Argentina & Torres del Paine Custom Family Adventure

Today we are picked up by the local tour company, Canal Fun, and join others who have signed up for the hike around Tierra del Fuego National Park followed by a delicious provided picnic lunch (salamis, cheeses, chips, soda, wine, bread, grilled chicken) and a short canoe paddle (would have been longer but for the high winds that day). The day in general was cloudy and windy and, despite being in high summertime for Argentina, we were happy for our layers of fleece and hats, etc! Beautiful exotic plant and bird life - saw a huge woodpecker (which our tour guide tried to tell us was the biggest woodpecker in the world but our North American pileated woodpecker is bigget)! I think it was a Magellanic woodpecker. Tonight we ate at Tierra de Leyendas whose proprietor, Sebastian, was formerly the head chef at the Buenos Aires Marriott. It was superb! Patagonia trout in a creamy butter sauce, local mussels in basil and sesame, a fresh tomato basil pasta for our vegetarian daughter, smooth flan, delicious calafate berry ice cream, wonderful Argentine wine. The food at Tierra de Leyendas is outstanding.

After the delicious and generous breakfast buffet (eggs, meat, waffles, wide assortment of baked goods, fruit, milke, juices, etc.) we had an earlier pickup by Canal Fun for a 3/4 hr ride (including pick up of other participants) along national route #3 (runs the entire length of Argentina, including a hop on a ferry to Tierra del Fuego) to the site of the first ranch established in the area - Haberton Farm. This tour didn't visit the farm premises; instead we suited up in rain pants and life vests to board an inflatable zodiac boat and paddle down an inlet and into the Beagle Channel (tough paddling on this windy day - this is truly an active tour!). We saw wild horses along the way and, in the channel, some sea lions and cormorants. After the 2.hrs of paddling, we switched to a motorized covered boat to head to Martillo Island - the only penguin rookery in the Beagle Channel and a rare chance to see two species of penguins - the more common Magellanic penguins and the more comical Gentoo. The penguin rookery is a Must See if you are in Ushuaia area. Another short boat ride followed to Gable Island for a picnic lunch (similar to yesterday's) and a hike around the island noting the flora and fauna. This evening we ate at a little tea house half way of the mountainside behind Ushuaia - La Cabana. It was very cute with lots souvenir shopping and fancy tea cakes. We had a lovely margherita pizza and also shared a salmon sandwich. Here is where our daughter bought her trip souvenir - a stretched canvas print of downtown Ushuaia in a colorful primitive style.

We were being picked up at noon to go to the airport for our flight to El Calafate and, wanting to squeeze in another activity, we had asked our inn proprietors to arrange for two of us to go horseback riding at a very nearby stable - called variously Centro Hipico or Riding Stable at the End of the World. The riding was spectacular - gentle sure-footed well cared for horses, varying terrain from pasture to hillside to forest to the shores of Beagle Channel, relaxed riding for those who wanted and the ability to trot and canter for us. The owner was friendly and knowledgeable. If you like horseback riding - this is a wonderful stable. Ride length varies from 1 hr to all day. And they made special arrangements with Tierra de Leyendas to have us picked up, on horseback, when the ride was near the inn so we could make our flight. After arrivel in El Calafate we were again met by local guide to transfer to the luxurious boutique hotel we decided to treat ourselves with for one night - the Esplendor. A lovely indoor swimming pool, an excellent friendly and trendy bar, and an excellent restaurant. Note about hotel locations and El Calafate: the town is about 15-20 minutes away from the airport so if you are just passing through, or if you are just staying there before going to the airport the next day - look for lodgings in town or for the few that are on the way to the airport. If you like to be near shopping and restaurant choices, of course find something in town. But if you are staying in El Calafate prior to going to visit Perito Moreno Glaciar, then you might want to choose a hotel on the other side of El Calafate from the airport because that is the way to the Glacier National Park. See Dec 27-29 for info on our hotel.

This morning we were again picked up (so happy to have the custom transfer services from Adventure Life), this time for the bus station and day's ride over the Chilean border to Torres del Paine national park in Chile. On the way we saw rhea, flamingos, guanaco and many birds. If you are going to EcoCamp from El Calafate, be aware that that the commercial bus will drop you off in Puerto Natales, Chile, (about 45-60 minutes past the turn off to EcoCamp), to be met by an EcoCamp representative, followed by a leisurely lunch (ours was at Cafe Indigo), followed by a side trip to Milodon Caves (interesting but not outstanding), on the way to EcoCamp. Our trip took us 11 hours from bus departure to EcoCamp arrival (varies with time it takes at Chilean border). I think you can ask EcoCamp to pick you up at the border and go right to there allowing an earlier arrival. Also there may be private van service available (at higher cost)) from El Calafate that takes even less time. EcoCamp is a luxury wilderness lodge experience and my advice is to maximize your time there and minimize your time traveling. They kept dinner warm for us, gave us a welcome drink, and then we took the short boardwalk back to our Dome Sweet Dome where we sank gratefully into the much praised luxurious fleece sheets for a wonderful sleep. But, be sure and get up in the middle of the night at least once during your stay here - the stars are simply breathtaking! p.s. - We had suite dome #10, a suite with an upstairs loft containing two twin beds - perfect for a family of four (and luxurious for our family of three).

Today we took a bus ride through the park (guanacos, Andean condors, amazingly multicolored blue green mountain lakes), then a boat ride across Lake Pehoe to start our hike to French Valley. Because it was Christmas Day, the last boat back was earlier than usual and so we had to keep up a brisk pace to get to the lovely spot by a mountain river with glacier view where we ate our sandwiches and chocolate bars before heading back. The views were lovely as were the various flowers and plants the guide told us about. Today was the only time we had to get off our bus to cross the narrow bridge into the National Park. What a lark! A fine served dinner followed by a game of cards with some fellow travelers and then back to Dome Sweet Dome.

Today's trek allowed for departure walking right from EcoCamp, past some horses frolicing in another lodge's front lawn, through a field of "mother-in-law" bushes (prickly!), with a stop by a gushing mountain waterfall to fill our bottles. Then continuing on with many bird sightings and a view of a constantly avalanching mountainside - you could often hear the avalance start and then look quickly for the visual! Our lunch stop was at the intensely turquoise Nordenskjold Lake. After lunch everyone had a choice to continue on or return to EcoCamp and we chose the latter. The hike back was lovely and having some leisure time before dinner allowed us to get to know more of our international fellow guests (Belgium, Germany, Brazil, Italy, Spain and U.S.). A convivial happy sour ensued (sour, not hour, because of the complimentary Pisco Sours).

A much shorter bus ride back to El Calafate on this sunny morning, arriving to be greeted by a taxi driver who drove us through El Calafate and another 15 minutes to El Galpon ranch where we were greeted at 2 in the afternoon like we were long lost friends, offered wine and lunch, and oriented to the beautiful layout which includes broad vistas of a bird sanctuary, sheep pasture, and Lago Argentina all from the dining room as well as from guest rooms that had channel views. Then they told us about the included excursions in the package deal that Adventure Life books for us: on any evening (we went on our arrival day) you can go on a guided tour of this working sheep ranch that starts with hot chocolate and pastries followed by a history of the ranch, a herding demonstration (using dogs and horses), a horseback ring race (everyone can try!), a narrated nature/botanical tour of the grounds, then a sheep shearing demonstration, a sit down dinner with an amazing variety of salads, fruits, vegetables, breads, and lamb served five ways (tenderloin, ribs, sausages), followed by a folkloric dance show. All included! A truly wonderful and relaxing way to spend the evening - especially during Argentina's summer when it stayed light out until after 10 pm.

A comfortable bus picked us up (already full of people who had to be picked up much earlier than us because their lodgings were closer into town) and off we went to Argentina's Glacier National Park and the wonderfully laid out network of boardwalks with views of the amazing Perito Moreno Glacier. The viewing area is set right at the point where the glacier almost touches land between too huge run off lakes (one of which is Lake Argentina). Because of this you hear regularly the sound of cannons going off after which you quickly look for the calving of massive pieces of ice falling from the glacier into the water. The glacier is so wide and massive and translucent blue it takes your breath away. A small gift shop, cafe, and grocery store are fun to visit as well. After feasting on this spectacular site for an hour or more, we took the bus down to the boats where we got to go very close to the glacier followed by disembarking to the side, hiking with our guide closer, putting on crampons, and trekking up the side of the glacier. A once in a lifetime experience. And, at the end, a special treat - scotch whiskey on glacier ice! Today's adventure ended with our included dinner at El Galpon that was excellent in every way. Mushroom crepes for our vegetarian, wonderful free range chicken and delicately roasted potatoes, and spectacular bouillabaisse.

Today we partook of the other included excursion which is a horseback ride across the pastures and down to the immense Lake Argentina shore for 1-2 hrs depending in your wishes. We loved it - great horses and guides attuned to your needs (you can take it easy, gallop like the wind, discuss the region, etc.). Thanks Mary Jo! Then, with some sadness at leaving such a special place, we were taken to the El Calafate airport for our flight through Buenos Aires and on to Iguazu Falls. An air traffic delay caused our plane to land almost four hours late in Iguazu (close to midnight) and boy were we glad to see, once again, our Adventure Life local guide waiting there to take us to our hotel!

After awaking to see our first view of the falls from the balcony - breathtaking and the premier reason to stay at the Sheraton - we had a lavish breakfast buffet after which we received a private guided tour through all the walkways of the Iguazu Falls National Park - spectacular views that go on and on and change with every new vista. Definitely take the train ride to the most amazing viewpoint of Devil's Throat falls where just looking will get you delightfully mist-soaked. After doing the walking tour, we had our raft ride up close and personal and right into the falls - a fun drenching and look at the falls from underneath. The raft then gave us a little river tour after which we disembarked for a jeep botanical drive. We spent the afternoon dining and lazing by the pool or in the spa and steam room, depending on personal inclinations. We spent the early evening on our balcony, reading and soaking in the view. In Iguazu the sun went down around 8pm. Then we had an elegantly served dinner (you can choose buffet or order from the menu). We all had a wonderful meal and were more than ready for bed after our active day.

Even though we were to depart this afternoon, Adventure Life recommended one more half day tour - this time leaving Iguazu National Park proper for a look at the city of Puerto Iguazu and a trip into the surrounding forest for a hike (butterflies everywhere) and the best zipline ride we have ever had. The crew and equipment made everything feel completely safe and comfortable. The zipline had 3 sections and the first one was 400 meters long - that's 1/4 of a mile! It was beautiful and thrilling. Try it! After ziplining came the opportunity to rappel down a small cliff next to a waterfall and then swim/wade in a small pool at the bottom. This was not quite as safe feeling! You get completely soaked and at times can't see anything because of being in the spray of the waterfall. But again the guides have your back and everything is safely belayed and those who did it have an experience to talk about. On our ride back to the hotel there was a short stop at a craft vendor on the side of the road which was a nice opportunity to buy some handmade jewelry or carved wooden animals directly from the locals. Back at the Sheraton, even though we had checked out in the morning, we were able to retrieve our bags and use the spa's showers to clean up and change our clothes. We sat in the lovely bar area, ordered a light lunch, and waited for the ride to the airport with a happy satisfied feeling of having had an amazing and wonderful South American Adventure.