Antarctica, the Great White Continent, a land so distant from everyday life, so filled with myth, heroes, adventure, and tragedy that even today a journey to the mere edge of this continent is a expedition into the unknown. After ten years of working in the adventure travel industry and bringing thousands of friends, family and clients to the far edges of Latin America - to such sites as Bolivia's Salt Desert, Huarani tribal territory, Belize's subterranean caves, and more - the edges of Latin America weren't so sharp and unknown to me anymore. I decided it was time to journey to the edges of my known world once again, and Antarctica would provide that first edge.
So, I asked Jonathan Brunger, Adventure Life's resident Antarctica expert, "what is the most amazing Antarctica trip we offer? I want to do it." He answered without thinking - the Kapitan Khlebnikov's Snow Hill trip. The Khlebnikov is the last ice breaker still working in the tourism industry - the few others in the world are too busy exploring the arctic for oil and staking national claims for Russia, Canada, the USA and others. The Khlebnikov's glory days of taking visitors to Antarctica are numbered too with the recent announcement that 2012 will be its last voyage open to travelers.
Ice-breaker travel is completely different than visiting on an ice-strengthened ship. Someone recently described the difference between an ice-breaker and an ice-strengthened ship as the difference between a MAC truck and a pickup - completely different technology, in addition to the shear size and strength difference! Less than two weeks ago I heard a report that the ship was stuck, yes stuck, in the ice for 3 days! It's not a Shackleton story, but being aboard one of the world's strongest ships and being stuck in the ice is about as close as one can get in today's modern age. More on the Khlebnikov
My expedition to Antarctica is a 20 day voyage, including such landings as South Georgia, South Shetlands, Snow Hill Island, South Orkneys, and the Falklands. I'll witness many species of penguins, elephant seals, whales, albatrosses, fantastic glaciers and icebergs, and more. But what am I looking forward to most? We'll be crossing the Drake Passage, known for having the most severe weather on the planet. The ships description of this passage says, "...do not be disappointed if this crossing of the Drake Passage is smooth sailing." What!? When I read this, I thought, oh, they are speaking directly to me! If we don't get at least one storm with 60 foot waves, I probably will be disappointed. ...although, I imagine that there will be many passengers aboard that will be happy with smooth seas.
I'm also looking forward to the complete disconnect from my very connected and often busy world. With only satellite phone/email, I'll be limiting my connection to a maximum of one daily outbound email during that 20 days. I've told the Adventure Life office to not let the building burn down! Seriously, I'm so grateful to the incredible team at Adventure Life. Each one is super capable and the years of experience and talent they bring to their jobs is what is enabling me to take this trip. Thanks to you guys!
My next correspondence will be from Ushuaia, Argentina in 5 days, just before boarding the Khlebnikov. Please post any questions before then, and I'll try to respond accordingly. Saludos!
PS Check out Laurie Allread's journal and photo album from this same trip last year!
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
1 day ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.