Galapagos Through the Eyes of an Artist, 2

Galapagos, October, 2015
I cannot describe to you how fortunate I feel, to be invited to explore more of these mysterious islands.  And how strange and marvelous the circumstances!  To be speaking to you again along these lines is truly a gift—a gift given all because I won a contest!  Readers voted for me to win Adventure Life’s Blog Contest, and I received a free cruise back to the Galapagos—to the islands I hadn’t yet seen.  Here is the link to my first trip, Galapagos Through the Eyes of an Artist.  In it, you will find details about my travels to the Northwestern Islands aboard the Guantanamera in May, 2015.  There are plenty of photos! It highlights the art I created, gives facts on the animals that live there, and provides travel tips.  This blog will focus on my travels on the Eastern route, sailing on the Millennium, in October 2015.  The goal is the same: to share my art, photos and observations.  I will also compare the two voyages, to give potential travelers insight into which tour, which boat, and maybe what time of year might suit them best.  But I should start at the beginning of the trip, and let it unfold in some sort of natural order.

Packing for Galapagos is always the first adventure.  The rule book states that there is a limit of 44 pounds!  I found it best to use one of those small, roller suitcases that many pass off as their carry-on luggage, and a backpack.  I wanted to be reasonably mobile with my stuff—transferring from planes to buses to dinghies to ships would require it.  Inside the luggage, I used those extra-large, Ziploc type bags that roll up really tight.  They are ideal for fitting more into a smaller space.  Then on excursions they double as protection for cameras and other things from water damage.  (Check out this link, where I highlight ways I packed and made a simple, cheap water protection feature for my camera that turned out to be invaluable on both trips.) 

And then we were off!  Phoenix, Miami, Quito.  Filling out forms, getting passports stamped, claiming luggage, obtaining a taxi.  A long day’s journey to arrive at our lovely Rincon de Puembo hotel. (It is amazing how much shorter the flight TO your destination is, verses on the way HOME.  I know, it’s physiological.) The hotel has a beautiful courtyard, helpful staff and flowers everywhere.  As an artist, I especially enjoyed the detailed murals inside the vault of the domed ceilings!  A nice start to our 8 days in Ecuador!  We were greeted with a refreshing fruity beverage and a kind letter in our room….”We hope you have an excellent time in our property and that you have enjoyed our beautiful Ecuador as part of your honeymoon…”  Which was hilarious, since, this time, I was not travelling with my husband (of 25 years), but with one of my best friends, Jaime!  

The next day we were promptly greeted by our Adventure Life driver and guide, Giovanni, and transferred to the airport for the flight(s) to the Galapagos.  He walked us through the entire process, obtaining our Galapagos Transit Card, and all the way through security, to make sure we were well on our way. (Keep your card!  You will need it on the way back.)  There was a quick stop in Guayaquil, as is typical, to pick up more passengers. We did not deplane, (it is a short wait), then we continued on to the islands.  FYI--they spray the plane to kill off any stowaway bugs.   I was lucky enough to be on the ‘good’ side of the plane, and got a nice aerial view of Kicker Rock as we descended into San Cristobal.  It stood like a 450 foot sentinel, almost as if it was waiting for visitors to snorkel along its walls.

More lines and passport review.  (If you like collecting stamps in your passport, make sure you ask for one from Galapagos, many times they don’t if you don’t request it!) We made eye contact with the guide holding the sign marked “Millennium”.   The transfer to the dock was relatively painless, and we were treated to our first view of wildlife while waiting to board:  sea lion mothers and pups lounging on seaside benches.  The crew quickly ferried our luggage to our cabins and we were off!  I learned we only had a group of 9—the boat usually holds 16 adventurers and crew.  Our guide’s name was Tommy.  (I want to take this moment to highlight the helpful attitude of the staff on these boats.  One of our fellow travelers had arrived a day or two early and her underwater camera was ruined while she snorkeled.  Tommy scrambled to find her a local connection to purchase a used GoPro, and it was in-hand when we boarded.  I will also take this moment to urge you to budget for tips.  Most boats are cash only, and these folks work really hard to make your voyage amazing.)

First visit:  Isla Lobos (Sea Lion island).  True to its name, for sure.  We took a short hike, passing a blue-footed booby on her nest.  Our first creature on our first island, and it is the most iconic of Galapagos sea birds!  We all had our lists of ‘must see’ animals, so it was nice to check one off within a few minutes of our feet striking sand.  (For information about the blue footed booby, and the art piece I did of one from my last tour, click here.  Scroll about half way.) 

We also passed a male frigate bird and a very large, fuzzy frigate chick.  Off in the distance, the vibrant crimson, inflated throat patch of another male was visible.  The rest of the frigate gang soared lazily on currents above us.  (Info and art, click here. Scroll to the middle and to the bottom.)  More frigate factoids: they boast the greatest wing surface to body weight of any living bird.  Since they do not produce enough oil to make their feathers waterproof, frigates cannot dive.  If they get waterlogged, they will drown.  Frigates grab food off the surface of the ocean, flush flying fish out of the water to catch them midair, as well as pirate food from other birds returning to the nests.  So frigates have to be able to tell the difference between an empty and a full bird! A lot of specific, tricky skills these guys need to master in order to make it in the world!  The abilities needed to survive requires extra parenting—they stay with the chicks for 16-18 months in order to insure they will make it.  It is the longest parental care in the bird world.

Then we saw the main attraction for this island:  a group of female sea lions with their pups, only days old. There were at least a dozen babies, covered in soft, golden brown fuzz.  We even spied a placenta, half buried in sand.  A male hollered at the females from the water, and the mothers and tots bawled and grunted at each other. Even suckling was a noisy affair!  Some babies snuggled together, touching noses and looking around.  Others explored the rocks, on wobbly flippers, and played with tree limbs they could reach.  I could’ve gotten lost in their dark, liquid eyes.  It was so incredible to just sit and observe this little community for a while. 

Which, of course, became my first artist's inspiration.

 But there were more adventures for the day!  On to snorkeling!

This was a good first test of our equipment, and most of us decided it was time to rent wetsuits!  Brrr!  Our guide said that the water was actually unusually warm, due to El Niño.  It should be around 60 degrees, and instead he guessed it around 72.  It was cold enough for us!  The visibility wasn’t so great here, but it was rewarding to catch glimpses of the fish species we would encounter.  (I kept a running list, which I will share later, of species we could identify from the boat’s library of marine creatures.) But a few examples of what we saw included: a male sea lion that cruised by, on watch for intruders into its territory, Green and Pencil urchins that littered the sea bottom, and a large school of Razor Surgeonfish. 

Then it was back to settle in on the Millennium, and explore our home away from home.  The boat was beautiful…gorgeous wood flooring and reasonably ample space in the rooms (for a boat, anyway!).  We had our own private balcony.  There were several areas on the ship for gathering and enjoying views.  The food was delicious, and plentiful. Over the course of the week, we ate either around large tables in the dining area, or on the back deck outside for amazing views!   I am not a good sleeper anyway, so the rocking and the engine noise were a problem for me.  Another traveler said it was like being in a giant hammock…so I think it depends on your particular system.  I had already predicted that I might have problems, so with the assistance of Dramamine and a sleep aide, I settled down for some (hopefully) rest and tried not to keep myself awake, thinking about the amazing days ahead!



 

Next stop: Punta Pitt, San Cristobal!
We had a leisurely walk on a strangely colored, greenish beach, made so by olivine crystals in the sand.  Lava lizards abound.  We then turned inland and hiked up a dry river run that flows freely in El Niño rains—they have to take travelers elsewhere during those years.  It must be gorgeous to see it flowing, though.  What amazing rock formations!  Strange, banded lava boulders.  Water erosion “steps” we climbed, and dry pools, waiting for the rains. Lichens in alien colors like lavender and chartreuse.  It was a very dry landscape. The only real green was a strange succulent.  The trees were dormant and I could see their ‘bones’.  A young finch poked its head out of a well-designed nest.

We saw a few red footed boobies, but this particular hike is more known for its landscapes than for wildlife.  (For artwork click here.)

On the hillside, sky lined, we spotted two goats.  This is an unfortunate sighting, as goats are actively being eradicated from the islands.  They were originally brought here by sailors and pirates, who released them. They reproduced and thrived, and they were a food source next time they traveled that way.  Goats are devastating to the animals and plants on the islands, destroying nests, and so on.  Our guide reported the sighting and we continued on. 

Galapagos Fact:  They use several techniques to get the goats…the most unique one I heard of is called ‘the Judas Goat’ method.  Goats are social animals, so they catch one, place a bell on it and release it.  The poor thing leads the hunters right to the flock!   It is sad, but a necessary measure to be taken to protect the species that are indigenous to the islands. (Other non-indigenous species on the removal lists are rats and cats.   I spotted cat tracks on one occasion, and a cat skull elsewhere.  I think, on populated islands, the dogs are also an issue, but much more complicated to deal with.)  Did you know there are only two land mammals native to the islands?  Rice rats, and the Galapagos bat.  And there are no amphibians!  Scientists muse that amphibians couldn’t survive the salt water migration required to get here. 

Tommy, the guide, lent me his extreme wide angle lens and I got to play with proportions.  He also did an amazing time lapse of the boats and the sea, and shared it with me on my iPhone.  Click here to view!

Amazing snorkeling!  We were wayyy more comfortable in our shorty wetsuits.  Much better visibility here as well.  We saw a wide variety of fish species.  I spied what looked like mating behavior…a massive school of fish, with an occasional individual shooting straight up out of the school, immediately chased by others.  Two sea lions joined us and were very playful.  They would swim up underneath me, so close I had to pull my flippers up to make way for them!  One had a rock in her mouth, which she would show me, drop and then catch again.  The two would cuddle up together underwater, touch noses, then break away to play with the humans.  A snorkel tip:  Most people tend to keep their eyes on the bottom, because that is where you typically see fish.  Make sure you scan the waterline, both above and below the surface!  Sea lions, penguins and other animals oftentimes skim the surface while traveling, and if your head is down, they will go right on by unseen.  (Watch the shoreline, as well.  Animals hang out right on the edge of the surf.  For one thing, the Sally Lightfoot crabs on the rocks are much easier to approach from the water.)  And, in my practice looking above the water line, I saw an immature red-footed booby hovering over our group.  I brought my GoPro up to capture him on camera.  He locked in on me, and kept flying closer and closer, hovering over my head.  It seemed he was trying to land on me, so I finally just ducked underwater and I thought I felt his wings graze my scalp! 

I can’t really describe how it felt to be eye to eye with a bird in flight.  Amazing!  He went over and landed on the dingy, so I swam over and got more photos of him and his buddy.  They stayed aboard, even when we all climbed on, and caught a ride all the way back to the Millennium!

We enjoyed lunch back on board, followed by a 4 and a half mile hike into the Tortoise Natural Reserve (La Galapaguera).  The weather was overcast, and a bit humid.  We came upon five different tortoises in the wild. An absolute giant had half-buried himself under the dry vegetation!   One, a 10-12 year old, according to Tommy, was not numbered…meaning it was a natural hatching that occurred on the island.  He reported that in to the powers that be, and was glad to see that that was occurring.  It meant the group was doing well beyond human intervention.  He pointed out that they were living on their fat reserves until the rains came.  The “foliage” consisted of dead leaves, dried grasses and sticks-for-trees.  The only greenery, a type of cotton, the tortoises don’t eat.  This is one of the species that will thrive with the coming of El Niño —it isn’t all bad news!  With the rains come much food for land creatures.  We sat down as a group near one of the tortoises, quietly observing.  He actually turned around and walked towards us! 

His movements were slow and meticulous.  It almost reminded me of the old Disney animatronic robots.  We spent some quality time just watching each other.  His lack of urgency was contagious.  Oftentimes, there is so much to see on these trips, and so few precious hours, sometimes I’d feel a frenzied push to experience (and photograph) as much as possible.  Looking into ancient eyes, I slowed my pace and sat with him, and with my silent friends as we all just marveled.  For more information and other art I have done with the tortoises, click here.)
My artist's inspiration for today.

Please check out the photo album for additional pictures!
 

Cerro Brujo.  This is what is left of a tuff cone.  (That is where the lava enters a very cold ocean, causing an explosion.  It creates a different shape.)  This is also one of the first sites visited by Charles Darwin.  The sun came out for our visit here, which was welcome.  We rode the dinghies along the cliff face, giving us only an indication to the enormity of the place.  They drove us into a giant canyon they called the Cathedral…maybe because people pray they will survive???  Only a photo with other little dingy can even remotely portray the size of this place!  It dwarfed us!

The surf beat against the stone, and I tried to imagine how water could ever have enough power to change its surface.  We also got to boat through an amazing rock channel as well.  So, we went to church, and then to the beach, a perfect Sunday!  And what a gorgeous beach!  Waters of an indescribable turquoise.  Beautiful white sand.  Black volcanic rocks cradling the shoreline.  The waves were strong, but well worth the effort to swim here because of the company.  We were joined by more sea lions, ready to play. (Snorkeling, not as good…the churning sand made for bad visibility.)  The sea lions seemed to watch us as much as we observed them.  They floated just below the surface, eye level, and I swear, I could see an intelligence there.  It also seemed to me that they enjoyed being so much more aerodynamic and agile under the sea.  I wondered if they had a name for us, and if it was a sea lion synonym for “slow, klutzy, oxygen-hungry bipeds with really interesting toys.” (Sea lions have been known to use an iguana as a toy, tossing it and chasing it, although experts claim that they don’t hurt them…) An American oyster catcher male and female escorted their fuzzy, grey chick, searching for food. 

Preening quite conveniently with Kicker Rock in the background, a blue-footed booby gave us the postcard worthy shot.  Other seabirds that joined the party: sanderling, lava gull, Galapagos flycatcher, pelican and petrel.  An occasional marine iguana sunned itself on the lava rocks.  I set up my iPhone on a tripod to do a time lapse of the sea lions and surf, and one curious gal came up and inspected my phone!  (Click here to view!)

Kicker Rock is actually two volcanic rocks, the remains of a tuff cone, that jut up from the sea.  Apparently it is named Kicker Rock because from one side it looks like a boot.  The Spanish name, Leon Dormido, comes from the opinion that from another angle, it looks like a sleeping lion.  Our visit was a memorable one. The seas were rough.  So much so that after I bailed out of the dingy, the guide in the other boat decided to start us snorkeling on the OTHER side of the island, so they had to haul me back up over the side!  Not so dignified, but pretty amusing. But, rough seas and all, it was well worth the effort!  We pretty much circumnavigated the island.  The vertical plane of the cliff housed colorful anemones, and barnacles.  Urchins hid in indentions, and fish hugged the walls.

Several sea turtles appeared from the blue, and then faded back into the depths.  (Fun Green sea turtle fact:  The algae they eat results in green body fat.)  Two black tipped reef sharks made their presence known.  A male sea lion cruised on by, so close to Jaime we affectionately dubbed it ‘body surfing’.  Two playful teenage sea lions shot up from the deep so quickly they almost didn’t register until after they had darted away.  Tiny juvenile Salina schooled just below the surface, resembling little orbs of mercury more than fish.  The bubbles were mesmerizing.  Magic.  Pure magic.  A very large Bullseye pufferfish swam below us like a football with fins.  We were allowed to enter the channel between the two rocks, where the depth is about 60 feet. It is here that it is rumored that hammerhead shark lurk.  We were unable to confirm or deny that rumor.  (No sightings.)   The light filtered down and highlighted thousands of tiny, almost transparent fishes. It was very choppy waters here, so we didn’t swim the whole distance. (While I describe difficult seas on this trip, they are manageable.  I don’t wish to scare you off—just provide information.  It was amazing to me how the surface could be so rough, but if I put my face down in the water and just relaxed, the waves just rocked me along with them.  And my snorkel never got sea water splashed into it.  Breathing was never a problem.  But sometimes getting from place to place was more work, that was for sure!)

After another lovely meal, we observed a manta ray from the boat, and a breathtaking sunset.  We were building up to a Supermoon, and with all the extra light we got an extraordinarily spectacular view of the islands, the shimmering sea and the frigate birds riding the air current of the boat. 

We traveled to town on San Cristobal, to deliver our guide, Tommy, and pick up another.  His contract was up.  It gave us a chance to grab a little shopping, as most of our stops are completely uninhabited!   The main street is lined with little shops offering a variety of interesting souvenirs.  A few postcards, a t-shirt and an old-fashioned style Galapagos map I used as an art piece from the trip!  To see other maps I painted on the last voyage, click here. And here.

More great photos in the album!
 

Floreana had unique features.  There was a giant, gnarly mangrove tree that dominated the crescent shaped shoreline.  Erosion had made a secondary type of cliff, where a Blue footed booby and giant chick sat together and groomed.   This beach had the green sand caused by the olivine crystals, while a beach on the other side of the island got different currents, and was fed white sand.  And in the middle, a lake with flamingos!  For art from my last trip, click here.  

 I would guess we saw 40 or so.  One flew in, awkwardly flapping, with feet flying out behind him.  He was greeted with noisy honks.  We could see in the distance a few on nests. A black winged stilt milled about in the mud.  The lake area really showed the contrasting landscape—the shimmering water lined with black lava and shocking green mangroves, transitioning to dry grasses and white tree bark, and brown rock. 

As we traversed inland, we discovered several painted locusts, a flamboyant little insect that exists nowhere else.  Here Julian also pointed out the Palo Santo trees, weeping fragrance.  Moss and neon green lichen grows on its branches.  It is related to frankincense and myrrh.  The name Palo Santo means “wood of the saints” and is burned often as incense in churches. 

We also spied some Smooth-billed Anis, little black birds with prominent beaks that are not indigenous to the islands.  Reaching the white sandy beach, stingrays were spotted, swimming in the shallows.  As I ventured closer, one grazed my foot! 

We spotted a Tiger snake eel on the sand, mouth wide. 

This is how I know I could never be a true Nat Geo photographer…apparently I am not able to let nature take its course.  I put it back into the water.  It may still die, but it won’t be from me leaving it gasping on the beach! 

A Yellow-crowned night heron scouted for food over the volcanic rocks. 

My inspiration for today.

 We saw a pair of Sally Lightfoot crab, one gripping the other by the claws, and escorting it away. 

Our guide could only guess if it was a love interest, or dinner.  Someone spotted a Blue Lobster in the surf.  Ghost crabs had left their signature, little balls of sand they filtered for food, snaking out from a central hole.

Champion Island, Snorkeling
We toured around the Floreana, passing a set of volcanic rocks called Devil’s Crown (aptly named, for its eerie appearance.)  The snorkeling was fantastic at Champion Island.  Along with different starfish, sea lions, and more Green turtles, there was a craggy outcrop that white tipped reef sharks were hanging out under.   Jillian took my GoPro and dove down to get some shots.  Three came swimming out of the crevice and perused the reef in their un-hurried, smooth manner.  It’s good to be at the top of the food chain.  Clear waters, beautiful light, not too cold.  A lot of colorful King Angelfish.  Daily, the crew provides snacks and drinks after snorkeling, but today was the best.  They put cinnamon in their hot chocolate!
 
Post office bay
Today I participated in one of the oldest existing post office traditions.  Whaling Captain James Colnett apparently started it by placing a wooden post barrel here in 1793.  The idea was that passing ships would sort through the left mail and deliver ones that were addressed to places on their routes.  At the time, a whaling vessel would be out, typically, for two years, so mail was a valuable resource.  Thousands of ships have participated in this system over the years, and now tourists also join in. 

We sifted through Ziplock bags full of people’s comments and observations about the islands, looking for addresses near our own.  One postcard said, “Spending time in these islands helps to understand what is important, what is useful, and what is noise.  As our guide let us know on day one, it’s the simple things that make the biggest difference.  Keep me or send me somewhere randomly.” There were some that said ‘for pick-up only’, obviously meant to draw a certain person to the islands.  Appreciation for the islands was palatable with each handwritten entry.  Obviously, visitors cherish this place.  We walked back to the ocean, now painfully aware that this was our last full day here.

But there was still much left to see!  On the narrow beach were shorebirds—black winged stilts, semipalmated plovers and sandpipers.  Around the corner was, of all things, a soccer game!  The crews meet up for a match, this time from the National Geographic boat that was on the same itinerary we were.  Here we had our last snorkel.  Bittersweet.  We were rewarded with a few new species of fish to add to our list.  We had one last sea lion dance with a young female.  Jaime threw rocks and she caught them! 

Up on the top deck, enjoying our last sunset, we reviewed the week’s sightings.  We each had our own animal list.  Some, we were overjoyed to note, we had viewed in abundance.  Others, we were unable to check off.  I sighed, and just chalked it up to the unpredictability of nature.  Not five minutes later, after we had fallen into a satisfied silence, I started laughing.  Coming towards us, was another item on our list.  A pod of dolphins!  We watched them approach, and then they disappeared.  Jaime and I decided to check the front deck to see if they were using the boat to draft from, and they were!  I ran up the steps and grabbed everyone, and we leaned over the edge and just enjoyed them. 

We could actually hear them whistling to each other, and the air escaping their blowholes as they would exhale and inhale.  One leapt and splashed a few guests!  We had quite a while to appreciate the magic of that moment.  They finally peeled off and we returned to the top deck, where the frigates had landed on the rails and roof and were catching a ride. It was fun to listen to them bark and nag each other, vying for space. 

The crew, dressed in their finest, met us for a drink and a final farewell.
 

Up early to pack and go to Santa Cruz island, to visit the Charles Darwin Center.  The bus stopped right by the mosaic garden, (click here for photos and art from this area) so we ducked in for two minutes.  Then we looked in on the different land tortoises. 

One memorable moment was when two female saddlebacks squared off, heads stretched to their fullest height, in a display over the male, Diego.  They say he is at least 100 years old, but to them he was quite a catch!  The land iguanas lounged, their yellow and orange skin in various stages of shedding.  They reminded me of a patchwork quilt. 

The visitor’s center is still closed for construction.  Driving through town, it was interesting to watch the hustle and bustle of small town life.  Island dogs abound.  Murals cover many walls, which the artist in me appreciated.  We drove over the highlands, and were able to spot several wild land tortoises in the fields!  The highlands are so green and lush, with many exotic flowers blooming.  They beg more exploring, but, alas, we are out of time….

We said our goodbyes at the airport, and went our separate ways.  Jaime and I were fortunate enough to view the Cotopaxi volcano that has been steaming and grumbling outside Quito, on our flight back into the city! 

Our Adventure Life driver greeted us at baggage claim, and we went back to our lovely hotel. The next morning it was up early to the airport for home.

Not everything about travel is fun.  There are certain inherent risks—to life, limb, property and schedule.  Some people glamorize and romanticize travel to the point that when it doesn’t go care-free, it is a disaster.  It is horrible.  It is the end of the world.  People that are normally level-headed, friendly adults throw toddler-type tantrums when their experience doesn’t match the brochure.  Luckily, Jaime and I are not that way.  Occasionally, there is an extra price to pay to go off on adventures.  This time, it was paid by a 14 hour journey turning into a 24 hour journey, as a severely delayed flight had us miss our next connection.  We had to change carriers, which meant running from terminal 3 to terminal 1 at LAX, only to arrive at the gate, breathless…to be told that the new flight we were on was delayed two more hours!  Our luggage was eventually found and returned to us after we had settled back at home.  It is in those times that I have to just sit back, and remind myself of all the incredible experiences that traveling brings me.  All of the memories and inspirations...

Now, I found the BEST TRAVEL TIP EVER for getting through customs back into the United States. It works on a smartphone.  Check to see if the airport you are flying into uses the Mobile Passport App.  (Miami does.)  I downloaded it onto my phone prior to travel.  Then, when I landed on American soil, as people were gathering their bags and waiting to deplane, I launched the app.  I answered all the custom questions there instead of on the form they hand out, and followed the directions to take a selfie.  They then gave me a receipt on my phone.  When I deplaned, instead of getting in that long, ol’ line with the hundred other people, I found a line that said Mobile Passport App.  There was NO ONE in front of me!!!!  They looked at my passport and scanned that receipt.  I picked up my luggage.  I found the Mobile Passport App sign again, bypassed all the people in the other lines, and went to that line. Two people in front of me.  They checked my phone again and I WAS DONE.

I would guess that saved Jaime and I at least an hour of just standing in lines.  Maybe more.  It’s free and painless.


 
 

I wanted to give potential travelers my observations, having had the unique opportunity to go to the Galapagos at two different times of year, on two different boats, with two different itineraries.  What would I pick, knowing what I know?  Let me say right off the bat—if either of these trips had been my only trip, I would be THRILLED.  I don’t think there is a ‘bad’ time to go, or a ‘bad’ itinerary to pick.  I just want to emphasize that.  These are just observations, some of it is nit picking, but it is what I would tell a friend if they were deciding to go to the islands.

I also must make a disclaimer.  I went to the Galapagos in an El Niño year.  Both tour guides informed us that what we were seeing in terms of weather wasn’t necessarily normal.  I asked one guide when he would recommend going and he said July, as it is in between seasons and offers the best of both.  On the equator, it isn’t the changing path of the sun that determines Spring, Summer, etc.  Instead it is sea water temperatures, affected by the currents, resulting in two seasons.  The Trade winds slacken, allowing some currents to lose force, and others to strengthen. In an El Niño year (every 2-12 years), the Trade winds actually reverse direction, allowing a warm, nutrient-void current to flood the islands.  Which affects weather.  So I would advise you to do your own homework about when to go—I will report that the October trip was much more pleasant weather-wise than the May trip was for me.  The water temperature was colder in October, but not too prohibitive.  But, again, not typical for other years.  El Niño was also the reason why I returned to the islands so quickly.  My research showed that a strong El Niño has very negative effects to any animal that relies on the sea to survive.  (It is good for land animals.  One strong El Niño year reported rain for almost 9 months straight.  That’s a lot of moisture for vegetation. It is also a soggy vacation…)  A different story for sea life.  The water temps rise, the algae dies, the fish die, the sea lions die, the iguanas die…you get the idea.  At the time of this writing, the conditions so far this fall have not been horrific.  But I had one year to take advantage of my winnings, and I felt the longer I waited, the more likely it would be I would observe some of these negative results.  I also wanted to see what the islands were like in a different time of year than my first trip.  So I was back on the plane in under a month of being announced the winner!

Let’s talk boats.  My first trip was aboard the Guantanamera, described as a Motor Yacht, tourist class. Click here for description and photos.  I would call this a basic, frills-free boat.  The Millennium is described as a Catamaran, first class.  Information can be found here.   I’m not going to lie—boat life was much  more comfortable here!  This boat was more spacious, and larger by far.  It had one more entire deck on it than the Guantanamera.  The food was better on Millennium, but both were fine.  The individual rooms were bigger—we had bunk beds in one and twin beds side by side, with room in between to walk in the other.  One had a cubby for some items, the other had a full armoire.  The Millennium wasn’t damp, or smelly with engine fumes like the Guantanamera.  (Some of that may have been because it was less humid when I was on that one.)  The first class ship's beds were more comfortable.  I was hoping it would be smoother sailing, as the hull is built differently, but both boats tossed me around just the same.  The motor noise was obnoxious on both.  Also the same?  Amazing, cooperative, energetic crews.  Awesome snorkeling.

 Wild locations.  Two dinghies to transport you to awaiting adventures. Clean and properly maintained.  Get my point?  This decision is based upon your personality, preferences, and budget.  For me, dollar for dollar, I would pick the more basic boat if I was trading that for more days on the islands.  I really spent very little time in the rooms.  If you can afford the longer tour on the better boat, by all means!  Go that route!  (Classification of Galapagos ships is a tricky thing, and it depends on the date of information given, etc.  There is a great article on it here, for more information.)

Now on to itineraries.  The Northwest trip I took was 8 days, the Eastern route was 6.  If I were to advise someone on which route to take, I would say the Northwestern.  I believe the Northwestern provides a bigger variety of islands…from 80 year old pahoehoe lava flows at Sullivan Bay to the highland rainforest on Isabela.  I also think the wildlife is more abundant on the NW route, at least for the times of year I was there.  Keep in mind that some animals are only available on certain islands, and at certain times.  You can only see albatross on the Eastern itinerary, and for a few months they aren’t there, either!  And there is the human element on the Eastern, of Post Office bay. 

Also, if you are concerned about sleeping, the Eastern route doesn’t cover as much distance between islands, so there is less night travel.  Less seasickness, if that is a problem you contend with.  Again, personally, I would endure 8 hours of rough seas all night in order to experience Genovesa.  But it all depends on your tastes and needs.

Plus and minuses to both, but I would reject neither.  Either itinerary will be a trip of a lifetime.
 

Snorkel sightings! (Disclaimer:  Jaime and I would sit down with a Galapagos Marine Species book on board the ship and, from memory, identify what we saw.  While we tried to be accurate, there may be some that are mis-remembered!  We did the best we could!)  20-25% of the fish here are endemic, meaning they are ONLY here.  There are over 500 species of fish in the Galapagos. 

Galapagos Sea lions, Green sea turtles, Black tipped reef shark, White tipped reef shark, King Angelfish, Barracuda, Black striped Salema,  Leather Bass, Pacific Mutton Hamlet, Triggerfish, Green Jack (or Steel Pumpano?), Juvenile White Salinas, Panamic Graspy Cabrilla,  Spotfin Burrfish (or Balloonfish?)

Mullets, Mexican Hogfish, Gold and Blue snappers, Grey Threadfin Bass, Burrito Grunts, Blue lobster, Pacific Creole Fish, Reef Cornetfish,  Galapagos and Bullseye pufferfish.  In the Wrasse group: Cortez Rainbow, Spinster.  Surgeonfish:  Yellowtail, Golden Rim, and Razor.  Parrotfish: Blue Chinned, Azure. 

Blenny: Panamic Fanged, Throatspotted, and Sabertooth.  Damselfish: Giant, Galapagos Ringtail.  Hawkfish: Giant, Longnosed, Hieroglyphic, and Coral.  Sea Urchins: Needle, Green, White, Pencil.  Sea stars:  Smooth, Pyramid, Chocolate Chip.  We spotted two Island Major damselfish actually picking up a sea star and throwing it over the edge of their turf!

Being it is a cold water environment; don’t expect to see tons of coral, like you might in tropical waters.  They are more of a warm water creature.  Some anemones, and algaes.  Mostly “just” awesome wildlife!

 More photos in the album!

In Galapagos, there is this anticipation…this air of expectant wonder, that around every corner awaits something magnificent…and it is waiting.  I have been to many parts of the world and seen many amazing natural wonders.  But here…it is almost like Mother Nature is enjoying showing off just as much as we are enjoying the view.  Like, she has her arm around my shoulder, and thrusts me in front of this volcanic masterpiece, the sea misting me with a delightful soft spray, and I hear her whisper, “See??? Isn’t that cool?!?”

And before I can even recover she spins me around and says, “Wait, that’s nothing!  Watch this!” And dolphins appear on the horizon, hurrying over so that I can listen to their whistles and clap with delight as they twist and turn in front of our boat.  In other places of the world, I felt like a lucky observer, whose presence is not acknowledged.  Here I feel like an honored guest, a participant in this land of wild things.  I ran across this quote from Hafiz and it has never resonated with me more than here:  “This place where you are right now, God circled on a map for you.”  

 The creatures seem to have an interest in me.  To talk to a little Galapagos flycatcher (because I am just weird like that) and have it hop to a closer branch and tilt its head towards me, as if to say, “Tell me more!”… to have a sea lion do cartwheels two feet from me when it could do it two miles from me if it so wished…I am overwhelmed. It makes me never want to close my eyes, never want to turn away, never want to leave. 

I admit, Galapagos has gotten under my skin.  Even before I left its beaches, I was grasping for ways to return.  I actually asked Julian what it takes to be a Naturalist Guide here.  Not only do you have to be an Ecuadorian, you have to be a native of Galapagos.  The training is every ten years, and the year he applied, so did 1000 other people.  They accepted 60 into the program.  While I am disappointed, there is safety in this knowledge.  It prevents me from quitting my life in the States and be lost forever to the rock of a boat and the whistling cry of a Nasca booby. (Barring the reality that my husband’s career is here, all my family and friends…the language barriers…. )  I won’t be the brunt of juicy rumors, on how Staci lost her mind and gave up her life for the allure of sea lion escapades. 

So I’m left with memories and stories to tell the best I can.  It is a tough task, in a way.  It’s hard to describe a place like Galapagos.  Sometimes, I myself, after two visits, find it difficult to believe it even exists.  The Archipelago has so many unique and amazing attributes, that it feels, on the retelling—a lie.  How do you tell someone about a place in which half the birds, a third of the plants, and 90% of the reptiles exist nowhere else on earth? I find English to be lacking in enough descriptive terms, or maybe it is just my limited skill at turning a phrase.

 As an artist, I feel at a loss as well.  While the place has given me a lifetime of subjects to paint, and I will…my brush can’t quite paint what it is like to be there.  You reading this blog, seeing the photos and the art and hearing the stories…you are being robbed of the truth of it.  The truth is that the Galapagos Islands are indescribable.   They’re not reproducible.  There is no articulation that can substitute experiencing them for yourselves.  I’ve done my best, in words, and pixels and paint.  And all I can hope is that my efforts here will light a fire under you.   Make arrangements, make sacrifices, make a savings account.  Do your homework, buy a snorkel, and a plane ticket.  Experience your own stories to tell. Go.

 

If you have enjoyed my art here, check back.  I will add more as I complete them.  I plan to try my hand at video editing, and will add videos of this trip if I can sort that out!  Also, from the last voyage, I did art with the Galapagos Finch, the Pelican, Vermillion Flycatcher, and Sea Turtles, if you care to click!

 You can also subscribe to my other blog, Collidescopes, to see what else I am doing. 
Today's inspiration is a collage and acrylic painting using the map I purchased on San Cristobal.

Thanks for sharing this journey with me, and again, a humble thank you for your votes.  I am still overwhelmed.
And oh-my-gosh I can never express in MERE WORDS my gratitude at Adventure Life...my first trip was once-in-a-lifetime, with their help and direction...then they put on this contest, and sent me HERE!  With wonderful service and the finest care!  Who gets two adventures in one life, let alone one year?  I can never express it properly.
Thank you.
Staci

 

I drew this Nasca Booby from Suarez Point, Espanola.  The males will choose a pebble or shell to present to the females as a gift...apparently this one wanted to be prepared.

Prismacolor pencil on tinted paper

Hope you like it!
 

I drew this little guy that I saw on Suarez Point, Espanola island.

This was done on tinted paper with Prismacolor pencils.

Hope you enjoy it!  For other artwork not Galapagos-related, check out my blog, Collidescopes!
 

Just wanted to share this colored pencil piece I did on black paper!

A friendly Galapagos Sea Lion

 

I just wanted to share this sea turtle painting I just finished. 

Enjoy!
For more of my art that isn't Galapagos-related, visit my blog!