultural aspect. Is it appropriate to enter this ceremonial area as a tourist? I have always felt weird queueing up and touring catacolmbs and cathedrals as a tourist, and I saw this as being the same thing. I was even offered the chance to visit a sacred forest and witness some rituals in West Africa when I was in the Peace Corps but declined out of respect for the tradition. After this excursion, I was okay with what I had done. The guides were respectful and encouraged respect and decency when in the chamber, and I appreciated that. I didn't feel that I was intruding, and I was impressed with this trip. It was physically demanding, something I enjoyed, and very educational. Was it the \"coolest thing I had ever done?\" I don’t think so. Was it great? Yes.

As the early sun rose, our bus to Tikal was already on the road. Mike, our guide and driver, meanders down the bumpy, dirt road from Pook's Hill and towards the border to Guatemala. Today we entered Guatemala and spent the day at Tikal National Park. As soon as we arrived to the border, Mike jumped out and lets us know we will walk across the border from here, meeting up with Roberto, a Guatemalan driver, on the other side. Going through customs was a cinch with Mike there to guide us. The whole process took 10 minutes and then we are in a different Central American country. Guatemala immediately felt different. Spanish-speaking, and more rural, this country is rich in culture, coffee and Maya traditions. Roberto is a friendly bilingual driver, willing to make plenty of conversation and planning a nice coffee stop along the way to the ruins. Now that we are in Guatemala, Mike played a role as an escort to make sure our journey goes well but our guides are Guatemalan for today. There was understood protocol and sign of respect among guides in Belize and Guatemala that each takes the lead in his or her own country. We drove another 40 minutes to the entrance of Tikal National Park, stopping along the way to sip shade-grown, organic coffee and peruse the shop for a hammock or piece of pottery to purchase. Roberto and Mike found a splendid guide to lead our trip around Tikal for the day. With the sound of the Montezuma Oropendula in the air and Spider monkeys crawling in the trees above us, off we go for a day of hiking through the Tikal ruins. The weather was great with it being hot but at least overcast, and the crowds were sparse on this day. There were areas where we didn’t encounter any other visitors. We had the chance to climb some of the temples and enjoy the views, not only of the immediate plazas below but of the countryside. Were those other tree-covered hills in the distance covered and hidden Maya sites? Possibly. I will never forget being on one of the largest temples and listening to the howler monkeys. The bass, volume, and duration of their howls was incredible. What a great progression in learning about the Maya! We started out with an impressive but smaller site in Xunantunich, had the chance to visit the cave and see the Maya belief and importance of the underworld, and then ended it with Tikal.

It was nice to have the morning to hang out and walk around the grounds of Pook's Hill and explore. We were able to spend time walking around the Maya sites found only yards away from the main lodge and also take a hike to the river. It is such a nice area for bird-watching, and Carrie became quite adept at recognizing the keel-billed toucans calls. After our final lunch, we said good-bye to Vicky and the other staff and drove to Belize City, a two hour drive. Our next stop was San Pedro on Ambergris Cayes, and to get there, we had a short flight on a Cessna Caravan, a 10-12 passenger prop plane that the Belizeans on our flight called the \"Scare-avan.\" But it was far from anxious, and I felt very safe and in good hands as we flew over the blue water en route to San Pedro. The landing strip is right in the middle of the town of San Pedro, and you can literally walk off of the plane and grab a taxi within 30 seconds. We stayed at the Xanadu Resort for the first two nights, and we enjoyed the beautiful and calm grounds. Xanadu has nice studio/efficiencies and a great pier that leads out into the blue water. We spent a lot of time hanging out on the pier, swimming and relaxing in the shade (the sun was really intense). In the evening we ventured into the city center and found a nice restaurant serving good Belizean seafood and cold Belikin beers. San Pedro is definitely a good destination for travelers who want to stay in an area with good seafood restaurants, and it is a good balance of quiet Caribbean charm and serenity and night life.

We had a nice relaxing morning, and Xanadu arranged an afternoon snorkeling trip with a local dive/snorkel operator to the Mexico Rocks, a site that is on the northern section of the caye. The boat came right to the Xanadu pier, picked us up as well as some other travelers participating in the excursion, and continued 25 minutes out to the reef. The seas were calm, but the sun was really hot. Sunblock is a must for this trip, and I recommend wearing a hat and shirt, at least for the boat ride. This was the first snorkeling trip that we did in Belize, and we had a great time. The area where we were snorkeling had very interesting coral reef habitat for tropical fish. The highlight for me was seeing a group of squids that swam in a perfectly synchronized line. As we approached, they seemed to move in unison, turning and changing speed, but never changing their formation. We snorkeled at the first site for about 30 minutes and then hopped back in the boat and traveled to another area to get back in the water for 45 minutes. Carrie was glad she brought a long sleeve, synthetic shirt that she could wear since she did get a little chilled being in the water so long. After snorkeling, we were dropped off at Xanadu, and we then headed out to enjoy another dinner at a small restaurant next to Xanadu that had good lobster.

We had the opportunity to change accommodations to visit the Tides Resort which is located on the north end of San Pedro. I liked the area where Tides was located, and this is a great locally-owned and operated (I have been told it is the only locally-owned hotel that is located on the beach). It is not as fancy as Xanadu, but it is clean, comfortable, and safe. The staff was very nice and welcoming, and they arranged an afternoon snorkeling trip to Hol Chan and Shark Alley, two of Belize’s premier sites. We had a great guide who was an older gentleman who grew up on the caye, and he had a great perspective having seen the development and changes over the year. Despite having done this same trip probably 1,000 times, his enthusiasm really showed, and he led us on a phenomenal excursion. Hol Chan is a protected marine reserve that is located where there is a break in the reef, allowing the cool water to flow behind the reef. There are many fish species that come to this area to feed, and we had a great time swimming around the reserve. We were fortunate to see a sea turtle. We had heard so much about Shark Alley, and it was weird putting on the gear and dropping into an area where we would expect to swim around sharks. The sharks were certainly there, but they are nurse sharks that seemed to keep their distance from us since we weren't using bait to attract them. The highlight for me was the rays, both stingrays and eagle rays. We followed a school of stingrays, watching their graceful movements as they skimmed the bottom. What a day!

We left San Pedro in the morning and flew back to Belize City on the small plane. Our plane landed at the international airport, and after dropping off a few passengers and parcels, the same plane flew about 5 minutes to the municipal airport. We had a 2 hour layover here, and watched a soccer game with the Tropic Air staff while we waited to fly to Dangriga. Carrie and I had our one and possibly only chance to experience the \"jet set\" since we were the only passengers for the flight to Dangriga and had a private plane for the 20 minute flight to Dangriga. We were met by a vehicle for Hamanasi and traveled 45 minutes with other travelers who had just arrived to Belize to Hopkins. Hopkins is a coastal city south of Dangriga and has a predominantly Garifuna population, descendants of escaped and shipwrecked slaves from Africa. Hopkins is definitely a place where I could spend more time. Hamanasi is a beautiful resort with an emphasis on diving/snorkeling and inland adventures. It offers a good combination of activity and relaxation, and they have mastered the art of hospitality and cuisine. We had some of the best meals during our trip here, and we really enjoyed our beachfront room.

The water along the coast was a bit murky since we were further from the reef compared to being on Ambergris, so I was a little skeptical of how good the snorkeling would be. How is this one of the premier dive spots in the world with a visibility of about 3 feet? We figured out why there were so many experienced divers choosing Hamanasi: You just head out from Hamanasi for about 30 minutes, and you are on the Belize barrier reef again. This was some of the clearest water I had ever seen. We passed an island that was full of boobies and frigate birds nesting, and we spent some time watching the birds come and go from the shaded trees on the island and observed some juvenile birds contemplating their first flights. The Hamanasi snorkeling guide was great, taking the time to tell us the names of the species of fish we were seeing along the reef. I enjoyed watching the confident barracudas calmly cruising among the snorkelers, and they look more menacing than they really are. Carrie had the \"spot\" of the day when she saw an octopus, but it was a fleeting sight as it quickly hid under some rocks. We returned to Hamanasi and had a great lunch. We relaxed that afternoon in the hammocks (and trying to get the salt water out of my sinuses).

We didn't have any excursions planned for this day, and we had a good chance to relax on the beach, swim in the pool, and enjoy our last full day in Belize. We took out a double sea kayak and paddled to a peninsula with a cluster of mangroves for about an hour. Since we spent most of the day at Hamanasi, I had the chance to watch the behind-the-scenes of the dive operation, and I was impressed. Staff members are preparing equipment and doing routine maintenance, and dive lessons are available for guests of Hamanasi as well as neighboring resorts and inns who send their guests to Hamanasi. The participants of the dive lessons did some pool work and then went out in the boats to the reef for their first open water dives. With more time, I would have loved to taken a lesson, so I guess I will have to return to Hamanasi. It will sure beat learning to dive in Montana! We were definitely going to miss Belize, and we had a fantastic experience. But we were excited to return home and see our two-year old. And next time, we will bring him with us. . .