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Patagonia Indomita

The Towers
The Towers
Solo travel is at its best in Patagonia - there as so many types of travelers from all over the world that you fit right in with the team. The wildlife of Patagonia came out at times to welcome us throughout my stay at Ecocamp. We had a beautiful day hiking to the towers but don't always count on it - Patagonia weather is constantly changing and keeps on you on your toes!
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View from my hotel room in Santiago
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Restaurant Como Agua Para Chocolate
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Cerro Santa Lucia
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View from my hotel room in Santiago
Arrived in Santiago
Santiago and I started off on the wrong foot. I spent one hour and a half at the airport. There was a line to get a visa, another line to get through passport control, and the 3rd one - customs. I ended up going through the passport line twice, because I failed to get the visa first. The customs officers took my beef jerky and trail mix, because I …
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Restaurant Como Agua Para Chocolate
Punta Arenas
The next morning I flew to Punta Arenas. I could not wait to see those ropes along the sidewalks I read about, and to experience the famous Patagonian winds and rain. No such luck. It was 60F, sunny and calm. The street that led into town from the airport had what I thought was an unusually high number of monuments of all kinds, including …
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Cerro Santa Lucia
On the way to EcoCamp
On Monday morning I noticed a little board in the reception area with the schedule of local museums. Feeling bad about having wasted some of my day yesterday aimlessly roaming the streets, I decided to make up for it in whatever little time I had left. Earlier I got a message from Cascada that I would be picked up from the hotel about 11:30 …
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View from Cerro Santa Lucia
Los Cuernos and Lago Nordeskjold
The first day was planned as an easy one, and we did not leave the camp until 10 am. We enjoyed a good breakfast and took time packing our lunches, picking and choosing from the variety of foods that was spread on a table for us. Not that I ever felt rushed by our guides, even on the days when we had to stick to a schedule. The porters left ahead …
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Santiago
Valle Frances
We had an early breakfast. I got to try mate and liked it right away: it was slightly bitter, and tasted a little bit of green tea and wood smoke.
This was the longest day of all. We left Refugio Los Cuernos at 9am, and got to Refugio Paine Grande at 8pm.
The feast of the senses continued. More avalanches, waterfalls, flowers, and mountain …
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Punta Arenas
Lago and Glacier Grey
It started raining at night, and continued into the morning. We left the refugio at 9am under a steady rain. Fortunately, the rain stopped forty minutes later, and it was just overcast for the rest of the day, with the sun showing up occasionally.
We got the preview of Grey the lake and Grey the glacier while hiking to the northern end of the …
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Otway Penguin colony
Torres del Paine
We knew this would be a strenuous day. We were to leave the camp at 8:30 am and return around 6 pm.
Three of my teammates decided instead to treat themselves to the life of luxury and use services of the hotel neighboring with EcoCamp. That involved a horseback ride, massage and drinks in the bar.
The rest of us set off on a hike to the base of …
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Otway Penguin colony
The Eastern Lakes
I woke up to a temperature of 45°F inside my dome. I warmed myself up by chasing giant hares on the outskirts of the camp, trying to get close enough to them to take a picture. During the day the temperature rose up to 60°F, which seemed to be the daily average of my stay in Patagonia.
This was the day of relaxation. We rode in the …
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Lago Nordeskjold
Leaving Patagonia
We left EcoCamp in the van, accompanied by our guides. We stopped for lunch at La Pampa in Puerto Natales. I hate to say it, but I liked the lamb I had there better than the one on the previous night at EcoCamp. We also had time for some souvenir shopping at one of the town's little shops: Ñandú. I had a hard time leaving the place - …
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