Pura Vida Costa Rica

Day 1 - My husband John and I, grateful to leave two feet of snow behind in Michigan, sip thick, dark Costa Rican coffee with our good friends, Susan and John Campbell from Scotland at Hotel Le Bergerac in San Jose. The outside enclosed patio surrounds us with lush foliage, hibiscus, orchids, and azaleas as we feast on fresh tropical fruit juice, omelets, crescent rolls, and gallo pinto, a Costa Rican dish of rice and beans. At Mercado Central in downtown San Jose, venders sell handmade crafts, clothing and artwork. Carved masks, pottery, and framed painted feathers depicting toucans were offered as we strolled the tent lined block of stalls. The streets are filled with ticos (locals) and tourists, all sidestepping the busy traffic backing up at intersections. We exchange dollars for the local currency, and feel like millionaires as we handle thousands of colons; roughly 500 colons equal 1 dollar. 1000 colons or two dollars, will buy a cervecas, a fair price for a bottle of local Imperial beer. We are awestruck by the National Theatre, one of the most impressive buildings in the city. Built in 1897 the interior is decorated with Italian marble, mahogany furniture, crystal chandeliers, statues, and gold-leaf murals. The majestic artwork includes Costa Rica’s most famous painting, Una Alegoria depicting the coffee harvest. The painting is reproduced on the 5,000 colon bank note. Our cute, dark eyed guide, Alexandrea, herself an aspiring actress, entertains us with a ghost story of an opera singer who committed suicide on the stage. “All real theatres,” she tells us, “must be haunted by a ghost!” Evening finds us in the darkly lit, smoke filled atmosphere of The Jazz Café, where the grilled fish is excellent, served with rice and beans of course! We sip Imperial beer and wait for the band to begin. The live music is sultry and captivating, accompanying two authentically costumed women who enchant us with flamenco dancing

Day 2 – Heading for the Pacuare River, Exploradores Outdoors van traverses mountainous, winding roads to reach our whitewater rafting destination. Our guide, David, explains safety precautions when rafting this class III/IV river during the 18 mile trip, a 41/2 hour ride. Susan and I are nervous, unlike most of the others who look to be half our age, and we are relieved that the head honcho, David, will be our own personal guide downriver. The rafts are self bailing, all of us are expected to paddle, and we quickly master David’s instructions, especially the part about crouching down in the raft when we hit the rough spots! Our six man raft enters the water along with several others, and David maneuvers the rapids with ease, all of us paddling as he calls out orders, “Forward!” “Right back!” “Paddle hard!” A particularly difficult patch of rapids manages to snare another raft of Mexican tourists who struggle to get free. We witness one of the other guides fall out and swim toward his raft to be hauled in by the passengers, laughing that he is the one to tumble overboard. We relax and enjoy the beautiful rainforest surrounding the Pacuare River banks. “Pura vida,” we are told, “Pure life,” a Costa Rican expression that describes our feelings as we float down the river. Hawks, white egrets, grey herons, and bare-throated tiger heron are identified. Pulling into shore, David spots poison dart frogs, and scoops up one of the tiny red frogs with blue legs. After replacing the frog to its muddy home, he thoroughly washes his hands in the water, explaining that handling this frog with an open cut can be dangerous since the poison is on the frog’s skin. We pass camp sites used by overnight rafters and view primitive dwellings built of wood and palm leaves by the local tribes. Indigenous women scrub their laundry on rocks in a shallow section of the river. No roads access this area and supplies must be rafted in we are told. Indians in kayaks accompany us on the trip, sometimes stopping to take our picture or help dislodge a raft when it gets hung up on the rocks. A light rain begins to fall as we finish the last hour of our paddle downriver. This may be the dry season, but we learn that some rain is to be expected nearly every day in Costa Rica. Grateful for a hot shower, we relax at the Guayabo Lodge with gin and tonics before dinner, recounting our adventures on the river as we admire the exquisite gardens set off by towering mountains in the setting sun.

Day 3 – Guayabo Lodge is set high on the edge of Turrialba volcano, shrouded in clouds during our two day stay. Viewed from our balcony, the early morning sun spreads pink and orange shafts of light through the clouds, illuminating the manicured gardens of the lodge; little blinking lights of houses in the valley below, and cows grazing on the rolling hills, all framed with the misty mountains. Over a sumptuous breakfast that includes three varieties of papaya, I remark to John Campbell that this setting reminds me of Scotland and he agrees. Today’s adventure starts with a biking tour of CATIE, a world renowned agricultural research center that includes the Tropical Botanical Garden. We aim our binoculars on yellow tailed flycatchers, kiskadees, and a golden-hooded tanager bird of brilliant blue. We sample some of the local fruits in the garden and admire the array of tropical plants including many varieties of palms. On bikes, we pass through fields of coffee and cacao, stopping to taste and learn about the varieties being grown and studied on the farms here. The CATIE Botanical Garden serves as a laboratory for students and scientists as well as an educational site to promote conservation, sustainable use and protection of Costa Rica’s natural resources. Leaving the paved roads, our bikes travel a rocky, dusty dirt road through the sugar cane fields where we pause to bite into a stalk of cane that our guide cuts for us. After a delicious lunch of spicy chicken, rice, refried beans, and salad at a local restaurant, our guide next takes us to Guayabo National Park, Costa Rica’s most important archeological site. The one hour drive follows a route where earthquakes have collapsed sections of the road. The uneven pavement has been patched and we see steep drop-offs where goats and cows graze as the van dodges pedestrians, dogs, oncoming trucks, and tourist busses. Locals are worried because of the recent increase in volcanic activity. There are 11 to 12 volcanoes in the immediate area and 119 altogether in Costa Rica. At Guayabo National Monument we are led uphill through another enchanting rainforest where the park guide identifies a sloth, toucans, leaf-cutter ants, flowers, and butterflies. We are shown open grave sites, stone aqueducts, cobbled roads, mounds, walls, and petroglyphs dating back over 3000 years.

Day 4 –Another hair-raising drive up and around Turrialba Volcano, its peak invisible in the clouds, brings us to a valley overlooking Cartago, the original capital of Costa Rica until 1823. Having suffered from two devastating earthquakes in 1841 and 1910, the town once again bustles with traffic, tourists, and a large local market which we pass. The road continues upward with more winding curves where busses and trucks pass each other, ignoring the double yellow lines. Thinking the drive couldn’t get any more dangerous, heavy fog develops in the upper elevations where the air grows colder. We pass several ambulances and other emergency vehicles pulled over to the side, obviously the site of a recent accident but no crash is visible, just men rappelling over a cliff to investigate or remove bodies from the wreckage that must be visible below our view. We vow never to drive in Costa Rica and are again thankful for our safety conscious driver. Savegre Hotel, our next destination for two nights, is nestled deep in a cloud forest where the ecosystem supports a large number of mammals, insects, amphibians, plants and colorful birds like the Resplendent Quetzal. The Savegre Reserve, 80% of which is made up of virgin forest, is a living research laboratory by institutions from around the world. As we check in to the lodge, we pause to admire the many varieties of hummingbirds that whiz past us, lighting on feeders, bougainvillea and hibiscus bushes. The grounds are magnificent with giant cannas, hydrangeas, yellow daisy-like flowers on overhanging arbors that arch over the paths leading to the quaint cottage accommodations. Our rooms have fireplaces which we will need at night in the cool mountain air. Dinner served buffet style is lavish in this remote setting and includes local grilled trout, fried plantains, and sumptuous desserts.

Day 5 –We set off early in the cool morning wearing fleece and are quickly rewarded with our first sighting, the acorn woodpecker, peeking out of a telephone pole. Merinos, our guide, leads us to a wild avocado tree, sets up his scope, and assures us that the quetzal, a bird with bright red and green feathers, will appear. Sure enough, he spots a female and excitedly calls, “Cindy, Cindy, come see!” as he gestures to his scope for a closer view. Soon more birds gather in the avocado tree to feed, the green toucanet, the black with blue-billed guan, Costa Rica’s national bird the brown robin, and finally a male quetzal with its magnificent long sloping blue tail feathers. That afternoon we hike along the river bed, passing holding ponds teeming with trout, some leaping out of the water. The trail winds past huge ferns, under bromeliads clinging to the overhead branches, along flowering red passion trees. Hearing the roaring sound of rushing water, we gingerly cross the river on a log stretched across to the other side, hiking another ten minutes to reach the water falls. A bridge spans the river and affords views on each side of the rushing waters cascading over giant boulders.

Day 6 – The best time to spot wildlife is early in the morning so we eagerly set off at 7:00 am, this time on horseback, with our guide, Raul, who speaks no English but knows the steep trail up Cerro de la Muerte, Mountain of Death! The ½ hour ride leads to a clearing where Raul ties up the horses and then gestures for us to follow him for the 45 minute hike up the mountain through jungle-like vegetation resembling the foliage in the movie, Jurassic Park. Unfazed by the high altitude, rugged terrain, and uphill climb, Raul gingerly moves through the ancient trees while we huff and puff behind. Grateful for a break, we stop to admire a pair of quetzals in a giant towering tree. Motioning for us to continue the steep ascent, Raul promises “grande vista!” so we trek on. Our reward is a towering huge oak tree, hundreds of years old and several feet wide at its base, reminiscent of a California redwood. Back down the mountain to our horses, we return to the lodge and our waiting driver, ready to transport us to our next hotel on the Pacific coast. More winding mountain roads lead us gradually downward to warmer temperatures and the Pacific coast, past the “hippy” community of Dominical. Many Americans live and vacation here we learn from our driver, Marcos, though his English is about as good as our lack of Spanish. The Lookout Inn near Ballena Bay is perched on a bluff overlooking a beach in the distance. We are greeted with, “Do you have a reservation?” The young girl at the desk seems surprised at our arrival and we sense that this hotel will be the only down side to an otherwise flawless itinerary. Christine, cousin to the owner and newly in from California, wonders who booked us and scrambles to find us rooms. “The kitchen is closed,” we’re told, but sandwiches are offered and appease us at their open-air bar overlooking the pool. Where is our local guide and promise of an afternoon at the renowned Ventanas beach we wonder? As the day slips by and no sign of the hotel owner, Christine volunteers to take us to the beach herself. We pile into her car and she drops us off about three miles away in a parking lot. We walk about a ¼ mile on a trail cutting through private property, eventually opening up on a small, grey sand beach being pounded by huge waves. At 3:30 pm the skies are overcast and the sands are sparsely populated but we are happy just to be out of a car and on a beach. Ruggedly nestled in a small bay, Ventanas beach also boasts two caves which we investigate before the tide fills them with its roaring surf. After wading along the shore and skirting the many small crabs running underfoot, we notice that other people have deserted the beach. The rainforest of palms and coconut trees edging the sand grow darker as the sun sinks and a light rain begins to fall, so we decide to head back. We are surprised to find that we are locked in by a gate and barbed wire fence, a good hour before our ride is scheduled to return. Scaling a stone wall, the four of us scramble over the enclosure and hike a mile along the busy road to the nearest phone at The Twisted Toucan, a local bar. We’re laughing that this really is an adventure when Christine answers our call to be picked up at the bar. Returning to our hotel we check out the dilapidated pool with crumbling cement and a few lazy bugs swimming the surface. Hot and sweating in the humid air, we decide that the pool is still inviting enough to enjoy. Giant buzzing cicadas and huge grasshoppers that remind us of the insects from Men In Black, entertain us at dinner in the open air restaurant while the local caged parrot whistles and sings, “Hello! Ola!” Our personable waitress, Hannah, charms us with her accented English, lovely smile, and attentive service. Determined to make the best of our stay on the South Pacific coast, we arrange for a zip line tour at the national wildlife refuge, Hacienda Baru, for the following day.

Day 7 – Our driver halts the cab in the road to point out one of Costa Rica’s famed giant blue butterflies, sailing gently overhead before it disappears into the rainforest. At Hacienda Baru, our guides Juan and Juan Carlos, harness us into the gear for zipping through the canopy forest and we hike with 6 others to the first platform, passing a sloth and a toucan on the way. Once again we realize we are probably the oldest people on the tour partaking in what some would consider a dangerous activity. I am nervous, but quickly relax under the careful hands of the guide as my harness is attached to the first zip line. Once attached, the harness allows the rider to sit back with hands positioned on the metal hook apparatus before the guide assists with lift-off. Zipping from one platform high above the tree canopy to another platform is thrilling, even for someone like me who avoids amusement park rides! In all, eight zip lines are traveled by our group between hikes through the rainforest. Returning to Lookout Inn, we finally meet the owner, Kate, a very personable and capable woman in her 40’s who apologizes for the mix-up that greeted us on arrival. Kate fills us in on some of the difficulties running an inn in this part of the country, confessing that six years ago the area lacked electricity, phones, internet, and the unpaved roads were traveled by donkey carts.

Day 8 – Today we board a small bus to join about a dozen others on a snorkel trip to Cano Island We pass through the town of Sierpa and see the biggest “mystery of Costa Rica,” large round stone spheres weighing several thousands of pounds found on Isla de Cano, seven of which have been relocated to the area. The mysterious, ancient stones were removed by the United Fruit Company when it farmed the area with cacao and bananas. Over 300 off the stones were sold or given away for use as lawn ornaments. Today the government is trying to locate and return the stones. The United Fruit Company was kicked out of Costa Rica in the ‘80’s for misusing pesticides and now African palm oil trees line the landscape, providing subsistence for several farmers in a co-op. We board our boat for Cano island, part of the Marino Ballena National Park. To get there, we must cruise Costa Rica’s largest mangrove forest, cut by canals leading out to the Pacific. Our captain of the small boat holding 12 passengers and three crew, expertly guides the boat past the breakers and out to the small island where we don our gear for snorkeling. The tide is in, the current strong, and the warm water is rolling as we jump overboard to snorkel the reef offshore. Visibility is fair and we view the colorful tropical fish. The surge is so strong that Caesar, our guide, insists we stay near him in the water. We see a massive circling school of fish that mesmerize us with their movements. Caesar captures a puffer fish, holding it out to us underwater to view before releasing it. The boat takes us to a beach onshore where the crew prepares lunch. The grey sand beach is being pounded by waves, but some brave souls still swim, snorkel, or surf. Cano Island is a popular place for picnics, scuba, and snorkeling as evidenced by several boats anchored offshore and the large number of people on the beach. Returning back to the mainland, Caesar fulfils his promise to show us a boa constrictor, caimans which look like small crocodiles, and sloths. He differentiates the different types of mangroves, explains how they process the salt water to survive, and the effects of the tide on their environment. Unexpectedly, our boat develops a steering problem, loses power, and then crashes into the mangroves! The crew manage to repair the problem, though twice more the malfunction occurs. With the assistance of a tool kit from another boat, repairs finally allow us to limp back to the dock where we are glad to be out of the swamp before sunset! “Pura vida!” our guide declares as we disembark, laughing at the unexpected adventure we might have had after dark with the crocodiles in the mangroves!

Day 9 – Located further north on the coast near the town of Quepos, Manuel Antonio National Park is our next destination. Boasting golden beaches and many short hiking trails, the park is renowned for its teeming wildlife. Unfortunately the heavily traveled road from Dominical to Quepos is not paved! The ruts, rocks, potholes, and dust stirred up by big trucks for nearly 50 kilometers are a challenge to our driver, who takes nearly two hours to reach Hotel Playa Espadilla, our home for the next three days. The accommodations, just two blocks from the ocean and park entrance, are clean with welcome air conditioning, TV, and plenty of hot water. A crystal clear pool with a swim-up bar and an open air restaurant look promising Checking into our rooms, we are stopped by a loud crashing noise coming from the trees above. Suddenly an 18 inch iguana drops to the ground from a lower branch, looks startled, and then flees into the jungle brush. Three white faced monkeys appear, one swings to another branch. Crash! Another lizard drops! The monkeys and the iguanas are engaged in a battle, dropping leaves on the ground as they scramble for position. We are warned by the staff not to leave anything unattended like a purse, backpack, or camera bag. The monkeys are known to snatch a bag, carry it off to a tree top and examine it for food while the poor tourist cries below, wailing when the bag is finally dropped several feet. Exploring the area on foot, we determine that there are several reasonably priced restaurants nearby and settle on Marlins overlooking the main road across from Playa Espadilla beach. The dinner entrée of whole fried red snapper and fries is delicious with accompanying pico de gallo, guacamole, and coconut flan for dessert.

Day 10 – We discover that the national park is closed on Mondays so my husband and I decide to hike the private reserve located immediately north of our hotel, paying the $2.00 entrance fee to the desk clerk. The 45 minute climb through the rainforest rewards us with a view overlooking Manuel Antonio Park and the beaches below. At 9:00 am, the air is already warm and humid as we begin the descent, following the well marked trails lined with ropes to assist hikers. Very few birds or other wildlife are stirring in the heat except for two other hikers we pass on the trail. At the hotel pool we meet up with our Scottish friends who have spent the morning exploring Playa Espadilla and the vendors displaying their crafts. They recount how the local police set up a road block and forced the vendors to vacate the beach area, enforcing a local ordinance banning the selling of wares so close to the ocean. At the pool we meet some of the local park guides who are enjoying their day off. In broken English and Spanish, we carry on some lively conversation about the wildlife, politics, music, and soccer! We also become fascinated with our bartender, Luis, who is an animated storyteller. He recounts how he recently saved a swimmer who ventured out to far in the surf and then tells us the story of the 1992 mudslides in the area that nearly killed him, his wife and family. Many homes, businesses, and residents were lost, swept away or buried in mud. As beautiful as this country is to us, we learn that it can be deadly during the heavy rainy season when the rivers overflow their banks. “When is that rainy season?” we ask Luis, who tells us that May through October the rain seems to fall nonstop.

Day 11 – The $10.00 entrance fee paid, we enter Manuel Antonio Park when it opens at 7:30 am, selecting a trail that leads toward the ocean, winding through dense jungle where we admire white face and squirrel monkeys, lizards, a coati (a raccoon-like mammal), a mother and baby sloth. Tour groups with their guides gather at Playa Manuel Antonio for a break and we watch as two middle aged couples frolic in the surf. Suddenly, a 6 to 8 foot wave hits the swimmers full on and slams them into the sand. One of the women comes up gasping for air, choking on salt water, obviously caught off-guard by the fierce pounding water. As her husband rescues her, the other couple emerge from the water, the man missing his swimsuit, dragged away by the ferocious wave! His wife runs for a towel as he tries to cover himself, embarrassed and naked in front of dozens of laughing tour groups. Lesson learned: Be sure and bring a change of clothes if you swim in the Costa Rica surf!

Day 12 – Though only 90 miles from San Jose, the van ride back takes 4 hours, once again on winding, steep, narrow highways. We check back into Hotel Le Bergerac for a final evening in San Jose, for tomorrow we all have early flights home. Our hotel boasts some of the finest French cuisine in town so we enjoy the quiet ambience of their charming restaurant for dinner. We are not disappointed and order something different from our recent menus of chicken, seafood and rice. Beef! Served in a wine sauce with lovely French bread, vegetables, and desserts that seem flown in from Paris. A bottle of wine from Chili as we toast our friendship, this beautiful country, and declare, “Pura Vida!” The Costa Rican people were friendly, the food tasty, the scenery magnificent, the flora and fauna spectacular. Adventure Life arranged our transportation which was always on time and safe, booked us into interesting and unique locations with excellent accommodations, and they promised us an itinerary that included adventure! Reflecting on our holiday, we agree that overall, it was a great adventure!