Mary's Mother-Daughter Greenland and Arctic tour!

Today we arrived in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland and the start of our mother-daughter Arctic cruise. At nearly 70 degrees, we quickly stripped out of our layers and enjoyed the surprisingly warm temperatures and bright sunshine. The coastline is beautiful with colorful buildings dotting the hillside. We transferred to the port and boarded zodiacs to our ship, the Sea Adventurer. Enroute, one of the zodiacs was stranded on a muddy sandbar that extended into the fjord. Our zodiac motored nearby to assist. In the process, we also got stuck. First we tried to paddle our way out. Then I got into the chilling sea water to try and push us free. The zodiac lurched, but was too heavy to move off the sand bar. As the tide flows out, our zodiac became increasingly high centered on the sandbar beneath us. By now, we could see pockets of mud below us as our zodiac floated on only a few inches of water.

A third zodiac came by to assist, careful to stay at least 50 meters away to avoid also getting stuck. There's no time to get our boots, already delivered safely to our cabins onboard, so we all rolled up our pant legs and walked two by two from the stranded zodiac to the one motoring in open water.

Once we are finally on board the lovely Arctic cruise ship, Sea Adventurer, the first course of business is a lifeboat drill. The other passengers jokingly tell us that we don't need to participate. We've already practiced abandoning ship once for the day! Read more of Mary's mother-daughter Arctic adventure. Click here!

Today during our Arctic adventure, we explore a glacier in the Sondrestrom Fjord via zodiac. The glacier is an impressive wall of ice. Kittiwakes fly around the nearby bird cliffs and the ice reflects brilliant blues and crystal clear prisms.

This afternoon we stop for an unscheduled hike to a lake. A waterfall cascades beside our path as the 3 school age kids on our Arctic cruise bound up the hillside enroute to the lake with one of the fast walking guides. As moms, we struggle to keep up, rounding the top of the hillside just as I hear our guide's radio buzz saying that one of the kids has already jumped in, my daughter Hailey. She’s soon joined by one of the boys and our adventurous guide, John, who plunges in with the kids.

Fortunately, I have brought dry clothes for Hailey and the summer day is perfect- in the 70s with bright sunshine and almost no wind. What a beautiful day in the Arctic! Tonight we attend the Captain’s dinner. As usual, the food onboard is spectacular. I order the rack of lamb with a traditional Greenland soup, exquisite red wine, and strawberry shortcake for dessert. Sorry there's no pictures. I was too busy eating!! Read more of Mary's mother-daughter Arctic adventure. Click here!

This morning we stop in Sisimiut, a picturesque village of colorful homes scattered on the hillside over the town. We walk around the town and visit the sled dogs that are housed just outside the town. I stop by the post office and spend a small fortune ($15) for two postcards and stamps.

This afternoon we visit a mostly abandoned fishing station, a scenic island with bright red church and crumbling outer buildings. Locals rent space for their own weekend fishing adventures.

The ship staff buy several kilos of trout from the locals for tomorrow night’s dinner. We see a group of local kids playing who are surprised to see a boatload of travelers exploring their island playground. Our onboard painters bring their acrylics and relax on the hillside, capturing the pastels of this lovely island as the kids look on.

Read more of Mary's mother-daughter Arctic adventure. Click here!

I'm talking with our Arctic cruise expedition leader at the bridge, curious about our progress across the Davis Strait from Greenland to Canada. Suddenly one of my fellow passengers shouts "whale, 1 o'clock". I push open the door and shout for the kids. A second whale breaches at 2 o'clock, followed by several others. Within moments an announcement is made on the ship speakers and our onboard biologist comes out to inform us that we are surrounded by Northern Bottlenose whales. Since they tend to spend up to an hour feeding near the ocean floor, Northern Bottlenose whales can be difficult to spot at the surface. Few of our expedition staff have ever seen them. A few minutes later, she announces that there is a second pod, as well, these are Long-Finned Pilot whales.

The site is breathtaking. Two northern bottlenose come right up to the ship directly in front of me. I can see their full bodies silhouetted a few feet beneath the green water.

I watch as they dive under the ship. Soon other whales follow suit. I watch a half dozen approach only a few meters from the ship and give a tremendous show, water spouting from their blowholes. Tears are streaming down my face. I’ve never had such an awe inspiring wildlife encounter. Read more of Mary's mother-daughter Arctic adventure. Click here!

Our Arctic cruise itinerary has been flexible, adjusting due to rapidly changing ice conditions. We end up with a couple of extra days at sea as we navigate the ice filled waters of the Davis Strait. Our onboard staff seem to have a limitless host of activities to keep us entertained. For Canada Day, they host an onboard marathon, complete with 26 laps around the ship.

We learn print making from Andrew Qappik, designer of the Nunavut flag and coat of arms. In the evening, we have a Disco party and a chocolate buffet (does it get any better?).

A few days later we celebrate the 4th of July with equal style including a sing along and shipboard parade.

Then, of course, there is the quintessential "polar plunge". I was highly tempted to skip this crazy form of "entertainment", but I knew I'd regret it later. The water is chilling. The staff there to assist me say they didn't even see me hit the water as I bounded out so quickly.

Of course, anytime the onboard activities don't appeal, I just head outside. The views never get dull!

Read more of Mary's mother-daughter Arctic adventure. Click here!