Ecuador and Peru Family Trip

Leaving Quito by pick up from the Adventure Life tour company, we head for the airport (about 1.5 hours drive). The airport is brand new, it actually just opened before we arrived in late February. The road into the airport is great but there is no infrastructure surrounding it so traffic was crazy. We drove through both old and new areas, Nicky questioned why parts of Quito looked so ''broke''. We told him that it was very old. He then said, ''so did God make Quito before Toronto?'' Our flight was slightly delayed, we were surprised that the flight was about 99% male, we found out later that Coco and along the Napo river is big in oil production. The flight was short, 30 minutes over snow-capped Andes peaking through the clouds. The temp at arrival was 30 degrees and after a quick bus transfer to the river, we set off for a 2.5 hour boat transfer to the lodge. The river ride reminded me of being north in cottage country with the exception of boats, cottages and the addition of palm trees! We arrived to our next transfer point where we had to hike for 30 minutes to a lake and then get in canoes and paddle across to the lodge! I have to say by this point, I was wondering what the lodge would be like, so remote in this pure wilderness. The lodge is a full ecolodge and run like a camp. We have guides, schedules, meal times etc. Our family is joined by a lovely Canadian couple from Ottawa, our German guide who is the naturalist and an indigenous guide named Geraldo. Our cabin is adjoining with the kids with a sitting room in between - very simple but clean and comfortable. The cabins are screened all the way around the top with a porch looking out into the jungle. The rooms do not have locks but are equipped with dry boxes for storing cameras and electronics because of the extreme humidity. After our first dinner, our guides take us on a night hike (we were all fitted for giant wellies up to the knees). Saw so many small animals, banded cat-eyed snake, speckled caiman, tarantulas, turtles, tree frogs, and giant crickets the size of bread plates !!

It is not easy sleeping in the jungle! We were not bothered by mosquitoes or any nasties in our cabin however the loud and sometimes creepy jungle noises made for a disturbed sleep! To top that off, we were awakened by a 5 am knock on the door, getting us up for our first morning hike! After breakfast, we were off for a hike, canoe and then another hike over to the motorized canoe and back to the Napo river. A trek down the river led us to large banks of clay that attracts hundreds of Amazonian parrots and parakeets each morning. One of the highlights of the parrot watching was the sighting of a python sitting silently on a branch just feet from the unsuspecting parrots. Notwithstanding, we never saw the snake successfully strike. Upon returning from our morning outing, we had time for a swim in the Black Water lake. While the lake is home to piranhas, caimans and electric eels, we were told that it was completely safe as these animals are largely nocturnal and generally disinterested in humans (although a large sign cautions not to swim close to the shore or after 4 pm). Fortunately the lodge has a large dock which includes a diving board about 10 feet above the water. Steve went first and the kids fearlessly followed, I was happy taking pictures on the dock! In the afternoon we went for a long canoe ride navigated by our guides down a tight and twisty jungle canal. Highlights included multiple monkey sightings and at one point, squirrel monkeys playing just a few feet from our canoe. In addition to multiple bird sightings, the trek portion featured an interesting array of plant species including the mammoth sabre trees. Our native guide also explained different plants for medicinal, food and building purposes (Our guide also made the boys little toy boats out of seed pods and palm tree fibre which they could pull as we paddled along). Upon returning, we cleaned up before a big BBQ feast at the waterside building. The kids have been so good, Steve and I have been very impressed with them. It is not easy being told to sit still and be quiet for long stretches of time when searching for animals. Another amazing day in the Amazon...we are hitting the sack early more prepared this time for our next very early wake-up knock!

Another early morning (5:30 today!) began with a paddle and a hike out to Sacha Lodges Kapok tower which stands at 130 feet and is a rickety hike up about 20 flights of wooden stairs wrapping around a giant Ceibar tree. At the top of this beautiful tree you get the most impressive view of the canopy as well as many bird species. It was difficult containing the kids here as there were some serious birdwatchers and the boys got antsy fairly quickly. We then went on another hike although Nick slipped off a log bridge into a swampy creek (he was trying to avoid a trail of leaf-cutter ants which he was scared of after being bitten on our first day). He was fine although shaken up and wet ! After returning to the lodge, the boys went swimming with their clothes on which saved me from washing them! After lunch, we had a little extra free time as our afternoon hike did not start until 4:00 pm. When an afternoon rainshower started, we returned to the cabin for some downtime however, the peace was suddenly broken by the chatter of a group of adorable spider monkeys raiding a small banana palm just 20 feet from our back porch. The show went on for about 15 minutes before these amazing little animals retreated back into the jungle. Later in the aft we headed out for a hike which took us to an incredible 45 metre tower marking the start of a canopy-suspension bridge from which we could observe the jungle above. Stunning views !!! After dinner our guides took us by canoe onto the lake on which no artificial light is visible for a truly unbelievable experience as we floated silently below the star-lit sky and listened to a symphony of nocturnal jungle noises as lightening flashed on a distant horizon. While we never saw any caiman (crocs) that night, their glowing eyes could be seen as our guide shone his light along the shore line. As further evidence of the tranquility of the moment, both Jake & Nick fell asleep on our laps and had to be piggy-backed back to our cabin where we all retired after another amazing day!

Another early morning (5:30 today!) began with a paddle and a hike out to Sacha Lodges Kapok tower which stands at 130 feet and is a rickety hike up about 20 flights of wooden stairs wrapping around a giant Ceibar tree. At the top of this beautiful tree you get the most impressive view of the canopy as well as many bird species. It was difficult containing the kids here as there were some serious birdwatchers and the boys got antsy fairly quickly. We then went on another hike although Nick slipped off a log bridge into a swampy creek (he was trying to avoid a trail of leaf-cutter ants which he was scared of after being bitten on our first day). He was fine although shaken up and wet ! After returning to the lodge, the boys went swimming with their clothes on which saved me from washing them! After lunch, we had a little extra free time as our afternoon hike did not start until 4:00 pm. When an afternoon rainshower started, we returned to the cabin for some downtime however, the peace was suddenly broken by the chatter of a group of adorable spider monkeys raiding a small banana palm just 20 feet from our back porch. The show went on for about 15 minutes before these amazing little animals retreated back into the jungle. Later in the aft we headed out for a hike which took us to an incredible 45 metre tower marking the start of a canopy-suspension bridge from which we could observe the jungle above. Stunning views !!! After dinner our guides took us by canoe onto the lake on which no artificial light is visible for a truly unbelievable experience as we floated silently below the star-lit sky and listened to a symphony of nocturnal jungle noises as lightening flashed on a distant horizon. While we never saw any caiman (crocs) that night, their glowing eyes could be seen as our guide shone his light along the shore line. As further evidence of the tranquility of the moment, both Jake & Nick fell asleep on our laps and had to be piggy-backed back to our cabin where we all retired after another amazing day!

Another early morning (5:30 today!) began with a paddle and a hike out to Sacha Lodges Kapok tower which stands at 130 feet and is a rickety hike up about 20 flights of wooden stairs wrapping around a giant Ceibar tree. At the top of this beautiful tree you get the most impressive view of the canopy as well as many bird species. It was difficult containing the kids here as there were some serious birdwatchers and the boys got antsy fairly quickly. We then went on another hike although Nick slipped off a log bridge into a swampy creek (he was trying to avoid a trail of leaf-cutter ants which he was scared of after being bitten on our first day). He was fine although shaken up and wet ! After returning to the lodge, the boys went swimming with their clothes on which saved me from washing them! After lunch, we had a little extra free time as our afternoon hike did not start until 4:00 pm. When an afternoon rainshower started, we returned to the cabin for some downtime however, the peace was suddenly broken by the chatter of a group of adorable spider monkeys raiding a small banana palm just 20 feet from our back porch. The show went on for about 15 minutes before these amazing little animals retreated back into the jungle. Later in the aft we headed out for a hike which took us to an incredible 45 metre tower marking the start of a canopy-suspension bridge from which we could observe the jungle above. Stunning views !!! After dinner our guides took us by canoe onto the lake on which no artificial light is visible for a truly unbelievable experience as we floated silently below the star-lit sky and listened to a symphony of nocturnal jungle noises as lightening flashed on a distant horizon. While we never saw any caiman (crocs) that night, their glowing eyes could be seen as our guide shone his light along the shore line. As further evidence of the tranquility of the moment, both Jake & Nick fell asleep on our laps and had to be piggy-backed back to our cabin where we all retired after another amazing day!

We started the day saying goodbye to our new friends Phil & Jane with who we have shared our treks with over the previous 3 days. Adding to several small world experiences, it turns out both Phil & Steve have a common friend in the business community. We set off on a morning hike which took us to a giant ciebar tree with a natural arch in the base so large the pathway went right through it. These massive 400 year old trees are truly awe-inspring. As usual, our native guide Geraldo pointed out a number of plants that are used by indigenous peoples for food, medicines and an array of practical purposes. Geraldo has been great with the kids. Even though he does not speak English, he has built a bond with them and fashioned several little souvenirs from jungle plants. The morning concluded with a little fishing off the swim dock where both boys successfully caught small white piranha using a simple bamboo fishing pole and raw chicken. They then proceeded to cool off with a swim in the very same waters! After lunch and a siesta, we commenced our final outing at Sacha Lodge, more hiking and canoeing down narrow jungle streams. WHile it was all more of the same, one can't help but be impressed every time another monkey or exotic plant is seen. As we reflect on our few days here we come away somewhat changed. The jungle started out to be an inhospitable place - hot, damp, muddy and home to poison plants, bugs and reptiles. Yet, our anxieties have subsided as our guides have given us a more informed perspective of these risks and a much deeper appreciation for the wonders of this amazing place.

Today was a travel day. We paddle across the lake from the lodge where we hike for 30 minutes before reaching the Napo river. We are treated to red Howler monkeys playing above the trail as we pass. Its then a 2 hour power boat ride (the last hour was in heavy rain) before we reach Coca to catch our plane back to Quito. The bad weather leads to a series of delays so we wait it out in the tiny, hole-in-the-wall airport. We finally arrive Quito by late afternoon and after more travel delays (excessive traffic) get us to our hotel much later than anticipated. Our clothes are all damp, dirty and stinky from the Amazon and we desperately need some help before heading out at 5 am tomorrow morning! Fortunately, the people at our small hotel take pity on us (perhaps we smelt as bad as our clothing) and did a rush load of laundry so that we'd have the clean essentials. The kids were good but understandably fed up after a long day. Luckily, the hotel's resident rabbit Brownie which hops freely about the property - in and out - provides some relief for this travel weary family !

Today is a much easier travel day as we arrive into the Galapagos at 11:00 am after picking up an hour in the time zone exchange. What is remarkable about our arrival into the Galapagos is their heightened security, but not for reasons you might expect. All of our bags are hand searched, not for weapons but to ensure that people do not bring the smallest specimen of foreign plant or animal matter from outside the country (even mainland ecuador). The boys actually had small seeds (called Ecuador Ivory) that our guide in the Amazon found for them - these were confiscated. The authorities here are deeply concerned about introducing anything which might effect the delicate balance of the Galapagos eco-system. We meet our guide after collecting our luggage and soon arrive at our first lodging, the Red Mangrove on Santa Cruz Island. The boys spot the ocean frontage from the check-in desk and excited run out in search of crabs. They return moments later as ecstatic as Christmas morning to report that marine iquanas and sea lions are all over our hotel deck !! After settling in, we jounrey to a nearby beach for a refreshing swim and head back home in anticipation of tomorrows events!

We begin our day with a short walk from the Red Mangrove to the neighbouring Charles Darwin Research Centre. We focus on giant land tortoises but also learn a little more about the broader work of the centre - to sustain threatened species and eradicate any aggresive, non-indigenous ones (rats, ferrel dogs and cats as well as a variety of plants). The people here are fiercely protecting the land, a whopping 97% of the land is National Park. It is comforting to know that this place will look much the same for our grandkids!! After toruing the centre we board a van which takes us from the coast to the highlands. At our first stop, we take a short walk to a view point overlooking two massive sink holes created when underground voids created by lava flows collapsed. After that we move on to a second site where we could walk underground through large lava tubes (cool but a bit claustrophobic for me!). Lava tubes occur when the top layer of a lava flow hardens and the flow below eventually drains off to create these amazing caves. Back up on the surface, we walk around and are able to interact with several giant tortoises within a few feet in their natural habitiat. It was awe-inspiring to see these beautiful gentle giants, 300+lbs and up to 100+ years old lumber about in the pastural highlands. After lunch we board a fast boat for the 1.5 hour journey to neighboring Floreana Island. This is one of the least populated with just 120 residents (2 small hotels, 2 restaurants). Our accommodations in Floreana are these cute little cottages, about 10 of them in all which line the waterfront. They are simply a small bedroom and washroom. There are no common facilities other than the little boardwalk that runs in front of them on the rocky beach. We have our meals at the little open air cafe down the road. Shortly after our arrival, we set off for a short hike along the waterfront with our snorkel gear in tow. After about 20 minutes, we reach a small cove with a sandy entry point. The waterfront is otherwise black lava rock. We gear up and within minutes of entering the water, we encounter numerous sea turtles and stingrays calmly swimming around us. It is a wonderful experience and the kids are thrilled. We snorkel over to a little sandy island not far away and as we get to the island we are happily greeeted by sea lions. We then come across this adorable little guy who our guide tells us is about 2 wks old. One after another we come across his 5 little brothers and sisters!!! These sea lion pups are unbelievably cute and like most species in the Galapagos, have no fear of humans so you can all but touch them (trust me, I wanted to go and hug them but contact is forbidden!) After this wonderful experience, we return to our little cabins, enjoy a simple meal and retire to the sound of the surf crashing outside our door.

After breakfast we board a traditional style bus which has seats and a roof but no sides and we ascend to the highlands where we visit another giant tortoise sanctuary. This provides another great opportunity to interact with these remarkable animals at close range in their natural environment. After this, we embark on a short hike to unique rock formations as well as caves and rock carvings which are believed to have been used as a hiding place by pirates and buccaneers. They are said to have chosen Floreana as a hide-out because it is one of the only Galapagos Islands to have a natural fresh-water source. By late morning, we board another fast boat (as they call them) to our next destination, Isabela Island. Isabela is the largest of the Galapagos Islands and contributes 60% of the total land mass. Our accommodation is a little adobe style building fronting on a large sand beach. After lunch, we travel by water taxi and are taken to an old lava flow which extends out into the ocean, La Tintorenas. This is home to colonies of both sea lions and marine iquanas. The marine iguanas are particularly abundant and we see everything from 3 inch babies to 2 foot daddies. As we return from La Tintorenas, we drop anchor and jump over the side for another snorkel. We are hoping that the sea lions will join us for a swim but we didn't see any in the water - we settle for more sea turtles, rays and brilliant fish instead. On our boat ride back we pass a colony of blue-footed boobies (still the boys favorite joke) and are even treated to an appearance by the rare Galapagos penguin. To end our day, we head back to the lodge and the boys play in the sand and surf before bed.

After an early morning play in the surf we have breakfast and then drive out to the base of Sierra Negro Volcano. This active volcano last erupted in 2005. In the blazing heat of the equatorial sun, we climb along a trail for about an hour before reaching a viewpoint at the edge of a 4 mile wide caldera, the opening at the top of the volcano (2nd largest in the world). Below is a vast sea of hardened black lava with steam emanating from the various cracks. Our hotel has packed us all hearty snacks so we hang out here for a while enjoying the view and recovering from the uphill climb. After an easier (and cooler as it clouds over) hike down again, we transfer to a local farm where we are served a wonderful lunch with all foods coming from the farm. I can't help wondering if the chickens free range grazing around the farm are looking for one of their lost buddies....Later in the day we try snorkeling again at a local site (off the shore) but the locals are feeling the intense heat as well and the area is packed with people. We end up back at Isabela lodge and Steve and I enjoy happy hour (Caiperinas!) while the kids get some well deserved kobo time.

We say goodbye to our wonderful guide Vico this morning. Vico was born and raised in the Galapagos and his intimate knowledge and passion for the islands have endeared him to us. He has also been wonderful with the boys. We join another group for a short morning tour of the Arnaldo Tupiza tortoise breeding centre. The tortoises on Isabela island were nearly extinct and this breeding and release program has wonderfully boosted their numbers again. We also take a short hike through some mangrove areas to view a flamingo lagoon. After our return and a quick lunch, we board the fast boat again for our trip back to Santa Cruz Island. The 2 hour boat ride has lost a bit of the initial charm and it is also incredibly warm, we are not feeling that great by the time we arrive back in SC. We did however see some dolphins and possibly sharks (debated amongst the passengers!) during the ride. After checking in to the Red Mangrove for our final evening, we take a stroll through the town of Puerto Ayora. This town is quite cute but touristy, all shops are souvenir oriented (with hugely inflated prices from mainland ecuador). Steve almost buys the ''I Love Boobies'' t shirt but somehow resists. We pass the small port where fisherman are chopping up their fresh catches for the locals. There are pelicans and sea lions everywhere hoping for falling scraps! A mother seal barks away her baby who recoils sheepishly away and hides behind us as we watch the scene unfold. I will miss these beautiful animals and these extreme close encounters!

Today is another travel day and they are beginning to take their toll. We feel tired at the prospect of more transfers, flights and line-ups. Regardless, we start the journey back to the mainland (taxi, boat, bus, plane) and are picked up once again by our Quito contact. Again we hit Friday rush hour back to the city and make it to hotel La Rabida just in time before a gigantic thunderstorm hits. The kids and Steve hang out in one of the rooms while I do a full scale unpack-repack of all our bags to stash away our sweaty/wet gear, snorkels and sandals and pull out the rain jackets, fleece and hiking boots! From this point forward, we will work with what we've got and I'll deal with the excessive laundry situation back in Toronto!

A very rude 3:15 am wake-up call prepares us for a 3:45 pick-up for our flight to Lima. Nick actually had a decent sleep but Jake is like a cranky teenager. There are other passengers in our minivan today (same tour company) who have just returned from Peru and are raving about their experience. This lightens our spirits considerably as we get more excited for this final leg of our journey! We leave Quito about 45 minutes delayed due to foggy weather (not uncommon for Quito) and therefore arrive late into Lima and end up running for our connecting flight to Cusco (had to claim baggage, pass customs, recheck bags etc!) As we approach Cusco from the air, you get a sense of the altitude change as the ground extends up to meet the plane instead of the other way around!! Cusco is at 11,000 feet and nestled between the Andes peaks. We are greeted at the airport to a swarm of tour operators, vendors and big bowls of coca leaves for altitude sikness. I have been very worried about how we would react to the altitude as I've heard from some people that it can hit as soon as the plane doors open. Luckily, we are feeling fine apart from being a little breathless. We are met at the airport by our new guide Azul who is friendly and enthusiastic. He is born and raised in the area and I find my initial fears regarding Peru put to rest (Note: while in Costa Rica, we received a travel notice warning of non-essential travel to Peru issued by the US embassy. The warning was since dropped and therefore we decided to proceed with our plans). Ayul takes us to our hotel and then takes us for an orientation walk around the city centre. Like all colonial (Spanish) towns that we have visited, the city centre is built around a large public park/plaza with a large cathedral at one end and a mix of restaurants, cafes and shops surrounding the perimeter. The plaza is charming and the overall setting is further enhanced by the mountain vistas in every direction. Ayul tells us that it is best to have a light dinner to minimize the affects of the high altitude so we have an early dinner and head back to our hotel to catch up on some sleep!

At 7:00 am Ayul picks us up in a private van. We leave Cusco and begin our journey through the Sacred Valley (''Secret Valley'' as Nicky calls it). Our first stop is an animal sanctuary. This was an unexpected surprise for the kids and even left a strong impression on Steve and I. We see McCaws sitting freely on some branches. The operator tells us that they were rescued from smugglers. We are told that a common method of illegal export is to stuff a half dozen or more in a PVC pipe and hope that a few survive, very sad. We see two beautiful mountain lions rescued from a nightclub fire in Lima. The highlight for the kids however is seeing 3 enormous condors, the largest birds with 10 ft wing spans. It is feeding time and these monsters swoop down just a couple feet over our heads. There were sad stories behind many of the animals but it was uplifting to see how many were being helped and reintroduced to their natural habitat by the shelter. We are happy to make a small contribution when we leave. We move on and drive to the first archeological site of the day. A place called Moray where we find a deep recession in the highlands which have been terraced in concentric circles. It is believed that these terraces were used for farming by early Quechan peoples. However, this particular site was something of a laboratory as the protected nature of the valley produced different microclimates where the Quechan experimented with the growth of different crop species. It is another example of the surprising sophistication of this early civilization. After trekking down a couple of hundred steps and back up, we stop for a nice lunch before continuing to our ultimate destination of Ollantaytambo. Our next stop along the way is the Pisac market. This is one of the largest outdoor markets in the area with a broad assortment of fruits, vegetables as well as beautiful artisan crafts. We do our best to support the local economy! We continue on and finally arrive in Ollantaytambo. This quaint little town marks the beginning of the Inca trail to Machu Picchu. For those not inclined to make the 4-day hike, it is also the place where you can catch the train! We will spend the night in Ollantaytambo giving us time to explore its own impressive ruins. For a little added excitement that evening, a large tree near the centre of town topples over around 6:00pm leaving the entire town without power. While most restaurants have had to close, we are fortunate to stumble across a little cafe with a wood burning pizza oven. After a candle-lit dinner, we head back in the dark to our candle-lit hotel and turn in early.

We awake in Ollantaytambo at 6 am, still without power. After a simple breakfast, we board two little 3-wheeled motorcycles with a bench seat and covered cabin. We have just a couple of backpacks with our overnight essentials as we are restricted from bringing more on the train. Even those hiking the Inca trail have to pass a weigh station. After short and somewhat entertaining ride on our little 3-wheeler, we arrive at the train station. The station is surprisingly modern, clean and charming. It obviously caters to tourists. The 1.5 hr train ride is stunning, we are in the ''A'' coach with large seats and windows all around. We arrive into Aquas Calientes, the small town just outside Machu Picchu. The town is very touristy with mainly restaurants, hotels and souvenir shops. We check into our hotel (El Mapi) (we walk because there are no cars in this town, everything is by foot except the buses up to Machu Picchu). The hotel is surprisingly ultra-modern and very cool with big, graphic signs everywhere. There are plenty of European and Japanese tourists. We meet up again with Ayul and walk to the bus line-up to MP, everything is very controlled and orderly, tickets and passports are required in advance for entry. The 20 min bus ride up the mountain is breathtaking (literally) as we scale the side of the mountain zigzagging all the way up ! We arrive up to the site of Machu Picchu and spend the rest of the afternoon taking in the glorious and stunning history of this true world wonder.

We meet Ayul at 7 am and decide to take a hike along the river that passes below Machu Picchu to a large waterfall. The valley walls are steep and the river is a raging torrent below so the path mostly hugs the single line railway track. We occasionally stand back as a small train trundles slowly by. As we leave the town, we come across a couple of tail-wagging dogs. There are quite a few street dogs about but they are mostly friendly surviving on scraps from restaurants and tourists. We haven't come across any aggressive dogs throughout our travels however they can apparently be a problem in the suburbs of the larger cities where they travel in packs (we've seen these packs from the car in Quito). In any case, we are badly missing our dog at home so we welcome the company of these strays (but don't allow the kids to touch them!). Our new furry friends decide to accompany us on our hike so off we go. Ayul points out many natural and historical points of interest along the hike and we end up at a beautiful natural waterfall with banana trees, lovely tropical plants and many varieties of orchids. It really is a beautiful and fascinating country. Around noon, we return to town for a quick lunch and then head over to the train station for our train back to Ollantaytambo. We are met there by our driver and private van who then shuttles us through the highlands, glaciers visible in the distance and back to our main base of Cusco where we will now spend time exploring and learning more about this former Incan capital and Peru's 4th largest city!

We start a busy day with a visit to the church and convent of Santo Domingo. This may initially sound a little dry except that the Spanish built this on top and around one of the most important temples of the Incan empire. The architecture is an interesting mix. The Spaniards could not move many of the massive stones used by the Incas so they attempted to plaster over them. The archeological restoration reveals the underlying construction and the history is very interesting. Our next stop is the main market in Cusco. This is a large building where the locals shop and it is an incredibly assault on the senses! Ayul takes us through and shows us many of the unique Peruvian foods including many things with natural medicinal properties. The butcher section is of particular interest to the boys (and my revolution) as one can see pig heads, cows mouths, hooves, brains, penises, tongues, etc. etc! It's a regular week day in Cusco and the market is packed with locals, many in traditional Peruvian dress out doing their shopping. It is quite a sight. From the market we grab a taxi and take a drive to the outskirts of town to see another important archeological site called Saksayhuaman. One of the most striking features of this site are the enormous stones used to build the wall. it is something of a mystery as to how the Incan were able to shape, move and fit these massive blocks together with such intricate precision without mortar and that they have been able to withstand centuries including many earthquakes. We head back into town for a nice lunch before heading to the Incan museum. We do a quick run through to view smaller artifacts which reinforce what we are learning at the ruins. After this we have a look inside the cathedral on the main square. It is unbelievably ornate due to the fact that Peru is a large producer of gold and silver, everything in the building has been slathered with it! When we leave the chapel around 3pm, we say goodbye to our guide Ayul for the final time. While we have only been with him for 5 days, we have really come to like him and he has been amazing with the kids. Perhaps not surprising given that he has 2 children the same age as ours but he has been a perfect fit for our family along this journey. As if we haven't done enough already today, we decide to take a look into a little place called the chocolate museum which is part museum, part cafe and part store. We celebrate by tasting Peru's finest (which is fine!) We complete our day, what amounts to the end of the Cusco/Machu Picchu leg with a dinner at one of Cusco's finer restaurants. With everything it has going for it, Peru has just recently been receiving international recognition by foodies as the next big thing. Our experience bears that out. Good-bye Cusco!

A long day on the bus! We get picked up at 6:30 am for a 7:00 am bus departure. The ride from Cusco to Puno is 9 hours but goes by surprisingly quickly with several stops along the way. The most interesting stop is a beautiful vista view of the glaciers as we reach the highest point of our journey thus far. The rest of the ride is rather mundane with more 'normal' landscape. Passing through Juliaca is unremarkable at best! We arrive into Puna around 5pm, smaller and less charming than Cusco and economically more challenged. Our hotel is basic but well located at the end of the main tourist area with a few restaurants and shops. We are feeling slightly off from the bus ride and high altitude so we have a light meal and head back to the hotel to organize our bags for the night out to Amantani Island tomorrow.

We leave the hotel at 7:30, Steve still not feeling well after a sleepless night (symptom of altitude sickness). We head down to the harbour and pick up a few food items and water for our boat trip to Amantani and the family of which we'll be staying with. We also have a huge pack of goodies that we have brought from Canada (and dragged around the last 6 weeks of travel!) The boat ride to Uros is only about 20 minutes long. The floating Islands are quite unbelievable and so primative. Tourism is the main source of income so the woman are constantly showing you their handicrafts and asking for extra money for every service (small boat ride in a reed boat, photos etc.) We purchase a few souvenirs and hav a family photo taking dressed in traditional clothing. We then hop back on the boat for a 3 hour ride to Amantani Island. Lake Titicaca is a beautiful dark green colour and you can see the shores of both Peru and Bolivia + many islands. We reach Amantani and despite a supposed 'roster' system of families, our guide determines that it is too disorganized and therefore walks us to a home where he has stayed before and he knows they can accommodate 4 people. It is a bit odd given we've read that the roster system is quite important but nonetheless, we follow our guide. The home we arrive at is very simple, perhaps even more basic then we were expecting. The rooms face an open concrete courtyard, we are on the 2nd level and there are no railings to the concrete below so I am immediately on edge having the kids up there (plus there are no doctors or hospitals within a 3 hour boat ride). Our room is simple, 4 single beds with blankets only, no linens. It does have some nice windows and great views out to the fields. The family has not been expecting anyone so we wait about an hour for lunch to be prepared while watching the boys play with the little boy of the home. They throw old garden hoses around and they chase each other with a dead bird they found, it is all very primitive and frankly the lack of hygeine/safety makes me very nervous. There is an outhouse but no running water, the kitchen is a dirt floor and the mother sits on a stool near the wood burning stove while cooking. We cross our fingers and hope that the probiotics we've been taking sustain us! The lunch is a very nice vegetable soup with some cut cucumbers, tomatoes, fried cheese and potatoes. There are over 300 types of potatoes in Peru and they are part of virtually every meal (and many kinds at each meal). After lunch we walk to meet the rest of the people who were on the boat with us and we hike to the tallest lookout point on the Island. It is a steep walk and the boys luck out by getting a horse ride half way up. It is a beautiful view from the top but as the sun goes down, the temperature drops and we are freezing. The locals know this secret well and have strategically positioned themselves along the path so we all score new hats and gloves to keep us warm for the hike back! We arrive back to our home for dinner time, our guide is not well so goes to bed so we are left eating dinner with lots of smiles, nods and not a whole lot of conversation. It is so chilly that instead of changing our clothes we simply add to what we already have on and pile in bed (praying that no one has to go to the bathroom in the night!)

We are up very early, pack up our room, enjoy some pancakes with jam and leave our host family. Despite the fact that we really were not able to have any conversation (our guide was better in the morning but did not eat breakfast), it was very interesting to see how these people live such simple but tough lives. It made us all appreciate and miss our home in Canada.

Leaving Puno today and flying out of Juliaca through Lima, Miami and back home to Toronto. We've had an amazing, eye-opening, thrilling 6 weeks of travel. Our bond as a family has strengthened and although we are really excited to get home, we are already dreaming about our next travel experience together!