Does El Calafate Automatically Mean a Visit to Perito Moreno?
For most folks, a stop in El Calafate is a logistical requirement for their Patagonia adventure. It is the airport most folks will travel through in order to access the Argentine side of Patagonia, and it is a perfectly-good access point for Torres del Paine, as well. A very strong contingent of these travelers who use El Calafate as a hub will also spend a day visiting the Perito Moreno Glacier in some manner – with a short boat ride, or a short hike… or with one of the various ice-trekking options that will get folks on top of the glacier itself with crampons. But are there other destinations nearby that are also worth a shot? I was determined to find out. My wife and I have walked on glaciers in New Zealand, and I even spent ten days sleeping and working on a glacier in the Transantarctic Mountains many moons ago. So I felt alright forsaking the Perito Moreno and seeing what else I could find.
We opted for a longer boat ride to the Upsala Glacier and Estancia Cristina. As we came closer to the Upsala itself, we were awestruck by the size of the icebergs that had broken off of the glacier, still a mile or more off in the distance. We were on a ship that held 80 passengers, and the icebergs towered over the boat, while also stretching longer from one end to the other than our ship. And the colors! The deep blues and crisp whites were astounding. One iceberg after another, the ship would slow down for the chance at photos, and we’d keep clicking away.
Upon arrival at the Estancia Cristina, we took a rough 4x4 ride to the top of the hill and a panoramic view of the Upsla Glacier – the first time I was able to really get a handle on just how large the Southern Ice Fields actually are, and how there are these giant tongues of ice - Perito, Upsala, Grey, Viedma, et al – trickling down out of the mountains into the surrounding lakes and countryside. We were also able to tour the old sheering sheds, and learn the history of the eccentric old family that had homesteaded this incredibly remote corner of Patagonia in the early 20th century. You will have to trust me that this historical tour was far more interesting than it would ever seem like it could be.
Estancia Cristina is actually available for overnight accommodation. Because of the 2.5-hour boat ride back to town, it is not a good option to use as a base from which to visit Perito Moreno or other nearby attractions. But it is certainly an interesting trip unto itself, with further options for horseback-riding, hiking, etc. A remote and beautiful respite from El Calafate’s “hustle-and-bustle” for a few nights.
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
2 days ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.