First Taste of South America - Ecuador Adventures

I left Missoula, Montana early on a Sunday morning and headed to Atlanta by way of Minneapolis, where I would meet my international flight. It's always hard to get to and from Montana by plane - getting just about anywhere requires at least two connections and a lot of patience. Wherever you might be coming from, though, you will find that almost all of the flights leaving the US for Ecuador will depart later in the day and arrive in Quito or Guayaquil between 10pm and midnight. 

It wouldn't be much of a problem, unless Quito (or Guayaquil) is a jumping-off point for your next adventure. If you are heading to the Amazon or the Galapagos, your flight will depart early in the morning. I was scheduled to head to the Amazon the next day. After getting my bags going through customs, I arrived at the Wyndham Quito Airport hotel - which offers a free shuttle, includes breakfast, and is seriously a 4-minute ride from the airport terminal - at 12:30am. I was delighted to see some beautiful desserts waiting for me! But going to bed past 1am was not my preferred way to prepare for an early morning flight or to set off for my Amazon explorations.

 
If you are using Quito as a stop along your way - think about two nights here so you can begin your main adventure better-rested and ready to hit the ground running - which you will definitely be doing once you touch down in Coca or Baltra! 

My first stop in Ecuador took me to the Amazon basin. Encompassing an enormous portion of the country, specifically I headed to the Yasuni region. Getting here, and just about anywhere else in the Amazon is done most easily by plane. Early this morning it was back to the airport for me - I took the 4 minute shuttle from my hotel back to the terminal where I was greeted by a Sacha Lodge representative who showed me to the VIP check in line and provided some materials to review on the plane. 

It is a 30 minute flight from Quito to Coca (also known as Puerto Francisco de Orellana). You may even see the new airport under construction when you reach the tarmac. Upon arrival, there is a bit of a mad dash to get your luggage, and almost all of the folks on the plane were meeting guides from their respective lodges. It took about a half hour to get my bags - be warned that there is not a bathroom in this very simple airport. Once I got my bag, I found the Sacha representative outside and and hopped into a bus for a 5 minute ride into the city center of Orellana to the "Sacha House" - the welcome center where we would have a snack and briefing for the next leg of our journey. Washrooms and space to stretch your legs are provided while you spend about a half hour here. 

Part 3 of the journey was a motorized canoe ride down the Napo River. On the 1.5 hours ride in the open-air boat, I got my first view of this very different ecosystem. Don't forget a layer for the breeze - in the Amazon, and a lot of other places in Ecuador - layers are key! After many beautiful miles of lush vegetation, we turned off the main river to a small channel where we disembarked our motor canoe for leg 4 of the journey.

Another little pit-stop before we started our first adventure: a 20 minute walk along a raised boardwalk to the even smaller channel set back from the main river. This was my first view of the bright heliconia flowers and active wildlife and a preview of the explorations ahead of us.

The end of the boardwalk brought us to the last leg of our journey: one more canoe ride all the way to the lodge. Sacha guides paddled us along a small canal deeper into the jungle. And then all of a sudden the canal opened up onto a deep, dark tannic lake that is home to eels, piranhas, and caimans. You can enjoy a dip, as long as you stay inside the steel cage!

Getting out of the last canoe, we were met with a refreshing lemonade and shown to our rooms. I had arrived! Next up - lunch, a welcome from the lodge's manager, meeting my group and guides, and then our first excursion together!

Settle in and make yourself at home….

 

The rooms are dispersed through the jungle, set up in pairs of two adjacent rooms (although most do no connect internally). Each has its own porch with hammocks,  and all of the cabins and main building are connected by a series of walkways and some raised boardwalks.
 
Meals are taken in the main lodge building, which has an upstairs library and bar area to relax at the end of the day, and a third-story bird house you can climb up to get an even better view of the surrounding area.
 
The food is plentiful and delicious – incorporating many local fruits, vegetables, and flavorings, but also offering more international standard fare. The kitchen is able to accommodate special request with advance notice. Breakfast and Lunch are served buffet-style and dinner is a plated meal with two choices – typically one meat option and one fish or vegetarian choice.
 
Included, too, will be almost all of your activities  (the parrot clay lick is an added cost because there is an entrance fee and this particular activity is very weather dependent). Each day, including the day you arrive, you will have the opportunity to go on light hikes, nature walks, and canoe rides at various points throughout the day.

 

Morning excursions start early to take advantage of the cooler temperatures and because this is a peak time for wildlife activity. You’ll make it back for a mid-morning snack or lunch and have time to relax before your afternoon excursion – which may be hiking, canoe rides, or visiting one of the canopy bird-viewing spots.  Returning for dinner, some evenings end with a night walk or paddle to try to catch some of the more elusive nocturnal species.

 

For your explorations, you will be in groups of no more than 6 visitors paired with 2 guides. For the duration of your stay you will spend your time with this little group. If you have your own group or prefer to have a private experience, this can also be arranged. One of your guides will be a bilingual naturalist, many of whom have trained in ecotourism and spent many years in the region. Your other guide will be a “Native Guide,” most of whom are local residents who grew up in and around the Yasuni National Park. Together these guides will help to reveal hidden creatures in the forest and explain a number of biological, cultural, and historical facts to help you learn about this rich and diverse place.

 

Sacha Lodge is the perfect escape for anyone wanting to experience jungle wildlife in a comfortable atmosphere. It is peaceful, welcoming, and the guides not only bring excitement to the experience of exploring the jungle, but a deep love for what they do and for preserving the Amazon for future generations of residents and visitors.   

After spending some time in the Amazon, but before heading to the cloudforest, I had a full day to spend in Quito. My only regret from my whole adventure is that I didn’t get to spend more time in this incredible city.

Situated at over 9,000 feet, Quito is among the highest capital cities in the world. The urban spread is also nestled against volcanoes, including Pichincha – an active volcano which serves as the western border of the city.

The morning started with a ride out of town, as we headed to the Pululahua Volcano Reserve. The reserve is a dormant volcano crater that has filled in and is now about 5 km wide, and over 300 meters deep.  Because of the crater has its own unique ecosystem, the area is protected but does have some resident farmers who were grandfathered in to the protected status. You can take a 45 minute hike down into the crater, but I opted to enjoy the views from an observation platform up top.

From here, we headed back southward towards town but stopped at the center of the world on the way. Mitad del Mundo marks the equatorial line. The cute, kitchy museum is a fun stop for families – kids and adults alike can play some fun games that illustrate the special forces particular to where the north and south hemispheres meet. Don’t forget to check out the live guinea pigs, as well.

Continuing on, we ended up in the Old City of Quito. This was by far my favorite par of the tour. The colonial architecture, plazas full of Quitanios enjoying their afternoon, and the local shops were so much fun to explore – and my guide Gabriel did a fantastic job of explaining the historical or cultural significance of each of our stops along the way.

The day ended at the far end of the Old City, demarcated by El Panecillo, a hilltop crowned by the Virgin of Quito. The perfect place to take in views of my new favorite city, and a fitting place to end my tour.

Getting to Mashpi does not require nearly as many forms of transportation as it does getting to the Amazon, but it is certainly no less of a journey. Head north of Quito in a comfortable van, taking in the changing scenery. Try to avoid making the trip on a Friday evening, when the Quitanios are also getting out of the city to enjoy their weekend. Along the way, you’ll see stall after stall of flower vendors - Ecuador is one of the top exporters of roses, after all. Slowly the towns begin to thin and crop up less and less frequently, and in smaller and smaller sizes. You will take the pan-American highway for some of the journey, winding through the rolling hills on smooth pavement.

Eventually, though, you will turn off the main route and head off the beaten path - literally and figuratively - en route to the Mashpi Reserve, a private and secluded 3,000 acre property in the cloud forest. An hour and a half of bumping along dirt roads leads you to a gate straight out of Jurassic Park. Stop to stretch and use the facilitiies because there are stil a few miles of hard scrabble dirt road to go. 

The feeling of arriving at the Mashpi lodge is somewhat miraculous. You will pull up to an unassuming covered patio area that leads into the open floor-plan lodge. You may be indoors, but everywhere you look you can see the forest. Two-story windows in the dining room create a light, airy atmosphere and reinforce the feeling of being integrated into surrounding environment. 

Throughout your stay, that feeling will not abate. From the floor-to-ceiling windows in every suite, to the dragonfly canopy ride that takes you sailing across the treetops, everything about Mashpi is intended to crelate a deep engagement with the cloud forest and its creatures while maintaining the highest level of service and luxury.

Unlike most of the people who visit this archipelago, the Galapagos was never on my bucket list. It wasn’t even really on my radar at all as a potential travel destination until I started working at Adventure Life. 

I learned a lot about the islands as quickly as I could to keep pace with the travelers who called in. I grilled my colleagues, memorized maps, and kept track of a “wildlife calendar” to know which species were most active at what times of year.

None of this prepared me for the reality of being in the Galapagos, which was so much more! Picture a tropical paradise, positively crawling with the most unusual creatures in such numbers that at times it’s hard to avoid them. 

Getting off the plane from Quito, the first thing that struck me was the bright and hot sun - there is no mistaking that you are very near the equator - with nothing to speak of for shade. The lack of tree and the craggy black rocks dotting the white sand beach were subtle reminders throughout my stay that this was unlike anyplace else on earth. A scan of the horizon revealed one oddly-shaped mound after another, rising form the sea to varying heights. 

Like many visitors here, I made my way with my travel group from the airport in Baltra, across the island and it’s military base remnants, to the Ithacaba channel, and off on my first adventure. 

We started with a snorkel around Daphne Island, and what a way to begin! Having come with no expectations of wildlife (since no one can ever guarantee these encounters, even in a place so rich as the Galapagos) - I was utterly flabbergasted to encounter blue footed boobies, Nazca boobies, frigate birds, and petrels before we even got off our panga boat. Haven spent over a year talking about these creatures on a daily basis, it was like seeing a celebrity in real life. Underwater the wildlife was just as overwhelming - on the first try I encountered a sea turtle, a sea lion, two species of sharks, dozens of reef fish including a very cool puffer, octopus, and an eagle ray. Don’t even get me started on the pod of dolphins I got to swim with later that same day!

The rest of my stay proved to be just as rich with wildlife encounters - and I didn’t even stray far from Santa Cruz Island. Even in Puerto Ayora, the largest human population in the islands, you may find any number of animals lounging by the water. 

Perhaps the greatest pleasure of my stay, though, was the experience of the truly singular and truly special Galapagos Safari Camp. 

Located in the highlands of Santa Cruz and modeled after safari camps in Botswana, this property is the epitome of luxury, without sacrificing any aspect of the natural wonder that is the Galapagos. The main lodge can host dinner inside or outside, and with a beautiful water and stone walkway, combined with large glass windows, you never really feel indoors.

Each raised tent has screen vents to let in fresh air and keep out the bugs, as well as sliding glass doors which open onto your sea-facing porch. Ensuite facilities replete with hot-water showers are an unexpected amenity when you think of camping, but this is not your average camp experience by any means. Local Galapagenios coffee ground, a french press, and electric kettle helped to make an indulgent ritual of coffee on the porch each morning. 

Comfort is one thing, but the personal touches and attention to detail put my experience here above and beyond anything I could have imagined. From thoughtful postcards laid on a pillow in the evening, bikes left at the tent door to inspire exploration, to Galapagos-specific trivia cards at the breakfast table - the staff here has thought of everything and will go to any length to ensure you have an unforgettable experience - not just of this far away place, but also of their little nook among the natural wonder that is the Galapagos. 
 

Throughout the highlands of Ecuador – both north to Otavalo and Ibarra, and to the south along the Avenue of the Volcanoes to Cotopaxi – you will find haciendas. Many of these properties are restored historical family homes and ranches.  Each hacienda has its own unique flavor and atmosphere, with local influences and echoes of the family that once lived there.
 

Hacienda Zuleta, located about an hour and half north of Quito, was built in the 1600’s and once belonged to the family of a former president of Ecuador. Now a hotel and working farm (and cheese producer!), the property has not lost any of its warmth as a residence and really feels like entering into your long-lost Ecuadorian grandmother’s home.

 

Family heirlooms, photos, and paintings adorn the halls, which are also lined with bright pink and red geraniums. Throughout the hacienda, there are a number of “living rooms,” perfect for gathering before dinner over a cheese plate and discussing your day. Or for borrowing a book and getting cozy near the always-stoked fireplaces.
 

While there is more than enough to keep visitors occupied inside Zuleta’s buildings, you will certainly be rewarded by venturing outside. Upon arrival, you will have a representative from the hacienda assigned to be your activity and overall experience guide – a little like a personal concierge to help make your stay exactly what you want. They will explain the variety of activity options – from showing you the best hiking trails, horseback riding, mountain biking, cooking classes, touring the farm operation, visiting the condor rescue center, or even an embroidery lesson!

Once you’ve decided how you want to spend your time, they will help make the arrangements with you. But, honestly, this is the perfect place to unwind from a jam-packed trip, so opting to just relax and explore at your leisure won’t mean sacrificing any experience.

What I loved most about visiting Zuleta and about the hacienda experience was getting a chance to see an entirely different side of Ecuador. Up to this point, so much of my time was focused on the wildlife of the Amazon and Galapagos, but here I got to learn more about the history and culture of the country. My last stop in Ecuador was fun, edifying, and restorative!