From India to the 'End of the World'

Could one vacation transform your definition of a holiday? Could hiking through dense rain forest and ice trekking on a glacier more than replace the humdrum holiday experience of lying on beach beds and sipping mojitos? Or could the authenticity and thrill of living on a working sheep farm more than substitute for the luxurious trappings of a five star hotel? The answer to these, as my sister and I found out after our enchanting trip to Argentina, was a resounding YES! The sheer thought of traveling half way across the globe from our home in Mumbai, India to the exotic unknowns of South America gave my sister Nanita and me goose bumps. Looking back now, we would never have imagined that a single holiday could be such a ‘turning point’ in our outlook not only on vacations but life as a whole. We experienced adventures like we never did before; sampled cuisines which we had never heard about leave alone consume; and saw sights so spectacular that we were both awestruck and humbled by the natural beauty of our planet. So here’s a walk down memory lane, with each moment of my ‘Adventure Life’ experience still ingrained in me, every adventure being encountered still so fresh in my mind, almost as if re-living every experience as I write.

For us sisters, our ‘Adventure Life’ expedition started well before we embarked on the actual tour. It started off with receiving our packing list guideline and coming to terms with alien items such as “Parkas” and “Gore-Tex” fabrics and where to buy them. Plus we spent time getting into a workout regimen with the hope we increase our fitness levels before we leave. While we were mentally prepared to face the great out-doors and be adventurous (which is why we chose ‘Adventure Life’ tours in the first place), being city girls our idea of a trek was walking to the neighborhood supermarket! Buenos Aires here we come! Completely exhausted from two 15 hour flights, but raring to go, we walked out of the “Departures” terminal where an elderly man (our transfer guide) greeted us and escorted us to our hotel Casa Las Canitas in the hip and posh neighborhood of Las Canitas. We had decided to spend a day in the city prior to our tour, to break journey and explore the mesmerizing Buenos Aires on our own. After a quick check-in, we headed to Campo Bravo, a restaurant in ‘the barrio’ (Spanish for neighborhood) where we enjoyed some local cuisine. The young Latino hostess, who was bemused at encountering two ‘vegetarianos’ in beef country, took great efforts to help us make a selection. It was our first hour in the city and we could already get a glimpse of the congeniality of the local people. A sumptuous candle light dinner with a glass of ‘vino’ was a perfect end to a very tiring day.

Prancing through the Plush Palermo After a nice hot breakfast at the hotel, we made a pit stop at a nearby bank to get some Pesos. We had to make a brief mental calculation to comprehend its value in our local currency (Indian Rupees). All stocked-up, we ventured onward to roam the streets of Buenos Aires. The neighborhood of Palermo Woods was a short walk away. Armed with a map in hand with ‘hot spots’ marked out helpfully by our hotel staff, we began to stroll along the tree-lined streets of the barrio (neighborhood). We were most intrigued by the exotic species of Palms that adorned the streets. We visited the Japones Jardin which had immaculate landscaping, Japanese plants and delicate Azaleas. This was a place where we could experience nothing but serenity and inner peace. What a delightful start to a sunny morning! As we walked toward the Malba Museum, we watched the chic passer-bys with their equally chic dogs. We walked through some doggy parks and saw several dog walkers who seemed to be part of a trend prevalent in this barrio. We spent a good hour admiring the fascinating displays of some famous Argentinean artists and photographers in this modern art museum. A short taxi ride away we walked along the cobbled pathways of the Palermo Viejo area. This residential barrio exuded a very bohemian vibe. The funky and colorful facades of the small boutique stores and restaurants intrigued our fascination. We then “caffeinated” at Marks Deli (they do a delectable ‘caramel latte’ which is a “can’t miss!). A place very popular with the locals and the ex-pats, and with a ‘hip’ clientele, the area reminded us of our local Mumbai suburb, Bandra, which tends to attract youngsters and is now home to a large ex-pat community. It was a nice, lazy morning and we stumbled upon Plaza Serrano, a circle where locals exhibited their handicrafts and creations in tiny make-shift booths. There were innumerable bars and resto-bars around the plazas perimeter. With a smirk on both our faces, we gave each other a nod as we thought to ourselves, “that’s where we’re heading tonight!” “Post-card” Perfect We hailed a taxi and visited the much anticipated Caminito Street in the La Boca district – a historical area now conserved as a tourist attraction and also where the Tango originated. With a camera in hand I was “on a roll” - trying very hard to capture both the multi- color graffiti laden façades, boldly painted on lines of corrugated tin houses. The colorful ‘doorways’ particularly caught my attention, each of them being distinctively diverse and way more striking than any post card image. We felt as though we were walking on the sets of a vintage romantic Latin Classic. This was a city bursting with passion and a pulse. You could feel your feet tapping to the tunes of the Tango in the back drop, no matter where you were. We sauntered along the cafes where locals performed this dance with poise and grace. The traditional bevy of street artists kept us entertained throughout. From human statues painted in bronze, to the popular Maradona look alike. Women were dressed like prostitutes waiting to be photographed for a couple of pesos. And finally, Tango dancers who actually lift you off your feet and ‘dip you’ for a quick photograph. Such exhilaration could only be experienced in Buenos Aires! Not to mention the sight of an old Brazilian Lady dying to get her lips on a handsome lad which was hysterical! Mistaken to be of Brazilian descent, we felt charmed by the flirtatious calls of the ‘porteno’. You could feel the joie de vivre in the air as a live Brazilian band in colorful attire walked the streets. What were once the homes of immigrants has today been refurbished into art galleries. The day’s flea market was wrapping up and we just about managed to get a glimpse of some of the artistic displays of the locals. This was a city that provided a platform to nurture the creative talents of its people. It was truly an afternoon that had left us enchanted by the city. It was the taxi driver who drove us to Puerto Madero, whose consideration and niceness, left a mark on us. We were charmed by the people of this city - their amiability and warmth. On hearing my incessant coughs due to a lingering allergic congestion, the porteno handed me a brochure to a medicine that would make my cough go away ‘mañana’, (tomorrow). He pointed to a near by pharmacy and continued to converse in Spanish. With my ‘poquito’ (tiny) comprehension of the language, I tried to make sense of the conversation. All along, my heart was touched by the porteno’s thoughtful gesture. Puerto Madero, comprising revamped docks on the river, was an upcoming barrio. We admired the modernistic structure of the “Women’s Bridge” as we strolled and enjoyed our evening. My sister Nanita felt this reminiscent of the Canary Wharf neighborhood in London, where she had lived for a couple of years. This city had a very European charm to it but unlike most European cities, it was much easier on the wallet. We sauntered along the waterfront where there were the famous grill houses also called ‘parrillas’ known for their Argentinean beef. This upscale barrio housed two 19th century ships which are today floating museums. As fatigue set in, we headed back to Las Canitas. At Las Cholas, a gourmet hideaway, we enjoyed some vegetarian ‘empanadas’ with ‘chimichurri sauce - a local delight!

Echoes of the Falls Eager to visit the world’s second largest falls we got off to an early start. We were picked-up by our transfer guide and were headed to the domestic airport for our flight to the Iguazu Falls. Once there, we were warmly greeted by our Brazilian guide Celia who accompanied us for our tour of the falls. With child like enthusiasm we kicked-off our journey to the falls by hopping onto an endearing green gas train. We then “cho-chood” our way through stately bamboo trees and the dense rain forest foliage. We hopped off at the Devils Throat stop, which was a good one mile walk to the falls - across the width of the Iguazu River. Perspiring profusely, we then heard the thunderous call of the falls almost a half mile before we approached the actual mouth of the falls. As we reached the Devils Throat Point, we stood in complete awe, wonder-struck by God’s original masterpiece. This majestic mass of water comprising a staggering two hundred and seventy five rumbling falls, overpowered us with its sheer grandeur and force. I tried to capture every minute of our experience, every angle, and every corner of this grandeur. The sprays of the falls soaked us completely. Such a revitalizing feeling in the sweltering heat!! It was almost as if the falls had embraced us, welcoming us to view its radiance. Then I witnessed a sight that will be etched in my memory eternally - a flawlessly crafted rainbow. Not some photo-shopped image – but the real thing, with each of its colors radiating its brilliance. A truly spiritual experience! Speed boating through the Rainbows We then boarded the train to the lower circuit of the river. We walked down several trails where we enjoyed diverse views of the lower set of the falls. As we approached our speed boat, the crew handed out protective life jackets. Nanita and I, in our navy ponchos, expressed eager anticipation as the boat charged through the rapids towards the falls. It zipped past not one but multiple rainbows, leaving a thrill down my spine. Our boat made some very sharp turns leaving us completely soaked, but yelling ecstatically with adrenaline induced fervor. Trust the Argentineans to pull off such a thorough Adventure! The boat stopped, giving us several photo opportunities before we headed back into the rapids. We pulled out our cameras from the waterproof case, feeling so thankful to Adventure Life’s detailed packing list. Initially we had found the list to be too exhaustive but now we realized how each item served a purpose and had indeed come handy. Butterfly Magic As we tried to dry off, I captured a picture perfect moment of a butterfly resting on the railing with an iridescent rainbow in the backdrop - my favorite photo opportunity till date! Next, we were taken through dense jungle foliage of the Iguazu Rain Forest in a rugged 4x4 SUV. We were briefed on the local flora and fauna of the jungle (most names of which I couldn’t for the life of me remember now). We did spot some raccoons but were most bewildered by the magic of the many frolicking butterflies we encountered as they displayed their countless shades. Our guide Celia excitedly waved at us and we couldn’t wait to share our experiences with her. We soon headed to our hotel, the Iguazu Jungle Lodge that was tucked-away in a remote part of the jungle. Our room was surprisingly spacious, with a suite like feel to it and showcased a wooden interior which almost made you feel like you were in a Swiss chalet nestled in the Alps. We had our very own patio, where we unwound over a couple of vodkas and some sandwiches, whilst listening to the melodious sound of a gushing river near by. What a perfect way to end the day!

Rappelling Down the Falls “Military Style” We began our morning enjoying the sit-out breakfast in our patio. A platter of assorted fruits and freshly squeezed juices were sent to the room along with some local cheese and coffee. A late start to a lazy morning, we decided to briefly explore the small and quaint town of Iguazu. The taxi driver dropped us off at a nearby restaurant where we enjoyed an appetizing Italian Meal. We visited some local stores where we shopped for souvenirs. We shortly decided to head back to the hotel in order to prepare for the day’s excursion. We kicked-off this excursion in what appeared to be a 4x4 truck outfitted with many benches. We were taken for a bumpy fifteen minute ride to what felt like the middle of nowhere, but actually was the “base camp” of the adventure – a military area hidden away in the forest. We were soon lined-up, single file, for a hike up an unexpectedly steep terrain. I started-out in front of the line but soon slipped way back. I realized how out of shape I still was, as the loud sounds of my panting enveloped me. Through out the trek we could hear the humming sounds of hidden birds. We soon found ourselves at the precipice of a 20 meter gushing fall. Barely did we overcome our awe at the height of the falls that the guide informed us in a very matter of fact way that we would be rappelling down the falls. Dumbfounded, I tried really hard to get my wits together. The guide proceeded to attach a harness to my waist and hooked me onto a rope. All clasped-in, I began to rappel down, (to my amazement) taking perfectly construed steps. It was almost too easy, but just as I started to get the hang of it, I found myself flung into the gushing falls. Completely baffled, as to how I managed to lose control of myself, I struggled to get through the latter part. I soon felt my feet again and managed to gather my bearings, only to catch a glimpse of our Porteno who shot me a mischievous smile. I then realized it was all in good humor. I must admit though, that this incident did make the entire experience a whole lot more exciting. Next, I saw Nanita and the rest of our group stumble exactly the way I did, I didn’t feel quite so embarrassed since I was not the only guinea pig. Flying dragons Dripping wet but now fully charged up by our rappelling experience, we resumed our trek through the forest. But no sooner did we start; a blood curling scream escaped my lips when I heard the quick shuffle of the leaves and a tan colored animal approach me. The guide halted asking everyone to ‘hush hush’. This was my first jungle trek and I was not about to be hunted! Raw fear coursed through my veins. When we figured it was a forest deer, everyone broke out into a giggle but the thought of an animal two feet away from me, had my heart racing. I knew I had signed up for an adventure but its true definition was now unfolding. We walked along a short path to the zip line station. An elongated cable connected 4 trees. Our guide presented a careful yet somewhat comical demonstration of the various techniques we needed to grasp. We donned our neon helmets and cloth gloves and lined up in eager anticipation. With my first kick off ground, I found myself flying over the jungle canopy, feeling exhilarated and electrified. I could feel the rush and the momentum, almost feeling like one of the flying dragons from the movie Avatar. As hunger conquered and exhaustion kicked in, we hopped back onto the truck for our ride back to the hotel. On reaching, we unwound at the hotel Jacuzzi over a bottle of Argentinean wine. The warm laps of the water complemented the contemporary flavors of a good New World wine providing a fitting conclusion to an action packed and memorable day.

“Shopping, more Tango and Carlos Gardel” Celia, bid us farewell with a warm hug as she dropped us off to the airport for our flight back to Buenos Aires. Yet another example of the personalized hospitality and warm care we’d now come to associate with the Adventure Life team. At the Arrivals section, we were greeted by a portly Santa Claus of a transfer guide, adorned with a flowing white beard, who at once had us in high spirits with his jolly disposition and repertoire of anecdotes. After much banter, we were dropped off at the Reino Del Plata hotel, an Adventure Life Pick. The hotel staff was very efficient and provided us one of the quickest check-ins we had ever experienced. The room was nice, not as spacious as our Iguazu Hotel but none the less, very neat and comfortable. Subsequent to a quick unpack we decided to stroll along the most talked about pedestrian street in the area. As luck would have it, our hotel was joined at the hip to Calle Florida, which made its location ideal. Be it the money changer, pharmacy or snack shop, they were all a short walk away. As we started to stroll along the street, my first impression was “Wow!” This was a mile long pedestrian mall, giving a whole different meaning to high street. There was a sea of people strolling back and forth through one Narrow Street. It was almost unreal the way live bands, street artists and moving statues kept you amused throughout. I was particularly fascinated by the sight of a man actually working out on a treadmill, in the window display of a store. Hats-off to the Argentineans for their creative advertising. The streets were lined with early 20th century buildings, boutique stores, souvenir shops, restaurants and cafes. All the locals had displayed their handicrafts and some were particularly engrossed in creating their wares while others laid out their stalls. Nanita and I made the most of our bargaining skills, something that we inherited naturally through our Indian genes. We got ourselves leather Gaucho hats, in preparation for our trip to the Pampas that we had booked for the next day. The atmosphere resonated to the beats of the Tango as the dancers performed on every occasional block. Tourists stood there with pasted smiles almost as if saying aloud, “Buenos Aires, my heart shall always belong to you...” If there is any street in the world that could possibly keep anyone entertained for every second along the way, Calle Florida has to be it. As we walked by, we were amused by the sight of a young school girl who sat at the corner selling little hand made trinkets while simultaneously doing her home work. Almost as if the draw of the street was so intoxicating, that she wanted to be a part of it all, without leaving her daily responsibility. We eventually reached Galleria Pacifico, an upscale shopping mall. It felt rather odd and was definitely a first, that two ‘shopaholics’ like us did not have shopping on their minds. There was just too much to explore and there was never ‘too much time’ to spend in this bustling city! We walked around the galleria, mostly appreciating the exquisite dome ceiling with its beautiful fresco paintings. We then reached the Plaza San Martin, where we rested on a bench and enjoyed the serenity of the park. By late evening, we took a cab to Suipacha and Avenida Corrientes, which looked just like Broadway in Manhattan. A stream of tango bars, restaurants, tango shows and musicals lined the streets with the brilliance of the Las Vegas strip. We dined at La Bolsa, an Italian bistro where Tango dancers performed live, providing the “perfecto” ambience while relishing mouth- watering ‘Gnocchi.’ An elderly man sang to the tunes of legendary Carlos Gardel while we sipped on a large glass of red.

How did two ‘vegetarianos’ land up in a beef-eaters paradise? Today we booked ourselves for a day excursion to the Pampas. A “must do” on our list, we visited the San Antonio De Areco Estancia, a Gaucho Sanctuary and a working ranch. Our drive to the Ranch was through the panoramic grasslands with fenced farms, fields of maize, wheat and soy. We passed several Platanos, Sycamores and Jacaranda, the guide throughout explaining how several of these species had been imported world wide by the Spaniards for the city’s beautification. This explained our initial fascination with the trees of this city. We were briefed on the indigenous tribes and how they developed into skilled horsemen, hence the Gauchos. Approaching the Pampas, the 360° view of the horizon was most breathtaking. The Gauchos dressed in their ‘Bombachas de campo’- (baggy cotton trousers) and berets, eagerly welcomed us. Their hospitality was experienced with some fresh home cooked Empanadas and some chilled white wine. Before long, some of us were saddled on the horses while others toured the ranch. We got various views of the ranch, from grazing cattle to rodeo-style shooing by the Gauchos. I wasn’t sure if my horse had a bit of a heavy lunch , or it was me making excuses for being over weight but I tried everything form the thump of my feet to mimicking the gauchos with some mouth sounds, but to no effect – I still could not keep pace with them. The feast began when luncheon was served on long trestle tables. Hot steaks and other prime beef cuts, prepared in the traditional Asado style (barbequed) were served by the Gauchos themselves. From Chorizos, blood sausages and tenderloin- it was a true meat lovers dream! That obvious look on every ones face as if saying aloud “How did 2 vegetarianos land up in the largest meat eating country? What a waste!” It did come as a surprise to me that the population of Argentina eats more meat per capita than the inhabitants of any other country. Or 50kgs of beef were actually consumed on an average per person annually in this country. However, the gauchos were nice enough to make a quick preparation of some veggie Omelet’s and a delicious spread of fresh salads. Lunch was a good opportunity to mingle with several travelers. The most common discussion being, ‘our itinerary’. Each of us was inquisitive to know what we had missed out on. Nanita and I had extended conversations with an elderly Indian man, who turned out to be a famous geologist from Canada and being a globe- trotter, he gave us several recommendation for future travel. Cow boy hats and Gaucho style Entertainment We enjoyed some time honored traditions of Gaucho Folklore over some Vino. It was Baby Oliver, a Cuban baby’s drools and smiles that made my day. We were shortly invited to the neighborhood field to witness the display of the Gauchos fabled Equestrian skills. We experienced short racing, games like horse back musical chairs and several other stunts. Some of the women in the audience were given a kiss from the Gaucho along with a souvenir ‘silver ring’ that he plucked from a suspended string as he galloped past it. The sight of a horse and Gaucho, spooning each other made us feel like we were on the sets of Clint Eastwood’s “Horse Whisperer.” The years of bonding between the two and the innate trust in the Gaucho was so refreshing to witness and so contrary to the general distrust and suspicion one typically associated with urban life. We left the Estancia with at least 500 pictures and almost in a trance. Feeling beat after a long eventful day, Nanita and I retired at a café by our hotel. The two Mumbaiites in their cowboy hats had truly witnessed an authentic Gaucho experience.

Football, Demonstrations and NIKE!! Today marked the first day of the “Awesome Argentina” tour and resulted in a host of pleasant surprises. Our city tour of the charming Buenos Aires started in the historic district of the city. We soon stood before the famous balcony (of the Government House) where Evita Perón would address the public. Before us, were hundreds of people sporting jerseys and jumping like a swarm of grasshoppers out on a morning excursion. To our pleasant surprise we were witnesses to the live making of a Nike commercial. It was unquestionably ironic that we were spectators to a demonstration, in a city where congregations like these were almost like a national sport. We concluded that the fervor of this game could bring the city to a halt, quite similar to my country where only a cricket game could have the same impact. Astounded, we watched a couple of re-takes until we were fully able to fathom what we had been witness to. Time traveling into the 19th Century We were soon walking the streets of the renowned barrio of San Telmo, which to me was a trip back in time. It was its quaint streets and cobbled pathways, the 19th and 20th century architecture and cafes alongside which seemed to exist from the beginning of time: but most of all the ‘hand-me-down’ book fair at the famous Plaza Dorrego which was as illusory as it could get for being in the 20th century. The locals displayed a library of preserved books and calendars. We stumbled upon Coke advertisements preserved from its conception and its improvisation through time. People sat reading books and novels, relishing the quiet morning as they patiently awaited the visit of some foreign tourists. We then meandered along the streets with Andreas, our Irish guide who briefed us on the neighborhoods history. Nanita and I sipped some hot coffee while we passed several stylish antique stores. Before long we stood before what appeared to me as a secret passage into Argentina’s past. From “fashion gone bad” with hideous goggles, to pocket watches and money machines. From Polaroid cameras to records of the legendary Elvis and the Bee Gees, there were a plethora of goods to bring amusement to our faces. An Artist’s Hospitality Nanita and me requested a small detour to ‘Pasaje Lanín’ (in the barrio of Barracas), a mosaic lined street we had read about on the in-flight magazine. Andreas and the driver Carlos were gracious enough to accommodate this fancy of ours by making inquiries of its location. This was our last stop for the day and was nothing short of magic! What stood before us were four blocks of houses with facades of colorful tiles and mosaics by the famous artist Marino Santa Maria. A barrio that once housed the wealthy was today an industrial area, home to various immigrants and the working-class. The façades were each a piece of art. Was it sheer luck or destiny that the artist himself was looking out of his work studio? Captivated by the two Indian girls who couldn’t stop appreciating his work, he amiably invited us to tour his studio and personally displayed all of his artworks. From paintings of the Legendary Carlos Gardel, to hand paintings on jigsaw and ceramic tea sets. It was when he brought out some postcards which exhibited his artworks around the city and autographed them, Nanita and I fell short of words. Such generosity and humbleness can only be witnessed in a city like Buenos Aires! Andres, most astounded by our experience with artist Marino, kept exclaiming “This is magic! This is destiny!” I must say that any and every interaction we had with the people of this city, we were left with warmth in our hearts. Chimichurri Cravings!! It was late noon and we were famished. Andreas bid farewell as she dropped us off at our hotel. Nanita and I then took a cab to a local hideaway – El Sanjuanino. (On Callao and Posadas in the Recoleta district) If you’re missing your hole in the wall hideaway joint, I have to say this restaurant wins hands down when it comes to serving the best Empanadas in town. As cravings overpowered us and with only Chimichurri sauce on our minds, six plates of an assortment of vegetarian Empanadas were brought to our table. From corn and spinach to loads of queso (cheese), we had it all! The ambience was traditional with beer barrels, wooden window panes, hanging lanterns and a wine cellar- everything to trigger the idea that Argentina is everywhere you look around. Once our taste buds were completely satisfied, we indulged in some local desert - the exotic ‘Isla Flotante’ – floating island: a delightful combination of Spanish cream custard, caramel meringue and candied almonds. The contentment that you get after a generous meal in this city is topped only by the joy of the modest check. We then strolled along the streets, trying to work off all the carbs we consumed, till we approached the Recoleta Fair. This was the place to look for crafts, souvenirs, hand-made jewelry and gift items. There was an eclectic variety of every imaginable artifact. The most popularly sold item seemed to be the hollowed out gourd for the traditional tea, Yerba Mate. From the romantic sounds of the tango, to the sounds of haggling, the atmosphere was bustling with excitement. Local artists had displayed their works of art in fascinating colors. There were live bands playing and tarot readers engrossed in their readings. There was something for everyone. We didn’t have time for the Recoleta Cemetery and had to head back shortly in order to recharge our batteries before the night’s extravaganza began. A Mystical end to a Magical day This evening we were to visit a tango show- ‘The Esquina Carlos Gardel.’ For a city that resonated the voice of the legendary Carlos Gardel, this was a fabulous opportunity to really soak in the culture of this place. At a cul-de-sac on Corrientes Avenue, this Art Nouveau styled room recreated the refinement of the most lavish old time dining rooms. From meeting an artist, renowned for his paintings of the legend himself, to actually visiting the Carlos Gardel show on the very same day, something about today was definitely mystical. The evening started with a sumptuous three course meal and we sipped over some vino. The dancers performed the complex moves of the Tango so effortlessly. The costumes were flamboyant yet had a touch of elegance. The artistic ambience and the fabulous singing and dancing combined to make the evening an unforgettable cultural experience! We were home by midnight eagerly awaiting our early morning flight to Ushuaia.

Andean Panorama We were taken to the Eze Airport, the domestic Airport for our flight to the much awaited ‘Fin Del Mundo’ or the ‘End of the World’. Ushuaia, was a city which during its penitentiary past housed some of the region’s most dangerous criminals. Today, it stood before us as a city that allured tourists from round the globe, a lot of whom venture further south into the Antarctic waters. The city, huddled at the waters edge had the most surreal and tranquil skies. We were fetched by our guide, Augustus who took us to our guest house, the Hosteria Linares. We were warmly welcomed by the staff, though they spoke minimal words of English. We were escorted to our room that was relatively small. However, the guest house’s elevated location and its mesmerizing views from our bedroom window of the very talked about ‘reflections’ on the lake more than compensated for the size of the room. The guest house was conveniently located within walking distance to the main avenue which was a hub of cafes and restaurants. We quickly unpacked wanting to make the most of our free day in the town. Augustus had suggested we go up to the Martial Glacier and so we headed there all stocked up on our woolies and gloves. This would be our first opportunity to use our newly acquired winter gear. All bundled up, we boarded the chair- lift that took us to the base of the glacier. The entire ride was panoramic with hypnotic views of brooks, birch trees and the snow capped Andes. Once on top, there was a three hour hiking path to the glacier. But Nanita and I, not feeling too adventurous, decided to give that a miss. Instead we strolled around grasping the solitude of the place and savoring every echo of nature. On our way down the chair lift, we spotted an endearing tea house where we grabbed a quick bite. It was amazing to just picture how these valleys could transform themselves into the world’s southernmost ski-runs in the cold months of Winter. So Close And Yet So Far All energized for our evening adventure, we were soon at Austral Harbor, or rather the gateway to the ‘White Continent’- the Antarctic. This was the port from where all the catamarans and cruise liners departed. All we could see before us were innumerable globe trotters. The atmosphere was invigorating and the only thought running through my mind was that “we were so close and yet so far.” The Antarctic has been my dream destination but with a shortfall of leave from work, another ten days were impossible to squeeze in. We scurried through the spirited crowds till we found ‘Elizabeth’ our catamaran. As our cruise started, Nanita and I rushed for the ‘upper deck’ enjoying the icy winds of the Antarctic while others shivered away. Our three layers of clothing kept us comfortably cozy. Once again feeling thankful that we followed the packing guidelines to the tee. The marvelous 360° views of the horizon and the Chilean and Argentinean ranges adorning the town were simply overwhelming. The incredible sunset tinted the entire sky and we felt like we were transported to nothing short of heaven. Just the thought of having come such a long way to “The End of the World” brought a sense of satisfaction and thankfulness from within. Captivated by the Curious and Chubby Sea Lions We could soon hear a combination of sounds-several growling, grunting and trumpet like noises. A smile on our faces, we knew we had arrived at the Sea Lion Colony. The sight of several floppy mammals, all cuddled up on top of each other, gazing curiously at you with their big black eyes left us so captivated. Some gave out lazy yawns, while others were engaged in playful fights. The high-pitched squeals of the young ones and the awful stench we got, made this whole experience a one of a kind. We were most amused on finding out the male sea lion gathered harems during the mating season. “Wow!” We scurried past an island that housed what looked like a club of gentlemen all “suited up” in tuxedos having a tea party. They were the innumerable Rock Cormorants. Every minute aboard provided several fascinating photo opportunities for us, especially as we passed the ‘Les Eclaireurs.’- the light house that marked the End of the World. This was the first time our pictures didn’t do justice to the actual beauty of the place. We ended the day strolling along the main avenue that housed several souvenir stores. I found Ushuaia to be rather over priced. Everything sold in this city was marketed with the tag line being “End of the World.” The streets were swarming with tourists and youngsters from the town. That was sure to arouse our curiosity and we were later told that in the 90’s the government tried to encourage settlers in Ushuaia. They made a push for youngsters and offered elevated salaries for jobs. However people never stayed for over a span of ten years due to the extreme weather conditions.

Crazy Canoeing Our morning began after a quick breakfast when Augustus, our guide fetched us from the guest house and we were soon driving through the landscape of Ushuaia. Our journey involved navigating several winding, unfinished roads and husky breeding farms. We were excited to hear how these plains were used for the huskies cross-country racing during the months of winter. Even though we would have loved to experience this, Summer in Ushuaia was more than we could handle. Our van stopped at the Bay, where those of us who wished to canoe were given gum boots and waterproof pants. Nanita and I were excited about our first canoeing experience ever and happily joined the two other Spaniards for the adventure. The excitement soon turned into quite a struggle to get forward and keep up the rowing movement. Our arms felt sore while our backs hurt with our diagonal seating positioning. I must admit I did cheat a bit with my superficial rowing action while others struggled to move the canoe forward. Canoeing through the ocean waters wasn’t quite as easy as I had imagined but the whole way through we had a very entertaining time, halting briefly for some photographs. Hiking with Mother Nature Our 3 hour hike involved passing through the private lands of Gable Island. The trail involved passing through very picturesque landscapes - from the violet hues of the Lupin flower to the icy mint green lakes…From the Lenga trees, to the lush shrubbery.. From the ‘canary’ shores of the lake to lonely lagoons… This trail got even more fascinating when we passed the abandoned Beaver colony. The Government had introduced to the region a host of beavers but not their predators which led to the multiplication of beavers in the area from 25 couples to 40,000 beavers today. The massive ecological damage caused by the beavers really seemed to have infuriated the people of Ushuaia. I was particularly intrigued by ‘Lechin’ what the locals called ‘Old Mans Beard.’ It survived in the region as proof of the purity of the air. The vegetation was abound with trees with superficial roots, a lot of which had fallen due to the tempestuous winds and their inability to withstand them. These were left to decompose naturally so that the place remained lush. Patagonia’s Playful Penguins After an appetizing packed lunch of sandwiches and of course some vino, we boarded a speed boat to the penguin colony. The Halberton Farm had some unexpected visitors who made it their home - the Penguins. Most were Magellan penguins, typically the black and white kind; apart from a couple of Gentoos we saw who came all the way from the Antarctic. Their fur like collar and bright orange beaks made them stand out like some exotic breed. I must admit I was a bit disappointed as there weren’t quite as many penguins as I had expected, but none the less walking amidst them was extremely thrilling. The penguins playfully waddled around in and out of the icy blue waters feeling completely unthreatened by our proximity to them. They were quite occupied waterproofing their bodies with the oil from their tail. Wouldn’t it be great if we all had some similar way to keep ourselves warm! The icy winds made us feel like our fingers would fall off, even for those brief few seconds when we took off our gloves to capture some photographs. We saw a few baby penguins ashore that weren’t yet water-proofed to take a plunge into the ocean. We concluded our day watching the sky set ablaze and breaking into iridescent colors as the firework celebration took place at the port of Ushuaia. Ships from several South American countries were docked at the Austral Harbor for the celebration of 200 years of independence. All I could see were heads pouring in, to be a part of this excitement. Drum beats in the back drop, this was just sheer luck and we ended the day on a fabulous note.

There’s something for everyone! We are fetched by Frasco, our fluent “English speaking” tour guide. It was a relief to have your questions understood and answered in a country where the English speaking are a minority. We were driven to the Tiera Del Fuego National Park. (The term Fuego denotes the numerous fires that were lit by the native Yamanas to scare off impostors.) Hence the name ‘land of smoke.’ Paradoxically, this land today invites enthusiasts worldwide for all kinds of activities - from hiking, skiing, glacier trekking, fishing and wildlife hunting. Had it not been for the uncontainable desire of the European Explorers, (Megallan to be more precise) this land of the aboriginals would have remained undiscovered. All geared up in our newly acquired trekking gear, we were all set to go. Our first stop before the trek was the End of the World Post Office where we had our passports stamped with the penguin motif and ‘Fin Del Mundo’ almost like a validation for us that we had journeyed all the way here. Been there, done that, stamped our passports!! Even now this stamp arouses the curiosity and intrigue of every officer during the ‘Immigration’ procedure at airports across the world. A Trek or Marathon? Our 3 ½ hour trek through the Tierra del Fuego national park had soon commenced. It started off quite effortlessly through some very diverse landscapes - the deciduous and evergreen Lenga Forests, iridescently pebbled shores of the Bahia Lapatia, the swampy marshlands and the Majestic Andes as a back drop. The trail was naturally paved with a hardy, spongy grass that gave it a uniqueness of its own. The icy winds and the teasing rain had joined hands to provide a thrilling ambience for us. It started off as a fun and enjoyable trek, with Nanita and me enjoying the company of the boys from Madrid. We passed several panoramic spots and halted to take pictures. The winding trail soon ran through elevated terrain and Nanita and I had begun to sap on our energy. The marshy surface had begun to get slippery and my hiking pole could no longer save me. It was a comical moment as I lay flat, sunny side up, all muddy like a pig. I can’t imagine my predicament without the poles. Our attire was deceptive making us look like proficient trekkers. Only the seven others who accompanied us were mute testimony to our complete incompetence. They were trying very hard to control their giggles, while we were trying equally hard (albeit unsuccessfully) to match up to our professional look. The rest halted on several occasions till we caught up and then scurried off again, leaving the two of us with absolutely no breaks through the trek. Paradoxically our trek was soon transforming into a ‘marathon run’ for us while the rest appeared to taking a stroll in the park. My heart was racing and soon the focus of my trek had turned from the absolutely heavenly beauty around to my heavy panting that only echoed louder in the immense solitude. I must say that this trek was an eye opener on our very unfit condition. Nanita and I promised ourselves that we would be in better shape for our next trek. As we approached the perimeter of the bay, we took a pit stop for some coffee and brownies. A sigh of relief! The two European girls along with us were very encouraging. They reassured us that we weren’t doing so badly. The rain showed no mercy and we were “all poncho clad” and on the go again. A Pat on our Backs The shade of the trees provided great shelter and we scampered along trying very hard to keep pace. There was a sigh of relief when we saw our van await us in the distance. Like a first time marathon runner, approaching the finish line, our stride magically transformed into brisk, long steps in a relief and eagerness to reach the ‘End Point.’ Nanita and I gave ourselves pats on our backs and felt a great sense of achievement. We then drove to our camp site where Frasco and the driver prepared a barbequed lunch for us. Fortunately, the youngsters in the group were all English speaking and we shared our travel stories and experiences with each other in the make shift tents pitched all around. ‘Delicioso’ grilled tomato and melted cheese paninis awaited the vegetarians while the others relished some ham. Nanita and I spent a few silent moments to fully absorb the awe inspiring beauty of the trek. The mesmeric shades of nature and its sweet, stimulating voices were intoxicating to all our senses. Are we there yet? We soon were on our way to the river when Frasco asked us if we were up for our next adventure of the day - canoeing. Nanita and I, still soar from yesterday were rather apprehensive. Frasco convinced us that today’s canoeing would be a breeze in comparison, except for a five minute challenge. That sounded easy enough, so we got all geared up and began our adventure. We relished the tranquil beauty of the day, canoeing past an archipelago of islands with some Rock Cormorants and a beautifully crafted rainbow. Once again, in the middle of nothingness, with no sign of civilization around, except we four gals and our driver- cum- canoe expert Leo, our fate rested in the hands of nature. It felt ironic that we were canoeing in the natural habitat of the Yamanas, except with more sophisticated gear and a canoe - almost as if giving us a glimpse into their lives. Fate had an uncanny twist planned for us and soon the tranquility of the day transformed into howling winds. The timing was far from perfect as were approaching the so called “rough spot.” We were soon battling the currents, feeling almost as if we were in the midst of the rapids and hit by a storm. The five of us with steady teamwork paddled enthusiastically but the waves lashed at us with a vengeance and the canoe was soon flooded. I don’t remember a time I have been so panicked and terrified. We all tried to keep a brave front and maintain composure, but from within we were all like putty. We felt like hamsters on the proverbial wheel, moving our arms and legs like possessed souls, but still managing to miraculously stay on the same spot. Leo had been a true life saver! Had it not been for his strong, sturdy rowing, the current would have taken us four chicas back where we started. We requested a short halt by the shore as we began to enervate and could barely feel our arms. The currents however, showed no mercy and Leo finally had to take a call to pull over. We emptied the canoe and gazed at each other helplessly. All the way across the other side of the shore, Frasco waved at us, looking anxious himself. A good 300 meters to go, we decided to waste no more time and psyched ourselves saying “We can do it!” A half hour of determined paddling and we hade made it to the other side all in one piece! We docked minutes away from the road sign that marked the end point of the Pan American Highway, 17848 km from Alaska. Frasco apologized profusely and informed us that these weather conditions were out of the ordinary. Relieved that we had survived the challenge, we felt a deep sense of triumph from within. A Mate “high” Frasco then put his brewing skills to work and conjured up some traditional Yerba Mate (Herbal tea). We all passed it around relishing its unique flavor. It felt like a moment of expressing our bonding with each other and a shared achievement of the day. I have to say, an Argentinean holiday will be incomplete without savoring the local Mate, quite similar to India’s Chai except for the “caffeinated high” it provides at the end. The quaint practice of the locals carrying the heady concoction in gourds and regularly sipping on it with metal straws further added to our unique tea drinking experience. Nanita and I ended this day and every other day in Argentina with a “high” from some Yerba.

Our End to the ‘End of the World’ Experience With a half day of leisure available for ourselves, we visited the Museu De Presidio, once a top security prison which housed the most dangerous sort of criminals who had extended sentences. Here we found substantiation on the lifestyle of Yamanas and the numerous unsuccessful attempts made to explore this land. We grabbed a quick meal at La Estancia, a restaurant you must visit if you missed out on the Pampas adventure. This restaurant provides a feel of an Estancia with an open pit fire with the ‘Asado’ - barbequed lamb on skewers, a specialty of the area.. I’m sure Ushuaia offers a fragment of what one can witness in the Antarctic, especially after the several stories we heard from avid travelers we met along the way. Each of them are so mesmerized that they fall short of words. However we spent a few blissful days in the middle of nothingness and there’s nothing more that we could ask for. Whispering Acres We soon arrived at El Calafate. Our drive from the airport to our hotel traversed diverse terrain-from desert like mountains, beautiful serene lakes with floating flamingos to green pastures with picket fences. We drove past snow capped mountains and witnessed the sky break into myriad hues. Our Bolivian driver Quan Cardos, tried very hard to converse with us. Our pouquito Spanish was not of much use except for the few words which we were able to translate from our Spanish-English dictionary, which finally served a purpose. Cardos excitedly pointed out a woodpecker that greeted us as we entered our Hotel Estancia El Galpon Del Glacier, which to our surprise was a working sheep ranch. We checked into our warm and cozy room with dark-wooded flooring and were more than excited that our hotel was not in the main town area. This Adventure Life pick was an oasis of tranquility huddled in the lap of Lake Argentino. We were just in time for hi-tea and delicioso pastries, brownies, hot chocolate and an assortment of sweets. Tourists who had come for the folklore and dance show joined us and we were all escorted to the farm. The vegetation was replete with several sand hills, shrubs and the famous Calafate plant. Catch me if you can… We then witnessed our first activity of the day We all stood waiting with keenness as the beret clad Spaniard escorted his herd of a few dozen sheep. We were spectators to the Gaucho orchestrating the dog-sheep chase, almost like a master conducting a grand symphony. The docile, playful sheep trotted along playfully, as the Kelpie dogs chased them. The scene was dramatic of dedicated dogs playing Guard almost like Policemen chasing the outlaws. The hounded sheep with their voluminous bottoms fell into puddles while some slammed right into the fence. All bunched together, they ran with their heads nudging the back-side of the ones in front. Quite a hilarious, yet adorable sight!! Soon we were all taken to an old clipping shed where we watched the actual sheering of the sheep. It was the years of trust in the Gauchos that ensured the sheep remained calm and composed while having their fleece sheared away, knowing fully well that this was an annual ritual. One entire piece lay stretched out weighing 7 kilos. (The wool is sold at $2.50 per kg and its oil is used by cosmetic companies). This experience was so fascinating and remains to be the highlight of my entire trip. Completely mesmerized by their innocence and naivety, I gazed at them for minutes at length. Soon we saw a bunch of ravenous sheep speedily charge as their grains were poured out. It was feeding time and one Ram amongst them had a voracious appetite and definitely stood out. While the rest were sent back with a pat on their buttocks, the Ram sneaked past the gaucho to get his last mouthful leaving us thoroughly amused. What an adorable sight! Some Argentinean folklore awaited us with a three course meal and mouth watering caramel flan. A truly delectable end to a perfect day!

Illusion or Reality? We rose early getting a picture perfect view of grazing horses and sheep outside our bedroom window, a rare sight for a city girl who is not so fortunate. If one is to truly enjoy El Calafate, I highly recommend El Galpon snuggled in the lap of nature. A close ride away from El Galpon, we were on our way to the Los Glaciares National Park. We were taken to the shore of a waterway where we embarked on a catamaran which took us to the glacier. The water was a perfect reflection of the sky, and chunks of ice floated on its surface. As we were approached the glacier this colossal masterpiece stood before us in all its grandeur, flaunting its iridescent shades of blue. We were finally able to comprehend the majesty of the very “talked about” Argentinean Jewel ‘The Perito Merino Glacier’. It’s overpowering height of 200 meters - the size of a 15-story building was almost surpassed by the equally impressive length which stretched back three miles. Music on Ice Unexpectedly, we heard a loud thud. All heads turned in amazement as we witnessed the fracture of the glacier – a sight that was visually spectacular. As we got off the jetty, we hiked along a pathway leading to the tents where the crampons were provided to us. Our trekking boots all strapped into them, we were ready to go. The metal contraptions provided a sturdy grip on the glacial surface, which did get quite slippery at times. We opted for the ‘mini- trek’ experience while the more enthusiastic ones had dared to venture the five hour trek on ‘Big Ice.’ We started our trek making giant like steps, each making a thud. Nanita started her trek crawling on all fours. The guide thoroughly amused, tongue in check, explained the desired technique. I, on the other hand felt quite confident and for once in my life being overweight had an added advantage. My steps were weighty and strong giving the crampons a sturdy grip on the ice. Our 1 ½ hour trek passed through various crevices in the ice, beautiful blue lagoons and some tunnel like formations which we tried very hard to walk through, however unsuccessfully. I couldn’t pass up the opportunity to fill my Nalgene with some fresh, icy water from this pristine bounty of Nature. Scotch on the rocks It was an exceptionally windy day - definitely not the ideal weather condition to be standing on a steep precipice. Nanita was encompassed by fear and her sluggish turtle like steps held up the line. I found the downhill slopes particularly scary. A few halts along the way and after a couple of snap shots, we were off again. I must confess, the pictures we captured cannot even remotely do justice to the true magnificence of this glacier. Before long, we could see two wooden tables with glasses all laid out. Was this my imagination or had the Argentineans managed to optimize their creative talents and round off the adventure with a bang? Our guide chiseled the ice and filled our glasses with some fine Argentinean Scotch. The non Scotch lovers relished some authentic glacial ice with a purity and freshness you can’t compare to your most expensive bottle of ‘still water.’ We were soon at a log cabin where we enjoyed our packed lunch prepared by our generous hotel staff. Our Inner Gaucho runs Wild Our next destination was uphill to a point where we could walk along several balconies, giving us varied views of the glacier. We were on our third memory chip and were reaching a record mark of 2000 pictures in one trip, evidence of a trip like none other before. The Perito Merino Glacier had perfection, almost as if the wind had chiseled its beautifully sculptured formations. Our experience of this Patagonian beauty was once in a lifetime! Once you witness its opulence, you will be transformed. After our tiresome days adventure, we grabbed a quick nap at the hotel. We spent the rest of our day letting our inner gaucho ride wild as we enjoyed the horse-back ride arranged for us. All saddled up, Nanita and I were trotting along some farmlands with grazing sheep and horses. Joined by an American chica who was more than glad to have found English speaking company, we enjoyed our ride along the graveled shores of Lake Argentino, relishing the sunny and tranquil evening. This is definitely the perfect way to fully appreciate the idyllic location of the Estancia. We had the two Kelpie dogs of the Estancia follow us the whole way. The horses had a persona of their own. While my horse was rather competitive in nature, Nanita’s horse took every opportunity to feed his tummy and graze on the lush vegetation. We galloped our way back along the breathtaking shore of the Lake. It was a thrilling ride unlike anything I’ve experienced.

Our plan to “not sleep” in a City that never Sleeps The next afternoon we had our flight back to Buenos Aires. Our hearts pained at the thought of leaving El Calafate. Our surreal experience there had left us with warmth in our hearts- for the place which is so untouched and mostly its people. The hotel staff was most wonderful and really made us feel at home. Back in Buenos Aires, quite tired but still trying hard to make the most of each day in the city, we headed out for dinner to La Fabrique Del Taco. (Gorriti 5062, Palermo Soho) This authentic Mexican restaurant was all about neon lighting and colorful walls of masks and sombreros. The Tacos and ‘veggie burger’ were mouth watering and my absolute favorite - Guacamole was to die for! We of course we had to order chimichurri sauce on the side- our newly acquired delight! I’m no food connoisseur but I have to say, if you’re a Tacobel or Chipotle fan, here’s definitely a place to check out. We then headed to Acabar (Honduras), one of the most innovatively decorated bars I’ve been to. With walls of colorful wallpaper and corrugated tin, table covers of laminated floral prints, balloons and any props that were ‘celebratory.’ This artsy joint had Mojitos to rave about and a menu that was exhaustive. In a “city that never sleeps” and the night life just about starts at 2 am, we couldn’t help but feel that we hit our beds way too early.

There’s never a “Wrong turn” in Buenos Aires! Another spare day in this city, we decided to wander the streets. I stumbled across some charming sites, my favorite discovery definitely being El Ateneo. A refurbished theatre, today labeled as one of the top 10 bookstores in the world; it was an architectural wonder. We stood in awe, gazing at the frescoed dome roof, the private boxes where we saw avid readers absorbed in their books and what used to once be the stage rehabilitated into a café. I wasn’t very impressed with their collection of English Books, but none the less I highly recommend a visit to this place, even if it’s just to enjoy a coffee. Silent Sounds We soon ambled upon the picturesque pride and joy of the sprawling Palermo Woods- El Rosedal (Rose Garden) In the hustle bustle of life, it’s a good opportunity to pause for a moment and truly relish the smallest moments - from the sight of a bee snacking on the nectar, the fresh fragrance of a flower, the avenues of rose plants with their countless colors, the sight of young lovers paddle-boating through the artificial lake of Palermo, the chirping of the birds and simply resting on a bench and gazing aimlessly at the beauty that surrounds and overpowers. A moment to savor! This posh barrio of the Palermo woods was all about fitness! From cyclists to roller-skaters, joggers to brisk walkers, everyone spent the weekend ‘getting in shape.’ Could this be due to their high calorie ‘Empanada and meat’ diet? I must say that’s one hor’dourve we sampled everywhere! We had learned that in Argentina, meat was a way of life and if prepared well, it was held in high regard. Similarly in my country, a woman’s Dal Makhani (black lentils) is testament to her proficiency in the kitchen. Tuxedos and Camera Men On our way back to our hotel we spotted the infamous Café Tortini. Quite similar to Paris, in this city, cafes were the rage and coffee the desired drink. Our experience here was quite out of the ordinary. Café Tortini, known to be a place where business men shook hands on deals and lovers gazed endlessly into each other’s eyes. Our experience was of way too many tourists to say the least. Cameras flashed by the second and the waiters seemed more like fashion photographers clicking for the latest issue of Harpers Bazaar. The tuxedo clad waiter we requested, took several shots of us from various angles, quite to our amusement and of course satisfaction. Once again, only in Buenos Aires! We returned to the hotel to rest our feet. This evening we had booked ourselves for La Rural – an Opera Pampa show. As we reached the venue, a treat of Red Wine and Empanadas awaited us. An atmosphere of an Estancia recreated this music and Equestrian show with folklore and a fabulous display of gaucho skills was one more opportunity to entirely absorb the culture and history. Musings and Reflections “Don’t cry for me, Argentina, the truth is I never left you…” The last day of any vacation brings with it the usual pangs of sadness and muted attempts at denial of the fact that in a matter of a couple of days one is transported again to an existence far removed from the excitement and enchantment experienced in holidaying in a new destination. Not to mention the pleasant memories boldly etched in the mind like fresh colors dabbed on a canvas. Yes, these emotions did come to the fore while we paced the ‘Departure’ lounge at Buenos Aries Airport awaiting our flight back. But this time the lump in the throat, and the heavy heart usually associated with such holiday partings was accompanied by a feeling altogether new and different. Different from anything we ever experienced while waiting to leave foreign shores for the journey back home. A feeling which almost lulled our senses into believing that Argentina was not just a holiday destination but our home, even if for a brief period of two weeks. The generosity with which the people of this beautiful country spread their warmth, coupled with the feeling of being treated as a special guest without the overt demonstration of typical tourist friendly treatment, made one feel a sense of belonging. A feeling neither Nanita nor I had ever experienced in any foreign land. Our Argentina experience was a true stimulation of all senses. From the visually spectacular landscapes and expanse of El Calafete, to the cherished moments of solitude in Ushuaia… From the thunderous call of the Iguazu to the voice of the legendary Carlos Gardel that still resonates in the city… From sampling the finest bottles of Vino to savoring the traditional “Mate”…From the bursting excitement of La Boca to the feet tapping tunes of the “Tango”…The inevitable question we asked ourselves was – ‘Could our heart have desired more?’