It’s Saturday and it seems everyone visits Antigua on the weekend. The streets teem with cars and motorbikes. Weekenders from Guatemala City mix with foreign tourists while local hawkers peddle their wares. Navigating the uneven sidewalks and cobblestone streets take skill but paying too much attention to one’s feet can result in a head injury from the wrought iron balconies that extend at a perilously low angle for gringos – or what my husband refers to as “the revenge of the Maya”.
Our guide takes us to numerous churches, convents, monasteries and Spanish colonial government buildings all in various stages of ruin or repair. The ruined ones are the most impressive with mist-shrouded volcanoes in the background and colorful hawkers in the foreground. As always, our guide walks a fine line on political correctness. He speaks of the Spanish conquest in terms of a melding of the best of the Old World with that of the New. “We gave them tomatoes, chocolate, corn...” The only spark was ignited at San Francisco Church when he mentioned that the notorious conquistador, Alvorado, was buried there, and my husband remarked, “Why would they let him in here?” Our guide gleefully whispered that long ago, according to popular rumor, his body was exhumed and burned.
While Antigua is well worth the visit, the highlights of our trip were experienced in the countryside – at the weekly Chichicastenago market followed by a few days near Santiago Atitlan where we went on a horseback ride up through coffee plantations to an impressive view of Lake Atitlan. Our hosts were two American expats who came to Guatemala over 25 years ago and eked out a life in the midst of civil war. Their ranch is made from rock with a safe house on the lower floor built to withstand mortars. Now, that the troubles have ended, they make a living leading horseback and hiking trips.
If one word could describe Guatemala, it would be color. It’s not just the flowers and rolling hills and violet blue lakes. It’s also the amazing array of textiles and masks in the local markets. Color is everywhere, even in the Mayan cemeteries. Each region has its own textile designs and color palette. Color, culture, and stunning natural beauty all come together in Guatemala.
The trip was not only memorable for the amount of animals we saw but also for the people and accommodations at the two camps where we stayed. Our first guide, BK, was a wealth of information about the animals, landscape and down to the plants and what they were used for. Everyday out was a learning experience with him. All the people at the camps were gracious and the food was excellent.
Our second camp in the Okavanga was just as good as the first as far as the staff, accommodations, food and animals. After our experience at the first camp we amazed that the high quality remained the same. Our guide, G, made sure we were able to enjoy every experience including a rush through the bush to witness a cheetah and an ensuing hunt that he heard over his radio.
In both camps there were enough guides out that if they saw something the other guides were informed which helped in seeing as much as possible. It was also nice that the concessions were large enough that we did not have vehicles following each other throughout the day.
Normally there is always something in a trip of this length that we think could be improved upon but this is the rare case where we cannot think of anything. From the time we left the States to when we returned it was one of the most hassle free vacations we took.
Perhaps emphasizing the use of the laundry facilities at the camps would be useful because of the luggage restrictions would be the only thing I can think of as an improvement to future clients.
Kenneth Dropek
2 days ago
Mary was so pleasant and professional. She made sure all of our questions were answered.