I’m a bit of a history nerd. I devour biographies and historical miniseries and have been known to spend hours pouring over museum exhibits. While I knew that much of the Arctic’s early years were rooted in the whaling industry, I was surprised to learn that whaling was just the tip of a long and fascinating history of Svalbard. I was even more surprised when I got to experience so much of it for myself.
Much of Svalbard’s coastline is dotted with its past: The mast to which Amundson moored the airship Norge prior to becoming the first man to reach the North Pole still stands in Ny Alesund. Beluga bones frame the beaches of Bamsebu and an old whaling station stands eerily by. Walrus bones fringe the tundra at Kapp Lee. Beached and wooden ships lie in wait for the ghosts of sailors past at Skansbukta, and a rusting train overlooks the remains of Camp Mansfield - the town which used to bear its name.
One of my favorite historical sites, however, was found at Signehamna. Already having identified myself as a history nerd, it’s important to know that World War II holds my particular interest. I never imagined that the Second World War would have left its mark on Svalbard, but the realm of fighting stretched even to the most remote of its shores. Built behind a hill and tucked away from sight, Signehamna, a weather station originally erected by the Germans, has been reduced to nothing more than a pile of rubble: rusted barrels, rubber boots, and trunks long beyond repair.
Bombed by the Norwegians upon its discovery, the remains of the station were abandoned by its survivors and left to quietly rust away. While much of the site has been looted over the years, what remains is a somber reminder that history is waiting to present itself to anyone willing to find it, even in the most remote corners of the earth.
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
2 days ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.