Snow Hill Safari

This is my second trip within the last 12 months to Antarctica. Last December when I first traveled to Antarctica, I never dreamed there would be a second. The trip starts the same, same flight, same departure in Ushuaia, same Drake Passage, but I am more excited than the first time. This time I am going two months earlier when everything will be white and icey and most importantly, I will see the Emperor Penguins at Snow Hill Rookery.

My flights were uneventful. I listened to my IPOD and watched the Antarctica section of the Earth series on my IPOD and tried to sleep. Generally, I sleep well during long flights. It's different this time. I cannot think of anything except getting on Kapitan Khlebnikov to begin the voyage to Snow Hill. I can't believe I'm going on this trip Last year during my first trip to Antarctica on the Orlova, I met a Dutch passenger, Raldi. This will be his fourth trip to the white contintent. He planned to go to Snow Hill at least 1.5 years in advance. During the year via email, he convinced me not to wait and also register for the trip. So here we are again in Ushuaia. After my arrival to Ushuaia, we met at a popular restaurant and talked about the next fews days.

We shopped for last minute items and sent out last emails to friends. During the afternoon we took a four hour boat ride around the Beagle Channel to view sea lions and the famous lighthouse. It was a beautiful sunny day in Ushuaia.

Raldi and I spent the day waiting and waiting to get on the ship. All we think of is getting on the KK and getting on our way. The thought of crossing the Drake passage was as exciting as it was the first time. Finally, we walk down the dock like last year..only this time we are getting on the Kapitan Khlebnikov, a polar class icebreaker. It looked so small from the street but oh how large it becomes the closer you get to it!

57 28 S / 63 03 W The passage was smooth. There were lectures about the Emperor Penguins we would soon see and other Antarctica birds. The meals were great and there was a movie after dinner. My day was mostly spent chatting and making new friends.

64 22 S/57 20 W Crossing the Drake and the Antarctica Sound was snooth. We saw our first icebergs during late afternoon. I waited so long to see those tabular icebergs! We stayed overnight at drift position in the sea. We were given our lecture about boarding the helicopters and spending time with the penguins. I certainly didn't sleep that night--dreaming of penguins

Realizing that I am really here at Snow Hill and about to take off in Russian helicopters over Antartica, is just too surreal... I couldn't sleep last night. The ride was exhilerating. Everyone ( the eight of us) in the helicopter were speechless. We were all so happy and in awe, that we just couldn't speak. We just looked out the windows in amazement at that the wide vast whiteness and the tabular icebergs beneath us. The ride was about 10 minutes and then we landed at base camp. The Quark leaders set up two tents, provided food and emergency equipment for two days in the event a storm arised preventing us from returning to the ship. They even set up a temporary bathroom at the camp. They did this everyday for us before our arrival to base camp. The Quark leaders made us feel assured that they were prepared for anything. There was no need to worry about our safety as they did that everyday for us. The walk to the rookery was about 1.2 mile. The sun was shining on the icebergs around us. The blue icebergs frozen in the sea ice were incredible. Then, the first emperor penguin appeared, then another and another. They appeared in their tuxedos and acted like a welcoming commitee. We walked among penguins and icebergs all the way to the rookery. Once at the rookery, we watched and photographed the majestic birds and their chicks for the next five hours. The Emperors were everywhere. Some of the birds were curious and approached us while others just continued on doing their penguin business.

64 31 S 57 27 W Another day at the Rookery. It was a beautiful sunny day. The expedition leaders said that we were so privileged to have such wonderful weather.The skies were blue and the snow and ice so white. I didn't know there were so many shades of blue and white. And why does the snow look so good in Antarctica?

Today about 25 of us trekked 8 miles from the Breaker to the rookery. It was an awesome walk among the icebergs and ice caves. We saw 100s of penguins walking to and from the Sea. The ones going toward the sea for fish were skinny. To the contray the penguins returning from the sea had extended bellies and seemed to waddled instead of walk. Then the rest of the day was spent at the rookery. The Emperors were there as always. They never seem to tire of posing for us.. At night, we shared our photos and went to bed early,

A little colder today with a little wind. Another exhilirating flight to base camp. Once there, we had a walk to the ice cave for a look inside. It was the deepest blue I've ever seen.. Then we hiked closer to the Arch made of Ice. It was incredible. How can nature make such beautiful sculptures from ice, I wonder. During the afternoon for those were not at the rookery, there was another ice walk around the ship. There was always a lot to see...penguins wondering around the ship..and seals sunning themselves.

Another beautiful sunny day, but cold and a little windy. We walked along the ice north from the ship. We set up our photography gear to take pictures of penguins jumping in and out of the icey sea. We waited and waited. The few birds we thought would go into the water never did..and then other penguins were jumping out of the water all round us but never in the direction where our cameras were pointed.. the penguins were so funny. I think they were playing games with us... They apparently jump our of the sea at three at a time. I saw three jump out about five feet directly in front of me. My camera wasn't ready...but that image is imprinted in my mind forever. My hands were freezing...so I gave up, the penguins won... I walked back to the ship and took closeups of the seals and penguins laying on the path back to the ship. The rest of the day was incredible The day the breaker left the rookery was sad but perhaps the most incredible. We were given helicopter rides from the ship as the breaker powered through the solid sea ice. From the helicopter, we had a bird’s eye view of not only the vast icy environment but of the Kapitan Khlebnikov breaking through ice at full speed ahead. Previously, an expedition leader said “that on a clear day one can see a distance of 60 miles in Antarctica.” On that day he was correct. The view from the helicopter was an uninterrupted white endless plane. It was magnificent. After the ride the ship headed onward to Devil's Island

Two great outings to see Adelies and gentoo penguins and two great zodiac rides through the blue icebergs! It was cold and snowing today..real Antarctica..

Our last proposed outings was canceled due to a big storm in the Drake . The captain wanted to leave 18 hours early to allow for more time to get through the storm...Everyone is concerned and taking sea sickness medicine. I was excited to finally experience the real Drake as all my other crossings have been smooth I'm going it alone with no medicine! Everyone thought I was crazy!

The last day on the Drake. Lots of information today about departing the ships and return flights home. The last dinner was wonderful with a Captain's farewell party in the bar..Everyone was happy and talking about their worldly adventures I hope the staff and leaders know what a wonderful experience they gave us

Some passengers tried to attend seminars regarding biology and explorers of Antarctica.others slept or edited photgraphers. I packed, chatted with passengers and watched and felt the ship roll beneath my feet. I love the sway of the ship. Finally, we were allowed to return to the bridge. The view of the Drake spashing over the bow was incredible.

Arrival in Ushauia as planned at 8:00am. We enjoyed breakfast onboard but this time it was sad. Some were happy to have completed the expedition.... I was happy but also sad wanting more of Antarctica.. Today is my Birthday!