Costa Rica Trip: Island Time

Wew were able to leave 14 hrs early to get out of Boston before the big snowstorm. Was nice to not have to wake up at 3am to get to the airport.

We had an easy morning and got to the Charlotte Airport in plenty of time. Today is the dreaded travel day of sitting and waiting. The flight was an easy 4 hours. We were able to get a taxi at the airport easily and headed to our San Jose pitstop – LeBergerac hotel. Excellent service. Quickly settled in and out to an authentic Costa Rican meal at Nuestra Tierra. Huge meals were scrumptious.

So we knew up front to expect a different perspective on time. It was so wonderful to have someone pick us up (at all our transitions) and not have to coordinate or worry about it on our own. At 7:30 we were picked up by a van taxi for a quick ride through the city to a small airport. There we checked in for our short 1 hour flight to Palma Sur. I don't fly in little prop planes often. But along the trip I kept thinking that everything was better than a ride at Disney, including the floating feeling of bumpiness over the mountain range first for a quick stop at Quepos then to our destination. We were met at the tiny airport by the next leg of the adventure. About a 20 minute way for another group and we were on our way for a quick 20-30 minute ride to Sierpa. Beautiful going through rural area of really tall palm trees into a tiny town. Once we arrived at Sierpa we had another 45 minute wait as the boat 'driver' packed his vessel with our luggage and supplies for the lodge. What was supposed to be an hour boat ride ended up more like almost two. But I think we went the scenic route. The boat captain spoke no english but was good at spotting wildlife along the way - a crocodile bathing, birds, a snake somewhere in a tree that I still couldn't see. The french couple could interpret a little bit about what he was saying. The river was smooth. He told us that when the tide is low the water comes from the ocean bringing debri. When the tide is high the water flows to the ocean. As the river widened I wondered whether some of the rugged docks were our destination. All of a sudden we hit a transition into the Pacific Ocean. Donning our lifejackets now we greeted the rough pacific with glee. The rocks of lava, I'd imagine this is what Hawaii might be like. Finally we entered a cove and slowed down to a hum. Boats were congregating in a little area by lava rocks. There we pulled in and stepped out to our final destination (Marenco Lodge) into the warm waters of the pacific. Hello Pacific Ocean, I don't think we've met like this ever before. Warmly greeted by Diego who we followed up a very steep hill, luckily paved/stepped with rocks. Our bags were loaded into a trailor on the back of a small tractor and magically transported to our bungalow out of sight. Have we landed on Fantasy Island?? Palm trees galore. Huge bamboo lined the walk up the hill. After about 15 minutes in the newly cherished heat and humidity we made it to the main lodge and dining area. People there enjoying lunch already and happily gazing at the local birds in the trees. We were greeted by very yummy juice and lunch. Afterwards the manager reviewed all of the logistics with us and we were shown our bungalow. I think we got the best room in the house. Overlooking the cove on the pacific where we had been let out of the boat. Enough room for the four of us, and our house pet 'Fred' the yellow and black salamander hanging out on the wall of the bathroom. We all decided to get down to the beach. A hike down the hill and over to an area where a few other guests had congregated. The pacific water was warm like a bath. It was sensational especially having just left winter and a snowstorm behind. We hadn't thought about the hike back up the hill but it was worth it. Relaxing was in order. Post beach exploration, I took my book to the dining lodge where I sat until dinner at 7. There were quite a few other guests so we were able to meet some interesting new people. And a large group arrived shortly after we did. Dinner was served family style. The lodge was filled with chatter and laughter. The generator kept the electricity on for only a few hours. After dinner, I decided to stay a little while longer to read while the other 3 in my group got settled. I made it back to the room around 10 when lights went out. Definitely fantasy island. I can hear tattoo now.

Today was a transition day between the two legs of our trip. We had to be packed, leaving our bags for the staff to take down to the bottom of the hill. This was a return of the trip in – boat ride, van ride, plane, van, back to hotel in San Jose. But a surprise awaited us! Someone else at the lodge had mentioned mangroves but we hadn't seen them on the ride in. The first boat ride was supposed to take an hour but took almost two (island time). So the ride back we were met with a surprise when we turned quickly and found ourselves in this amazing mangrove with roots everywhere... Better than a disney jungle cruise any day! We were famished by our journey by the time we got back to San Jose, same hotel, and settled into our new rooms. Decided to go back to the same restaurant as Sunday since it was so close. A 24 hour restaurant, early afternoon it was slammed. I ordered my meal and then ordered rice pudding - primero. "First?" the waiter was confused? Si. So I knew I could eat something quickly. That evening we had to repack for the next leg of the trip.

Today is the day we'd all pined for – whitewater rafting on the Pacuare for the full day! Words cannot describe this experience. I have been waiting for this day for so long and planning this trip finally coming to fruition. Our guide from the day coming in had to raft others out yesterday so we got a new guide - Gustavo. Although not as funny/entertaining, Gustavo was experience, knowledgeable and walked us through each rapid beforehand. Asked later he said this was his favorite river to raft out of all of them (originally from Argentina and works the circuit including the states). Mostly because the river changes every day, year round. There were six boats plus our gear. On one of the early rapids our boat was one of the first down. I looked behind me and realized that all the other boats went down a different route. That's when I realized our guide was taking us through the more complex parts of the river. Some of the other boats included most people who'd never been on a river before, so I was grateful for my limited experience. Not being the rainy season the Pacuare was a little shallow but that also allowed us to see the terrain. We got stuck on rocks on occasion but it was all in good fun. A stop at an amazing waterfall and then a big group lunch. We were at a point on the river were there were no roads in or out. Complete jungle. Indigenous indians somewhere within. On the final leg, our group rearranged our order and we were much more in synch. On the second to the last rapid all the harping on safety was needed. I'm not sure what happened, but maybe we hit a rock. My friend in front of me started to slip out sideways. I couldn't reach her and the other two shifted their weight and we all went tumbling. At the top of the rapid in shallow water I immediately hit rocks and had difficulty turning my body so that my feet were first. Finally letting go of the oar, I was able to get myself so that my feet could brace the impact of the rapidly approaching large wall. All the while holding my nose and keeping my eyes closed under water. Came up twice and got pummeled through to the end where I came up surrounded by boats. We were all rescued quickly. It took the wind out of us. The next rapid the other boat of our new friends 3 fell out at the bottom in calm water but nothing as dramatic. Our fun was slowly coming to an end. The river was becoming more flat. At the take out we were able to dry and change before getting in a van for a three hour drive back to San Jose. Where do I sign up to do this again??!