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Wild Greenland and Canada: Earth, Iron, and Ice

MS Ocean Endeavour
MS Ocean Endeavour
I didn't know what I'd be getting into-- just my dad and me, on a ship together with 180 strangers for 15 days. The itinerary looked like a real adventure: hopping on a charter flight from Toronto to Kangerlussuaq, Greenland, and from there exploring majestic fjords, glaciers, and tundra along some of the most remote coastlines in the world. When I asked my dad to join me on this amazing sailing of the Ocean Endeavour, he had a lot of questions, most importantly: would he have enough socks?
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Cruising Greenland
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Approaching Kangaamiut, Greenland
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Father and daughter on Kangaamiut dock
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Landing in Kangerlussuaq, Greenland
Greenland, Mars?
After a long day of travel from Missoula, we joined the expedition team for a pre-cruise briefing and overnight stay in Toronto. This was our first taste of what living on the Ocean Endeavour would be like, with a generous overview of the itinerary and onboard procedures. I could immediately sense my dad start to relax—this is not a man fond …
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View of Ocean Endeavour from the zodiac
Bergy Bits
The next morning, we awoke to the voice of our expedition leader Jason over the ship’s intercom, a calming voice we would grow very accustomed to in our travels. A tri-tone beep would always precede: “Good morning, ladies and gentlemen…good morning.” A brief overview of the day’s first activity was announced, …
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Greenland national dress, Greenland National Museum
Postcards
Visiting Nuuk, Greenland’s capital, was made all the more engaging with our bright and spunky guide Vivi, who led our group on a walking tour of the city’s waterfront. Vivi, a resident of Nuuk who had also cruised with us on the Ocean Endeavour prior to our landing in her home city, had a great sense of storytelling and lent a personal …
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Kangiqsualujjuaq home, Canada
Nunavik
It was a rough crossing over the Davis Strait toward Canada, and Dad and I spent the first afternoon at sea confined to our cabin. Nothing really helped that first night—not even the combination of wristbands and Dramamine—except simply lying horizontal. I hated to miss some of the lectures happening during the sea crossing, but thanks …
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Fjord cruising, Torngat Mountains National Park
Ancient Remains
The Torngat Mountains greeted us upon the Ocean Endeavour’s arrival to the northern Labrador coast. Living close to the Rockies, I feel at home amongst mountains, so I was excited to see these giants as we cruised into sprawling fjords carved by glacial movement over the ages. I thought of my graduate student friends at home studying geology …
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Ramah Bay
Turbulence
After some onboard shenanigans, including a goofy celebration of the 150th year of the Canadian Confederation and a polar plunge in Ramah Bay, we left Torngat National Park and steamed toward our next landing. I was looking forward to visiting the mission site we had learned so much about in the days prior; shut down by the government in 1959, the …
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Home in Nain
Nain
After a rough night for the ship’s crew with high winds and waves, we awoke on the morning of our landing ready to explore the administrative capital of the Nunatsiavut government. Our expedition leader was especially excited, as Nain was home for Jason and his family. A group of Nain’s elders and community leaders joined us onboard …
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Abandoned fishing shacks
Indian Harbour
As we headed farther south toward Newfoundland, we made an impromptu landing at Indian Harbour. Special to resource staff member Dave Paddon, the stop gave us a chance to see the remaining foundation of a cottage hospital and several abandoned seasonal fishing sites. We soon learned that Dave’s grandfather ran the hospital (established by …
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The Wonderstrands, Canada
Seafarers
The next morning we landed on the most recently-estimated location of the Wonderstrands, a series of beaches described in Viking sagas relating the tales of Erik the Red. I welcomed the sight and smell of trees, which hadn’t been a part of our journey in the northern reaches of tundra-coated Labrador. We walked the length of the beach, …
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